CRGRS 66 – Winter Build Thread

[CRGRS 66]

To all who have served, I offer a heartfelt thank you.

God bless those before us who made the ultimate sacrifice for our liberty.

[CRGRS 66]

Going to be dismantling the bed soon, and just doing a little research. I understand that there are 2 welds on each side, one that is about an inch long and another about 4" long. I have easily located the shorter weld that needs to be cut, can anyone help me locate the longer weld?

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

Going to be dismantling the bed soon, and just doing a little research. I understand that there are 2 welds on each side, one that is about an inch long and another about 4" long. I have easily located the shorter weld that needs to be cut, can anyone help me locate the longer weld?

Craig, ask Martin, his bed is dismantled.

[4mulaSvaliant]

Great looking truck man! Consider me in for the log haul. Ill be a watchin'

[CRGRS 66]

Originally Posted by Grizz1963

Craig, ask Martin, his bed is dismantled.

Thanks Rian, by the way my wife made a funny face over your avatar picture

Originally Posted by 4mulaSvaliant

Great looking truck man! Consider me in for the log haul. Ill be a watchin'

Welcome aboard, and welcome to the Forum, what are you working on?

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

Thanks Rian, by the way my wife made a funny face over your avatar picture


Welcome aboard, and welcome to the Forum, what are you working on?

Craig, I hope it was an amused face rather than disgust.

Over here we pay around US $2.00 per liter for unleaded and a bit more for diesel.

So filling up a Fossil Fuel Gobbler like my truck, always "hurts". Would not trade it for a Honda or Nissan though.

[CRGRS 66]

Amused, confused, something like that... I said, he's a brit, whacky sense of humour....

Hey, while we are chatting, when I bring goods up from the US I bring them in through my company's forwarding company. I end up paying pennies on the dollar for freight duty brokerage. Maybe you could find a group in the UK that consolidates import shipments from the US, like an international forwarding company. Just a thought, maybe a little interweb searching for a company that offers such a service could relieve some if your pain in the cost of shipping.
Cheers!

[CRGRS 66]

There is a thread on this forum that is titled something like "I hate the PO of my truck because ...." I cannot complain about the PO of my truck, he did a pretty decent job of preserving this truck. I have just discovered what I believe was his biggest mistake, he covered the inner door panels with the same material that he recovered the seat with. The material retained water over the years, and caused what is probably the worst rust damage that I have encountered so far. Still can't complain about my PO.

[CRGRS 66]

The damage...

Why on earth would you cover up the original fawn beige/ white inner door panel. Oh well, it is pretty minor.... If I were to complain about anything it would be the holes cut in the doors for speakers... but that is easily fixed.

[Grizz1963]

Craig, are you dismantling the door completely?

I mean the door glass?

If so, please do a bit of detail, as I will be doing mine as well, am
Nd need to know the pitfalls.

[CRGRS 66]

Will do Rian

[TJ's Chevy]

Good luck on the bed and door work. Hope all goes well.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by CRGRS

I want to drive it. I want to drive it
every summer. That is the reason for the
thread title. Whatever I take on this winter,
my plan is to get it back on the road, and
enjoy it again next summer.

.Well, I figured I had better get over here and read your thread.
First thing that stood out to me in the first post is how you planned to do what could be done in a winter to get it back on the road by summer.
That has been my approach.
But as I go through your thread I see you stripping it to the frame. I laughed. But I commend you because you're doing it right.
Great progress!

[CRGRS 66]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

Good luck on the bed and door work. Hope all goes well.

thanks, my problem is that it is hard to find time to get at it

Originally Posted by LostMy65

.Well, I figured I had better get over here and read your thread.
First thing that stood out to me in the first post is how you planned to do what could be done in a winter to get it back on the road by summer.
That has been my approach.
But as I go through your thread I see you stripping it to the frame. I laughed. But I commend you because you're doing it right.
Great progress!

Thanks for posting, I will be glad that I went this route in the end, but I sure do miss driving it.

[61K10]

Craig-- you seam to have gone the same route as I in your resto. I am retired and know how long it took me and still not completely done. Your work looks better than mine if i do say so! great job so far as the tk is looking great.

Great tribute to your Mon & Dad also----------------Kimble

[CRGRS 66]

Originally Posted by 61K10

Craig-- you seam to have gone the same route as I in your resto. I am retired and know how long it took me and still not completely done. Your work looks better than mine if i do say so! great job so far as the tk is looking great.

Great tribute to your Mon & Dad also----------------Kimble

Thanks Kimble... long, long way for me to go, hope to be able to get more focused on the project over and after the holidays.

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by Grizz1963

Craig, are you dismantling the door completely?

I mean the door glass?

If so, please do a bit of detail, as I will be doing mine as well, am
Nd need to know the pitfalls.

Rian,
The door is only about 20 machine screws and it is as dismantled as you can get. They are very simple.
If you are going to take your doors off, though (and I wish I had remembered this before I did) be sure to permanently mark each hinge on door and frame. S

So far rehanging a door from scratch and trying to get it plumb sucks....

[Modges'66]

When I was getting ready to take my doors off I drilled an 1/8" hole thru the hinge & into the door, and also drilled an 1/8" hole thru the hinge & into the cab on every hinge and marked the hinges. This way, upon re-assembly, you can stick a 1/8" pin into the hole and tighten down the hinges!
This will get you very close....As long as your doors are adjusted good to start with!
you may still need to do some minor adjustment, but not even close to starting from scratch!

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

Rian,
The door is only about 20 machine screws and it is as dismantled as you can get. They are very simple.
If you are going to take your doors off, though (and I wish I had remembered this before I did) be sure to permanently mark each hinge on door and frame. S

So far rehanging a door from scratch and trying to get it plumb sucks....

Originally Posted by Modges'66

When I was getting ready to take my doors off I drilled an 1/8" hole thru the hinge & into the door, and also drilled an 1/8" hole thru the hinge & into the cab on every hinge and marked the hinges. This way, upon re-assembly, you can stick a 1/8" pin into the hole and tighten down the hinges!
This will get you very close....As long as your doors are adjusted good to start with!
you may still need to do some minor adjustment, but not even close to starting from scratch!

Genius.

I have ordered door pins as my doors are very saggy.

But still worth remembering your advice.

[Modges'66]

Rian,
Your doors may be saggy, but chances are that nobody has adjusted the hinges.
I would still drill them before removal, change the pins, then put them back on.
I bet that they will be darn close to perfect with the new pins...IMO

[Modges'66]

I am totally sorry Craig, Forgot who's thread I was posting to, I am looking at too many threads at the same time!
I need to pay more attention to what I am doing, and not have a cocktail at the same time! LOL!

[CRGRS 66]

No worries Modges, I was having a little chuckle as I was reading the posts, good info to share, share it here, share it there, it's all good.

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by Modges'66

I am totally sorry Craig, Forgot who's thread I was posting to, I am looking at too many threads at the same time!
I need to pay more attention to what I am doing, and not have a cocktail at the same time! LOL!

I personally never get too precious about threads I strt, after all, we all learn here from each other, this is ultimately a resource.

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

No worries Modges, I was having a little chuckle as I was reading the posts, good info to share, share it here, share it there, it's all good.

So would I be chuckling.

Originally Posted by Modges'66

Rian,
Your doors may be saggy, but chances are that nobody has adjusted the hinges.
I would still drill them before removal, change the pins, then put them back on.
I bet that they will be darn close to perfect with the new pins...IMO

Thanks for the advice.

I am sure you are right regarding previous adjustments.

[CRGRS 66]

Hey Guys
I have been MIA since, oh, about March...
The deck on the house we bought about a year ago was something I new needed to be replaced, there was an issue with the footings. About 16 feet out from the house the deck was about 9" higher than at the patio doors. Being attached to the house, it was causing stress to the building and during this past, very cold winter, those patio doors were binding, making it difficult to open/close.
I started dismantling the deck in March, and discovered the reason for the deck lifting. The moron who built it only went down 2 feet with his footings. Not only this, but he appeared to have set the 4x4's in the ground, and filled around them with cement... IDIOT!!!! This is Canada, footings must go down 4 feet, this is also not a fence.....
Here are a couple pictures to get you started.

[CRGRS 66]

Original deck was 16FT x 24FT, plus a raised extension (raised extension, that is funny... no?) approximately 10Ft x 10FT. My plan was to dismantle the deck gingerly in order to re-purpose as much of the structural lumber as possible. In the end I saved approx $1200 in doing this, the trade off was a lot of manual labor.