57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[joedoh]

nice welds! I would love a TIG, looks like you got the hang of it

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

What is that stuff? I like it, may put it in mine.

Honestly Im not sure.

It sort of looks like thin carpet/matt thats been flipped and glued. Then spray painted black. Ill try and pay more attention if I can give you a better idea.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

nice welds! I would love a TIG, looks like you got the hang of it

Thanks.
I really enjoyed learning TIG welding as part of all of this and can mostly run an OK bead.
TIG is a whole another animal. But its even more fun. Stainless is the most fun .... but backpurging is an issue as Im not really set up for it which means a seperate tank or a dual feed regulator.

The machine is awesome for the price. ID recommend.

https://ahpwelds.com/product/ahp-alp...01xd-pre-order

[FAKKY]

Can someone lnnk me to a good thread where someone documented the front clip sheet metal (remove and/or install) .......

I marked my pieces .... but still not 100% on alignment and what needs to be cutout based on new IFS.

[FAKKY]

Well .... the $50 dollar steering coupler I bought a year ago isn't going to work.

[FAKKY]

Think I'll need to change with 2x u-joints .... one to push away from the headers towards frame and one back in.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-DD-to-3-4...pe!33708!US!-1

or

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-3-4-DD-...oAAOSwnCxasyEs


and

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-DD-X-3-...ss!33708!US!-1

[FAKKY]

Cleaning up the inner fenders for some por15.

How do the fenders attach to the outer firewall area ??




Looks like staples or something ?

So guessing best way is just small stainless or painted bolts/nuts and drilled ?

[dsraven]

the fenders bolt to the cowl on each side at the rear. the front ends have fender extensions which the inner fenders wrap around and bolt up to there. there is a couple of bolts at the top of the rad support on each side which attaches to the fenders. there is a cross bar that goes below the grille as well and bolts to the inner fenders at the front lower part. the inner fenders bolt to the tops of the fenders and there is also an L bracket on the lower part of the firewall that uses a rubber bushing in the inner fender and they bolt up there. the staples are to hold the rubber edge seal that keeps road dirt out of the engine bay and keeps any metal to metal contact from happening should there be a problem with body flex over a speed bump or side hill or if the rad support bushings get so bad things move around a lot.

[FAKKY]

Thanks DSRAVEN.

I did a little mock mockup on the table out the back and with what you said that made more sense. Goign to need to find out the radiator support bolt sizes and make some spacers. Think that stuff is long gone.

https://www.ebay.com/i/152395180513?chn=ps

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Honestly Im not sure.

It sort of looks like thin carpet/matt thats been flipped and glued. Then spray painted black. Ill try and pay more attention if I can give you a better idea.

Thanks!

[FAKKY]

So .... been literally fighting this for 2 days. Mixture of seperate DD shaft size and differnt rotations of the ujoints. Anyone got any tips ?



Have a regular u joint at the R&P end.
Have a 1"=>34/DD double ujoint at the steering end to get around the header tube.

Then I have an extra regular ujoint and a another double ujoint. I have 2 DD supports as well.

Problem is every time it rotates it moves enough to bind either on the nuts like near the upper control arm ...... or somewhere else. I ordered another 18" 3/4 DD to see if I can bypass 1 joint .... but there are 2 turns.

1 at the steering side to get around the 1st header and then swing back.
1 at the steering side which wants to go direct under the 1st header at its end also ... so have to go around that. Dont see how to go higher or lower.

[MiraclePieCo]

Speedway sells steering u-joints that are much smaller diameter than those - would that help give you a straighter shot?

Otherwise you may have to modify those headers.

Another option is to relocate the base of the steering column closer to the cowl.

Slight concern that headers will boil the grease out of those bearings that close.

[FAKKY]

Thanks Miraclepie.
Yes - I was planning on probably putting heat wrap on the headers anywhere where there is close to contact with the ujoint if I have to.
I think part of problem is I need to try a straighter run ..... and lose a joint.

Just rally struggling with the double joints as the sort of flex in the middle (as they can) if everything is not 100% lined up and supported. So almost impossible to mock up. Literally been at this for 4-5 hours each day yesterday and today. Ready to push it off the edge of the pier.

[FAKKY]

I know its hard to see from a pic ...
so heres a video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LI6MN8g44dA

I think clearance is almost ok - might need to shave a few things ... and exghuast wrap on l;ast header tube.

BUt the "flop" of the double joints. It could be just because IM trying to hold it ... but heck ... no way to mock up without welding it in. And wouldnt think there be that much resistance I couldnt hold it (Its clamped at bottom).

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

BUt the "flop" of the double joints. It could be just because IM trying to hold it ... but heck ... no way to mock up without welding it in. And wouldnt think there be that much resistance I couldnt hold it (Its clamped at bottom).

I was going to suggest eliminating the center joint, but I see you did that in the video. U-joints are in proper phase, but there's still too much operating angle in the system. Maybe time to take a Sawzall to those headers, kinda like this guy did:

[FAKKY]

So .... been mucking around with this a bit. I got it much better and have an idea to make it work - guess only way to know for sure is to do it.

1st major problem is I had the steering shaft too far into the backside of ujoint. That made it bind. It was only "just " hitting ..... but enough to prevent enough rotation ... therefore giving more wobble when it contacted.

2nd is -- as its a double ujoint it sort of wants to expand/contract for lack of a better word as it rotates. With the support bearing in middle of shaft allows it to "slide". Just enough to create a small wobble/bind.

I need to get the support bearing right against the backside of the ujoint .... or even better probably one on each backside .... on the topside....

[FAKKY]

Well.. I think what I said would have worked - but I didnt have a 3rd support heim and couldn't buy locally.

So I took it all apart and tried to simplify by doing a longer run with just the DD. Its tight clearance and the angle is probably as far as I would want to go with a single joint (middle black one) ..... but it doesnt bind and works well.

talk about 2 days of frustration ......
I think the 1st joint should have been just a single ujoint of the steering and THEN done a double ujoint back ..... bur man ..... who knows .... I had this think in every which orientation but back twice on sunday.



Thanks MiraclePie.

[FAKKY]

Note to self.

1)Never ever (ever) do brakes again after the engine is in the truck.
2) always do a mockup with wire first just like you read ....

[FAKKY]

ICT billet AC relocation. Nice kit.

[dsraven]

wow, that is some kinda steering shaft linkage you have going there. how much outta whack is a straight run from the column to the rack input? have you tried a broom handle or something like that to see if you can get away without all those joints? more joints = more trouble. rotate the rack possibly? different headers possibly?
can you remove the headers and mock up a steering shaft that works then see what kinda headers you could use instead of those ones possibly?
the center shaft need to have support at each end to keep the other shafts from allowing it to move like that.
what is the rack from? possibly a different option there for angle of the input?
like said previously, a shorter column would bring the rear upward and possibly allow the shaft some more room around the headers. you could easily try mocking it up by removing the shaft from the column and moving it up some at the rear, inline with the column.
I think what you have is going to be prone to flopping/binding as things wear a bit. could spell catastrophe at highway speeds.

[FAKKY]

Thx dsraven.
For not I have pulled the steering linkage out ...... not sure which pic you were referring too ... but yeah the multitude of joints made it hard to control rotation.

Right now I have it where its basically similar to #292. The 1 double ujoint at the stereing column side, 1 ujoint at the middle and 1 at steering rack. With the right support bearings around the middle ujoint ..... it rotates free and clear of all suspension travel.

Its a dodge dakota IFS - so the front rack is from one of those and bought it as part of the original kit. I don't love the fitment (of the RA&P - rest is good). ...... but assumed there was nothing better.

I'll be re-circling on that effort when I weld everything into place. Make sure to loop back as appreciate any concerns especially safety ec.

[dsraven]

not sure of what your rack looks like and it's mounts but possibly you could rotate the rack some to line up the shafts better on the column. before you start that support the tie rods with some sort of jig so their relationship with the steering spindles can't change. possibly some L brackets tacked to the cross member and some hose clamps attaching the tie rods to the brackets would keep the tie rods in place so the rack could be rotated. then loosen or remove the rack mounts and rotate the rack to see if things work better. lots of guys have notched the cross members on trucks to accommodate a steering rack or line up a column. a few pics of that area would be good as well, maybe somebody would have an idea. basically, you need to get rid of all the u joints you can in order to make the system work. otherwise you need to support the intermediate shafts at both ends of their shafts so they become a steady point and can't allow the system to start the "flop". otherwise possibly pull the column into the cab to make a longer run for the first shaft and also raise the start point of that shaft at the rear. if you find that could work then you may need a shorter column or rewrk the column you have to be shorter.

[joedoh]

a double joint is used for angles over a certain amount, you need a standard u joint at the column. it looks like you are using it as a joggle to clear the header. i dont like doubles except on extreme angles over 30

I dont envy your setup, it looks like you are threading the needle with the only places you can put shafts through. dont be afraid to go further out over the control arm to get a straighter shot to the rack.

[dsraven]

how about pulling the column into the cab and try the angles with the shorter stub protruding into the engine bay. it may bring the cab end up so you can clear the headers. if it works then the shorter column may be easier than doing all the shafts and bearings and other spendy stuff. you may be able to shorten the column if required, ort sell it and get one thats a bit shorter.

[FAKKY]

ok - today was a bad day - truck wise.

Took a couple months of - just out of a mix of things really - life.
I spent all day trying to relearn tig welding ..... dealing with 15mph+ winds..... multiple burns and cuts.

Decided to tackle the steering again. I know the routing in the pics below is the only route I can go angle wise. I thought if I got the steering shaft support right behind the single ujoint in middle .... then it couldnt shift back and impact the double ujoint. Well i tried and not sure what it was .... heat pulling the metal, bad fitup, something else .... I ended up with it around 1/4" off the back of that joint once tight .... which mean the ehol shaft could move back towards column same amount .... and "crimp" up the double ujoint.

PIcs.


This is good routing - clears EVERYTHING by 1/4 inch or more.


Here after tack welding and tightening .... the support is 1/4" too far back behind joint backside .... so shaft can move....

results in .....



Look at top double ujoint at column 'now its kinked and difficult to turn' dangerous.

I think i have to throw away the double joint off the steering column like Joedoh said above and go with a single 1" to 3/4 DD .......regular joint.

But its driving me crazy - cant think how other poeple would run the double off the column - as ANY movement -- in the shaft or column itself could result in the same deal.

I need a beer.