Donz '65 SWB Stepper Budget Build...

[gimmy 64]

how does your compressor hold up to the angle grinder? I like the idea of the small grinding discs. I usually use a flap disc on a electric grinder

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by Jeff La

Good job on the fender

Thanx Man!

Originally Posted by gimmy 64

how does your compressor hold up to the angle grinder? I like the idea of the small grinding discs. I usually use a flap disc on a electric grinder

Have to take my time, I have a 60 gallon single stage compressor so I have to let it catch up occasionally... Helps to teach me patience, which I am learning is a plus when doing metalwork...
Posted via Mobile Device

[Ta2Don]

Not much accomplished on the stepper this weekend, did do some final welding on the fender patch, still got to do the grinding thing one more time, then it's on to primer...
The Grandson turned 5 Sunday, so it was party central at the house this weekend, got to live up to my Grandpa Mantra, Sugar em' up, send em' home!

[Ta2Don]

Another small update...
Finished grinding process on Fender Patch, happy with this attempt at a repair never tried before...
Hoping to use minimal filler, then Prime...
Will Update when I get that far...

[greg65]

Nice work Don. Looking good.

[da_bears_da1]

Looks good! Always nice to get the first one done.

[1963c-10]

Patch panel looks great

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by greg65

Nice work Don. Looking good.

Originally Posted by da_bears_da1

Looks good! Always nice to get the first one done.

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Patch panel looks great

Thanks Guys
Watching other builds and thanks to the encouraging words i finally dove off the deep end and attempted this type of repair...
Honestly had to question my sanity after a couple of moments, and a few instances of ...
Now to find the time amongst everyday life to get this Fender in Primer, another first, especially since I've never attempted body work...
Thank the Good Lord for Good Friends (with experience) and this board with it's wealth of info!!!

[Bomp]

Now the real fun begins.
Glad to see the progress.

[Jmorales3181]

Nice job Don! The other side will be a breeze
Posted via Mobile Device

[Dub_X]

Just ran through this thread, nice work so far. I also happened to notice a couple Missouri trucks you saw at the Power Tour. That blue stepside belongs to the brother of a friend of my dad's.

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Now the real fun begins.
Glad to see the progress.

Thanks Man! I really enjoy seeing the Roof Skin work you are doing...

Originally Posted by Jmorales3181

Nice job Don! The other side will be a breeze
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanx JMo, Luckily the other fender is in much better shape. Very little work to do on that one...

Originally Posted by Dub_X

Just ran through this thread, nice work so far. I also happened to notice a couple Missouri trucks you saw at the Power Tour. That blue stepside belongs to the brother of a friend of my dad's.

Thanks Dub_X That Blue Stepper was one of my Favz at the Tour... It and the Flat Black Fleetside both had newer Vortecs if I remember... Very popular upgrade that I've noticed out here and locally. There's a guy here locally with this 53 which sports a 5.3L Vortec, I did some Door Art design work for him, just waiting to see the design on his doors, here's a teaser pic...

[mullinax5630]

Subd.inspirational build

[Dub_X]

Yeah the blue stepside has an LS1, and the guy who owns it, his brother should have been there with his old Nova, same color blue. Has an LS1 and 6-Speed.

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by Dub_X

Yeah the blue stepside has an LS1, and the guy who owns it, his brother should have been there with his old Nova, same color blue. Has an LS1 and 6-Speed.

I remember a bunch of old Novas, and a handful of Blue ones... The only pic I have of one with an LS1 is a Station Wagon with an Alabama front plate. Very Clean...

[Dub_X]

If I had the gas money and something imo worth taking, I would have gone to the Power Tour.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Ta2Don

Another small update...
Finished grinding process on Fender Patch, happy with this attempt at a repair never tried before...
Hoping to use minimal filler, then Prime...
Will Update when I get that far...

Very nice work!!
Posted via Mobile Device

[Ta2Don]

Thanks Alan! Jumping into bodywork has been interesting to say the least,,.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jlsanborn]

Looks like a nice build, I'll sign on for the ride! The Boy and I are doing a 355 / NV3500 swap into his S10 next week (3.42) so I'll have a little feedback on that for ya. Really like the artwork you do too.

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Looks like a nice build, I'll sign on for the ride! The Boy and I are doing a 355 / NV3500 swap into his S10 next week (3.42) so I'll have a little feedback on that for ya. Really like the artwork you do too.

Thanks Man! Looking forward to getting through some bodywork and starting re-assembly
Posted via Mobile Device

[Ta2Don]

Small Update....
Had a friend deliver this Driveshaft earlier today, will possibly fit, if not it can be shortened alot cheaper than stretching the original....
Now I get to sandblast and paint, then new U-joints and the correct yoke for the 5 speed...


Here's a pic of the Patina I rock daily

[markeb01]

Nice results on the patch welding. When it gets to the primer stage one thing I’ve found to be a big labor savings is the use of U-Pol 2K primer:



http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/28/...r-%2831%29.htm

My first coat on the bare metal is always epoxy primer, even before any filler. Once I’m ready for the fill primer I use the U-Pol. Rather than spray it on, I apply it with either a small foam roller or a foam brush. I’ve done some pretty large sections with this technique. And in some areas I’ve built it up enough to avoid needing body filler:





It naturally doesn’t come out as smooth as spraying, but it’s going to get sanded down anyway. Brushing it on eliminates the need for masking everything else, which is a big plus when you’re working on something that is put together. And since all of the paint goes on the item instead of in the air and on the floor, brushing saves a lot of paint and keeps the aerosol fumes out of your lungs.

It is easy to apply, cures in about 10-15 minutes, and is the easiest sanding primer I’ve ever found. To keep from clogging the paper, rather than wet sand I use an air hose in my off hand to blow the paper continuously clean. And like other 2K primers there isn’t any shrinkage like with the old lacquer primers.

The first time I bought it I purchased a roll on kit, but since then I’ve found it easier to source the pieces locally:



http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=PRI

When I went looking for bedliner/undercoater I found the Raptor kit. Having the U-Pol name on it caused me to buy it without further investigation.

One minor point I also love about this European product is the can it comes in. Rather than the common design of all domestic cans, the version U-Pol uses opens very easily, and closes with hand pressure. It’s a much better design, but we’ll probably never see any American made products in it.

Keep up the good work!

[da_bears_da1]

Originally Posted by Ta2Don

Small Update....
Had a friend deliver this Driveshaft earlier today, will possibly fit, if not it can be shortened alot cheaper than stretching the original....
Now I get to sandblast and paint, then new U-joints and the correct yoke for the 5 speed...


Here's a pic of the Patina I rock daily

Good idea on the drive shaft. I had one made and spent way too much on it!!

Great front license plate on the DD. Go Bears!

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by markeb01

Nice results on the patch welding. When it gets to the primer stage one thing I’ve found to be a big labor savings is the use of U-Pol 2K primer:

My first coat on the bare metal is always epoxy primer, even before any filler. Once I’m ready for the fill primer I use the U-Pol. Rather than spray it on, I apply it with either a small foam roller or a foam brush. I’ve done some pretty large sections with this technique. And in some areas I’ve built it up enough to avoid needing body filler:

It naturally doesn’t come out as smooth as spraying, but it’s going to get sanded down anyway. Brushing it on eliminates the need for masking everything else, which is a big plus when you’re working on something that is put together. And since all of the paint goes on the item instead of in the air and on the floor, brushing saves a lot of paint and keeps the aerosol fumes out of your lungs.

It is easy to apply, cures in about 10-15 minutes, and is the easiest sanding primer I’ve ever found. To keep from clogging the paper, rather than wet sand I use an air hose in my off hand to blow the paper continuously clean. And like other 2K primers there isn’t any shrinkage like with the old lacquer primers.

The first time I bought it I purchased a roll on kit, but since then I’ve found it easier to source the pieces locally:

When I went looking for bedliner/undercoater I found the Raptor kit. Having the U-Pol name on it caused me to buy it without further investigation.

One minor point I also love about this European product is the can it comes in. Rather than the common design of all domestic cans, the version U-Pol uses opens very easily, and closes with hand pressure. It’s a much better design, but we’ll probably never see any American made products in it.

Keep up the good work!

Thanks Mark, When it comes to this bodywork stuff, I will take all the advice I can get... Hopefully i will be able to grab some this weekend... recently a friend of mine recommended the UPOL body filler...

Originally Posted by da_bears_da1

Good idea on the drive shaft. I had one made and spent way too much on it!!

Great front license plate on the DD. Go Bears!

BEAR DOWN CHICAGO BEARS!!!

When I checked into lengthening the original driveline 3" I was quoted $250, and to shorten one is $65... Called a friend who grew up with a mutual friend who now has a boneyard of mostly mid 80s to mid 90s Chevy Trucks... Long story short, I ended up spending $25 for a drive shaft that may work, or worse case scenario, may need to be shortened an inch. Either way $100 is much better than $250 or more...

And finally, here's one by "Cartoons" Artist George Trosley...

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[Ta2Don]

Not really a truck update, but picked up a shopping cart for free from a local store, no it is not stolen It's future finds it turning into a welding cart... Thanks Bomp for the idea!!!