Attempting my first build 72 K5

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

opinions / options please

I have a original 72 blazer tank thanks to 1rippen. I had a couple of options I was thinking I could do with it, so here goes

Options 1 - Have the dents repaired ($250-$300 quotes from local shops) Then have my guy at the radiator shop acid wash the inside and relined for $175 - Total $475 and I have a nice original restored tank.

Option 2 - Buy a steel reproduction tank which are made in China to my knowledge ($175ish), plus shipping cost, and the radiator guy will swap the filler neck for $45 - Total w/o shipping cost $230

I like the idea of buying a new steel tank, but with all the nightmares I hear about repro stuff I'm afraid it still wont fit correctly. In the end I and up pissing more money down the drain and reverting back to option 1.

If anybody has done option 2 and it worked out great, please let me know where you bought the steel tank from and if you had any issues.


I have the original straps, the 2 square washers, 1 spacer bracket, (need 1 more) and the original square u-shape bolt. I'm in the process of fabricating the rubber isolators thanks to member seventyone who is sending me is originals to use for making the dimensions.

[DeadheadNM]

Throwing this out there: skip the dent repair as these will be covered by the skid plate and just acid wash/reline...

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I guess you and I will be the only ones who know.. or anybody that reads this.

I think I'll just sand it down to get all the scale/rust off then have it acid washed/lined and then primer and paint it myself.

In the meantime I'll ask around and see if someone would fix the dent's for less. They don't need to be perfect.

[IronCanine]

I faced the exact same situation. Radiator guy couldn't get the original straightened out good enough...and to his credit he called the ball and didn't charge me. I got a new tank (from 1rippen btw) and swapped the neck. It came out great. I used the original straps which cleaned up nicely. I had a local machine shop reproduce the square u-bolt which was trash and had to be cut out on disassembly. We did line the new tank. The radiator guy had kind of gotten into the project (he did my radiator re-core as well) and painted the tank with some "galvanized" paint to homogenize it after neck swap. That didn't look too good, so we repainted it. Here are a few pics.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Looks nice! That might be a viable option if 1Rippen has a new tank and I can swap the necks.

I noticed on your rear leaf springs, the U shape bracket with the bolts that slides through the other end, you have them facing the rear. I put mine on the opposite way. Do you know if it makes a difference?

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Looks nice! That might be a viable option if 1Rippen has a new tank and I can swap the necks.

It's the same re-pro tank that most vendors sell. I got lucky that he one sitting around. It saved me a few bucks.

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I noticed on your rear leaf springs, the U shape bracket with the bolts that slides through the other end, you have them facing the rear. I put mine on the opposite way. Do you know if it makes a difference?

I don't think it matters...or that is to say I hope it doesn't.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

It's the same re-pro tank that most vendors sell. I got lucky that he one sitting around. It saved me a few bucks.



I don't think it matters...or that is to say I hope it doesn't.

If the repros are all the same then I guess it matters if I want my truck 96% american and 3% china 1% mexico.. My main concern is if the repro tank doesn't line up like it should, but seems like you didn't have any fitment issues and it sure does look nice

[mx289]

Here's a pic of a repro tank that was installed in my jimmy by the P/O.

Looks to fit ok.

[Eat Soot]

I went with the Repo tank and straps on mine. The filler neck is a real pain. I spent an hour up stairs at a Napa to get a hose that would work to connect to the tank and get around the body mount, I guess i could og cut off the old neck. Other than that I had no other fitment issues at all.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I'm ordering a new steel tank and have the neck swapped.

Got the tub back from media blasting. Came out real nice. I was worried about the rear quarter panel but there was only a very thin layer of bondo from when it was i a wreck back in the late 70's.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

more pics

[tjsblazer]

Tub looks good. Having good metal is 90% of the battle.
I'm still debating whether to refurb my tank or swap the neck to a new ones. Opinions are about a 50/50 split.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Tub looks good. Having good metal is 90% of the battle.
I'm still debating whether to refurb my tank or swap the neck to a new ones. Opinions are about a 50/50 split.

Thanks! They're going to do all the body work next. fix a few dents and remove the bondo and fix the curved lip of the rear wheel well. He's also going to repair the dash so I can put the original am Radio back in.

I took my tank, the one with all the dents to the guys I'm working with at the body shop and he immediately said "F... fixing that, buy a new steel one and swap the necks. I'm not sure how bad yours is, but if you are putting in a brand new engine like me, why take the chance.

[IronCanine]

Mike...that tub looks fantastic. I am so jealous of that metal. You are doing such an awesome job.

[DeadheadNM]

Nice!

[1972 Jimmy]

Tub looks great!! Your very lucky!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks a lot guys! I guess I can't complain to much about the PO mods he made to the frame since he left me with a nice metal

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Now that the tube is back it's crunch time. I have less than 2 months to put together a full rolling chassis before they're ready to mount the body back on the frame for final assembly.

1. I have most of the plumbing done
2. Assemble front axle and mount
3. E-brake cables
4. Mount Engine, Trans, and T-Case
5. Drive shafts
6. Radiator Core and Radiator.
7.

Anybody want come help?

[JJH Jimmy]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Now that the tube is back it's crunch time. I have less than 2 months to put together a full rolling chassis before they're ready to mount the body back on the frame for final assembly.

1. I have most of the plumbing done
2. Assemble front axle and mount
3. E-brake cables
4. Mount Engine, Trans, and T-Case
5. Drive shafts
6. Radiator Core and Radiator.
7.

Anybody want come help?

Nice job! everything looks great! I would love to come and help out! It would sure beat the -20 degree weather that we are having here.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by JJH Jimmy

Nice job! everything looks great! I would love to come and help out! It would sure beat the -20 degree weather that we are having here.

Thank Jimmy. -20 damn. I remember those cold winter months when I went to WMU and lived in Kalamazoo for 3 years. I sure don't miss those brutal winters

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I'm having a bad case of Murphy's Law consistently with this truck..

I installed the passenger side steering knuckle in less than 10 minutes.. No problem, torqued the lower ball joint nut 70 lbs of torque, spanner nut @ 50 lbs, and the top ball joint king nut @ 100 lbs..

I'm thinking this is great, I'll have this axle fully assembled with wheels on and back on the truck tonight..

NOPE!!!

The drivers side knuckle is giving me hell. I spent 4-5 hours last night trying every possible reason why the upper ball joint stud wont side all the through the spanner nut.. I tried adjusted how much I had the ball joints seated and various other tactics.

I'm stumped... When I torque the lower at 70 lbs and then i try to torque the spanner nut, it continues to spin through past the edge of last thread causing it to push the upper ball joint stud down...

Here's a pic.. you can see the upper ball joint is not all the way through the spanner.. this is as far as it would go, even with the lower torqued down.

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I took my tank, the one with all the dents to the guys I'm working with at the body shop and he immediately said "F... fixing that, buy a new steel one and swap the necks. I'm not sure how bad yours is, but if you are putting in a brand new engine like me, why take the chance.

Where did you / are you buying your tank?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Where did you / are you buying your tank?

Not sure yet.. Still researching the best place to get it.. I think they all come from the same manufacturer but i could be wring..

I called Early Classic because they're only 3 hours away and figured I'd save on shipping cost, but they told me they would have to order it from somewhere (didn't say where) and it would take 1-2 weeks for them to get it

[notsolo]

I guess you are trying to keep it as stock as possible. Just my 2 cents, Since it will be covered I would have 1 made.

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I'm having a bad case of Murphy's Law consistently with this truck..

I installed the passenger side steering knuckle in less than 10 minutes.. No problem, torqued the lower ball joint nut 70 lbs of torque, spanner nut @ 50 lbs, and the top ball joint king nut @ 100 lbs..

I'm thinking this is great, I'll have this axle fully assembled with wheels on and back on the truck tonight..

NOPE!!!

The drivers side knuckle is giving me hell. I spent 4-5 hours last night trying every possible reason why the upper ball joint stud wont side all the through the spanner nut.. I tried adjusted how much I had the ball joints seated and various other tactics.

I'm stumped... When I torque the lower at 70 lbs and then i try to torque the spanner nut, it continues to spin through past the edge of last thread causing it to push the upper ball joint stud down...

Here's a pic.. you can see the upper ball joint is not all the way through the spanner.. this is as far as it would go, even with the lower torqued down.

Mike I'm not sure I fully understand your problem, and I know you've had these things apart a couple of times, so I know you know what your doing... but I completely know how you feel. I fought my front axle at several spots. And it's only more frustrating when you've got your final finish on there. You're better than me, in that you powdered coated. All my axle bits are painted. Anyway, I fought the top ball joint adjusting sleeve. I couldn't get it torqued to spec without blowing it out the bottom (this may be what your saying). Then when I did get to the castle nut, it ended up well below the hole for the cotter pin. I put it together and took it apart a hand full of times. The two things that were really helpful to me were:

#1) This thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=430367&page=6 (you may already be aware of this one, but his final sequence of torquing things was very helpful to me, and what I used)

#2) I rolled the axle upside down. For some reason (probably gravity ), it seemed easier to get the ball joint to bite in the taper, and the angles seemed easier to work with on the jack stands. I don't really see why it would make a difference but it did for us.

...none of this may help you at all...but at the very least, just know I feel your frustration...and your post allowed me to instantly re-live it. And you'll get it. Your will is stronger than the truck's. It has to be.

Edit: Corrected the link...the first showed the sequence, but his build thread has more info.