1970 Med Olive Project

[Bennett68C10]

Awesome Job Mike, you made it look easy!

[MMcMasters]

Originally Posted by Jason7121

Looks great to me! Keep us posted.

Thanks Jason..Man your exhaust turned out incredible!

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Looking great Mike, I need to get back at it and catch back up to you. I lost some time these past couple weeks

Are you kidding?? You have more energy and get more done then any of us

Originally Posted by Lorne

Looking awesome Mike!

Thanks Lorne!, Sorry I didn't get back to you in time last night

Originally Posted by Metaldoc

That's a good idea, I did mine like that and the road noise is a lot quieter

Thank you sir...I'm going to do a bunch of sound deadening inside of the cab as well

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

Awesome Job Mike, you made it look easy!

I'm a hack Keith but thanks for the kind words brother!

[sprint_9]

Wow, that firewall is awesome.

[MMcMasters]

I know it doesn't look like it but this was a pile of work. I can't begin to explain how happy I am that this firewall project is done. Tomorrow I start mocking up the Vintage Air and get the high hump installed.

[builtbyKane]

That looks fantastic. Great job

[MMcMasters]

Originally Posted by sprint_9

Wow, that firewall is awesome.

Originally Posted by builtbyKane

That looks fantastic. Great job

Thanks fellas!

[MMcMasters]

Today I started mocking up my Vintage Air. I was accidentally sent a kit for a non a/c truck so I am missing a few parts. Travis at AZ Pro is an awesome dude. I left a voice message for them hoping to get a call Monday morning but Travis got back with me on Saturday and said he would have the parts coming first thing Monday morning. They have incredible customer service!

I got the evaporator mounted under the dash and figured out where I want to mount my bulkhead. Then I pulled it back out so I can put my sound deadener in. I also wanted to get the condenser and dryer mounted so I went ahead and mounted the core support and my Entropy radiator.




Then I rolled it outside and my boy took a couple pictures.




When I just looked at this picture, I thought I screwed up the fins on the front of the radiator. I just went outside and looked at it and the fins aren't damaged or folded over. I was very careful when I put it in, I have no idea why it looks damaged in this picture. Weird



I'm hoping to have my dynamat and missing vintage air parts by mid week.

[Jason7121]

Looks super detailed. How much dynamat did you order I'm getting ready to do mine also

[MMcMasters]

Jason, I'm ordering from summit tomorrow. 60 sq ft should do it I think

[builtbyKane]

Funny I goofed and ordered an ac truck vintage air unit only to find my parts cab was non air so missing parts as well. Be sure to post pictures of the under dash ac mounts for the rest of us.

[Jason7121]

Perfect thanks Mike

[GR8-68]

Wow !! That firewall looks superb Mike, really nice work.

[Bennett68C10]

Looks awesome Mike, what did you use to paint the firewall?

[MMcMasters]

Originally Posted by builtbyKane

Be sure to post pictures of the under dash ac mounts for the rest of us.

I will do that

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Wow !! That firewall looks superb Mike, really nice work.

Thanks Larry!

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

Looks awesome Mike, what did you use to paint the firewall?

It's all rattle can man. Dupli-color's high build primer, then Dupli-color's primer sealer then the black is all Eastwood's under hood black. I love the Eastwood stuff for doing engine compartments. It has the right sheen and is pretty durable.

[GR8-68]

I have a quick question, I am wanting to add the same master cylinder to my 68. Can you share where you purchased it, I looked on ebay but seen the 1 1/8" bore which I believe is correct but want to be sure as there is so many options. Also are you using the stock actuator rod with this ? Thanks

[MMcMasters]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

I have a quick question, I am wanting to add the same master cylinder to my 68. Can you share where you purchased it, I looked on ebay but seen the 1 1/8" bore which I believe is correct but want to be sure as there is so many options. Also are you using the stock actuator rod with this ? Thanks

Larry,

If you plan to run manual brakes like I am then you will want a 7/8' bore. Some guys go with a 15/16" with manual but I think the 7/8" gives the best feel. The 15/16" feels soft to me.

I got everything from Summit

7/8" Master cylinder- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...9-bk/overview/

Proportional valve- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...1179/overview/

If you are going power brakes (vacuum) I would use a 1" bore and if you go with hydroboost then that 1 1/8" would be a good choice. These are all my opinion from my personal experience and you may get differing opinions from other people.

[GR8-68]

Thanks so much for the info Mike, I will order mine from Summit also. Yes I had planned to run manual brakes, but there is just so many different things out there without ample knowledge sometimes it can be hard to see what you really need.

[69short]

Originally Posted by MMcMasters

Larry,

If you plan to run manual brakes like I am then you will want a 7/8' bore. Some guys go with a 15/16" with manual but I think the 7/8" gives the best feel. The 15/16" feels soft to me.

I got everything from Summit

7/8" Master cylinder- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...9-bk/overview/

Proportional valve- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...1179/overview/

If you are going power brakes (vacuum) I would use a 1" bore and if you go with hydroboost then that 1 1/8" would be a good choice. These are all my opinion from my personal experience and you may get differing opinions from other people.

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Thanks so much for the info Mike, I will order mine from Summit also. Yes I had planned to run manual brakes, but there is just so many different things out there without ample knowledge sometimes it can be hard to see what you really need.

I have never driven with manual brakes. Can i ask what the benefit is? I'll be doing my brakes soon and haven't decided between manual or power. I'm just running wilwood d52 calipers, nothing fancy.

[MMcMasters]

Justin,

I will give you what I like about them personally. A properly designed manual system will stop just as good as a vacuum or hydraulic assisted system, in some cases it just requires a little more leg effort. If you get the proper bore size on the master cylinder, have a good caliper/rotor and have the proper pedal ratio, manual is great. It is nothing like the crappy manual drum systems we all remember from back in our younger days.

I usually build and run engines in my street cars that are not friendly with vacuum assisted brakes. Camshafts with large .050 duration numbers and tight LSA's generally don't make enough vacuum for a vacuum assisted system to work very well. You end up with a very hard pedal and poor performance.

Lastly, while hydraboost systems work great in any application, I don't care for how they look and how much real estate they take up.

[GR8-68]

Mike's Q&A today I am also running D52's on the front and the 4 piston calipers on the rear. I am in the thought of why clean up the firewall and then add a big ugly booster I have manual steering and brakes, both of which I am fine with

So which cam am I needing to run with my sniper manifold and FI, pretty much a stock bottom end but may upgrade if need be

[MMcMasters]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Mike's Q&A today So which cam am I needing to run with my sniper manifold and FI, pretty much a stock bottom end but may upgrade if need be

Man there are endless options. Try Tooley, Tick or Texas speed and give them what you have for gear ratio, trans and what you want out of it. They are all three reputable companies in the LS world. I went with One of Brian Tooleys stage 2 LS3 cams. It's 225/238 @.050 .612/.585 on a 113LSA . It's not too big and it should have a fairly healthy idle and will make great power. I also went with a 3400 Circle D converter.

[GR8-68]

I am running a small block, old school

[MMcMasters]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

I am running a small block, old school

Well in that case I would call Chris Straub at Straub Industries. His hydraulic roller series have a killer idle and make great low end mid range power. I built a couple 406's recently, one for me and one for a buddy, and both were very healthy. Here is a video mine on the run stand. Idle rpm is at 900 and sounds awesome to me.http://vid2.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps2680f0df.mp4

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by MMcMasters

It's all rattle can man. Dupli-color's high build primer, then Dupli-color's primer sealer then the black is all Eastwood's under hood black. I love the Eastwood stuff for doing engine compartments. It has the right sheen and is pretty durable.

Exactly what I wanted to hear, I plan on doing a similar thing to mine!

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by MMcMasters

Well in that case I would call Chris Straub at Straub Industries. His hydraulic roller series have a killer idle and make great low end mid range power. I built a couple 406's recently, one for me and one for a buddy, and both were very healthy. Here is a video mine on the run stand. Idle rpm is at 900 and sounds awesome to me.http://vid2.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps2680f0df.mp4

That definitely sounds good and where I exactly want mine to be, nothing like that sbc thumping on your chest