Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

SPOTCHECK Magnaflux Step 3.

Step 3 is basically repeat Step 1. spray the cleaner (Blue Label) on a rag (not directly on part) and wipe the part clean

we did it before, so we can do it again

[Gregski]

SPOTCHECK Magnaflux Step 4.

spray the developer (Yellow Label) on the part

this white stuff should dry in 10 minutes

and I guess we are supposed to look for red spots / marks resemblin' cracks

[Gregski]

Waiting... some more

[Gregski]

OK, honestly I don't know what the heck just happened, I think the red stuff never really dried even after waiting 30 minutes, and I think I could have done a more better job of wiping it off before shooting the white stuff, here is what it looked like after the white stuff did dry

I'll let you draw your own conclusions but I think this process may be worthy of a Mulligan

[enaberif]

I see lots of cracks like a plumber

[Valarius_Starchaser]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtJTkrgvt2c

little use video I found

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Valarius_Starchaser

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtJTkrgvt2c

little use video I found

thanks, but are you saying there is something wrong with this one, LOL

Цветные пенетранты Magnaflux серии Spotcheck

[Gregski]

GOOD NEWS / BAD NEWS

Fellas you may wanna pull up a chair for this because I am about to drop some knowledge on you... ha ha that you may find useful and that could save you some moneys

[Gregski]

GOOD NEWS - The new replacement driver side Vortec head appears to be good, no cracks!

BAD NEWS - The passenger side Vortec head that I thought was good actually has three cracks in it.

But get this, this is where it gets interesting. I did not find those cracks because of the Magnaflux product but despite of it.

I was cleaning all the white powder off, getting ready to retest using the Magnaflux stuff, when I stumbled upon a tool that helped me find the cracks, check it out. Best part is I got this tool from Harbor Freight for FREE, as you might recognize it!

The three cracks are:

1. between the #2 exhaust and intake seats

2. at almost 1:00 o'clock in the #4 exhaust seat

3. right after 11:00 o'clock in the #6 exhaust seat

[Gregski]

So just use some brake cleaner and paper towels to wipe the seats off real good, then get a flashlight and get really close to the head and especially while it is still wet from the solvent you will see the cracks, no Magnaflux needed. If I had to do it again I would not waste my money on it.

[Gregski]

the other thing I learned is how to use this Magnaflux stuff, basically the secret is to spray it on just a tiny bit, just dust it

I also learned that the red dye does NOT dry, EVER, trust me I tried everything, leaving it be for a couple hours, even helping it out with the wifes hair dryer

but that's OK, allow it to soak in for about 30 minutes then wipe it off real good, then just dust with the Developer one or two quick squirts per chamber is all that's needed

[Gregski]

OK, so now that I knew this head had cracks in it, I gave the SPOTCHECKER another shot to see if it will find them, and it did, but again because I used a fraction of the product this time than the time before, and that's important

See? The same three cracks are now highlighted in red

[Gregski]

well I got so good at finding cracks I decided to re-examine that first driver side Vortec cylinder head to see if now I could use my Eagle Eye to spot any more cracks, again just with that flashlight (FREE flashlight that is) and sure as _________ I did, I found a total of three cracks, check it out I covered each one with a thin strip of green tape

Cracks are in:

1. Between #1 intake and exhaust seats

2. at 1:00 o'clock in #5 exhaust seat

3. Between #7 intake and exhaust seats

[Gregski]

WHAT A DAY, What a Day! Lets end it on a positive note. More parts are here:

Of course we open the big box first. So from JEGS (better prices than Simmit I have found) and FREE shipping, we got:

Hydraulic flat tappet Camshaft GM Performance part number 24502476 for $108.99

Lift: .435" intake, .465" exhaust
Duration: 212* intake, 222* exhaust @.050" tappet lift
Centerline: 109* ATDC intake, 116* BTDC exhaust
Lobe Separation: 112*

Fel-Pro Vortec Intake Manifold Gasket set part number 1255 for $22.99

GM Performance Head Gaskets part number 10105117 for $37.98

and a new even sided Thermostat Housing GM part number 10108470 for $3.99 optional, but I don't like that stock lopsided deformed one with one long bolt and one short one, yes the alternator is getting relocated, midmounted

[y5mgisi]

Geesh! That's something!

[enaberif]

Your experience with the heads is exactly why I haven't bothered upgrading for. You spent how much money now on used heads to find out they are junk?

Sometimes you have to spend money the right way to avoid headaches and if that means buying heads from a shop ready to go then so be it.

I see it as you now have spent $300? Between two heads and the test material? That is on head brand new.

[68Timber]

Interesting. I didn't know the vortec heads were so crack-prone.

[chevybuldr]

Originally Posted by 68Timber

Interesting. I didn't know the vortec heads were so crack-prone.

Vortec heads have big issues with cracks and also with pounding out exhaust seats. Higher cylinder temps play havoc on seats. As it was said before, most vortecs are cracked. I have seen a few that were not but its rare.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 68Timber

Interesting. I didn't know the vortec heads were so crack-prone.

Makes me wonder, am I pulling the wrong Vortec heads? Apparently they came in two castings but get this three flavors. Part numbers:

12558062 - late 90's Chevy Tahoe and Suburbans

10239906 - late 90's Chevy Trucks (two flavors of this one, that's what confused me, one type of these 906s I hear may be good)

The ladder of the two the 10239906 has hardened exhaust seats from what the web tells us, but supposedly flows less, hence I went after the 12258062 ones.

The Iron Alternative
GM Performance's New Vortec Heads Promise Big Flow Numbers For A Modest Investment

"The easiest way to identify a Vortec head is by the sawtooth pattern cast into the front. Look for casting number 12558062, but avoid casting number 10239906, which has a modified exhaust seat and loses 20 percent of its flow at 0.120-inch lift."


Now I am reading that, that may have been a myth.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

Your experience with the heads is exactly why I haven't bothered upgrading for. You spent how much money now on used heads to find out they are junk?

Sometimes you have to spend money the right way to avoid headaches and if that means buying heads from a shop ready to go then so be it.

I see it as you now have spent $300? Between two heads and the test material? That is one head brand new.

After I buy the fourth head I would have spent approximately $190 on four heads, however this includes rockers that came on the first pair. If I did things right I had the opportunity to return the cracked heads, which would have put me back down to a set for just under $100.

I would not count the SPOTCHECK $75 dollar expense against the heads as I would have bought that to check my old heads or my block anyways.

I agree with you, knowing now what I didn't know then I will not build or rebuild another engine with used cylinder heads, but hey education costs, and I don't mind paying, I have learned a ton and am still learning, and honestly I enjoy this hands on stuff, I learn way more this way than from a book, or a YouTube video, or reading the Internet.

If nothing else, now when I read any forum about doing a top engine swap using old used Vortec heads I will just think, yeah right, good luck with that, LOL

[Gregski]

well gotta run, the Junk Yard awaits, I hear there's a '99 Tahoe with a Vortec head with my name on it

[68post]

Learning from others experiance says that there isn't a flow differance btw the castings and that the only safe bet is using the "906" castings - IF they truely do have the factory inconel seat insert !! (and not all one ton trucks have the inserts)

All unleaded heads have hardened seats from the factory but they are "induction hardened" which is a hardening process done to the casting and is not a separately installed seat.

[rusty76]

That sucks. But you learning us something

[Gregski]

took a day off work and hit the junk yard today, I was fortunate enough to stumble upon a virgin 1999 Chevrolet Suburban that just go there three days ago on March 14th, 2016, the hood was not even opened yet, no one had pulled anything off of it yet

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

took a day off work and hit the junk yard today, I was fortunate enough to stumble upon a virgin 1999 Chevrolet Suburban that just go there three days ago on March 14th, 2016, the hood was not even opened yet, no one had pulled anything off of it yet

That looks like a K47 filter box for the AC1300C round filters. If it is... it's the best stock GMT400 Turbo Diesel filter GM made. There are people looking for those. They were also used on several Vortec motors. The box and fender mount is good barter material. Most yard trolls don't know that the Gasoline K47 airboxes can be used on the diesels. To them it's just an air filter housing. Don't educate them.

They flow very to extremely well without letting dirt through like the K&N oiled cotton filters.