Project: Recycle

[Painter D]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Those look like "truck fuel lines",... with the short piece being the line that extends thru the cab floor from the in cab tank.

Look like truck lines to me too.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 69chevyshort

Look like truck lines to me too.

Guess I'll make a phone call then 'cause that's not what I paid for (next to last line)....

[SCOTI]

I called & spoke w/someone today about the fuel lines. He asked me to e-mail him my pics so he could get an idea on the length of the lines. Hopefully there will be some quick follow-up....

Tonight, I just about finished up the front rubber/flex brake line routing. I still have a couple of quick items to cut/clean. Then, I need to figure out how I'm going to attach the lines to the upper ART a-arms to keep them out of harms way....

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

..... I need to figure out how I'm going to attach the lines to the upper ART a-arms to keep them out of harms way....

I will be watching for this. I need to do the same on mine. The black zip ties are working, but it doesn't look very high tech.

[franky69c10]

Look'n good

[Jonboy]

If the zip ties are working, maybe some adel clamps will work to secure them to the frame?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

If the zip ties are working, maybe some adel clamps will work to secure them to the frame?

It's securing them to the arms that's problematic.

They make nice clean 'clamps' for attaching brake lines to tubing (roll cages/frames) but they're only available in .250". The rubber flex lines are .375" & I'm not sure there's enough material to simply drill them out....

[Jonboy]

They make rubber insulated ones. I am not sure, but it seems like there may be different sizes too.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

They make rubber insulated ones. I am not sure, but it seems like there may be different sizes too.

I have something on the way to try. Regardless, I'll post up what I eventually use.

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

The black zip ties are working, but it doesn't look very high tech.

No zip ties for me.....

[N2TRUX]

I looked at them again last night when I installed the e3 ride height sensor in the front. I don't see a lot of options. I do not want to drill holes, and a clamp around the arm would be huge. I am waiting to see what you have come up with.

[Jonboy]

There are already holes drilled in the arms for the brake lines to attach to. Another hole or two (especially with a screw in it) shouldn't hurt anything.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

There are already holes drilled in the arms for the brake lines to attach to. Another hole or two (especially with a screw in it) shouldn't hurt anything.

I think Scot and Ken both have tubular a-arms from RideTech.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

There are already holes drilled in the arms for the brake lines to attach to. Another hole or two (especially with a screw in it) shouldn't hurt anything.

Originally Posted by lolife99

I think Scot and Ken both have tubular a-arms from RideTech.

Correct. We have aftermarket tubular ART arms.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Correct. We have aftermarket tubular ART arms.

Scot this is what I have come up with. I don't like drilling holes in the arms, but I see no choice. I think a small hole in the side of the upper ball joint pocket might be safe. I don't have a "Made for You" line clamp large enough, so I may order some of those instead of this style.

Sorry about the thread-jack. I'll move these to my post later if you prefer.

[Jonboy]

How about bending something in the shape of an "S" to go over the arm, and have the lower part hold the hose?

[my67chevytruck]

would something like this with the tab work for you guys? possibly bolt the clamp to the arm, and use the tab to secure the brake line clamp too...

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...mp-p-1727.html

[SCOTI]

Ken, I considered the plated BJ area but it seemed to be too far toward the end of the a-arm to be optimal. I don't mind the discussion topic or your pics....

Jon, I have considered various options on your suggestion. I was actually going to just weld a tab to the a-arm & use a line clamp screwed to the tab. The issue was I wanted to be able to shift the line to the optimal position so there's no binding during steering as well as suspension travel. Still considering options though....

Heath, I did look into these but deemed them 'too bulky' for this application. I even considered buying one & cutting it in half to yield 2 smaller clamps. I did choose a similar option & should know by this weekend if it will work. Of course, I'll post pics as soon as it happens (or it didn't happen right?) .

I did finish up my hard brake lines @ the front end of the frame. I need to get some hardware today to permanently mount everything & then I'll get some pics. Still waiting on the 'tech' guy to look @ my fuel line pics & decide if they sent me the wrong lines or if I don't know what I'm talking about....

[my67chevytruck]

sounds like you got it covered...

[N2TRUX]

Scot- My problem area is the castle nut on the upper ball joint. The line want to pull against it when turned sharp. I bent the hard line that is attached to the caliper, but the soft line still gets very close.

I talked with Tony at Ride Tech about drilling holes in that area. He said it would not be a concern. In fact he assured me that the upper control arm has almost no load on it, and we would be safe to drill and tap the control arm tubes.I appreciate his knowledge, but I just can't bring myself to do that, so I am going to drill the ball joint cup.

Considering your needs, the www.made4uproducts.com Screwless Chazis Clamp would be ideal.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Scot- My problem area is the castle nut on the upper ball joint. The line want to pull against it when turned sharp. I bent the hard line that is attached to the caliper, but the soft line still gets very close.

Considering your needs, the www.made4uproducts.com Screwless Chazis Clamp would be ideal.

Those are for 1 5/8" tubing. The ART arms are 1.25"....

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Those are for 1 5/8" tubing. The ART arms are 1.25"....

Dang it, you are right. I ran across them while looking up the T-Clamps. I didn't research the tube size when I posted it this morning. Looks like the Single place T-Clamp will be the one I need.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Dang it, you are right. I ran across them while looking up the T-Clamps. I didn't research the tube size when I posted it this morning. Looks like the Single place T-Clamp will be the one I need.

My a-arms are also the 1st design where yours are a revision. Your arm have one main 'hoop' that attaches to the BJ plate. Mine has 2 separate 'legs' that attach to the BJ plate where you considered drilling/tapping.

[SCOTI]

I'm freakin' burning out on this stuff..... I'm trying to finalize everything that's bolted to the frame so I can disassemble for color. The latest hickup? The lower ART arms had the shock bracket re-worked so it wouldn't be the lowest portion of the arm (this was done w/the notched OE c.member when it was on my 68). Now the arms are being used w/a Dropmember.

My shock brackets won't work; not enough travel distance. Nates shock brackets won't work either. I guess his lower mount is spaced farther out-board vs. where I welded my lower mounts so the shock is contacting both the upper a-arm shaft nut & the side of the frame where it 'dimples' @ the OE shock stud location.

I going to have to modify one upper mount or the other to create something that will work....

[watahyahknow]

those clamps look nice , i think earls have simulair ones , you might even be able to make youre own if you have some of that aluminium left you used to make the spacers with .
it might allso pay of to scrounge around at a pick and pull , maibe one for big rigs or farm equipment , hydraulic lines on those vehicles are about the same size .

just a little bit of comment on the gaugecluster , not sure of the lexan front is strong enough to hold the cauges without cracking over time , wat might work is making a support in the rear so the gauges are held in the rear as whell so the full weight doest hang ontoo the lexan ..... not sure if that makes sence to you the way i tell it but as deep as the gauges are mounted they want to pull the top of the lexan in and push the bottom out and i suspect that on a bumpy road the load will be a little to much for the plastic and it will crack

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

those clamps look nice , i think earls have simulair ones , you might even be able to make youre own if you have some of that aluminium left you used to make the spacers with .
it might allso pay of to scrounge around at a pick and pull , maibe one for big rigs or farm equipment , hydraulic lines on those vehicles are about the same size .

just a little bit of comment on the gaugecluster , not sure of the lexan front is strong enough to hold the cauges without cracking over time , wat might work is making a support in the rear so the gauges are held in the rear as whell so the full weight doest hang ontoo the lexan ..... not sure if that makes sence to you the way i tell it but as deep as the gauges are mounted they want to pull the top of the lexan in and push the bottom out and i suspect that on a bumpy road the load will be a little to much for the plastic and it will crack

Yes, the OE gauge 'face' (lexan?) is definitely not ideal for rigidity. If the panel is disassembled (but the gauges still installed in the panel), it is very flimsy. Assembled.... not too bad, but not ideal.

I have a couple of potential solutions. Option #1: make the front panel from a sheet of ~.250" aluminum. If I can get my buddies to get involved, I would really like to recess the gauges slightly @ the same time so they're not flush mounted. Con's = cost (materials plus buddies 'time'). Option #2: use the existing face & panel bond a thin sheet of steel/alum behind it to stiffen things up (I could then even open up the current holes allowing the counter-sink option I've considered w/the alum version). Pros: a) already have the panel bond adhesive avail; b) GF's family owns a precision sheetmetal co so I can get the steel for cheap; c) budget & easy.