Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[Dan in Pasadena]

Oh, thanks for posting Rick.

I used the brushed-on Hammered gray on some steel in my garage and I did it with NO prep. This was big I beams that were already primed. I literally dusted them off and rolled it on. That stuff is HAARD when it dries thoroughly. Just cause the little foam roller was loaded, I put some on my exposed truck frame. Again, it had light surface rust and I just took a dry rag and wiped it off. I rolled a couple areas one coat only and it has been in the DIRECT sun for months, exposed to rain, etc - looks great, no rust coming through. I'm very impressed with that stuff. I don't know if the rattle can stuff is as good but the brush on stuff is great.

[dubie]

yeah know what would "do it" for that grille is some 2K clear. You can buy cans of Spray Max 2 part clear in a rattle can for $20 at just about any paint shop. I know Coast Airbrush sells it. I've used this product on many of my airbrush pieces and it's amazing stuff. You could do 2 full coats over that chrome paint with 1 can of clear and I bet it would give it that extra shine you're looking for

[Dan in Pasadena]

dubie,

I don't know about the stuff you recommend but I can tell you for sure when I had the real good luck with the Rusto Brite Metallic Aluminum on another project before, I thought I'd try putting Rusto gloss clear on it and it killed the brightness. It made it look like just silver paint. I ended up re-sanding and respraying it.

[Low Elco]

Finally found you over here! Grille looks great! Love the truck.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

...over here... Love the truck.

Hi Elco. Did you see me on HAMB or on Garage Journal (both)?

Thanks for the words on the truck.

There are WAAY nicer trucks on here than mine. I'm almost to the point where I can jump in it and drive it ANYwhere - IF I ever had to.

After this, I'll relocate the gas tank, put seat belts in, lower it o nthe stock suspension - on the cheap, then "prettify it" - get chrome window frames, grille, etc and wait for the day I have time to blow it apart for truly good paint.

But in the mean time I want something that's obviously not "restored" but is on its way and that someone takes pride in.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Rudy.
Hey, since I've got the attention of you guys. I don't think I mentioned it here but as I was looking over my front end I noticed I have 5 leaves on the driver's side and 6 on the passenger's side!! And it seems to sit level. I've gotta move it around to double check but short of just pulling one, what is there to do? It's not like you can go buy a single matching leaf. I know I could buy new lowering leaf packs...for like $399 a set!

I also noticed there are big chucks of rubber sorta "squishing" out of the shackle where the pin goes through. I assume this is some kinda sleeve to isolate vibration(?)
Can anyone tell me if I can just support the truck/shackle with my floor jack and drive this out with the pin by hand? Or will I need to pull the whole leaf pack to press fit whatever these rubber parts are? I'd think fixing this would make a huge ride/noise difference.

[pgf545]

The paint looks good to me in the pictures. It is pretty easy to paint over if it is to bad and repaint it color of some sort. Also did you get the motor to idle? You might check out the small air bleeds...the are inside the air cleaner and are brass color. They will get plugged with trash and stuff. Just take a little carb cleaner, spray them and that should help the idle. Also double check the nuts holding down the carb to the manifold and all the vacuum ports to make sure those little bastards didn't chew up those...lol. Good luck

Bernie

[dubie]

that rubber is the seal for the grease. They come included with a new shackle kit. You can jack up your axle to relieve the strain, remove the carriage bolt and nut, remove the shackles and then replace your seals. Put it all back together in reverse order and grease it up. If you need to remove the pin, it just threads in and out and the bushings are driven out pretty easily with a deep socket or piece of pipe and a hammer

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by dubie

that rubber is the seal for the grease. They come included with a new shackle kit. You can jack up your axle to relieve the strain, remove the carriage bolt and nut, remove the shackles and then replace your seals. Put it all back together in reverse order and grease it up. If you need to remove the pin, it just threads in and out and the bushings are driven out pretty easily with a deep socket or piece of pipe and a hammer

Obviously, I wish I could find a link to a D.I.Y. with photos on this but it SOUNDS like its fairly easy. Does the pin thread in like usual? Left - loose-y, right-y tight-y?

Heading over to the Truck Shop website to price a "shackle kit"

[Dan in Pasadena]

Yeah, I actually DID get it to start right up and idle fine. Basically, it was from not having driven it or even starting it in months! Once I got her started and put it in a high idle for a few minutes it settled right down.

I did notice that the accelerator is binding and it doesn't return to a true idle without sort pulling up on the pedal with my toe! I'm pretty sure I just need (like EVERYTHING on the truck) to take it off, wire wheel it for rust/neglect, paint as needed, and adjust/lube everything.

[dubie]

A really easy fix, and yes, the pin comes as normal. Classic trucks magazine did a how to on replacing the pins, it's in their mono leaf swap tech article on their site
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[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, so it looks like $18 for a "kit" made up of a bushing and a bolt.

http://www.truckandcarshop.com/41-57car/c41_126.html

So I assume that means two per leaf spring, $36 for both ends of the front leaf springs?

I think I'll go ahead and get this and also get the Teflon that goes between the leaves, pull them and paint them. Then that's done - check. Move on to the next thing.

[dubie]

This is the kit I used on mine.
http://www.performanceonline.com/195...n-shackle-kit/

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, so that kit does one side front & rear, right?

Here's a view of my driver's side leaf pack. 5 leaves and note the "clip" - for lack of the proper name holding the leaves together:



Now note the same clip on the passenger's side:


They're totally different than each other. Not only that but the driver's side U bolt extends 1/2" beyond the nut. On the passenger side, the nut is physically longer and there are multiple washers stacked up under it and no U bolt hangs out beyond it.

I'm suspecting the leaf pack on one side or the other came from another car or truck! So now I'm wondering if I should consider going with new, lowering leaf packs or possibly a monoleaf? So, while looking things over online I found THIS kit:
http://www.performanceonline.com/195...-Shocks-19057/

It's a lot of money but everything would be matching and new.

[dubie]

definitely the way to go. It costs way less to buy that kit than to source the components out individually, trust me on this one. I wish I would have found their site a few weeks earlier

[NEWFISHER]

Dan, your build is comming along great. I replaced all leaf packs, shacles, bushings etc on the burb and couldn't be happier, it rides super smooth. I get comments from passengers that they can not believe its a straight axle rig. I think you are money and time ahead buying all new even though it seems spendy now.
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[Dan in Pasadena]

Yeah, I'm leaning toward just biting the bullet and paying the $1200. I wonder if there's a % off sale upcoming or anything?

Of course this makes me think "I'm 1/2 way to the price of an IFS system" but then I think do I really want that? I tussle with the question constantly and I usually remember that I'd have to buy a tilt column, arrange (pay) for a qualified welder, get a PS pump & brackets...the whole "slippery slope" thing.

Where if I get this kit it can all be done by me in the driveway in a weekend...or three! I'd better start counting my pennies. I'll have to buy a king pin rebuild kit & caster shims. I already have a CPP front disc kit so that means I need the frame mount dual master cylinder & bracket. And of course new lines, bender, flaring tool, clips, yada, yada. Makes my wallet hurt just thinking of it all!
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[dubie]

i hear ya bud, I just bought and installed all the parts you listed. And you're right, for the money I have invested in a dropped solid axle truck, I could have bought and installed a IFS from hub to hub. But, I wanted the nostalgic look and feel to it, that's the only reason I decided on the solid axle route.

[Clarance J]

Hello Dan. On my 55 when I took the springs a part to clean and paint them I saw that at each end of the springs was rubbing on the bottom of the one above it. From the factory the springs are sheared and stacked and the ends are not cleaned up. I just took a grinder and put a small radius on each end and with poly liner it rides much better. By the way, Great truck you have there.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by dubie

.,,But, I wanted the nostalgic look and feel to it, that's the only reason I decided on the solid axle route.

Yeah, I don't think there's any reasonable person that would argue the straight axle is as comfortable or can be MADE as comfortable as IFS. But these trucks are truly OLD now. They're approaching 60 years. You don't see guys with hi boys running IFS; well extremely few. They've got dropped axles, split bones, hairpins, transverse rear springs, etc. they make the original suspension work as well as it can be made to. This is always my thought when I think of IFS.

ClaranceJ, Hadn't ever thought of the fact that the leaves are probably sheared and had a sharp edge. I definitely plan to use the Teflon between leaves. Chamfering the edges is an excellent tip, thanks.
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[Dan in Pasadena]

Dubie, did you use a dropped axle AND lowering springs? I ask cause I notice the front spring pack (not monoleaf) says you can get a 2.5" lower spring for our trucks.

My thought was to start with that (to minimize $$ outlay to start) but if I want it lower; and I probably will, I could add a 2 or 3" dropped axle from Sid's afterward.
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[dubie]

yep, I'm running 3" dropped axle and 3" drop mono leafs up front with a 6" drop reversed eye mono leaf in the rear. You can buy Posies that are a multi pack leaf spring that lowers the truck 2 - 2.5 inches

[Dan in Pasadena]

Did you go with the modified drag link & whatever to minimize bump steer? If so, does it steer ok?

I know about Posie's Super Sliders but I like the POL kit above and with the poly liners ill get the same result - easily sliding springs.
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[Dan in Pasadena]

I painted the backside of the front bumper today after letting the Rust Reformer dry a couple days. I used Rustoleum Hammered in silver. Only one coat and it covered great.

I really do like this stuff. I'll let it dry a couple days and it'll be rock hard.




Contrasted to what it looked like before and it's a night and day difference:

[Dan in Pasadena]

Also, I just didn't like the mint look of the Rustoleum Sage - it's a complete misnomer. In gloss it really looks great but in the satin its an entirely different color, not at all like the gloss.

Not sure how clear this photo will show it but I stopped mid re-paint to show the new color I chose, Rustoleum Oregano in satin vs. the other side in "Sage." I like it a lot. Almost an army type green.