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03-20-2016, 08:54 PM | #1 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Support the cover on 2 blocks of wood and use a punch/hammer to drive the seal out.
Reinstall new seal(after painting cover) with seal facing out as seen in the second picture. |
03-20-2016, 09:11 PM | #2 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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Perfect, thank you so much for helping me out |
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03-20-2016, 08:59 PM | #3 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Yea those are rusted just as bad as the ones you took out. The fronts wouldn't be bad, but the back you have to pull the trans out. You know those only leak when you are away from home. I think everybody would agree do it now.
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03-20-2016, 08:46 PM | #4 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
here's what the new replacement seal looks like, and its got a hard outer edge, so its not like it would go in with that lip on both sides of the cover
question is which way does it go in, which way is front and which way is back, know what I'm sayin' Last edited by Gregski; 03-20-2016 at 09:07 PM. |
03-20-2016, 09:31 PM | #5 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
naturally I already own this one, two tubes mind you, LOL one not even opened, so what the heck is this Permatex ANTI-SEIZE 133A stuff for?
their website reads: "A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use." Fellas I aint trying to be difficult or stubborn, I know you have shown me what to use specifically, but I don't want to just blindly use something, I want to comprehend it, know what I mean? Plus I hate buying stuff when I already have some stuff. I just hope its the right stuff. |
03-20-2016, 09:43 PM | #6 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
It is a thread lubricant to prevent galling. I am a Millwright at a paper mill and we use TONS of it on fasteners, especially stainless. Prevents galling and makes life easier when removing bolts/nuts.
I would not use it on anything internal for your engine. The stuff has a metallic compound to it that would not be good mixing with engine lubrication. Good for, exhaust fasteners, motor mount fasteners, accessory bracket fasteners, etc. |
03-20-2016, 10:05 PM | #7 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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03-20-2016, 10:18 PM | #8 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
I've done both not sure what others do somehow I still manage to break of manifold bolts and studs
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03-20-2016, 10:23 PM | #9 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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Sometimes you will use it in place where two different types of metal exist such as aluminum and steel which can corrode together. |
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03-20-2016, 10:54 PM | #10 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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I use it on Spark Plug threads and on wheel lugs. Be aware that torque specs in your service manuals are DRY not lubricated. Torques need to be derated for anti-seize lubricated nuts and bolts. Permatex has charts for this.
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And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful. |
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03-21-2016, 06:43 AM | #11 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Yes, use it on exhaust manifold/header bolts, collector bolts, spark plug threads, and especially any bolts threaded into your aluminum intake, thermostat housing bolts for example.
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03-20-2016, 09:37 PM | #12 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
that is good to put on brake parts or other things not touched often to prevent the bolts from getting rusted into their threads its good for nothing else and should never be used to seal a water jack to put it simply
If you use that on your water jacket head bolt
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03-20-2016, 09:44 PM | #13 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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and I found where I used this stuff, looks like back in Thread 430 Thermostat Bolts heck maybe even the Intake Manifold bolts, no wonder it leaked!!! Last edited by Gregski; 03-20-2016 at 10:28 PM. |
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03-20-2016, 09:54 PM | #14 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
When you put the new seal into the cover if you haven't already make sure that little lip is perfectly or as close to perfect as you can get.
Then before you install the seal put a small amount of black rtv around the edge and then install. When you put the cover back on put a small amount of grease on the crank snout to prevent any binding of rubber against steel. |
03-20-2016, 10:17 PM | #15 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
gentlemen I don't mean to beat a dead horse to death, I swear, you are really helping me out here, so 2 more questions I promise
1. what about this ARP Thread Sealer part number 100-9904 I found - what is this meant for? I know threads but which ones, head bolts, exhaust manifold bots, intake manifold bolts, water pump? |
03-20-2016, 10:20 PM | #16 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
That ARP thread sealant will be good for any water jacket application and anything up to 550 degrees and is even good on fuel fittings
worth the few extra bucks to not send coolant into your engine "ask how I know"
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03-20-2016, 10:23 PM | #17 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
thanks unfortunately I believe the tube was opened and is 80 years old so I just tossed it and will go with the Permatex high temp stuff, but it pays to know
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03-21-2016, 09:13 PM | #18 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
You WILL be sorry if you don't replace all of the freeze plugs!!! They will let loose at the most inopportune time leaving you stranded or worse over heating your engine cracking your new heads. It's not worth it for a few bucks!!!
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03-22-2016, 01:40 AM | #19 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
I was literally replacing another freeze plug when I got your text in the garage, lol, but I must admit just as I expected this one was solid, there was absolutely no need for me to extract it
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03-22-2016, 01:36 AM | #20 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
picked up some white vinegar on the way home from work today and decided to use it to flush out the block from all the coolant rust, not sure if it was worth the $3.00 dollar investment, used boiling hot water and vinegar to do so
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03-22-2016, 01:38 AM | #21 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
used painters tape to block off the cylinders to prevent vinegar and or water from splashing down upon them, then I was super careful
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03-22-2016, 01:47 AM | #22 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
all in all, it was pretty much an all to do about nothing type a day, I worked my butt off but had not much to show for it
I cleaned bolts and washers and more bolts 1. oil pan bolts 2. timing cover bolts 3. water pump bolts 4. intake manifold bolts 5. valve cover bolts 6. crank gear bolts 7. fan bolts 8. fly wheel bolts 9. pressure plate bolts 10. bell housing bolts I cleaned the oil pan, it may need a little touch up paint I cleaned the timing cover, its ready for paint and a new seal I Mickey Moused with the thermostat gasket on the new Vortec intake manifold with a razor blade, until no one was looking, then I called in the heavy artillery trying to decide weather I clear this thing or paint it Cast Iron to match the heads and the block, its pourous and a pain to clean, I can only imagine it being a dirt and grime magnet in the truck hey I cleaned my workbench.... again Last edited by Gregski; 03-22-2016 at 02:06 AM. |
03-22-2016, 02:01 AM | #23 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
So the plan is to put the engine back together on Saturday (that's 4 days from now), the original plan for March Madness was to have the engine back in the truck by then ie all in one month, but then I had my set back(s) with the Vortec heads, so I'm sure you'll forgive me for falling behind
so here's what's left to do in the crunch time 0. chase / tap all the bolt holes in the blockI don't want to rush, but at the same time I don't want this engine sitting in two dozen pieces for eternity, I'm sure you know what I mean. Though I work hard and do the best that I can, at 43 I learned that I rather have something completed at 80% quality, than strive for 100% perfection and never complete it! |
03-22-2016, 02:10 AM | #24 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
saw this Lucas Engine Break-In oil Zinc additive at AutoZone today while buying new belts, seems like they don't carry engine break in oil any more, neither does Oh'Reallys
The GM Start-up and Break-in Procedures, Specifications 19210008 only say use 10w30 motor oil (non-synthetic) and nothing about Zinc |
03-22-2016, 07:55 AM | #25 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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Keep in mind though if this were a full rebuild you would want some straight 30 weight to help seat rings on first start up and to reduce initial bearing wear. "Steps off soap box"
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