Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed - Page 12 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

88Stanger · 08-29-2020, 11:08 AM

Ok so I got the cab braced up and now I have started the cab floor replacement. here are some pics along the way... Ok seems to be an issue uploading pics... I will try in a few...

88Stanger · 08-30-2020, 08:54 AM

pics

88Stanger · 08-30-2020, 08:56 AM

few more with the new panels going in....

88Stanger · 08-30-2020, 08:56 AM

couple more

**pdxhall** · 08-30-2020, 11:51 AM

Nice job on the patching.

88Stanger · 08-31-2020, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdxhall

Nice job on the patching.

Thank you Sir! To crazy, i just posted on your thread about reading your entire thread, just now!!
I am learning this "patching" thing. I have done some minor stuff on my "69, but this one I am taking more time and no short cuts if i can avoid them. Do it right the first time (within my abilities). More pics to come...

88Stanger · 09-13-2020, 10:56 AM

Well outside the smoke from the devastating fires is just unreal but I managed to do a little work on the truck this weekend so far....
Got a bunch of parts for the truck loaded into the new Old Hickory Shed

88Stanger · 09-13-2020, 11:01 AM

Ok now onto the truck progress...
So i am working to get the lower cab area completed. I test fit the door and all seem good except the new lower rocker seems to be a bit too long, like 1/8" to 3/16". You can see it in the photos. When i hang the door it seems to be really good, except for this part. I am struggling with cutting the lower panel in half and then welding it back, but that may be just the amount that needs to be removed to fit right.
Suggestions?

88Stanger · 09-13-2020, 03:40 PM

Ok, so after test fitting the old removed plate the new one is good, i just had to "massage" it in place. It is not welded in place yet, just test fitting for now. Fits good, door gaps are decent (more work on them later) but one small issue on the back inside edge of the new cab panel, the new door is just rubbing a small bit. I tried moving the dame door hinges till i was blue in the face. To get door gaps good, it still hits, so i think i need to just do a bit of "massaging" to that one area, ie. cut and lower that section just a bit. Comments?
(see pic with black wore off)

SCOTI · 09-13-2020, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Ok, so after test fitting the old removed plate the new one is good, i just had to "massage" it in place. It is not welded in place yet, just test fitting for now. Fits good, door gaps are decent (more work on them later) but one small issue on the back inside edge of the new cab panel, the new door is just rubbing a small bit. I tried moving the dame door hinges till i was blue in the face. To get door gaps good, it still hits, so i think i need to just do a bit of "massaging" to that one area, ie. cut and lower that section just a bit. Comments?
(see pic with black wore off)

If exterior visual door gaps look good to you, massage the inner portion as needed.

88Stanger · 09-14-2020, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

If exterior visual door gaps look good to you, massage the inner portion as needed.

LOL So after thinking on this and well taking another shot at alignment, i was able to get the door to fall closed easy, and after i weld everything up and get it all set up right, i should be good.
Thanks for the comment, it made me take another look and tada, it should be good!

SCOTI · 09-14-2020, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

LOL So after thinking on this and well taking another shot at alignment, i was able to get the door to fall closed easy, and after i weld everything up and get it all set up right, i should be good.
Thanks for the comment, it made me take another look and tada, it should be good!

Excellent. Next . . ....

**Captainfab** · 09-14-2020, 09:41 PM

If the door ends up hitting again, I think I would modify the door instead of the rocker.

SkinnyG · 09-14-2020, 09:52 PM

Checking in on your progress.

Man, I hate doing bodywork.

88Stanger · 09-15-2020, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If the door ends up hitting again, I think I would modify the door instead of the rocker.

Ok, good idea Captainfab. I was so focused on the new panel, never really thought about the new door.
I am hoping that after I get all the panels welded into place and set up, that this issue of just barely hitting the door goes away. LOL BUT if not i will look at altering that edge of the door. It is so slight.... that is why I think it is just a small adjustment with the new hinges.

88Stanger · 09-15-2020, 11:12 AM

I will say that the new panel that is under this cab door panel, the one with the straight down flat metal that is spot welded to the very bottom of this cab door panel is 1 - not long enough, 2 - needs to be bent towards the outside of the cab, just so i can spot weld the two together.

88Stanger · 09-15-2020, 06:31 PM

Well, I have made the decision that there is no way i can get all the cab body work done and in primer before weather gets too cold, so.. I just decided to get a mini-split for the shop. I have a very large window AC unit now that works ok, but its the heat that kills me. I use propane heat now and i DO NOT LIKE IT. Its a "wet" heat and the fumes are horrible, so.... 30,000 BTU, 18 Seer 240V mini-split is on the way. Sucks, but for under $1,800.00 for all, including electrical ran for it (i do install) its worth it. Also, found a really cool youtube of a guy who built a 3 bay pre filter that mounts above the main inside blower unit. This will not only protect the unit but me from bad fumes and dust. Built out of plywood and uses paper style 20"x20" filters.

Paul Y · 09-18-2020, 09:50 AM

.....

Paul Y · 09-18-2020, 10:10 AM

A lot of progress since I last checked in.

Aaaannndddd...my brace turned up yesterday, now only the 500 mile round trip to pick it up....

Thanks again for giving me the confidence to go ahead with the purchase, hopefully this will be the motivation I need to start pushing things along before it starts to get cold.

My answer to the cold is a few extra layers and a space heater! Mind you I have just invested in a wood burner for the garage as, like you, don't like the damp heat that the diesel gives.

Onwards!!!

P.

**pdxhall** · 09-18-2020, 12:19 PM

How are you liking the smaller mig wire? I've been using .023 for almost all of my panel work.

88Stanger · 09-21-2020, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdxhall

How are you liking the smaller mig wire? I've been using .023 for almost all of my panel work.

I really like the smaller wire. I have alot less burn through. Only time it sucks is when i am filling any kind of "gap"

SkinnyG · 09-21-2020, 10:07 PM

Are you using a copper backer to fill "gap"?

I use 0.023" for everything; I get finer wire feed control.

88Stanger · 09-22-2020, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Are you using a copper backer to fill "gap"?

I use 0.023" for everything; I get finer wire feed control.

Well up to the other day... no... now yes where i can. Crazy how that works.

**pdxhall** · 09-22-2020, 11:11 AM

I try to avoid large gaps but when I can I use a copper backer. careful trimming and make sure you have good metal. This steel is thin enough already so any pitting will greatly reduce blowing through

88Stanger · 09-22-2020, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdxhall

I try to avoid large gaps but when I can I use a copper backer. careful trimming and make sure you have good metal. This steel is thin enough already so any pitting will greatly reduce blowing through

Oh so true. Sometimes i must learn the hard way... lol and i so have.... I will be very honest here and if anyone reads this and is thinking about doing this kind of work/restoration, DO NOT HURRY!!! Honestly, the hardest thing i have had to understand and learn is to not hurry or say, "it will be ok that way", or "its good enough". Take your time, do it right, in the end you will be so happy you do!! Instant gratification only means headaches later!!
I have learned so much from so many on here, to many to honestly name, but one thing i have learned from just about all of them, take your time.

08-29-2020, 11:08 AM	#276
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,654	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Ok so I got the cab braced up and now I have started the cab floor replacement. here are some pics along the way... Ok seems to be an issue uploading pics... I will try in a few...

08-30-2020, 08:54 AM	#277
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,654	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed pics Attached Images

08-30-2020, 08:56 AM	#278
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,654	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed few more with the new panels going in.... Attached Images

08-30-2020, 08:56 AM	#279
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,654	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed couple more Attached Images

08-30-2020, 11:51 AM	#280
pdxhall Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 2,084	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Nice job on the patching. __________________ Sanity'66 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=515110 Long bed, Fleetside, Small back window I've Done So Much, With So Little, For So Long, That Now I Can Do Anything With Nothing.

09-13-2020, 10:56 AM	#282
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,654	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Well outside the smoke from the devastating fires is just unreal but I managed to do a little work on the truck this weekend so far.... Got a bunch of parts for the truck loaded into the new Old Hickory Shed Attached Images

09-13-2020, 11:01 AM	#283
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,654	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Ok now onto the truck progress... So i am working to get the lower cab area completed. I test fit the door and all seem good except the new lower rocker seems to be a bit too long, like 1/8" to 3/16". You can see it in the photos. When i hang the door it seems to be really good, except for this part. I am struggling with cutting the lower panel in half and then welding it back, but that may be just the amount that needs to be removed to fit right. Suggestions? Attached Images

09-13-2020, 03:40 PM	#284
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,654	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Ok, so after test fitting the old removed plate the new one is good, i just had to "massage" it in place. It is not welded in place yet, just test fitting for now. Fits good, door gaps are decent (more work on them later) but one small issue on the back inside edge of the new cab panel, the new door is just rubbing a small bit. I tried moving the dame door hinges till i was blue in the face. To get door gaps good, it still hits, so i think i need to just do a bit of "massaging" to that one area, ie. cut and lower that section just a bit. Comments? (see pic with black wore off) Attached Images

09-14-2020, 09:41 PM	#288
Captainfab 60-66 Nut Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho Posts: 23,252	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed If the door ends up hitting again, I think I would modify the door instead of the rocker. __________________ Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE

09-14-2020, 09:52 PM	#289
SkinnyG Registered User Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Beautiful BC, Canada, eh?! Posts: 2,265	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Checking in on your progress. Man, I hate doing bodywork. __________________ 1961 Apache: "Grabber Orange" Shortboxed, pancake, step-notch, air-ride, turbo, LS 1977 Silverado: Shortboxed & dropped, potato-potato V8 Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint): The ultimate engine swap: 5.7L in a 1.0L bag Lotus Super 7 Replica: Scratch-built street-legal rollerskate

09-15-2020, 11:12 AM	#291
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,654	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed I will say that the new panel that is under this cab door panel, the one with the straight down flat metal that is spot welded to the very bottom of this cab door panel is 1 - not long enough, 2 - needs to be bent towards the outside of the cab, just so i can spot weld the two together.

09-15-2020, 06:31 PM	#292
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,654	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Well, I have made the decision that there is no way i can get all the cab body work done and in primer before weather gets too cold, so.. I just decided to get a mini-split for the shop. I have a very large window AC unit now that works ok, but its the heat that kills me. I use propane heat now and i DO NOT LIKE IT. Its a "wet" heat and the fumes are horrible, so.... 30,000 BTU, 18 Seer 240V mini-split is on the way. Sucks, but for under $1,800.00 for all, including electrical ran for it (i do install) its worth it. Also, found a really cool youtube of a guy who built a 3 bay pre filter that mounts above the main inside blower unit. This will not only protect the unit but me from bad fumes and dust. Built out of plywood and uses paper style 20"x20" filters.

09-18-2020, 09:50 AM	#293
Paul Y Registered User Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Essex Posts: 949	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed ..... __________________ Woody's Build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=658621 If it goes wrong, I blame the Internet... Last edited by Paul Y; 09-18-2020 at 10:12 AM.

09-18-2020, 10:10 AM	#294
Paul Y Registered User Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Essex Posts: 949	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed A lot of progress since I last checked in. Aaaannndddd...my brace turned up yesterday, now only the 500 mile round trip to pick it up.... Thanks again for giving me the confidence to go ahead with the purchase, hopefully this will be the motivation I need to start pushing things along before it starts to get cold. My answer to the cold is a few extra layers and a space heater! Mind you I have just invested in a wood burner for the garage as, like you, don't like the damp heat that the diesel gives. Onwards!!! P. __________________ Woody's Build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=658621 If it goes wrong, I blame the Internet...

09-18-2020, 12:19 PM	#295
pdxhall Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 2,084	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed How are you liking the smaller mig wire? I've been using .023 for almost all of my panel work. __________________ Sanity'66 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=515110 Long bed, Fleetside, Small back window I've Done So Much, With So Little, For So Long, That Now I Can Do Anything With Nothing.



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09-21-2020, 10:07 PM	#297
SkinnyG Registered User Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Beautiful BC, Canada, eh?! Posts: 2,265	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Are you using a copper backer to fill "gap"? I use 0.023" for everything; I get finer wire feed control. __________________ 1961 Apache: "Grabber Orange" Shortboxed, pancake, step-notch, air-ride, turbo, LS 1977 Silverado: Shortboxed & dropped, potato-potato V8 Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint): The ultimate engine swap: 5.7L in a 1.0L bag Lotus Super 7 Replica: Scratch-built street-legal rollerskate

09-22-2020, 11:11 AM	#299
pdxhall Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 2,084	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed I try to avoid large gaps but when I can I use a copper backer. careful trimming and make sure you have good metal. This steel is thin enough already so any pitting will greatly reduce blowing through __________________ Sanity'66 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=515110 Long bed, Fleetside, Small back window I've Done So Much, With So Little, For So Long, That Now I Can Do Anything With Nothing.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.