And so it begins................

[nuke1]

LMAO that is just too funny, i need the money not you, ok ok, we will split it and we can both have some thing from it, let pass this by the moderators and se what they sayÉ What do you say guys.

[highperf4x4]

you're going to get us thrown out of this bar!

I guess I need to figure out what's in the motor first. All I know about the '72 402's is they cut them down to 240hp but still over 400lbs torque. I wonder where exactly they made the reduction? Combustion chambers, pistons, cam? Maybe all of these.

I want this dawg growling over 500hp if I'm going to do it.

[joe231]

man a rod??
that sucks!
time to do an LS swap

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by joe231

man a rod??
that sucks!
time to do an LS swap

Yeah when I got back from your place I raised it up and changed the tranny filter and fluid and pulled the dust cover off. All the torque converter bolts were good and tight and I spun the flywheel and couldn't see any fractures. I was able to tighten up the passenger side exhaust pipe to the manifold and I checked the starter, it's tight. I left the dust cover off and sure enough it was still doing it. The more I listened to it, the more it sounded like a rod.

As for the ls swap, it sounds cool but I get my kicks building performance engines and I could make a demon of a gen1 motor for less than what it would cost me to swap to a used lsx. Besides, I love the monster torque of the big blocks!!

[highperf4x4]

I need to go to bed but this is weighing on my mind. I wonder if this is a lifter issue and it's transferring to the fuel pump since the fuel pump rod runs on the cam and transferring to the fuel line coming to the tank? Maybe that's why it sounds so loud near the gas tank? I might just pull the vc's and take a peak.

[JohnC]

It all starts with pulling the valve covers. Once you do that it's all over man. Next thing you know you will have parts laying everywhere.

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by JohnC

It all starts with pulling the valve covers. Once you do that it's all over man. Next thing you know you will have parts laying everywhere.

Well I can't really do that. We're looking at moving soon so I can't just tear it down and go crazy yet. We'll see though.......... you never know!

While we're on the subject, ask your engine guy what he knows about the 402's

[JohnC]

I'll pm you his name and number.

[nuke1]

So did you get through the nite with sleep, deciding what you want for a motor, and if you really want to copy cat mine, go ahead, just shows me that `` I am KINDA A BIG DEAL`` LOL. just kidding. however mine cost nearly 10 grand to build, canadian so i guess about 8 american, I hate the stupid exchange rate thing, you ask me we are all american in a way, right North america.

[joe231]

holy hell! 8-10G's
you must have some serious power!

[highperf4x4]

Haven't you seen his videos?

And he's got 24.5 mpg too!

I'm gonna pull the valve covers and take a look at things. This might be a weak lifter situation. The friggin engine runs so damn good and the oil pressure is so high I just can't believe it's a rod. Anyway, I'm gonna investigate more.

I still want to know exactly what you did to yours nuke. I can probably save a chunk of change since I do 80% of the work myself.

[joe231]

I haven't
point me in the right direction, please?

[americanmusc1e]

sorry to hear about the motor..................but if you have to rebuild it:

do this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-88890534/
swap out the cam for a bigger one and swap the heads for a set of AFRs
forged crank
forged rods
forged pistons....all included

[nuke1]

Well, my engine cost no labour but what it cost for the machine work on the block, never again, i will buy a motown block next time. Mine is .40 over, line bored, torque plate bored, 0 deck height, balanced and blueprinted. flat top pistons, comp xe274 cam, world products sportsman 2 heads, edelbrock rpm intake, mallory distributer, and a holley street avenger. Roller rockers, completely checked and gone through by my friend Cory, he builds drag car and drag bike engines. that is about it, a few more little things.

Check out the camaro build for that engine work by cory.

Joe 231, check out my build, second last page i think, the are there.

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by joe231

I haven't
point me in the right direction, please?

It's in his havoc build thread in his siggy but with you viewing 40 posts per page it will probably be on the last page.

Originally Posted by americanmusc1e

sorry to hear about the motor..................but if you have to rebuild it:

do this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-88890534/
swap out the cam for a bigger one and swap the heads for a set of AFRs
forged crank
forged rods
forged pistons....all included

That's a pretty good deal for 512lbs of torque but you know me brother. I likes to build em!

Originally Posted by nuke1

Well, my engine cost no labour but what it cost for the machine work on the block, never again, i will buy a motown block next time. Mine is .40 over, line bored, torque plate bored, 0 deck height, balanced and blueprinted. flat top pistons, comp xe274 cam, world products sportsman 2 heads, edelbrock rpm intake, mallory distributer, and a holley street avenger. Roller rockers, completely checked and gone through by my friend Cory, he builds drag car and drag bike engines. that is about it, a few more little things.

Check out the camaro build for that engine work by cory.

Joe 231, check out my build, second last page i think, the are there.

Well that's pretty much the same as the engine I built for the 4x4. It's a 350 bored .030 over, flat top pistons, align bored, decked, crank was straightened, turned, polished, chamfered, balanced/blueprinted, heads got 3 angle valve job, new valves, z-28 springs, shaved. Compression is about 10:1. Comp 12-242-2 camshaft, factory aluminum dual plane intake, flowtech headers, edelbrock 600cfm 4bbl. For a 5000lb truck it moves pretty flippin good but my mileage is not even close to the 20's ......





As you can see from the mud baked onto the headers I haven't been easy on it either!!

[bigbadchev72]

Originally Posted by highperf4x4

It's in his havoc build thread in his siggy but with you viewing 40 posts per page it will probably be on the last page.



That's a pretty good deal for 512lbs of torque but you know me brother. I likes to build em!



Well that's pretty much the same as the engine I built for the 4x4. It's a 350 bored .030 over, flat top pistons, align bored, decked, crank was straightened, turned, polished, chamfered, balanced/blueprinted, heads got 3 angle valve job, new valves, z-28 springs, shaved. Compression is about 10:1. Comp 12-242-2 camshaft, factory aluminum dual plane intake, flowtech headers, edelbrock 600cfm 4bbl. For a 5000lb truck it moves pretty flippin good but my mileage is not even close to the 20's ......





As you can see from the mud baked onto the headers I haven't been easy on it either!!

I would HIGHLY suggest replacing that plastic fuel filter with a metal one or put it on the suction side of the fuel pump.

I was on my way to a wheeling trip weekend with mine installed that same way, Apparently mine was plugged up and I was srging like crazy trying to cruise down the hiway at 60mph, I pulled over and mine was swollen to about twice the size it is supposed to be. It would have been horrible if it would have exploded!

[highperf4x4]

Yeah I'm going to switch it back to a metal filter. It was there for observation while I was tuning the edelbrock. It can't get close enough to the headers to right now to get hot enough to expand and my fuel pump is stock mechanical so it's only about 6psi anyway. Still I don't care for the plastic filters anyway unless I'm needing to watch fuel flow.

Good advice.

[bigbadchev72]

Originally Posted by highperf4x4

Yeah I'm going to switch it back to a metal filter. It was there for observation while I was tuning the edelbrock. It can't get close enough to the headers to right now to get hot enough to expand and my fuel pump is stock mechanical so it's only about 6psi anyway. Still I don't care for the plastic filters anyway unless I'm needing to watch fuel flow.

Good advice.

Just to clarify for others that may be running this setup I am running a stock fuel pump as well. Not a good idea to be running these filters on the pressure side of the pump.

[highperf4x4]

I agree. You also have to be careful to keep it away from a major heat source like an exhaust pipe even if it's before the pump. Yours had to have swollen because it got too hot. That is actually bad even for a metal filter. It will cause vapor lock if nothing else.

[scotts62]

Anything is better than those glass filter that are out there..

That sucks about the engine man..
I took a day off today and went to the machine shop and bore the engine for the green 92 .040 over, now all i need is pistons and its all set

[highperf4x4]

Good deal Scott. Post up pics!

I'm gonna have to start a new thread for my problem. It's turned into a puzzle.

[scotts62]

[TheSebring]

My filter's about 8 inches from the carb. Does that meet the requirements for filter inflation ?

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by TheSebring

My filter's about 8 inches from the carb. Does that meet the requirements for filter inflation ?

You can't run a metal filter that close to your alternator!!!! IT MIGHT PICK UP STATIC ELECTRICITY AND EXPLODE!!!!!!!!

[JohnC]

That really messed with me for a second. Blake now has your avatar, and you have a different one. I had to go back and see who was who