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Old 03-19-2016, 11:41 PM   #3151
hatzie
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Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregski View Post
Oh no Jeramy I hope your eye is ok. I constantly hear the wire wheel whiskers richochete off my face shield as they come loose, so I know it's earning its keep and worth every penny of that $13.97, money well spent!

For anyone reading, I strongly recommend the full face shield, since when I try the ugly high school chemistry class goggles I get wire wheel bristles literally stuck in my cheeks, and that's not my idea of Acupuncture
Been there done that. I have a face shield right next to the grinder and polisher as well as one more hanging next to the welder under the shelf with the angle grinder.
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:18 AM   #3152
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Re: Restoring Rusty

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Been there done that. I have a face shield right next to the grinder and polisher as well as one more hanging next to the welder under the shelf with the angle grinder.
show me a pic of yours hatzie I bet you got a cool one, I want to upgrade from my cheapie and wonder whatz out there
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:35 AM   #3153
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Re: Restoring Rusty

and now, an open letter to GM

3/20/2016 Anno Domini

Dear GM Knuckleheads

Please add basic arithmetic to the skill set required by your Accountant and Warehouse operator positions. You see you present common folk like me with a basic dilemma. A Small Block Chebby cylinder head you make requires 8 short bolts, yet you sell said bolts in packets of 5 (See peoples Exhibit 1A and 1B attached) This forces us to buy two baggies of bolts for a grand total of 10, that is two extra.

What is a married man with children like me supposed to do with the two extra bolts, where do you expect me to store them in my stroller and bicycle and roller blade filled garage? My wife already expects to park her air conditioned, seat warmer, rear view camera vehicle in said WORKSPACE.

Add to that the fact that in most cases you will be a replacing both heads, now the problem DOUBLES. Now you need 16 bolts but three baggies will only yield you 15 (again 5 per bag) man you are one bolt short, do you reuse one old bolt, can you discriminate one bolt hole like that and risk public humiliation when your car buddies realize what you have done.

Oh no GM, you have to now purchase 4 bags of bolts, and have a total of 20, where you only need 16. Still with me GM? Now did you realize that manufacturing these 4 extra not needed bolts contributes directly to Global Warming [ahem] Climate Change! And every time you force us to buy them another tree hugger has to go out and buy yet another Prius. And does the fast lane on any highway need another _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Prius in it?

So please get it right, and I know it will be a major paradigm shift, but sell them in fours in each bag, the entire SBC community will thank you and you will be making this world a better place you greedy _ _ stards.

All My Love,
The Greg
P.S. Ah snap I just broke a head bolt while tightening it to spec, good thing I had some extras!!!
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Last edited by Gregski; 03-20-2016 at 10:58 PM.
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:43 AM   #3154
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Re: Restoring Rusty

At least those headbolts come with pre-applied thread sealant... Not sure how much you want to trust it though.
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:53 AM   #3155
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Re: Restoring Rusty

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At least those headbolts come with pre-applied thread sealant... Not sure how much you want to trust it though.
Talk to me Goose, as I have been trying to understand that white stuff. Here's what I know, or what I think I know, there is Loctite which comes in both the Blue (medium strength) and Red (highest strength) variety. Then there is anti seize which I think is Gray.

So what is this White stuff? Honestly when I see it on bolt threads I can't help but think of what I call plumbers tape or teflon tape, technically called thread seal tape I guess. So please, learn me something.
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Old 03-20-2016, 12:29 PM   #3156
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Re: Restoring Rusty

The head bolts thread into the water jacket, so they need a sealant to keep the coolant from wicking its way up the threads.

I use Permatex thread sealer on bolts, but yours come with the sealer already applied - saves a step!
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Old 03-20-2016, 12:59 PM   #3157
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Re: Restoring Rusty

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The head bolts thread into the water jacket, so they need a sealant to keep the coolant from wicking its way up the threads.

I use Permatex thread sealer on bolts, but yours come with the sealer already applied - saves a step!
Bingo! Also note when installing intake manifolds you should apply sealant to those bolts to avoid wicking of oil up the threads.
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Old 03-20-2016, 01:04 PM   #3158
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Re: Restoring Rusty

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The head bolts thread into the water jacket, so they need a sealant to keep the coolant from wicking its way up the threads.

I use Permatex thread sealer on bolts, but yours come with the sealer already applied - saves a step!
Good info Skinny G, but I need more, I have a fever and I need more cow bell, which specific Permatex thread sealer do you recommend, the word on the street is use #2?
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Old 03-20-2016, 01:10 PM   #3159
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Re: Restoring Rusty

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Good info Skinny G, but I need more, I have a fever and I need more cow bell, which specific Permatex thread sealer do you recommend, the word on the street is use #2?
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Old 03-20-2016, 01:21 PM   #3160
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Re: Restoring Rusty

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show me a pic of yours hatzie I bet you got a cool one, I want to upgrade from my cheapie and wonder whatz out there
Inexpensive 3M Face Shields from Lowes with the regulatory compliance numbers embossed in the upper corner. $14. Really nothing special. They keep wire and small chunks of grinding stones and cutoff wheels out of my face.

While I'm on the subject of grinding stones. I've had the Asian cheapies that came with one of my newer bench grinders explode. It tore the sheet metal guard right off the motor. I'm real careful of them now. Even US made stones can do that if they are damaged.
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1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
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2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:21 PM   #3161
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Re: Restoring Rusty

cleaned the other half of the valves this morning and lapped them and the seats in the passenger side Vortec (C 16 9) cylinder head

and finally got to paint the heads,
pic 1 - prepped

pic 2 - first light coat

pic 3 - second light coat

pic 4 - final medium coat
let me know whacha all think
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Last edited by Gregski; 03-20-2016 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:24 PM   #3162
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Painting Vortec Heads

lets see these beauties side by side, a non painted ugly ducklin' and the finished shinny product

Gentlemen let me tell you it felt great to get these in the paint booth finally, you can only imagine

the last pic is my favorite, they look mean, they look like their going fast just sitting there, ha ha
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:29 PM   #3163
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Re: Restoring Rusty

then it was time for the other side, I swear the sun, the light, and shadows make these heads look seven different colors, but I assure you its one lovely cast iron hue, ha ha

top pic especially doesn't do it justice, its definately not that dark
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:37 PM   #3164
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Re: Restoring Rusty

and then I caught a bit of painting fever, anything but more head cleaning and valve lapping, I swear

so I got ahold of the water pump pulley, remember this filthy guy, and decided it was its turn to shine!
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:39 PM   #3165
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Re: Restoring Rusty

even rubbed its belly

yeah I'm the guy who lifts the rug when he vacuums, ha ha

I think I cleaned more places that nobody will ever see, than my college roommate all his life, JK
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Last edited by Gregski; 03-21-2016 at 01:18 AM.
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:49 PM   #3166
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Re: Restoring Rusty

who says this thread has no fans?!

I love this picture, I could almost post it on a wall (of course in the garage and not the living room honey, geez as if I was ever to replace that hideous painting your mother gave us - I love that oil on wood "A Grotesque Old Woman")
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:50 PM   #3167
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Re: Restoring Rusty

well the tips were a bit rusty and that bothered the Greg so he stripped it to bare metal

now this is art folks

"I find this work menacing/playful because of the way the subaqueous qualities of the metal fan motifs threatens to penetrate a participation in the critical dialogue of the pebble background." not me, got that off of the The Instant Art Critique Phrase Generator - LOL
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Last edited by Gregski; 03-20-2016 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:54 PM   #3168
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Re: Restoring Rusty

and into the paint booth it went, this time for a fresh black tuxedo, which got deeper with each light coat of black
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:27 PM   #3169
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Re: Restoring Rusty

man I was having a good day, you could say I was in perfect harmony with the truck today, ha ha

even after shovelin' 4 pounds of dirt out of it, one teaspoon at a time
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:29 PM   #3170
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Re: Restoring Rusty

thought about going clear on her, but she was too dirty so black she went

ah don't give me that your red bucket is half full nonsense, this ol' thing has a crack in it and it leaks so this is its only purpose in life now
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:59 PM   #3171
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Re: Restoring Rusty

Its a bucket weight!
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:22 PM   #3172
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Re: Restoring Rusty

Nice cleaning job Gregski! If you had seen as many of those things separate as I have you would have probably got a new one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pb...del/c10-pickup

I hope you get lucky for a while, you deserve it as hard as you work.
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:31 PM   #3173
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Re: Restoring Rusty

That damper looks like it's seen better days. The Elastomer ring is swelled and there's at least one crack in the elastomer.
The Elastomer ring should look even on a good damper. Either flat or evenly rounded like an o-ring. It shouldn't be recessed below or unevenly swelled above the surface of the iron damper ring and core.

After all the work you've done it'd be a shame to break the crank because the damper ring decided to move.

You don't need an SFI approved ATI damper or Fluidamper for the smallblock you're building. Just get a good quality new 8" Iron damper. It'll last another 42 years.
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1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:39 PM   #3174
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Re: Restoring Rusty

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Originally Posted by hatzie View Post
That damper looks like it's seen better days. The Elastomer ring is swelled and there's at least one crack in the elastomer.
The Elastomer ring should look even on a good damper. Either flat or evenly rounded like an o-ring. It shouldn't be recessed below or unevenly swelled above the surface of the iron damper ring and core.

After all the work you've done it'd be a shame to break the crank because the damper ring decided to move.

You don't need an SFI approved ATI damper or Fluidamper for the smallblock you're building. Just get a good quality new 8" Iron damper. It'll last another 42 years.
I agree looks like it has seen a lot of oil for a long time. Cheap insurance for such a major component.
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:44 PM   #3175
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Re: Restoring Rusty

And... Harmonic Balancers make good doorstops. I've used em on a rope and pulley system as sash weights for auto-closing barn doors too.
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.
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