Project: Custom 71 4x4 hotrod

[msgross]

cool video, thanks... I'm originally from the midwest so auto manufacturing was what everybody wanted to do after high school... lots of those places closed but I blame unions for a large portion of that..

[silver7]

Mannington has been good to me and my family. No union - family owned and professionally managed. US manufacturing is not as prevalent as it once was but it is something to be proud of. Hopefully it will come back strong someday. Thanks.

School is kicking my tail. This wood mechanics class is literally consuming all my available time outside of work so not much progress to report on the truck. But I was able to switch my shop lights to fluorescent and get my Boyd fuel tank temporarily hung in place. The new lights give me so much more visibility in my garage and the tank fits like a glove. Just need to drill my holes and mount it permanently. Both were great decisions. Plan to mount 2 more lights soon and epoxy the floor after I finish the body work.

[freakshow108]

Lookin good brother. Keep up the good work, both on the school front and on the truck front! My daughter is in her freshman year at the University Of Washington so i know what you are going through, just keep your head down and push through it, the pay off will be well worth it. I work for my brother and we are non union and i feel that makes our company more of a family oriented outfit, we actually care what hapens to our employees and there families, i believe it keeps us honest as employers, im glad that you are involved with such a company.

[Dieselwrencher]

Cool video. It's nice to see some companies are committed to staying in the US. Man the truck is coming a long nicely. Nice score on the NV4500 and NP205. That will make driving this truck much more enjoyable!

[silver7]

Thanks for the support guys. School is tough but I guess all PhD programs are supposed to be. And I'm lucky to work for a great company like Mannington. But it stinks that I can't work on the truck more but I'll just have to when school allows. At least I'll keep up with your builds and stay motivated to not get too far behind.

[Conroe trucker]

Been a while since I have been on, lots of progress made.
My Boyd tank leaked, out of the box, and after it was all mounted up and full of gas.

He fixed it, but we had to ship it back and forth, etc.

Might want to fill yours with water or something and check it out.

You will need to take lots of pictures to show mating the new trans and stuff to the old frame.
You'll be a hero later.
It should get it's own thread.

[silver7]

Originally Posted by Conroe trucker

Been a while since I have been on, lots of progress made.
My Boyd tank leaked, out of the box, and after it was all mounted up and full of gas.

He fixed it, but we had to ship it back and forth, etc.

Might want to fill yours with water or something and check it out.

You will need to take lots of pictures to show mating the new trans and stuff to the old frame.
You'll be a hero later.
It should get it's own thread.

Thanks for the heads up with the tank, I'll do that.

Wish I had more time, I really enjoy working on the truck. Spending most of my free time coaching my son's All-Star baseball team. No complaints, life is good.

Just trying to get my brakes completed so I can move on to my tranny, transfer case and engine. Not overly complicated just tedious. Finally figured out where all the lines go so I'm trying to get everything mounted now. I think I am going to have to cut and weld my rear disc brake brackets to provide more clearance.

[silver7]

Finally was able to get a little bit of work done on the truck.

The fuel tank was mounted and also removed the front hubs and rotors so I can have them milled for longer wheel studs. The stud I went with was from summitracing and very expensive ($68 for 5) but the knurl was the correct distance from the head and the head diameter was small enough to fit the recessed stud mounting holes in the back of the rotor. The tricky part is the press fit/knurl holds the hub which is mounted on the outside of the rotor. This means the rotor gets drilled to one diameter while the hub gets drilled to a different diameter. This set me back $70 for both rotors and both hubs - 24 holes total. I took it to my regular shop, R&B machine shop, but they did not feel comfortable doing it so they recommended the shop I took them too. I pick them up next week so I'm keeping my fingers crossed he does a good job.

Also ordered stainless u-bolts and other fasteners for my my tie rod and dual steering stabilizer up front from Totally Stainless. Again, it wasn't cheap (about $140 for everythings) but then again they made it to my custom specs so I can't really complain. 4-6 week lead time though. . .

[silver7]

Got my hubs and rotors back. Everything went back together without any issues so I'm back in business. The 3 in ARP studs and 2 in lugs did the trick. Also ordered my rear wheel studs and bought a Craftsman tap and die kit that I hope to work on later this week. Went with 3" screw-in studs from Moroso for the extra strength. My son's Pony baseball tournament is going on now so my time is limited.

[freakshow108]

SWEET! I cant believe you havent thought of this before, why arent you using the available resources at your disposal, free labor, a whole baseball team, all they would require for payment would be some icecream maybe! Seriously its good to see progress, keep those pics coming!

[silver7]

The craftsman tap and die kit worked very well. Unfortunately, the tap wrench broke yesterday so I had to return the kit and get a replacement. Kinda disappointed in Craftsman.

[silver7]

My Craftsman tap and die kit worked very well except that the large tap wrench broke yesterday with two holes left. Craftsman disappointed me but I took the kit back to Sears yesterday and got a replacement. Either way the studs screwed in fine and I bought some locking washers to seal the deal.

[silver7]

Also bought and received my stainless steel brake and fuel lines from Inline Tube. The tags ID bends made for shipping which need to be straightened out for installation.

I'm trying to find installation instructions or diagrams to help with the install. A lot of people have complained about no installation instructions coming with the Inline Tube kits but I found this site. It has some stuff but I hope to find more info in my factory manuals or on the web.

Inline Tube tech support

[freakshow108]

Originally Posted by silver7

Also bought and received my stainless steel brake and fuel lines from Inline Tube. The tags ID bends made for shipping which need to be straightened out for installation.

I'm trying to find installation instructions or diagrams to help with the install. A lot of people have complained about no installation instructions coming with the Inline Tube kits but I found this site. It has some stuff but I hope to find more info in my factory manuals or on the web.

Inline Tube tech support

Silver, I installed my brake lines from inline so if you need pics of specific locations let me know, I found that if you keep the lines on a flat surface when trying to straighten them out works very well. I did not get my fuel lines from inline, I plan to bend them up myself so I cant help you there. Good luck.

[silver7]

Originally Posted by freakshow108

Silver, I installed my brake lines from inline so if you need pics of specific locations let me know, I found that if you keep the lines on a flat surface when trying to straighten them out works very well. I did not get my fuel lines from inline, I plan to bend them up myself so I cant help you there. Good luck.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind for sure. How did you know where to put them?

[freakshow108]

By shear luck I had saved the old brake lines and pretty mutch just matched them up and from process and elimination got em figured out, Im sure its going to be much easier than you think.

[silver7]

Originally Posted by freakshow108

By shear luck I had saved the old brake lines and pretty mutch just matched them up and from process and elimination got em figured out, Im sure its going to be much easier than you think.

You are probably right. That has been the case more often than note.

Mike - if I crack the code I'll be sure to share.

[Booya]

Looking good, I need to buy a set of brake lines so I'll be watching. I took photos of my lines before I removed them so let me know if you get stuck, maybe I can help. Bill

[msgross]

my inline tube order is still in the box, let me know when you figure it out!

[TheWhiteElephant]

I recently installed them on my 1973 from Inline. The way I did it is I left all the old ones on and installed the new ones one at a time after removing each of the old ones one at a time.

All went well with the exception of the larger one with the shipping bends. I found myself forcing it in between the frame rails/engine mounts more than I wanted to, but you shouldn't have those issues since the body isn't on the frame.

The only other issue I had was that the 2 rear lines had 3/16 inch fittings while my wheel cylinders had 1/4 inch threads. The threads changed to the smaller 3/16 thread in '74. I didn't check them until a couple of months that I purchased the lines, so they wouldn't return them. I solved the issue by getting 3/16 to 1/4 inverted brass adapters at Oreilly's. The rear lines should have had a 45 degree bend, but they didn't. Inline actually sent me the wrong ones, but hand bent the lines and they look good.

[TheWhiteElephant]

If you're interested, here's a thread on the issue...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=470423

[silver7]

Thanks for the help White Elephant.

[silver7]

While cleaning up my frame I filled in some holes that were rusted out or drilled out to make larger than needed. I took measurements but it is hard to tell where I need to be. Anyone out there with a 71 K10 frame who could measure the distance from the back of the front cross member to the first hole of the cross member? That would be a huge help. Thanks.

[freakshow108]

Not sure what your looking for, post a pic and if the k20 is the same ill hook you up.

[silver7]

Originally Posted by freakshow108

Not sure what your looking for, post a pic and if the k20 is the same ill hook you up.

Thanks man. I am looking for the distance from the rivet holding the front cross member in place to the first hole which the engine cross member mounts to. I can't see why the K20 would be any different.