47-55.1 Project "Bickle" 1948 1/2 ton 4.3 4l60e

[mongocanfly]

Voyager Stan.....feel free to start a build thread on your willys down in the alternative tinkering section...

[VoyagerXll]

I was unaware of the alternative tinkering section. It appears that there will be hours of good reading there. That section will be a good spot for my Willys project.

[VoyagerXll]

I was mistaken I do have the clam shell mounts as you posted. They too were separated. Am I correct in assuming that the " std anchor (brand) mounts for 60s/70s v8 cars" will have the same dimensions as the engine mount on my S10 engine? My guess is yes. If that is the case, I should be able to locate the frame anchor points correctly via the bolt shown in the picture that passes thru the "original" frame anchor point..I apologize for my ignorance concerning motor mounts.

The other picture shows a bolt-on frame anchor point that is used on some, I think, Blazers and perhaps others . If I could locate a pair, it might make the task a bit easier. Tomorrow,I may be headed to the salvage yard to have a look around


Not sure how to get the picture where I want it in relation to the text. I will see how it goes.

There is a really nice looking, very straight AD truck located where I live. It has been sitting there for several years, I know the owner but do not know if it is for sale or not.

Stan from north east NE

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by VoyagerXll

I was mistaken I do have the clam shell mounts as you posted. They too were separated. Am I correct in assuming that the " std anchor (brand) mounts for 60s/70s v8 cars" will have the same dimensions as the engine mount on my S10 engine? My guess is yes. If that is the case, I should be able to locate the frame anchor points correctly via the bolt shown in the picture that passes thru the "original" frame anchor point..I apologize for my ignorance concerning motor mounts.

The other picture shows a bolt-on frame anchor point that is used on some, I think, Blazers and perhaps others . If I could locate a pair, it might make the task a bit easier. Tomorrow,I may be headed to the salvage yard to have a look around


Not sure how to get the picture where I want it in relation to the text. I will see how it goes.

There is a really nice looking, very straight AD truck located where I live. It has been sitting there for several years, I know the owner but do not know if it is for sale or not.

Stan from north east NE

stan dont apologize, its not necessary, we are all here to help!

yes the older v8 mounts will bolt directly up to your 4.3 and they will fit a frame side mount like in your first picture. you can get all of the parts you need at a place like speedway.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...unts,1905.html

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/3-Bol...k-V8,7959.html


you would need to trim the universal motor mount and weld it on the s10 frame, 8 inches back is right behind where the front crossmember stops. remember that center to center of the frame side mounts should be 16.25" apart!


that picture of the frame side mount is the steel clamshell mount I was talking about. it would only work iif you bolted it to the frame in the stock location. I know a guy on another forum who did a 50s willys, he moved his (dodge) engine back 11 inches in his dakota frame. if you dont move it back, it will be pretty hard to get a radiator in it.


thanks for the heads up on the AD, unless you were considering it for yourself, in which case I recommend it!


back on this door. the miserable thing about the old door was how it shut but I had already put all the new felts and rubbers and glass in it. the new door also had a big problem with the regulator, it was stripped, more than stripped, it was worn down like an hour old christmas candy cane. I debated on cutting the splines off the bad door regulator and welding it to the new door, but my brother actually shamed me with some properly weighted "hmm"s and other "how lazy are you?" questions.

so I tackled it. if you havent done it, my advice is as follows: to get the (7 per door!) reluctant screws out, dont waste time with a flat head screwdriver. they have seen two or three US wars and are part of the golden era, so they know a thing about tenacity. Instead I used a big pair of vice grips on the heads to get them loose.



to get the regulators out, they come out the bottom hole in the door and the best way is to let the crank spindle down first and flip it over inside the door, so the window lift part comes out first. if you try taking it out spindle first it will get caught on the window stop in the middle of the door, flipping it over is easy and only took a second.



you can make out the worn spindle (and broken spring! surprise!) on the one due for replacement. install is reverse, put the spindle side in first, upside down, along the bottom of the door, then you can shove the arms up enough to grab them and get the inside track in the roller, then the spindle in the hole to get one screw just started, then rotate the center mount around and viola!

I had to uninstall the felts and rubbers and even the outside garnish molding (it
was stainless on this door, out of place with the rest of the truck) but hey, third time is a charm.




works great! I noticed there were slots in the center mount, no idea what that adjusts but I just put them back where they were. everything works ok. yes, my vice grips are PAST the splines, I couldnt find the window crank.

[8man]

Good for your brother, helping you along.

[joedoh]

haha we pick on each other a lot. its good stuff though.

a little history to start the day, first, I found the original picture of this truck (well, the cab anyway). the scrap red dot was super serious back then.



second, someone asked how to support the rear of the running board with only two frame brackets. its not that loose once you get all the bed bolts in but this is an extra bracket I build if they are wiggly. a couple joggles and a couple holes.



even though I have aftermarket gauges installed, the original cluster has to go inside the dash, the OBII doesnt like not having it installed, it sets a trouble code in the PCM as an uncommunicative serial device and wont let the alternator charge. I wanted it over the brake pedal bracket this time, usually I put it behind the speaker opening but I needed that room this time. I bagged it and taped it so it would be ok if the windshield leaked, and then viola, it fit right up there.




with underhood stuff done I got the hood on, no springs yet.



literally nothing else will fit haha. more in second post.

[joedoh]

next I set about getting all the underdash stuff done. brake pedal switch and special clip installed, fusebox and light switch underdash on the drivers side, floor courtesy lights routed. this guy was missing for several months, a directed search though and I found it.



what is it? on the modern column the cable shifter fits a special bracket, and if you dont put that staple in, a couple shifts and the cable housing will snap.



I had it in the "interior" bucket from disassembly but someone kicked the bucket outside and I didnt notice it was gone for a long time.

that done I cut the vents down to install, I used two chunks, the face vent/defrost section and the main face vent cut down to fit over the first. (I also shortened the glovebox, there is enough stuff back there now to choke a goat)



all installed, my master plan was to fire the single vent out the speaker grille, worked perfect!



that done I installed the HVAC controls and the bilge blower for a test



it worked well with the engine off, but without vacuum I couldnt test the various doors. so I started it up, an ohwellwhat thehell, checked AC operation. SUCCESS! AC blew ICE cold (albiet with a cycling compressor, no fan shroud to pull air, will be fixed)

was it cheaper to reuse all the factory stuff than use an old air or VA system? you freaking bet. especially since the system can be pulled fully charged, and a working system before = a working system after. was it easier? welll... no. but having installed the VA systems a couple times I will say it was a lot cheaper than it was a lot harder, meaning with VA you buy it for a lot more money than it is a problem to install the factory setup.

enough soapboxing. I am super happy that bilge blower blows STRONG. someone asked a while ago about how the original fan blew, compared to this it wouldnt put out a birthday cake.

[VoyagerXll]

Originally Posted by joedoh

yep thats fine, and posting here is fine too! all 4.3 (and really all sbc with a 3 bolt side mount) use the exact same mounting pattern. you cant use the clamshell heat shield, it has to be removed to use another type of mount.

this is what a clamshell looks like, used on 95.5 to 2003 s10






they use a steel bracket on the frame that doesnt match up to any other type of mount. they are always broken when I take a truck apart, that last picture is the ONE in 8 trucks that was not broken.

if I can help, let me know

My 75 year old brain is struggling with this…………

”I bolt up a jig with ½” black pipe (7/16 bolt fits in it) set 16.25” apart, hang it in the right spot and then build/weld the legs on, motor will bolt right up.

Main thing is the 16.25 measurement.
This picture below shows my set up to get the mounts situated. (I ordered a set from the local NAPA store)
When I did the annotation on the photo, I thought that my measurement was 16.25. I checked it this afternoon and I discovered that the bolts I used are not perfectly straight. If I rotate them I can get to 16 ½ “ between the black pipes; depending on the rotation, one of the ends of the locating bolt can be 1/8 to 3/16” higher than the other locating bolt.
I think I will go to town tomorrow and bet a couple lengths of ready rod. I hope that they will be straight……………..Would it be wishful thinking that this slight difference may not be any thing to be concerned with? Hopefully the ready rod will be straighter than the bolts I used., and I can get a more accurate measure.

I would like to move the engine back about 81/2 inches, I am using a 4X4 S10 frame, so moving the engine back 5-6 inches is about all that can be done before the rear torsion bar cross member runs into the transfer case. I have a cpl of ideas on how to create more room so that the transfer case will clear the rear CM support I will cross that bridge after I figure the mounts out If I get lucky 8.5 inches will work.

I am impressed with the AC unit and how nicely every thing in the engine bay looks..........Like every thing about the Bickle build

I tried to send this as a message, but could not figure out how to attach a picture.

Once I get the mounts figured out and the drive train in, I will start a thread in the area that was suggested.

Thanks again for your help

Stan From north east NE

[joedoh]

16.25 is a center to center measurement, so if your pipes are 16.25 apart they will be almost 16.75 apart center to center. if you had clamshell mounts originally they will measure closer to 17" center to center. offset to the passenger side if you need to, but be mindful of the exhaust manifold clearance to the upper control arm on a 4x4.

I like your jig setup! I have done that too in the past. next truck I do will see me design repeatable weld in mounts.

[VoyagerXll]

I finally this thru my thick head and am now headed to make the passenger side motor mount
Thanks again
stan from nebraska

[joedoh]

great news stan!

worked on the small small small trans bump, laid a little asphalt sound deadening material too.




then jute



then carpet! I think the color will go well with the dash/seat/steering wheel.



put in the glovebox and hvac controls, would have buttoned up the dash but missing the screws and didnt feel like masking up for homer derpt.



more tomorrow!

[VoyagerXll]

Looking good...........is the asphalt material that is used for roof flashing? I have read that it works quite well and the cost is reasonable.
I put a 1947 WC Dodge on a 1990 Dakota chassis about 10 years ago. I used limited sound deadening material, and there is a lot of wind noise in the cab. When I get to that point on my project, I will look into the sound deadening material........... I think a lot of the noise is just part of the non aerodynamics of these old trucks.

[joedoh]

wind noise is different than road noise and both are different from reflected noise. seal up wind noise, use mass adders for road noise, use thick pads for reflected noise!


more finish work today. need a glovebox latch from storage, dwindling supply of those. dont worry about the smudged glass, in process!



on the rear view mirror its for a car and supposed to mount on the dash, but i didnt want to drill a hole so I used a 5/16 weld nut on the windshield garnish, worked great.



most cowl vents dont open. this one is super reluctant, I use a breaker bar for leverage but have a pretty good feel when something is going to break loose or just break, this feels like a break. someone else can screw with it, I put in AC for a reason. next truck I will just weld it shut but on this one some silicone will do it.



wipers windshield center bar and outside mirror done.



undercoating hid the seam sealer by blending it to the bedliner. I will put the OG bed wood and strips in the bed over the floor if someone wants.




tomorrow I am looking at a honey hole with a good buddy, and a few other things too. maybe get the bumper welded on and the door panels


STILL WAITING ON SEAT. this sucks. he is usually 3 weeks. its 6.

[OutlawDrifter]

That dash looks familiar...hmmmm.

Looking good, almost there!

[joedoh]

it should look REALLY familiar, I couldnt find (didnt really look for) a chevrolet speaker trim so I used the GMC!

[oldman3]

Looks great Russ...Jim

[youngrodder]

Looks great. I too had trouble with my fresh air vent. I had to keep working it back and forth and hit with PB Blaster repeatedly.

Marc

[joedoh]

visited the honey hole, bought 5 trucks. a 49 chevy 4400 fire truck cab and front clip, a 49 ford f-1 (always wanted to build one!), a 49 willys overland truck, a surprisingly complete/intact 59 international shortbed 4x4 (for my brother the international guy) and a 1994 toyota std cab 2wd pickup. I figure if I can get it titled, I will just use it as a donor for the ford!

guy had some wild stuff, there were at least 100 67-79 ford trucks there and old semi trucks, houses on beams still hooked to the old cabover fords that hauled them there. there was a 67 lemans 326 with a tree growing through the rear of it, an early econoline and chevy 108 van, this huge gal diamond t tandem axle wrecker that looked like a semi tow truck, even a GM diesel (not a detroit) that was as tall and almost as long as a fullsize chevy van it was infront of, I think from one of the 4 cranes dismantled on the property.

got the bumper mounts designed, need to cut them out.



realized my garage is a pigsty (it always is in the throes of finishing) so before cutting I cleaned the truck and pushed it out for some time in the sun.





made a run 30 minutes north to pick up a FItech for my brother, he got a pretty good deal and its really like ordering online because all he has to do is push a button haha




rather than complaining about how small the forum images have shrunk (again), instead I will complain about how long the seat is taking. its been a month and a half and now he says two more weeks.

[GreasyLikeaBurger]

[Tempest67]

always making progress,

looking good

[joedoh]

thanks t man!

greasy its one week now! :P

got the front bumper on, still deciding on a rear bumper. I haave a couple aftermarket rear bumpers, even a black one. still deciding though.

taillights wired, rear fender braces attached, door panels on. just need a seat!

[VoyagerXll]

the yellow fenders are a nice contrast to the rest of the truck. It looks great

[oldman3]

Russ, getting closer and closer each day...Jim

[8man]

The truck looks good. You have this down.

[VoyagerXll]

I am slowly making progress on my project. I did get the drivers side motor mounts made. I should have asked this question prior to making them.......what thickness of metal should they be made from?
Now I am headed to the shop to see what I can screw up today. Keep up the good work

Stan from NE