Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"

[First c10]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

It will sound great with a single, don't sweat the sound part too much, just run stock diameter pipes out of the headers or manifold to where they tie together, i don't know if there is a pre made collector out there or not.

Another option may be to find a dual in single out muffler, something to look into.

This is a dual 2.5 to a single 3" collector
Magnaflow collector

I don't know of any dual input with a single discharge mufflers off the top of my head anyways...

I want to run SS so I will need to get bends and pipe. other than the normal places to get exhaust stuff any recommendations on fitting and pipe? I was thinking about SS process piping for exhaust pipe .063 wall in 2.5" and .083 in 3"
This will also give me a reason to buy a TIG welder!!! Darn!

[First c10]

Magnaflow makes a singe/dual muffler that is reversible
anyone know anything about them?
not set on magnaflow but just checking their website for ideas...

magnaflow 13763 7" Round muffler

[First c10]

After doing a little research. There a few reversible mufflers on the market. I didn't know that.

Borla Pro xs

[swamp rat]

Sorry. Can't help you on the stainless pipe but i'm suresomeone on this forum can.

[First c10]

no problem...

Anyone use these guys???

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/

[DWilbur]

I have seen them in pictures but I don't know of anyone who has used them. I was looking at Summit this morning for a build you own kit. have not found one yet still looking.

[ryanroo]

There really isn't any need to run a .083 wall. That's a lot of extra thickness. It will be easier to weld though. Learning to tig weld on thin stainless will be fun! In a masochistic way... Haha

Burns stainless and Reid Washbon both carry stainless, as does Columbia river mandrel bends. I'm sure you can get pipe from any of them as well as your bends.

I run dual 2.5" into a single three inch pipe and muffler on my jeep. It's a big block and shows no sign of restriction. I like the single pipe sound. It's healthy and mean but not so poppy.

[2000Limited]

Originally Posted by First c10

This is a dual 2.5 to a single 3" collector
Magnaflow collector

I don't know of any dual input with a single discharge mufflers off the top of my head anyways...

I want to run SS so I will need to get bends and pipe. other than the normal places to get exhaust stuff any recommendations on fitting and pipe? I was thinking about SS process piping for exhaust pipe .063 wall in 2.5" and .083 in 3"
This will also give me a reason to buy a TIG welder!!! Darn!

When it comes to mufflers, it depends on what your looking for. If its just the sound, then Flowmasters are fine. If its performance along with the sound, the Magnaflows, Hooker Aero Chambers, Borla, or even Cherry Bomb all flow almost twice as much as Flowmasters do.

Very nice project, keep up the great work.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

There really isn't any need to run a .083 wall. That's a lot of extra thickness. It will be easier to weld though. Learning to tig weld on thin stainless will be fun! In a masochistic way... Haha

Burns stainless and Reid Washbon both carry stainless, as does Columbia river mandrel bends. I'm sure you can get pipe from any of them as well as your bends.

I run dual 2.5" into a single three inch pipe and muffler on my jeep. It's a big block and shows no sign of restriction. I like the single pipe sound. It's healthy and mean but not so poppy.

Thanks for comments. I will check them out.
What muffler are you running on the jeep? Have any video or a sound clip?

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 2000Limited

When it comes to mufflers, it depends on what your looking for. If its just the sound, then Flowmasters are fine. If its performance along with the sound, the Magnaflows, Hooker Aero Chambers, Borla, or even Cherry Bomb all flow almost twice as much as Flowmasters do.

Very nice project, keep up the great work.

Thanks for the comments. I will be checking them out via YouTube. See if I can hear a difference.
I asked my son what he wanted. He said nice and loud . Damn kids.

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by First c10

Thanks for comments. I will check them out.
What muffler are you running on the jeep? Have any video or a sound clip?

it has a thrush muffler on it. very similar in sound to a flowmaster. same general construction method and size as well.

i will try to get a video of it running.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

it has a thrush muffler on it. very similar in sound to a flowmaster. same general construction method and size as well.

i will try to get a video of it running.

Cool thank you!

[First c10]

Got a chance to work on the truck a little last night. started working on measuring the custom E brake cables. Since I have the Cadillac rear calipers and need some custom cable I figured I would just reroute the cables to one side and not have the looped intermediate cable.

[First c10]

Thought this was interesting. Does not look like it would completely seal off though. but for 100 bucks almost worth trying!!!

[DWilbur]

OOh them cut outs are cool but watch 0ut for Jonny Law. In California they are a big ticket.

[First c10]

wow so I talked to a shop about getting the sheet metal prepped and painted......OUCH!!!
I guess I have no idea what it takes to get a regular paint job......
When I was younger 4K was a great paint job, now ordinary is 10K?????

[cmabolt]

Ahhhhh, yup! Honestly the biggest pain in my arse with the entire build was paint and all the drama attached to that process. I had a virtually rust free truck. California and Nevada it's whole life. A little spot rust on the rockers inside the cab and that was it. Quotes I received for minor body work, strip to metal and paint one color inside and out....

First shop - $6K (was in this shop for 3 years till I pulled it)
Second shop - 15K (Laughed at him and shipped truck east)
Third shop - 10K just for bodywork no paint (never spoke to him again)
Fourth Shop - 6K (was in this shop for a little over a year. I pulled it)
Fifth shop - 4K (I buy the materials, he does rest. I assembled)

There were many in between shops as well. Do yourself a favor and find a guy who is retired or a small shop that needs your work. It won't be show quality, but you'll get what you pay for. I have found more and more that guys are going out on their own and do great work. You might not get the benefit of a spray booth but I have seen some nice home shop setups.

Just my experience. Not trying to be a downer. I just feel your pain!
Chris

[Nitis]

I'm sure you have plenty of options down there. And my guess is you want it done right but I don't think you're after a "show" truck at least not at this point in time. I'm not saying run to maaco by any means but find a guy.

[7dee2]

You know Maaco might just surprise you if you disassemble, strip, do all the metal repair and then hire a body man (experienced) for final prep. Shoot it in there giving them just a few prep hours to try and catch any last minute what ever issues. Pass on the super cheap budget paint and try and get something better researching the suggested paint or supplying something the painter is comfortable with.

I believe they could spray it (in a booth) and color sand to an acceptable level in a timely manner. They paint a lot of cars everyday so if the painter is any good chances are it will turn out.

That is probably the road I'll go down with my K30 build. I did use them many years ago on another truck project prior to sell and it worked out great.

[RedRoad]

HotRod did something similar to keep costs down.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nTZyhbHmcIs

Id do as much as the prep and repair as possible before sending it off for paint. Buying a decent compressor, HF DA sander, HF stud welder, and a small lincoln welder will cost less than having someone else do it and you will use the tools later.

[First c10]

Thanks guys for all the comments! I agree with all of you. I am really thinking about buying the paint stuff and building a paint booth I do have two 56 Chevys to build after. So I am sure I will use what I buy.
Redroad, I have all of what you listed except for the studgun. I plan to move the cab in the shop this weekend. After I install the front drive line and custom e brake cables. I will post pictures of the cables and sheetmetal. I know why o did the chassis first.....because that is what I know. Paint and body not so much.
I am going to try and do what I can. And pay someone to make sure the panels are straight and then get it painted one way or the other. A friend of mine that told me about paint cost said I need another hood. The 68 hood o have has a crease. He said 40 hours just to get it repaired. He said just get another one or a new one. Cowl induction???

Everything else I am good with. This body and paint is going to kill me!!! I hate to paint. No matter what it is.

[RedRoad]

Here is something I am going to use on a VW project Im working on that I think is closest to factory single stage paint.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/Automotive-...toration-Shop/

They will ship to CA not like the Summit Race paint which Ive seen in person that looks good (limited color selection) but not available in CA!

http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...g&autoview=SKU

[Nitis]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

You know Maaco might just surprise you if you disassemble, strip, do all the metal repair and then hire a body man (experienced) for final prep. Shoot it in there giving them just a few prep hours to try and catch any last minute what ever issues. Pass on the super cheap budget paint and try and get something better researching the suggested paint or supplying something the painter is comfortable with.

I believe they could spray it (in a booth) and color sand to an acceptable level in a timely manner. They paint a lot of cars everyday so if the painter is any good chances are it will turn out.

That is probably the road I'll go down with my K30 build. I did use them many years ago on another truck project prior to sell and it worked out great.

Yeah I was prolly a little loose with the maaco comment. My mother in law just had them shoot her Tahoe. I was skeptical because they didn't take anything off like the rear bumper or even the body mouldings but I can't find much wrong with it for $1200 and a 4 year warranty and that price included some dent and ding removal.

I actually agree that if you had your metal work done and we're confident in your body work I wouldn't hesitate to have a driver rig shot there especially in pieces. Plus they're turn around time is going to blow anyone away.

[First c10]

I forgot about all the paints they won't ship to CA. I may need a transfer forum member. Lol.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by Nitis

Yeah I was prolly a little loose with the maaco comment. My mother in law just had them shoot her Tahoe. I was skeptical because they didn't take anything off like the rear bumper or even the body mouldings but I can't find much wrong with it for $1200 and a 4 year warranty and that price included some dent and ding removal.

I actually agree that if you had your metal work done and we're confident in your body work I wouldn't hesitate to have a driver rig shot there especially in pieces. Plus they're turn around time is going to blow anyone away.

Hey Nitis. No worries. I know what you meant. I am sure most do.
Just like anything it's all in the prep. I am gong to work on the sheetmetal and keep my eye peeled.