72 K30 Build

[7dee2]

Our donor truck did come with the small block style HB pump reservoir but would have put the fill right into the bottom or just to the right (inboard) of the alternator with our alternator bracket setup. The later big block remote reservoir fill location also goes straight up into alternator territory so regardless even if we have to replace the pump later the old style big block reservoir is what we have and I wanted for this project.

I borrowed this pic posted from forum member Tx Firefighter to give a visual of how sharp the angle needs to be to accommodate this fill set up. I really like the fill on the fender of these old trucks, its cool!

While on this topic our thoughts are still to restore the factory a/c as well as running all the original 72 C30 402 accessory stuff, exhaust manifolds, etc. that we have. Engine (454 or 496?) should look a lot like a stock L72 or LS6 out of a Chevelle or Corvette but with all the truck bracketry when done. The 2nd pic is from an earlier project, 66 Impala SS w/air that’s close to what I’ve got in mind again for this truck. Dressed like a 427 it’s actually a solid lifter 454 LS6 crate engine we had acquired in another project car.

[7dee2]

Here's how the brake pedal mod turned out, sorry for the bad pic but by the time I checked we’d removed the cab again.

[7dee2]

Did a quick rear brake inspection to get the rest of the brake cable length measurement and to see what we have going on in there. Both drums did come right off without having to back off the shoes, sweet! Not really surprised that we have more brake material on the right side versus the left. Pretty sure the right parking brake was not engaging and if this side was not adjusted as tight we would see this wear difference (2 – 3 32nds). We still need to measure the drum material when we get back into this axle but there was no lip so I’m hopeful we can run them again. Inner seal area is showing a little wear (left was worse and may require a speedi-sleeve) but all looked pretty good.

[JJorgensen52]

That's the 14FF out of the K30 donor truck, right?

[RedRoad]

Tank looks great! Where did it and the straps come from?

[7dee2]

Hey RedRoad thanks they came from RockAuto, here’s the manufacturer and part#s.

DORMAN 576312 {GM#14050684} Steel Fuel Tank (31 Gallon, large fill neck & external pump)
SPECTRA PREMIUM ST11 Set (for 31 Gallon Tank)

So this tank gets close side to side and front to back as mounted but it clears, I’m thinking we’ll probably get some kind of stick on gas tank insulator for the areas that will touch (top of tank). The original rear lower c-channel braces mounted up under the upper frame lip will space the tank down perfectly. Had a little left over angle iron for the front strap mount and we will use the rear crossmember for the back strap mount.

[RedRoad]

Thanks! Any reason you didnt go with the 40 gal burb tank?

[7dee2]

My initial thoughts were to run the 40 gallon tank. But when we got into it I was concerned it would end up too close to the differential (we are 1.5” further back). It also looked like we’d have to set the rear crossmember even further back in the frame than this tank. It could have fit but this one gives us more room for the exhaust, a little trim room (frame rail ends) for the bed I don’t have yet and is still a big a** tank.

Here’s how this has turned out so far. Still need to flip the frame to finish mounting a few things like the spring hanger L-brackets, rear bump stops and rear crossmember (lower) but the tank is done for now.

And if your wondering is that angle strong enough, I did? A gallon of gas should weigh between 5.8 to 6.5 lbs. depending on its temp etc. so 31 x 6.5 = 201.5 lbs . Our test to simulate real world conditions consisted of a fat 250 pounder jumping up and down on it.

The results are in the pics below, never budged good to go!

[7dee2]

We started off last week by drilling out the front crossmember and steering box brace to 7/16”. Also installed the front bump stops (no pic) but still need to weld up some holes to mount the donor brake line brackets.

And that leads to surprise, surprise more holes to fill. We won’t be doing them all (skipping frame alignment holes, etc.) but if it’s near a new drilled hole or very large (needing a plug) we’ll be filling it.

[DWilbur]

It's a pain in the A** to weld up them hole. I must have welded in about 40+ holes in my frame and had to buy a new roll of wire for my welder and a bottle fo argon C02.

[7dee2]

Yep ditto on the PITA! Almost outta wire and shielding gas, double ditto!


We did some minor bracket repair that needed doing. A little crack and a worn area on the k-member also welded a shim to the steering box brace.

Started back on the frame and CRAPO our welder (Eastwood 175) biffed it! Cooked the circuit board and a replacement cannot be had until the end of year at the soonest. Oh and of course it’s 3 months out of warranty.

So guess who’s getting a new welder and it ain't coming from Eastwood!

[First c10]

Hey Brett looking good! I have a question about your gas tank. I see that the tank is hanging low. Did you do that so the fill neck would not be to high so not to hit the bed? I raised my tank up but will have to cut the fill neck down to fit under the bed floor.
Keep it up my friend, as I don't have time to work on mine with coaching football and all. but I do get time at work to check out your build and others!!!

[DWilbur]

I hope I did not bring you bad luck with your welder breaking down. that sucks. what are you going to get.

[ryanroo]

sucks that the welder died, but at least its time for an upgrade! what machines are you looking at?

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by First c10

Hey Brett looking good! I have a question about your gas tank. I see that the tank is hanging low. Did you do that so the fill neck would not be to high so not to hit the bed? I raised my tank up but will have to cut the fill neck down to fit under the bed floor.
Keep it up my friend, as I don't have time to work on mine with coaching football and all. but I do get time at work to check out your build and others!!!

Thanks First c10, I can hardly wait to see some more progress on the Hulkster!

Thought it would be wise to install the tank low so installing a new flatbed would not require a lot if any mods as I’ll probably drive it to the vendor and have the bed installed there (todays plan uno). This setup could be raised really easily by replacing the upper cross braces with some bar stock or angle and bolting them on top of the frame rails. Also we could spin the tank 180 and have the fill on the left losing the clearance notch at the back? Didn’t want any tank mods as we have the pull it off the shelf and install the part mentality going on so last thought is that if it’s really low once done we can still add a skid plate from a donor Blazer or Burban which is still on the table.

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I hope I did not bring you bad luck with your welder breaking down. that sucks. what are you going to get.

No it died before your comments but you were spot on!

Originally Posted by ryanroo

sucks that the welder died, but at least its time for an upgrade! what machines are you looking at?

Wanted a Miller 212 (sticker shock ) but picked up a Lincoln 180 last week so a little bit of an upgrade at least this one can be fixed! Nice surprise is the old mig and aluminum gun look to fit the new welder.


While we figured out the welder situation got onto installing a few more things. Can't believe this HF 1/2" drill is still going strong bought it to punch holes in wood studs years ago when we wired the house and garage. Was sure this frame project would kill it but there it is!

[DWilbur]

I got my dads mig welder after he passed in 1998. he bought it in 1981 Miller 200. I have had to have it serviced several time over the years. that's good to hear about the HF drill is still going strong. I bought a 4" HF grinder when I started my frame off and it died 4 week later. my Millwakee grinder is about 10 year old and still going strong.

[7dee2]

Amazing your HF grinder made it that far, last time we tried one about 3 years ago it lasted about an hour!

Decided it’s time to remove the rest of the factory rivets that are holding the rails together. From our earlier mockup we found this mid crossmember (carrier bearing mount) could be a problem for a one piece (very loooong) rear drive line and would have to be relocated, flipped over, removed or perhaps partially replaced with the lower dropped part (w/o the taller side brackets) of a later version we happen to have left over from our 72 RV 157” chassis.

[7dee2]

Here is some more info, we are still planning for a GVOD their customer service dept. said they advise the customer to shorten the driveline by 14”. We won’t know for sure until we drop the cash get it here, bolt it up and see what’s what. Plan is to deal with this during the final assembly stage. Here is a pic I borrowed of an installed unit in a 67-72 my guess is a K20.

[7dee2]

Before we separate the frame rails I thought I would take a pic of the front all welded/plugged up and with the rear of the frame still to go, holy moly! Sorry my camera was having a hard time focusing with the flash off. I can report our new little Lincoln welder is doing a great job. Making some 1” plugs..

[7dee2]

I’ve wanted to add some 3/16” bar stock where the trans/tc mounts. Thinking this will help to distribute some weight a little along the lower frame flange when it’s all back together. Frame rails are now separated should make some of our work easier.

[72MARIO]

Awesome build. This buld thread is going to make my swap much easier Thanks !!!!

I am going to be doing the exact same swap. I have a 1968 longhorn frame and a 1981ish 1 ton militay frame to use as a doner. I am planning on using a 4L80 for overdrive because the gearvendors in my suburban has given me to many issues. Also parts availablity and cost is difficult to outrageous with the gearvendors in Canada.

[7dee2]

Thanks 72Mario that's part of the reason I decided to post it all, the good, the bad and the ugly! Sorry to hear your GVOD isn't working out the way you had hoped, at least they're a lot closer to us so if I have to I could pay them a visit.

Here's a link of the Roadkill guys installing one and discussing the issues they can have. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SywsCGnoXOU


A little more progress, also gives me a chance to fuss over some earlier work as well as remove the grind marks.

[7dee2]

We confiscated the grandkids sandbox last week to setup camp sand blast, o boy this should be lots of fun! My neighbors love me!
We usually farm out the chassis but since this one is in pieces decided to do it ourselves.

[DWilbur]

your yard is looking like mine. sand blaster set up I even have the same HD bucket and funnel to recycle the blasting media. looking good.

[deejaaa1]

you are doing great work! subbed to see the rest of your build.
I have a GV unit in my 93. still running a 4:10 rear with 4L80. drops rpm by 500 but been so long since it ran, can't remember what the freeway rpm's were.