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#301 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
New Mini-Split and filter system in and ready...
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#302 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 2,070
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
The mini split looks great. I am considering one of these for my shop so I am very interested in how it works out for you. I need one more for cooling rather than heating so a little different situation. What size shop do you have?
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Sanity'66 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=515110 Long bed, Fleetside, Small back window I've Done So Much, With So Little, For So Long, That Now I Can Do Anything With Nothing. ![]() |
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#303 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
So, my shop is 24'x36' with 12' eve's so about 16' to 18' at peak. I have two large industrial ceiling fans spaced evenly and an exhaust fan on one end of the shop. (as typical, it is not big enough) With all that said, i work for the local power company as a power line designer and one of our electrical engineers is very savvy on designing heating an cooling system. I explained my situation and shop dimensions and he suggested 30,000 BTU or above even though if you go by the little examples of what size should i install and they give you some smaller size, he said with the open ceiling, ya go big or go home. lol So, i got this unit off of Amazon, pre-loaded with coolant and all hardware for $1520.00 shipped. I also bought a vacuum pump and gauges so i could do the install properly. You need to have approx. 30" of vacuum. The power needs cost me 300.00 for electrician to install. Total was just under $2,000.00 with filter box. I was tired of the fumes from heat, so with this i should be good.
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#304 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
By the way, it works great! the switch from hot to cold takes a few min is all when you first install the unit, otherwise, works like a champ. Very very quite too!!
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#305 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 2,070
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
That sounds like exactly what I need. My shop is 30'x30' with the same ceiling height. That's a great price, also. I have looked at the mini splits and I was unsure of the size. Now I know, thanks.
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Sanity'66 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=515110 Long bed, Fleetside, Small back window I've Done So Much, With So Little, For So Long, That Now I Can Do Anything With Nothing. ![]() |
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#306 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
Senville SENL-30CD Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump, 30000 BTU 18 SEER 208/230V 1399.00 before tax - Amazon Prime is free shipping Vacuum pump kit: Kozyvacu AUTO AC Repair Complete Tool Kit with 1-Stage 3.5 CFM Vacuum Pump, Manifold Gauge Set, Hoses and its Acccessories Mini-Split line connector: IANZHENKEJI R410A Adapter | 5/16" Female Quick Couplers x 1/4" Male Flare for Outdoor Units Mini Split & HVAC & Central Air Conditioner System(Pack of 2) (145°) Then you just need to have electrical ran. The filter box cost me $85.00 but is optional. |
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#307 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 2,070
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Thanks for the info.
__________________
Sanity'66 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=515110 Long bed, Fleetside, Small back window I've Done So Much, With So Little, For So Long, That Now I Can Do Anything With Nothing. ![]() |
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#308 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Small update: So the Mini-Split is working great! I am amazed at how well it does work. I plan to monitor the temp in the shop and how much it affects the power bill to get a good understanding how much it cost to keep the shop at a 62 degrees at a min.
As for the truck, I am finally back to work on it. Just about got the bottom of the cab by in the door area done. I would have it done but we ran out of gas, damnit. So this week we will have this door area done and this weekend i plan to have the other area below the passenger door done and start on the header area inside and out. |
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#309 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Update:
So Driver side lower door area and cab floor are repaired. Now onto less involved passenger side. First pic is completed driver side Rest are the passenger side after i removed the stock lower cab door panel |
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#310 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
You can see the dent in the stock under area shown in the last two pics. Metal all seems to be decent, no real rusted through areas, just surface rust that i will coat with Por 15. The dent is my trouble area. May need to get new panel for that. I was thinking of trying to fix it by hammer and dolly, but maybe just a replacement panel would be easier.
Suggestions? |
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#311 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Well i ordered the complete lower side of the passenger door area for the cab from LMC, it is on the way....
As for the passenger side, i did a little work. grey pic is as it started out... Thanks to CaptainFab for the door pillars.... (shown in blue) Waiting on the panel from LMC... and then the gas filler neck fill in panel from POL |
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#312 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,966
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Looks good.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#313 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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#314 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 2,070
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Nice patch work. Lookin' good.
__________________
Sanity'66 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=515110 Long bed, Fleetside, Small back window I've Done So Much, With So Little, For So Long, That Now I Can Do Anything With Nothing. ![]() |
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#315 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Thank you sir! I appreciate the comments. Sometimes I think, this is not my forte, I have never done this type of repair but I figure just go for it. If you screw it up, fix it later. If you never try, how will you ever know if you can?! And with this site, the many great "how to's" on here, examples shown and such, i really think just about anyone with basic mechanical skills can do most of the stuff here, maybe not everything, but most. My biggest demon to fight is patients with the fixes. I just want to run and get it done... but that never ends well.
Just like now, i assumed the passenger side was ok..... ya after some scratching and cutting..... just had to order more repair panels.... damnit... LOL BUT Classic Industries has up to 30% 229.00 or more now, so patch panels and 7 rib serpentine AC Compressor.... i met the 229.00 and got up to 30% off! not much on the panels, but compressor was 179.99 now 129.99! 50.00 off. This only means that i am on hold again for a bit for these panels to show up. That is ok, i need to clean the shop anyways.... lol |
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#316 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,966
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
You're doing quality work & learning as you go so you're getting better w/each task.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#317 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Beautiful BC, Canada, eh?!
Posts: 2,228
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
You and me both man - I've never done rust repair of this magnitude before; I'm totally learning as I go.
I have a saying that keeps me inspired to try things for myself: "I can pay a professional to screw it up, or I can screw it up myself for free."
__________________
1961 Apache: "Grabber Orange" Shortboxed, pancake, step-notch, air-ride, boosted-LS 1977 Silverado: Shortboxed & dropped, potato-potato V8 Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint): The ultimate engine swap: 5.7L in a 1.0L bag Lotus Super 7 Replica: Scratch-built street-legal rollerskate |
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#318 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Now that is a great way to think of it! I like that, I may borrow that saying, but credit you for the saying.
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#319 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Ok, so here are pics of the passenger side floor area adventure... sucks that I had to remove alot more than I had originally hoped, BUT in this case, it was good because I got to learn that just because it looks ok, what lies under may not be, and it was not as all, but short it will be!
Pics of the floor cut out and then the vent box area cut out and new replacement installed. Today I plan to weld up the rest of the bent box and get the floor panel installed and welded up. Then wait for the kick panel replacement and the bottom tear drop shaped outside door pillar panel to come in, then get installed. After that, just replace the door stop area on the door pillar with replacement one from CaptainFab. This will finish the floor, FINALLY. LOL Then it s weld in the hole for the old gas tank, start on the roof pinch weld area, inside and out, above the passenger side. |
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#320 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
vent box area
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#321 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Question: How or what tool do you use to cut straight lines on exhaust or round pipe? Specifically when you are needing to make some slight bends in straight pipe, you can cut slight angles in the cut then spin one of the pipes just slightly to start the pipe in a new direction with a little bend? Thanks guys.
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#322 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Manlius, NY
Posts: 1,698
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Love your build. You can come mess up my rust repair anytime!
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#323 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
Lol, honestly, if i was close i would come help. I am not a big fan of rust repair, BUT it is necessary.... unfortunately. |
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#324 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,966
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
You can also partially slice through the tube w/o going all the way through & tip the tubing over. This helps keep things in place easier. If one slice isn't enough, compress the gap & slice through a 2nd/3rd time as needed. In the end, you can slice all the way through for a Butt weld or just fill in the gap.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#325 |
60-66 Nut
![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 23,247
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
A quick easy way to mark a straight line around a pipe or tube is to cut a strip of heavy paper or poster board say 1-1/2 or 2" wide long enough to wrap around the circumference of the pipe. Wrap it around the pipe, lining up the edges and either hold it or secure it with tape. Then mark the pipe using the edge.
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