Restoring Rusty

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Nice Greg that is for sure a tedious job and I agree it is about a fun level 5

[flashed]

Looks good ,and our good Pep Boys store one county below us closed and a new one opened nearby here that only does oil changes ,that sucks as they used to carry things our regular parts stores dont .
Keep at it and we will keep watching .

[chevybuldr]

Take your oil can and hit the inside of that guide with oil. Then take your hand and cup it and put oil in it, use that to oil the stem of the valve. Put the valve in and spin it as it goes in. I can not stress how important this is. The valves see most of the heat and will stick very easy. Trust me on this Greg they need to well lubricated and the start of the engine.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by chevybuldr

Take your oil can and hit the inside of that guide with oil. Then take your hand and cup it and put oil in it, use that to oil the stem of the valve. Put the valve in and spin it as it goes in. I can not stress how important this is. The valves see most of the heat and will stick very easy. Trust me on this Greg they need to well lubricated and the start of the engine.

I did put oil on the stem of the valves using a paint brush dipped in oil before sliding them into the guides, question

interesting, the thing is won't all that oil just run down in the time it takes me to clean up and paint the frame rails and motor mounts etc. I am thinking a month of sitting on the engine stand looking pretty

when its time to break her in, we plan on filling the engine with break-in oil from both valve covers, essentially take the covers off and poor the oil all over the valve train and watch it drizzle down in each glorious Vortec head, then we'll do the electric drill on the oil pump shaft trick while rotating the pistons 1/4 turn a couple times around as all the valves open and close, than a quick prayer and BAZINGA!

[chevybuldr]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I did put oil on the stem of the valves using a paint brush dipped in oil before sliding them into the guides, question

interesting, the thing is won't all that oil just run down in the time it takes me to clean up and paint the frame rails and motor mounts etc. I am thinking a month of sitting on the engine stand looking pretty

when its time to break her in, we plan on filling the engine with break-in oil from both valve covers, essentially take the covers off and poor the oil all over the valve train and watch it drizzle down in each glorious Vortec head, then we'll do the electric drill on the oil pump shaft trick while rotating the pistons 1/4 turn a couple times around as all the valves open and close, than a quick prayer and BAZINGA!

While you would think it would, oil does not dissolve. They will stay libricated enough till you start. The idea is you want no dry area in that guide. Start up is the most crucial time for them.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by chevybuldr

While you would think it would, oil does not dissolve. They will stay libricated enough till you start. The idea is you want no dry area in that guide. Start up is the most crucial time for them.

Copy that, thank you so much for looking out

[enaberif]

ASSEMBLY LUBE EVERYWHERE!

And then when your done.. prime that engine! Your not hurting a thing. Better to over lube than under lube.

[Gregski]

GREAT NEWS: I was able to return the bad/extra heads for a full refund!

So I am only out like $75 bucks for a set of [ahem] slightly used GM Vortec heads with rockers.

Score!

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

GREAT NEWS: I was able to return the bad/extra heads for a full refund!

So I am only out like $75 bucks for a set of [ahem] slightly used GM Vortec heads with rockers.

Score!

Indeed.

[flashed]

Great news ,now you can spend that on something else .

[Gregski]

late night in the garage tonight, put in 5 solid hours

first painted the valve cover breathers black - and I'm happy with the results

[Gregski]

more importantly assembled the second Vortec cylinder head, the passenger side - I think these heads turned out great

[Gregski]

did some mundane cleaning, like this gross fule pump plate, and learned my fuel pump actually does need two gaskets, there's the 2 bolt hole fuel pump to spacer/plate and another four bolt hole one between this plate and the block, who knew

I'm showing you this kinda stuff, cause it's not all Groupies and Booze

[Gregski]

and started getting the workbench ready for re assembly this Saturday, finally!!!

Center stage we have the holy grail, No it's not a poster of Pamela Lee, goodness gracious Earl - focus! ha ha its the Camshaft, the heart of the beast, we have not even broken the seal yet as we do not want to unleash the dragon just yet

[Gregski]

I is tired so here are some random pics - push rods and lifters soaking in the Special Sauce!

[Gregski]

spent about 45 minutes per side chasing the threads in the 17 head bolts per side

since I didn't trust my cheapie tap or chaser what ever it is called, heck there may be even a difference, I just decided to clean an old bolt or two very well with a wire wheel and using mineral spirits so that I wouldn't go in dry I cleaned up all the holes until I could screw in a bolt by hand and unscrew it by hand

clean threads are important because these bad boys will be torques down to spec and we don't want the heads a warpin'

Fun level - 5.8

[Gregski]

I leave you with a question, if I don't plan on using my heater core, do I need to loop the intake manifold to dump directly into the water pump using that short hose about 6 inches or so, or can I just plug that opening in the intake manifold, especially since the matching hole is already plugged in the new water pump,

port in question shown with the screwdriver below

[KQQL IT]

Plug it

[68Timber]

This beats the hell out of basketball.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 68Timber

This beats the hell out of basketball.

ha ha, yup

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Plug it

AMEN brotha! next time could you summarize what you are going to say and not ramble on and on like that, jk, LOL

thanks again

[hatzie]

You don't have AC so you may want the option of running the defroster to clear fog off the glass on a spring or winter evening when the air is damp.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

You don't have AC so you may want the option of running the defroster to clear fog off the glass on a spring or winter evening when the air is damp.

aint that what my long sleeves are for, but you're right, there will be a morning when I will regret it and wish I had heat

[hatzie]

Run copper hard lines with hoses at the ends. Bead the ends to keep the hoses on.
Maybe;
1 along the frame from the water pump hose to up under the heater box.
1 along the intake to the back of the engine... Or maybe both.
1 possibly 2 along the firewall close to the back of the engine.
Copper can be soldered side by side with a slight bump up at the ends to allow two hoses with clamps side by side.
You can buy formed 90° & 45° heater hoses.

Polished copper could look interesting. Or you could paint em to make them blend.

[Gregski]

Ladies and Gentlemen, today is literally The Greg's wifes birthday, needless to say the garage is off limits, so lets keep this on the downlow shall we, cause if she was to find out she would kill me, but I know in my heart of hearts that if she found out that I was about to try to prime my newly re assembly Chebby with a home made distributor stir stick with the cam gear still on it, she would be even more upset, so what I am trying to say here, in a round and about way, we are doing this here modification for her, wouldn't you agree, it's essentially damn if I do, damn if I don't situtation