68 K-10 SWB build thread - project Money Pit...pics galore!

[msgross]

Even though I have a nice 4WD shroud I decided to work on my original to hopefully sell next weekend at Carlisle...

First coat of epoxy on the crack... next a little sanding and paint the enitre shroud.

[msgross]

Finally got a decent set of "fairly rust free" doors.... Cleaned the bondo out of the drivers side and mounted both doors.

Any body have ideas for killing rust that's on the inside of a door? The outside is nice but I need to seal up the inside...

I know I can have it acid dipped but that's $125 or so per door...

anyone need some 67 vent windows?

[Hart_Rod]

[QUOTE=msgross;2834144]Finally got a decent set of "fairly rust free" doors.... Cleaned the bondo out of the drivers side and mounted both doors.

Any body have ideas for killing rust that's on the inside of a door? The outside is nice but I need to seal up the inside...

[quote]

Get a cheap one gallon garden sprayer and some POR 15 or similar and soak the inside of the door. Then turn the door a million different directions to let the POR 15 run into every crack, .

PS Wipe of any that comes on the outside and you'll save yourself a ton of sanding later on, .

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Id do the same thing with a garden sprayer but put rust mort in it the stuff goes a long ways and is pretty cheap..

[msgross]

rust mort... hmm, never heard of it...

Good idea, is that stuff (POR and rust mort) thin enough to spray or I guess I could thin it...

I do still have some of the Master Series sealer...


Just won some NOS tailgate trim on Ebay... $96 for everything but the center piece. Even had the lower piece but 68's didn't use that I don't believe....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=320279835470

[Hart_Rod]

Mike, POR 15 is as thin as water. It will spray quite well. I recommend you do the same to the inside of your cab after you get it done.

R

[msgross]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Mike, POR 15 is as thin as water. It will spray quite well. I recommend you do the same to the inside of your cab after you get it done.

R

Good idea, think that will last better than etching primer?

[msgross]

OK, so I finally cleaned out most of my "stash" and picked up some new sheetmetal...

New full floor with braces, two SWB bedsides, two Front fenders, front sway bar, cab lights, SS west coast JR mirrors, steel grille rings and headlight buckets (looking to chrome them), kick panel patches, B pillar, A pillar patches and a nice tailgate. So I am fairly rust free right now. Gonna start bracing up the cab, cutting the floor out and getting it blasted before I start with the new floor install.

[msgross]

finally got to some real work on the truck. Got the welder running and placed some supports to start cutting out the entire floor....

[jaros44sr]

Nice bracing Mike, that should hold it, now you can get to cutting it out with your anglegrinder. Buy a box of 25 at Home Depot you'll need them
Take your time on the spot welds across the front and back. Those plates don't look familiar, under the gas tank, but they could really help in alignment
Leave the two longitude braces on till after you get back from sandblasting
Did you get your floorboards from Jon?

[msgross]

Got the floor and fenders from Jon, slightly damaged bedsides from Bill Athey (pickupman) and some other parts from Tim Christian.

I guess 68 was the only year with the angle brackets on the rear wall. The cab mount bolts screw up through them and another bolt goes down through to hold the to the floor. They are spot welded to the rear wall. Should make and easy rear alignment.

What measurements should I be concerned with?


The rust on the floor doesn't look so bad after you spill motor oil in it!

[jb4short]

Mike, I'd brace directly across the door openings and at least one top to bottom diagonal. What you have is good but you'll be suprised how much movement can come with no floor in it

[msgross]

I thought about that, I think the up and down diagonal will keep it braced.

I am gonna leave the main supports in the floor until after blasting.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by msgross

Got the floor and fenders from Jon, slightly damaged bedsides from Bill Athey (pickupman) and some other parts from Tim Christian.

I guess 68 was the only year with the angle brackets on the rear wall. The cab mount bolts screw up through them and another bolt goes down through to hold the to the floor. They are spot welded to the rear wall. Should make and easy rear alignment.

What measurements should I be concerned with?


The rust on the floor doesn't look so bad after you spill motor oil in it!

As many as you can take, I took some off the back window to the floor, but you have that bracket that will give you elavation. Diagonal DS 'A' to PS 'B' and conversely, rite everthing down for future referance, I put it rite on the cab

Didyou mount that new floorboard on your chassis yet?

[msgross]

didn't mount it yet... that might be a starting point though... make sure it fits....

wait, I can't because of the shifters, this is a low hump floor and my drivetrain is installed...

[msgross]

I did pick up some new LMC marker lights from Rust Buster (board member) at Carlisle. Overall I would say that they are very similar to the original. Only difference is the pointy part and the rubber boot is missing from the aftermarket one's. OEM is on the right, new is in plastic and on the left. I need to compare the orange plastic color to an NOS one that I have...

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by msgross

didn't mount it yet... that might be a starting point though... make sure it fits....

wait, I can't because of the shifters, this is a low hump floor and my drivetrain is installed...

Are you keeping it a low hump? Your build is looking good

[msgross]

I'm going back with a high hump, my firewall is a high hump and so is my new rubber floor mat.

Here is some progress... braced accross the door openings and took some measurements. Then out came the sawzall!!!

I'm leaving the bottom supports in till after blasting but I got this done in two hours...

I really need a hard wired sawzall... my batteries are dying to fast...

Now you can see some of the mess left by the PO...It was solid in parts, but not correct...

[msgross]

and some more...

[msgross]

and the cutting begins...

[msgross]

Well, I had a few extra hands at the house today so I figured that I would put them to work.

Since I had all the parts for my bed I needed a little motivation for the build. So why not install a SWB bed?

I still need to cleanup the cross members, picked them up a few years ago at Carlisle for about $100. mine where shot. The aftermarket panels needed a little motivation to go together but nothing a hammer can't fix. My bedside had some slight damage where the the front panels attach at the top....

[msgross]

Then I figured that the ole'girl hadn't been started in nearly a year so it needs to be....

My radiator was shot last time so it was off to the recyclers. I started calling around for a new radiator and AutoZone sells one for $180, then NAPA was $280+tax and shipping for a Modine.

So I found www.radiators.com and called them up. The lady had a 3 core that would work but I told her I wanted a 4 core. She took my number and said that she would search for one. About 10 minutes later I get a call and she says that she has one that will work. It's a 4 core but had auto tranny cooler (i have a manual), shoudln't matter as long as I leave them plugged up. Price was $275 (made by the company that bought out Modine?) I asked her when I would get it and she stated that the driver was out and should be back in an hour????? What? Well, come to find out they are located in Harrisburg,PA and no BS I had this little car in my driveway an hour later. Lifetime warranty, copper and brass 4 core radiator for $290 total. Not cheap but that seems to be the rate for a decent one.

My dad and I installed the rad support and rad and fired up the 327 for a little disorderly conduct in the neighborhood....

[ChaseDale3and8]

Looking really good! Can't wait to see how well that cab floor comes together. I've been waiting quite a while to see somebody put one of those new cab floors in. Maybe someday they will start making them for the 73-87s too! They seem to be priced reasonable, and if they fit really well, would definately be a better alternative to trying to patch up an old floor in my opinion. Anyway, good work! Keep it up! I love watching this build! ...Joe

[msgross]

I forgot to ask the guy if I am suppose to take the two bands off the radiator though...

[jaros44sr]

Looks nice Mike, next step to put your wood bed in it? What are you using to clean up the crossmembers?

More pics, more pics, or video...Take the banding off