Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Valarius_Starchaser

That ARP thread sealant will be good for any water jacket application and anything up to 550 degrees and is even good on fuel fittings

worth the few extra bucks to not send coolant into your engine "ask how I know"

thanks unfortunately I believe the tube was opened and is 80 years old so I just tossed it and will go with the Permatex high temp stuff, but it pays to know

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

lots of good info here, please elaborate on the "exhaust fasteners" comment, do you mean exhaust manifold bolts, or bolts further down like header collector bolts

All of the above. Exhaust bolts especially.
I use it on Spark Plug threads and on wheel lugs.
Be aware that torque specs in your service manuals are DRY not lubricated.
Torques need to be derated for anti-seize lubricated nuts and bolts. Permatex has charts for this.

[Jake Wade]

Yes, use it on exhaust manifold/header bolts, collector bolts, spark plug threads, and especially any bolts threaded into your aluminum intake, thermostat housing bolts for example.

[Troy Sr]

You WILL be sorry if you don't replace all of the freeze plugs!!! They will let loose at the most inopportune time leaving you stranded or worse over heating your engine cracking your new heads. It's not worth it for a few bucks!!!

[Gregski]

picked up some white vinegar on the way home from work today and decided to use it to flush out the block from all the coolant rust, not sure if it was worth the $3.00 dollar investment, used boiling hot water and vinegar to do so

[Gregski]

used painters tape to block off the cylinders to prevent vinegar and or water from splashing down upon them, then I was super careful

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Troy Sr

You WILL be sorry if you don't replace all of the freeze plugs!!! They will let loose at the most inopportune time leaving you stranded or worse over heating your engine cracking your new heads. It's not worth it for a few bucks!!!

I was literally replacing another freeze plug when I got your text in the garage, lol, but I must admit just as I expected this one was solid, there was absolutely no need for me to extract it

[Gregski]

all in all, it was pretty much an all to do about nothing type a day, I worked my butt off but had not much to show for it

I cleaned bolts and washers and more bolts

1. oil pan bolts
2. timing cover bolts
3. water pump bolts
4. intake manifold bolts
5. valve cover bolts
6. crank gear bolts
7. fan bolts
8. fly wheel bolts
9. pressure plate bolts
10. bell housing bolts


I cleaned the oil pan, it may need a little touch up paint

I cleaned the timing cover, its ready for paint and a new seal

I Mickey Moused with the thermostat gasket on the new Vortec intake manifold with a razor blade, until no one was looking, then I called in the heavy artillery

trying to decide weather I clear this thing or paint it Cast Iron to match the heads and the block, its pourous and a pain to clean, I can only imagine it being a dirt and grime magnet in the truck

hey I cleaned my workbench.... again

[Gregski]

So the plan is to put the engine back together on Saturday (that's 4 days from now), the original plan for March Madness was to have the engine back in the truck by then ie all in one month, but then I had my set back(s) with the Vortec heads, so I'm sure you'll forgive me for falling behind

so here's what's left to do in the crunch time

0. chase / tap all the bolt holes in the block

1. paint engine block

2. paint timing cover

3. paint valve covers

4. paint or clear coat the new(er) Vortec intake manifold

5. assembly the new(er) Vortec heads

6. gather up all the odd ball this and thats (expansion plugs, water pump gaskets, thermostat gasket, thread sealer, gasket maker, etc.)

I don't want to rush, but at the same time I don't want this engine sitting in two dozen pieces for eternity, I'm sure you know what I mean.

Though I work hard and do the best that I can, at 43 I learned that I rather have something completed at 80% quality, than strive for 100% perfection and never complete it!

[Gregski]

saw this Lucas Engine Break-In oil Zinc additive at AutoZone today while buying new belts, seems like they don't carry engine break in oil any more, neither does Oh'Reallys

The GM Start-up and Break-in Procedures, Specifications 19210008 only say use 10w30 motor oil (non-synthetic) and nothing about Zinc

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by Gregski

saw this Lucas Engine Break-In oil Zinc additive at AutoZone today while buying new belts, seems like they don't carry engine break in oil any more, neither does Oh'Reallys

The GM Start-up and Break-in Procedures, Specifications 19210008 only say use 10w30 motor oil (non-synthetic) and nothing about Zinc

That's because when GM made your engine the knuckle heads at the EPA didn't remove the zinc from our oil yet. You want something between 1000-1800ppm of zinc in your oil or you will wipe a cam very quickly. I simply run Rotella T6 diesel oil it has a naturally higher zinc content still at around 1100 and has been proven by third party hobbies the like us with oil analysis tests sent in to labs. It costs a little more then normal 5w30 but it sure beats trying to track down zinc additive and then trying to explain it to the kid behind the parts counter as you melt his brain trying to explain it to him.

Keep in mind though if this were a full rebuild you would want some straight 30 weight to help seat rings on first start up and to reduce initial bearing wear.

"Steps off soap box"

[enaberif]

Not sure if its available in the US but up here in the great north we have a company who makes specialized oil for old vehicles and bikes. It is a 10w40 oil which is good for most cars and motorcycles but it contains large amounts of ZDDP to help the wiping of critical engine components.

http://www.camoils.com/

[enaberif]

** Duplicate **

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Valarius_Starchaser

That's because when GM made your engine the knuckle heads at the EPA didn't remove the zinc from our oil yet.

True, but I am refering to the modern specs from the 350 HO Deluxe Engine (19210008) Specifications, revised on May 28th, 2014. That's why I posted that info, cause it surprised me.

Originally Posted by Valarius_Starchaser

You want something between 1000-1800ppm of zinc in your oil or you will wipe a cam very quickly. I simply run Rotella T6 diesel oil it has a naturally higher zinc content still at around 1100 and has been proven by third party hobbies the like us with oil analysis tests sent in to labs. It costs a little more then normal 5w30 but it sure beats trying to track down zinc additive

Glad to hear another proponent of Rotella, as I hear arguments for and against it these days, I think rumors are they are fandangling with the formula, maybe at least in California. Well the Rotella T is on sale, and I had my heart set on it, not quite T6 but it might could work.

Originally Posted by Valarius_Starchaser

and then trying to explain it to the kid behind the parts counter as you melt his brain trying to explain it to him

oh my god, did you have a camera on me this last time I was talking about just that with the pimple faced youth at Oh'Reallys, ha ha, nice kid, but inexperienced, he'll get there though, very open minded

Originally Posted by Valarius_Starchaser

"Steps off soap box"

you can step up on it as many times as you like bro, you are always very helpful, but next time I expect a mic drop when you do Step Off! and if this thing granades I'll know who to blame, jk, ha ha

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

** duplicate **

exterminate!

[blazer2007]

Joe gibbs have a good brake in oil,is it not sold in Cal.?

[79sierra]

All flat tappet cam engines need ZDDP oils, I use Royal Purple HPS 10W 30 in mine.

[jwilson645]

Brad Penn break in oil is what I'm using. Supposed to have the required ZDDP from what I've read and I've read A LOT on it.....

[daddyjeep]

I will 3rd the Rotella. That is what I used for the engine in the Jeep last year.

[rich weyand]

I've been running synth since after break-in. Mobil1 10W30 with half a bottle of this added each oil change.

Amazon.com: ZDDPPlus ZDDP Engine Oil Additive...

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by Gregski

True, but I am refering to the modern specs from the 350 HO Deluxe Engine (19210008) Specifications, revised on May 28th, 2014. That's why I posted that info, cause it surprised me.

That surprised me so much so that I looked in my GM performance book and it even says it comes with a flat tappet cam 24502476 I was hopefull it would be a roller COME ON GM

So I made a call to the GM machine and hopefully the right people will be contacted on the issue

"steps down drops mic"

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

I will 3rd the Rotella. That is what I used for the engine in the Jeep last year.

my buddy who used to run it in his old GTO said couple guys at two different shops said don't do it cause Diesel motor oils contain harmful detergents for gasoline engines, so the plot thickens

[Gregski]

now I also heard you don't want to use a multi weight oil for the break in but should run a 30 weight instead, The Greg's head is about to explode

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Well your only breaking in the came so its not as "crucial" I have heard of guys with good success doing none straight weight 30 in a tight spot with fair results but I have never messed with it as I have always had it available and never have seen a need to risk it I found an alternative for you by the way greg if this one does "blow up" due to my attempted help

GM part number 19201333 I will cut you a deal buddy

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Gregski

now I also heard you don't want to use a multi weight oil for the break in but should run a 30 weight instead, The Greg's head is about to explode

Don't let your head expode. Just run 10w30 or 10w40 and let er run hard for 20 minutes