Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

and don't forget this little feller

[chevybuldr]

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/#prettyPhoto/0/

This man knows what he is talking about. It might sound like just an ad to sell oil but I have met him and read a lot from other people, he knows what he is talking about. Diesel motor oils have had a lot of the ZDDP's removed from their oils. It used to be a common thing to used Delo or Rotella but not anymore. Also the ZDDP's work at a different operating temp. A diesel motor has higher internal engine temps compared to a gas motor. Straight 30 weight is a thing of old. Either use a break-in oil or use a 10-30 with the additive. If you are going to use synthetic then wait about 5,000 miles before making the change.

I have a camshaft at work from a brand new motor. 5 lobes went flat instantly because the mechanic decided he did not need to put in the additive that we gave him. There are so many opinions on this and its an on going debate. Again watch the video its explains a lot.

[SkinnyG]

I have a lumpy flat-tappet cam with some fairly stiff valve springs.

I used Comp Cams break-in oil for the first 20 minutes to break in the cam. Then drained the oil (don't look at it, trust me).

I then used Comp Cams break-in-oil to go break in the rings for about 100kms. Then drained the oil.

I currently use Lucas Hot Rod oil with every oil change.

[SkinnyG]

Oh, I also bought a 7/8" ball hone to make sure the lifter bores would allow the new lifters to rotate. No lobes lost yet (over two years of daily driving).

[Gregski]

this was the least favorite part of the evening, wire wheelin the pourus intake manifold, but we got her shinin' and cleared it for good measure, maybe the shine will hold

[Gregski]

then it was time for the Main Event

here's how to paint an engine block the hard way, LOL

I swear I spent more time masking this thing than actually shootin it, when its all masked you realize there aint that much to paint after all

used high temp primer on this bad boy first, then the paint went on

that last pic of the can of primer refuses to get posted vertically, sorry fellas

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by Gregski

\I swear I spent more time masking this thing than actually shootin it, when its all masked you realize there aint that much to paint after all

Just like every paint job ever just last weekend I was working on a 65 chevelle I spent more time masking off the rear quarters and roof/inner doors and engine bay than I did shooting the rest of the car. That's something we always joke about in the shop how the painter gets payed the most to do the shortest job. Really though as you've learned the final result isn't in the skill of the painter as much as it is in the skill of the prep

Keep going Greg the end is in sight!

[Gregski]

so first the primer, this is the primer for things like the headers, the guy at O'Reillys ordered the wrong one from another store for me, the one I wanted is for painting engines, but oh well this one withstands more heat, if it was the other way around I would not have used the engine primer on the headers, confused yet, good

[Gregski]

and the first coat of paint goes on the engine block

[Gregski]

and here it is the finished product, after two light coats and one medium coat as per the instructions

it has been a long time coming fellas, but I love how it turned out, I know it looks like bare metal, but I like that look, no orange, or blue engines for The Greg that's for sure

[Gregski]

well while we are still beating the break-in oil horse to death, I wanted to share that Summit still sells what I was hoping to find at the local parts houses, an old school 30 weight break-in motor oil, now I aint gonna order my oil, I am just gonna git some cheap 10W-30 and dump some Zinc additive to it, and call it good, it aint needed for more than about a 100 miles anyway

[enaberif]

100 miles?! The break oil is only required for the first 25 minute run @ 2,000rpm. Once you have done that you drop the oil and replace it with fresh oil.

Once you have fresh oil then you drive the truck like you stole it for 500 miles then drop the oil again and put fresh oil in and then stick to regular intervals.

You need to change the oil immediately after the break in to remove all the small pieces of metal that may come off from all the new parts or you can risk damage internally.

[SkinnyG]

Originally Posted by enaberif

You need to change the oil immediately after the break in to remove all the small pieces of metal that may come off from all the new parts

This is why I said "don't look at it." The sparkling metalflake glimmer in the oil will make you think you just ruined your motor. Don't look at it. If the NEXT oil change looks like that, you have problems. But the first one - don't look.

[rusty76]

I'm curious since he didn't replace the bearings will he have as much metal flake in his oil from just the cam swap. I have no idea I'm just curious. Whenever we broke in a new cam we used cheap oil with GM additive(straight six for racing) and run it at 2500rpm for twenty minutes or so. Changed the oil. Went to VR oil and Lucas oil additive and never seemed to have a problem. Though this was on a racing engine.

[enaberif]

flakes will come from lots of areas... cam, timing chain, lifters, push rods etc.

[Gregski]

so I stopped by Pep Boys on the way home from work today and decided to pick up two of these valve cover breathers, I have some but they are chrome and I prefer the black ones, I was so tickled as they rode shot gun with me on the way home

[Gregski]

when I got home I was quickly reminded why I didn't buy the black ones in the first place, they don't fit in my valve covers, they is too big!

so on to Plan B, here's how you paint over Chrome, you don't you wire wheel it off, I tell you I never thought I would be thankful for poor chrome plating, but I was, and soon we were down to the nickel

[Gregski]

a quick spritz of primer and tomorrow we'll be ready to make them black

What do you mean you never night painted? It's great, everything you shoot, turns out great, well until daylight, ha ha

[Gregski]

but that's not what today was about, today we took our first step on the journey to reassembly, we put together the driver side Vortec cylinder head (C 16 9)

we set up our little station for production line like cleaning of parts and assembly, and miticulously cleaned every part

Fun Level = 5

[Gregski]

my buddy Pontiac Mike loaned me these valve stem sleeves to protect the rubber seals while I slide them on, but these sleeves proved to be a bigger pain in the butt to remove (with oily paws) after the seals were installed than installing the seals without em, LOL

I just used a deep socket to press the seals into place

[Gregski]

I only used oil on the valve stem so it would slide into the guide easier, and a dab of oil on the retainers so they would stick to the shaft while I released the spring, there was no assembly lube used at this stage

first valve done

second valve done

and all 8 done in the first cylinder head

time for supper

[enaberif]

make sure to put a small dab of Assembly lube on the tops of the valves for the rockers before you cinch that all up and make sure to use assembly lube on the bottoms of the lifters too.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

make sure to put a small dab of Assembly lube on the tops of the valves for the rockers before you cinch that all up and make sure to use assembly lube on the bottoms of the lifters too.

got the tops of valves under the rocker arms part, but wouldn't the bottoms of the lifters get their lube from the lubbed up cam? just askin'

[79sierra]

Originally Posted by Gregski

got the tops of valves under the rocker arms part, but wouldn't the bottoms of the lifters get their lube from the lubbed up cam? just askin'

You will want to put assembly lube on the cam lobes AND the lifters as well.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by 79sierra

You will want to put assembly lube on the cam lobes AND the lifters as well.

Can't have too much on that contact point.

The oil film on the valve stems should hang around for quite a while. If you're worried flip the head on its' top and squirt some motor oil on the stem where it comes out of the guide in the ports the night before you bolt em on.