47-55.1 Long Time Coming......

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by dsraven

if you were to extend the lower flap of steel so it goes inside the edge of the lower valance, and provide enough of a hole for water to drain through into that area, the drainage would all happen behind the valance so the hole could be large enough to do the job but would be un noticed. just a thought, dunno what you have for room back there.

I'm not 100% sure what you are talking about. What valance? I'm confused.

Originally Posted by Hey Dude

I hope you don't regret solidly mounting the runningboard on both ends. Same goes for the tight gaps between the cab and filler. Unless your frame is EXTREMELY stiff and rigid you could get rubs, squeaks and cracks.

Ford and Dodge had both ends of the running boards connected for decades without issues. Also, my frame is boxed on both sides and has an X member that runs from right behind the engiine all the way to from rear suspension points. If this thing twists at all I would be shocked.

Either way, I am 100% content in my decisions.

[Hey Dude]

Please don't take my comments as negative. I am a retired Autobody Instructor. It's sometimes hard to take that hat off...

Frame flex is easy enough to test. Once you have your runningboards where you want them, leave the bolts out and put a floor jack under the front right and rear left wheel. Jack each opposing corner 4" off the ground and check for movement at the gaps.

[dsraven]

Aha, now you opened that door of "who knows what to do with this " auto body questionnaire. Haha.
I was thinking about the interference during frame flex as well but thought, looking at the other builds, it is already thought out. Prolly not cruising the hay field anymore but some roads and speed bumps are sorta like that. Lol.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by Hey Dude

Please don't take my comments as negative. I am a retired Autobody Instructor. It's sometimes hard to take that hat off...

Frame flex is easy enough to test. Once you have your runningboards where you want them, leave the bolts out and put a floor jack under the front right and rear left wheel. Jack each opposing corner 4" off the ground and check for movement at the gaps.

I take no offense at the suggestion or concerns. I've been in the trade as well my entire career and this definitely isn't my first rodeo. I'm not one to throw around my resume, but suffice it to say I'm confident I've got this covered. I'm not a hobbyist even though this is being done at home.

Originally Posted by dsraven

Aha, now you opened that door of "who knows what to do with this " auto body questionnaire. Haha.
I was thinking about the interference during frame flex as well but thought, looking at the other builds, it is already thought out. Prolly not cruising the hay field anymore but some roads and speed bumps are sorta like that. Lol.

Like I've said before. If this were just a stock frame I would certainly be concerned with the tight gaps. But this chassis is now as stout as can be. But I do appreciate everyones concerns and take them under advisement.

[daveshilling]

Yall, Glenn is the real deal... Some people get a finished truck in a magazine if they're lucky, but how many of us have had our build THREADS published in a magazine??


Congrats btw, Glenn! Add it to the list (=

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by daveshilling

Yall, Glenn is the real deal... Some people get a finished truck in a magazine if they're lucky, but how many of us have had our build THREADS published in a magazine??


Congrats btw, Glenn! Add it to the list (=

Thanks for the kind words. I never really thought of it that way. At the end of the day I just feel like I'm some dude building a truck in my back yard shop to pay tribute to my dad, more than likely not much differntly then some of you.

However on that topic of the magazine, I did just last week have a conversation with the editor and there will be at least two more technical articles like the one you posted coming in the near future on the progress of my truck.


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[Jason 56]

Wow, great build! I just read through your whole thread. You do amazing work. I really like how you’re modifying everything to how GM should have built it! I’ve built mine with the same mentality. Keep up the progress. I’ll be following.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by Jason 56

Wow, great build! I just read through your whole thread. You do amazing work. I really like how you’re modifying everything to how GM should have built it! I’ve built mine with the same mentality. Keep up the progress. I’ll be following.

I really appreciate your kind words. Thank you, and keep on following as I plug away!

[gsinon]

So it's been a couple weeks. The new Golden Star fender showed up the other day. This morning I went out and unboxed it, and I must say it looked promising right off the bat.

I then removed the grill and the old front fender. Then it was time to cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best. In the end I have to say I am pretty damn impressed with it over all. Is it perfect? NO. Is it far better then the OEM fender I had? ABSOLUTELY!


I can definitely make due with this. I'm so impressed, that instead of spending far too many hours fixing the 72 years of wear and tear on the passenger side fender I am now going to just order a new one for that side too. I look at this as a time vs money thing. Could I make my existing passenger fender work? Yes, but at how many hours? Where if I just buy the new fender I can be spending that time on other things and moving on.










shop time, 3.5hrs
new total, 519.83



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[Getter-Done]

Looks good

I have not heard of Golden star.

I looked it up.

Did you order Direct?
or from Jegs or another vendor?

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Looks good

I have not heard of Golden star.

I looked it up.

Did you order Direct?
or from Jegs or another vendor?

I researched the crap out of who made fenders, and who made them with the least amount of complaints on fit. Golden Star was the clear answer. They are however a couple hundred bucks more. But seeing how they fit, I would do it all over again.


I shopped on both their own web site and Jegs. Same price, however buying direct they wanted $300 for shipping, where as Jegs was only $156. Funny thing about that, is that Jegs does not stock them, they are drop shipped right from Golden Star. Go figure.

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[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by gsinon

I researched the crap out of who made fenders, and who made them with the least amount of complaints on fit. Golden Star was the clear answer. They are however a couple hundred bucks more. But seeing how they fit, I would do it all over again.


I shopped on both their own web site and Jegs. Same price, however buying direct they wanted $300 for shipping, where as Jegs was only $156. Funny thing about that, is that Jegs does not stock them, they are drop shipped right from Golden Star. Go figure.

.

That is good to know / And Funny

[vintovka]

Got one from Classic. Still sorry

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by vintovka

Got one from Classic. Still sorry

Fairly vague reply. Can you share why?

Was it a Golden Star or another brand?


For what its worth, here is my take on aftermarket parts. While I would love it if they all fit the way we want in our mind, I also know for a fact that even the OE sheet metal didn't fit to the standards of what we have come to expect on new cars today. I feel this new fender fits fairly well overall, but yes I see some tweaking in my future. But even the two OE fenders I had didn't fit well and both needed tweaking to make right. In this situation, this new GS fender fits my truck far better then the oe fender it is replacing.

[vintovka]

Originally Posted by gsinon

Fairly vague reply. Can you share why?

Was it a Golden Star or another brand?

.

One from classic was poor fit and has a extra seam in it Shop said would be less expensive to use than repair old one. I should have paid the extra time on the original as it will always bother me. Think its also why hood will never fit right. Will say it was less than half what yours cost both item and shipping. On that note i see original parts are getting cheaper as folks continue to bail out of projects they can never afford to finish due to outrageous inflated prices and shipping costs.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by vintovka

One from classic was poor fit and has a extra seam in it Shop said would be less expensive to use than repair old one. I should have paid the extra time on the original as it will always bother me. Think its also why hood will never fir right. Will say it was less than half what yours cost both item and shipping. On that note i see original parts are getting cheaper as folks continue to bail out of projects they can never afford to finish due to outrageous inflated prices and shipping costs.

I hear ya on all points. This is why I did some research and everyone I talked with said to spend the extra for the GS fender. I looked for a decent fender and only founf one in all of New England. It was in northern VT about six miles from Canada, thst's about a 7 hour drive for me. Just wasn't worth it.

[vintovka]

Ironically in regards to my comments on failing projects i was just offered one today over in Idaho. Near metal complete basket case 53 GMC long bed. Won't say what he wanted here but wouda been an unheard of steal even 3-4 years ago but way outside any cost/benefit effectiveness now Advised him to put in on CL and will share if seen. He blamed prices and shipping for the dream kill.

[gsinon]

So am I the only one that now has a huge ad on the bottom third of my screen when on this forum?? How do I get rid of it?! Seriously annoying.

Been a couple busy weeks since I've been able to spend any time in the shop. This long weekend gave me a chance to get some garage time in. I spent a few hours Saturday transforming two engine stands I had into what will be a rotisserie for the bed once I remove it.




Also the new right side fender showed up. This one again was purchased through Jegs as they had the best price for the fender and shipping. Today I got it installed and fitted with the grill and adjusted as best as I can do for now.





And lastly, while at a rockabilly style hot rod/custom show sunday I found this aftermarket shark fin hood ornament. I love the look and style of it and thought for the $20 purchase price it was worth a shot not knowing if the arc would fit the hood line. All in I love it. Now to see what that $20 is going to co$t me in chrome plating.

I like that it is different than what the factory used or anything I've ever seen.







Shop time: 6.94hrs
New total: 526.77hrs

[Rickysnickers]

The ad has been there for a while. Liz has had a death in the family, so I'm sure it isn't high on her list to get done. That's not intended to be snarky, just truth.

I think those body panels look great!

[-Dan-]

That thing looks terrific as is. Looking forward to see what you do to the rest of it!

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by gsinon

Been a couple busy weeks since I've been able to spend any time in the shop. This long weekend gave me a chance to get some garage time in. I spent a few hours Saturday transforming two engine stands I had into what will be a rotisserie for the bed once I remove it.

I will suggest the balance of your bed Floor rotisserie be above the bed about three inches .
Also make a Locking plate with holes drilled in the back side of the other engine stand.

I am sure you have already thought of this though.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

The ad has been there for a while. Liz has had a death in the family, so I'm sure it isn't high on her list to get done. That's not intended to be snarky, just truth.

I think those body panels look great!

Thnaks, sorry to hear she is dealing with personal issues. No snark taken, those things are far more impoartant then these ads. And thanks!!

Originally Posted by -Dan-

That thing looks terrific as is. Looking forward to see what you do to the rest of it!

Thank you!

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

I will suggest the balance of your bed Floor rotisserie be above the bed about three inches .
Also make a Locking plate with holes drilled in the back side of the other engine stand.

I am sure you have already thought of this though.
Attachment 2306893

I had thought of those things. This is still a work in progress. But I do appreciate your thoughts. You never know when you you might be overlooking something.

[gsinon]

I just realized its been a few weeks since I've updated the thread.

A few weeks ago I started playing with the front bumper fitment. Here are a few pics of the bumper in the stock location...







I took it back off and cut 2" off of the bumper brackets and tack welded them back together. I know this is spring steel and can't be welded properly but this is just to see how it will work. I have already gotten some new flat stock and plan to make my own new brackets now that I have a template to make them from.

Here is everything back together with the to see if the 2" sectioning worked.






Shop time: 12.2 hours
New total: 538.97


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[8man]

It looks better like that.

[gsinon]

A few friends helped me get the bed off and set it sideways on my scissor lift. Now I will have good access to do all the final welding.






At this point I started on the using the tear drop filler pieces that came with the bed normally designed to use on the rear end of the rails, but since I used the Apicella rounded corners I had them left over. I figured this was a good place to use them to finish off the front ends of the rails.





After some grinding here is the finshed look...







I then moved to the tailgate and started fitting and then tack welded the panels that will frame the center of the Chevrolet script for a real nice finished look.






Shop time:4.3 hours
New total: 543.3



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