702 GMC V-12 powered '62 GMC 1-ton

[jeffspower]

Depending on what your TH400 is out of, most of them have pretty low shift points and go into third pretty early. "playing around" with the governor & modulator is easy to do to make it shift early & "hang on" to high gear under throttle. My '72 has a TH400 and I can shift the transfer case from high to low decent going down the road- and of course it isn't synchronized as I believe your aux. is.

[68K20 x Drill]

Get the governor from a diesel Th400, and it will shift very early.

[cayoterun]

We now have a '84 Chev TH400 tranny in and running. Big hurdle overcome with the knowledge and help of two people.

I'd like to thank Jim @ Phoenix Casting Co. of Nebraska for designing and machining the #2 flywheel housing adapter ring to Chevy trannys. Great job, Jim.

The other goes to a member of this board, Locomotive Breath. He designed and built the drive plate adapter. It bolts to the optional irrigation V-12 flywheel, then a standard 350 Chev flywheel bolts to it. Very straight forward and simple design in both. Great work by both of you.

After all was installed, I run the engine up to 2500rmp at all speeds and gears in between trying to find any vibrations. It's smoother than cream and quiet as can be.
Maybe now progress will be a little faster
Cayoterun

[jeffspower]

Cool. Looks pretty simple, with a lot of thought & measuring needed to get it right. Now you can bolt up anything from an 18 speed to a powerglide!

[Conundrum]

This is an interesting build, looking forward to seeing more.

[Restrorob]

Hey cayoterun,

I read every one of the 322 reply's last week and am intrigued by this awesome build. Do ya have any updates for us ?

BTW, I once owned a 62 GMC with one of these V6's, Never knew they were the platform for this killer V12.....

[cayoterun]

Since we decided what tranny we'd use and installed, it's been kinda' dull. We have the cab back on, now trying to get all controls and linkage on it.

I was able to graft the F350 power steering pump, brake master and booster to this truck. All that is standard '72 F350 now. No one will know when we get it all covered up with GM stuff.

I'm using a '63 F### Galaxy auto steering column. If someone has a wiring diagram for the auto tranny switch on the steering column handy for sale or use, I'd sure be interested in buying one. I want to be sure that thing won't crank in any position but park.

Josh/Liz, This thread seems to be using alot of web space, so if it is too much, I'll be glad to pay extra dues or donation.

When we get the linkages hooked up, I'll post some pics before setting the front clip on.

Thanks for all the interest, support, and help from all. Even several local farmers are real supportive and glad we're bringing the 'ol girl back to life.

Cayoterun

[locomotive breath]

Nice work, looks like your just about ready for a test drive.

[watahyahknow]

now there's a plan , you prolly need to make the hood narrower and lower maibe change the fenders with smaller ones to make the wheels look like they fit

[cayoterun]

Little by little.

Here's a fresh coat of '62 GMC "Palomino Tan". (Dirty Brown).

I needed to paint back of cab before trying to fit bed, got started and couldn't quit.

With a decent hood and a coat of dust, I don't think anyone will notice anything different about this truck.
A better door is on the future wish list.

Cayoterun

I lost my Pete hood idea. They think they can repair it.

[FoxNotch]

are the sides bowed out on the pete nose? If that's the case, they'll try to hit you for new braces inside the nose.... that's what costs $$$. A new crown alone is gonna cost in the upper hundreds. It makes me cringe when I see the bills for these things.

[cayoterun]

It's my son's truck. Repair estimate was several thousand, but that included all the front clip. That's the reason for hunting shortcuts.
Just walking by, sure don't look like that much damage. Repair prices seem crazy high anymore.
Cayoterun

[FoxNotch]

Originally Posted by cayoterun

It's my son's truck. Repair estimate was several thousand, but that included all the front clip. That's the reason for hunting shortcuts.
Just walking by, sure don't look like that much damage. Repair prices seem crazy high anymore.
Cayoterun

I could believe it. Like I said, see if you can talk to someone at the shop and see if they can salvage the braces on the inside of the hood. Those (and labor), is where the money is at in that repair.

[thirdstreettito]

Truck is gonna be cool when done!

[LUV2XCLR8]

Looking good wylie

[Damien]

Wow. The truck is looking good. It sure has come a long way from just an engine sitting on a stand.

[jonzcustomshop]

Well, I love this build... I had seen it before, but had lost interest with the modern cab idea.. I love the longnose 62 gmc!
I haven't seen you discuss how he hood will be done, and had an idea for you...
If you just welded 2 hoods together, there would be some issues.. you would probably need a step ladder to raise it all the way up, and it might be close to 150+ pounds, which could be dangerous if it came crashing down.....
My idea is to hinge it on both sides, like an old 30's buick,maybe you could incorporate a piano style hinge under the center bevel of the hood on each side, with a thick support brace running under the 4 inch space under the center.
here is a quick photo chop...

[cayoterun]

I like the photo and gull-wing hood idea. Looks great. The gull-wing would sure make the motor more visible and accessable, and that's the purpose of this folly,--uh--project.

I have a friend building another long-nose, and has built an extended hood, so waiting to see how he comes out.

The problem we have now is the radiator. I have it mounted as low as I can and it's still about 4-5" taller than cab-cowl. I can lower the radiator more by going electric fans. I've kinda' put the rad-hood question aside for now 'til getting bed, fuel tank, and batteries mounted. Hope to have them mounted this week, and maybe can see if it will at least move under it's power.

I keep looking for a shorter and wider radiator that has the cooling capacity for it.

Keep the ideas coming. I can use all the help I can get.
Thanks,
Cayoterun

Our future daughter-in-law is a born and raised Missoula girl.

[jonzcustomshop]

another shot of the hood idea, would need to be lengthened, of course...

[watahyahknow]

he also could do the two part gullwing hood front to back if he just do the hinge on the straight part and leave the gap on the curved part on the front of the hood , if you have the space underneath the hood you could hinge both parts of the hood on seperate hinges a little out of the middle wish might make it a bit lighter to lift you can make the hinges under the hood that way so they dont show , you need room in the centre tough cause each hoodpart will dip in a bit in the center .

you could take a look at that radiator to see if it can be mounted on its side so the tanks are on the left and right side then you only have to make a new fillerneck and maybe some new supports

[cayoterun]

"Balaur" needed some fresh air, and so did the shop.
Next steps are mount 60 gal propane tank on bed next to cab, and a battery box next to it. May use a 12/24volt system on it. (Start on 24v, run on 12v) Then maybe she will be under her own steam.

Bed: 9', From front bumper to rear of cab: 11'.

Future steps, (but always subject to change):

1: Extended running boards from rear of front wheel housing to back of cab.
2: Weld a skirt of light diamond plate around the bottom of bed down even with the bottom of the bed in rear and near or even with bottom of cab. (hide truck frame under bed to give the truck a lower profile)
3: Hook up wiring, lights, start/neutral switch, accessories, etc.

4: Hood/radiator. I like the gull-wing idea. I think the photo-chop looks great. (Far better than the truck will when it's finished, I'm sure) I have 2 hoods and can go any direction with it. The hood is sitting on top of the radiator in these pics. The radiator is 3-1/2" too tall. If we can get this rad. remounted, or another shorter/wider one, it would really open up more options.
This radiator is solid cast-iron, weighs 220#, and came off of an old industrial Waukesha engine from an oil field pulling unit. Sure would help to get rid of some weight.

Keep thinkin' and photo-choppin'. It sure helps.

Doc told me the other day, I've probably had another mini-stroke, but things seem ok now. Vision a little more blurry at times, but ok. I've learned in life we have to play the cards we're dealt, so life is good.

Thanks,
Cayoterun

[62 C60]

You need to post a straight side shot.

[68GMCCustom]

Coming along nicely.
Looks like the seat is closer to the rear wheels then the fronts?

[watahyahknow]

i wouldve never expected it but it allmost looks factory

[cayoterun]

These are the only full side views I took today.
I went out and measured distance from center of front axle to center of seat. It's 80".
Center of seat to center of rear axle. 78".
Two inches closer to rear axle than front. Bet it will ride rough since I dropped the rear springs down on the overloads/w long shackles.

I've wonder what class this truck fits in. rat-rod, hot-rod, classic, antique or what?
Since it's not slow, not fast---- It must be an old junkie half-fast truck.

Cayoterun