Restoring Rusty

[Jake Wade]

Support the cover on 2 blocks of wood and use a punch/hammer to drive the seal out.

Reinstall new seal(after painting cover) with seal facing out as seen in the second picture.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

Support the cover on 2 blocks of wood and use a punch/hammer to drive the seal out.

Bro I tried that already, and all it did was just bend the lip out in a thousand directions, that's how stubborn she was.

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

Reinstall new seal(after painting cover) with seal facing out as seen in the second picture.

Perfect, thank you so much for helping me out

[chevybuldr]

Originally Posted by Gregski

gonna do the two on each side of the block, so four total, not touching the 2 in the back nor the two in the front, I plan on regretting that later

Yea those are rusted just as bad as the ones you took out. The fronts wouldn't be bad, but the back you have to pull the trans out. You know those only leak when you are away from home. I think everybody would agree do it now.

[Gregski]

here's what the new replacement seal looks like, and its got a hard outer edge, so its not like it would go in with that lip on both sides of the cover

question is which way does it go in, which way is front and which way is back, know what I'm sayin'

[Gregski]

naturally I already own this one, two tubes mind you, LOL one not even opened, so what the heck is this Permatex ANTI-SEIZE 133A stuff for?

their website reads:

"A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly.

Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C).

Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use."

Fellas I aint trying to be difficult or stubborn, I know you have shown me what to use specifically, but I don't want to just blindly use something, I want to comprehend it, know what I mean? Plus I hate buying stuff when I already have some stuff. I just hope its the right stuff.

[Jake Wade]

It is a thread lubricant to prevent galling. I am a Millwright at a paper mill and we use TONS of it on fasteners, especially stainless. Prevents galling and makes life easier when removing bolts/nuts.

I would not use it on anything internal for your engine. The stuff has a metallic compound to it that would not be good mixing with engine lubrication.

Good for, exhaust fasteners, motor mount fasteners, accessory bracket fasteners, etc.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

It is a thread lubricant to prevent galling. I am a Millwright at a paper mill and we use TONS of it on fasteners, especially stainless. Prevents galling and makes life easier when removing bolts/nuts.

I would not use it on anything internal for your engine. The stuff has a metallic compound to it that would not be good mixing with engine lubrication.

Good for, exhaust fasteners, motor mount fasteners, accessory bracket fasteners, etc.

lots of good info here, please elaborate on the "exhaust fasteners" comment, do you mean exhaust manifold bolts, or bolts further down like header collector bolts

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by Gregski

lots of good info here, please elaborate on the "exhaust fasteners" comment, do you mean exhaust manifold bolts, or bolts further down like header collector bolts

I've done both not sure what others do somehow I still manage to break of manifold bolts and studs

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Gregski

lots of good info here, please elaborate on the "exhaust fasteners" comment, do you mean exhaust manifold bolts, or bolts further down like header collector bolts

Any type of fastener that has can have a tendency to "seize" in place. This can be due to moisture, metal on metal etc.

Sometimes you will use it in place where two different types of metal exist such as aluminum and steel which can corrode together.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

lots of good info here, please elaborate on the "exhaust fasteners" comment, do you mean exhaust manifold bolts, or bolts further down like header collector bolts

All of the above. Exhaust bolts especially.
I use it on Spark Plug threads and on wheel lugs.
Be aware that torque specs in your service manuals are DRY not lubricated.
Torques need to be derated for anti-seize lubricated nuts and bolts. Permatex has charts for this.

[Jake Wade]

Yes, use it on exhaust manifold/header bolts, collector bolts, spark plug threads, and especially any bolts threaded into your aluminum intake, thermostat housing bolts for example.

[Valarius_Starchaser]

that is good to put on brake parts or other things not touched often to prevent the bolts from getting rusted into their threads its good for nothing else and should never be used to seal a water jack to put it simply

If you use that on your water jacket head bolt

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Valarius_Starchaser

that is good to put on brake parts or other things not touched often to prevent the bolts from getting rusted into their threads its good for nothing else and should never be used to seal a water jack

LOL, thank you, that makes sense I appreciate it - did I mention Chemistry is not my strong suite

and I found where I used this stuff, looks like back in Thread 430 Thermostat Bolts heck maybe even the Intake Manifold bolts, no wonder it leaked!!!

[enaberif]

When you put the new seal into the cover if you haven't already make sure that little lip is perfectly or as close to perfect as you can get.

Then before you install the seal put a small amount of black rtv around the edge and then install. When you put the cover back on put a small amount of grease on the crank snout to prevent any binding of rubber against steel.

[Gregski]

gentlemen I don't mean to beat a dead horse to death, I swear, you are really helping me out here, so 2 more questions I promise

1. what about this ARP Thread Sealer part number 100-9904 I found - what is this meant for? I know threads but which ones, head bolts, exhaust manifold bots, intake manifold bolts, water pump?

[Valarius_Starchaser]

That ARP thread sealant will be good for any water jacket application and anything up to 550 degrees and is even good on fuel fittings

worth the few extra bucks to not send coolant into your engine "ask how I know"

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Valarius_Starchaser

That ARP thread sealant will be good for any water jacket application and anything up to 550 degrees and is even good on fuel fittings

worth the few extra bucks to not send coolant into your engine "ask how I know"

thanks unfortunately I believe the tube was opened and is 80 years old so I just tossed it and will go with the Permatex high temp stuff, but it pays to know

[Troy Sr]

You WILL be sorry if you don't replace all of the freeze plugs!!! They will let loose at the most inopportune time leaving you stranded or worse over heating your engine cracking your new heads. It's not worth it for a few bucks!!!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Troy Sr

You WILL be sorry if you don't replace all of the freeze plugs!!! They will let loose at the most inopportune time leaving you stranded or worse over heating your engine cracking your new heads. It's not worth it for a few bucks!!!

I was literally replacing another freeze plug when I got your text in the garage, lol, but I must admit just as I expected this one was solid, there was absolutely no need for me to extract it

[Gregski]

picked up some white vinegar on the way home from work today and decided to use it to flush out the block from all the coolant rust, not sure if it was worth the $3.00 dollar investment, used boiling hot water and vinegar to do so

[Gregski]

used painters tape to block off the cylinders to prevent vinegar and or water from splashing down upon them, then I was super careful

[Gregski]

all in all, it was pretty much an all to do about nothing type a day, I worked my butt off but had not much to show for it

I cleaned bolts and washers and more bolts

1. oil pan bolts
2. timing cover bolts
3. water pump bolts
4. intake manifold bolts
5. valve cover bolts
6. crank gear bolts
7. fan bolts
8. fly wheel bolts
9. pressure plate bolts
10. bell housing bolts


I cleaned the oil pan, it may need a little touch up paint

I cleaned the timing cover, its ready for paint and a new seal

I Mickey Moused with the thermostat gasket on the new Vortec intake manifold with a razor blade, until no one was looking, then I called in the heavy artillery

trying to decide weather I clear this thing or paint it Cast Iron to match the heads and the block, its pourous and a pain to clean, I can only imagine it being a dirt and grime magnet in the truck

hey I cleaned my workbench.... again

[Gregski]

So the plan is to put the engine back together on Saturday (that's 4 days from now), the original plan for March Madness was to have the engine back in the truck by then ie all in one month, but then I had my set back(s) with the Vortec heads, so I'm sure you'll forgive me for falling behind

so here's what's left to do in the crunch time

0. chase / tap all the bolt holes in the block

1. paint engine block

2. paint timing cover

3. paint valve covers

4. paint or clear coat the new(er) Vortec intake manifold

5. assembly the new(er) Vortec heads

6. gather up all the odd ball this and thats (expansion plugs, water pump gaskets, thermostat gasket, thread sealer, gasket maker, etc.)

I don't want to rush, but at the same time I don't want this engine sitting in two dozen pieces for eternity, I'm sure you know what I mean.

Though I work hard and do the best that I can, at 43 I learned that I rather have something completed at 80% quality, than strive for 100% perfection and never complete it!

[Gregski]

saw this Lucas Engine Break-In oil Zinc additive at AutoZone today while buying new belts, seems like they don't carry engine break in oil any more, neither does Oh'Reallys

The GM Start-up and Break-in Procedures, Specifications 19210008 only say use 10w30 motor oil (non-synthetic) and nothing about Zinc

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by Gregski

saw this Lucas Engine Break-In oil Zinc additive at AutoZone today while buying new belts, seems like they don't carry engine break in oil any more, neither does Oh'Reallys

The GM Start-up and Break-in Procedures, Specifications 19210008 only say use 10w30 motor oil (non-synthetic) and nothing about Zinc

That's because when GM made your engine the knuckle heads at the EPA didn't remove the zinc from our oil yet. You want something between 1000-1800ppm of zinc in your oil or you will wipe a cam very quickly. I simply run Rotella T6 diesel oil it has a naturally higher zinc content still at around 1100 and has been proven by third party hobbies the like us with oil analysis tests sent in to labs. It costs a little more then normal 5w30 but it sure beats trying to track down zinc additive and then trying to explain it to the kid behind the parts counter as you melt his brain trying to explain it to him.

Keep in mind though if this were a full rebuild you would want some straight 30 weight to help seat rings on first start up and to reduce initial bearing wear.

"Steps off soap box"