57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

put the serpentine belt on before you get excited about a hose that fits! experience talking here.

Hey joedog
You mean for lower hose >? Yes --- good point I need to order that .... pic looks like there should be ok clearance ....


https://www.ictbillet.com/catalog/pr.../category/163/

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Hey joedog
You mean for lower hose >? Yes --- good point I need to order that .... pic looks like there should be ok clearance ....


https://www.ictbillet.com/catalog/pr.../category/163/

yes that should be fine, I am used to the belt going outboard there on the tensioner, not inboard like that one.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

yes that should be fine, I am used to the belt going outboard there on the tensioner, not inboard like that one.

Thx for keeping me in check and thinking of things I would typically just not think about.

Bought htis thermostat housing (swivel) at 45 deg.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Chevy-...72.m2749.l2649

[FAKKY]

So thermostat from ebay is great - except the housing is about 2mm too small which means I cant get the OEM gasket/thermostat in ... its too tight.

So options

1) I did manage to cut the original thermostat housing to a point I think I can tig weld it.
Wish I had tried to begin with - but didnt think a grinder cutting wheel would have enough depth and I dont own a bandsaw. There was just enough depth to get it done.

2) Clock and mark the ebay swivel housing where I want it ..... then weld it so no leaks through the housing. Then use a small rubber gasket and gasket sealer to seal the thermostat inside ?

Thoughts ?





OEM housing cut and rotated

[FAKKY]

AC blower in ..... kinda sucky job with that rear bracket and this was a bit bigger than I thought .... but going to swing with it.

[FAKKY]

So was looking over this thread on the condensor setups ....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=655540

Im going to be having a small pusher fan on front of condenser. I think I will need to pull out the core crossover support bits in order to fit all that ..... anyone see any issues ?

How much room is there for clearance until you hit something like the bumper or front grill etc Im guessing quite a bit ?

[FAKKY]

Knocked that out ....... but put a big dent in radiator at same time when hammer slipped ... always something where I dont pay atttention.





Not 100% sure how to test for leak without a lot of air and a bunch of plugs .... probably cross fingers ...... and let her get up to temp before i put on any sheet meal front end.

[FAKKY]

Not sure on pedal height - think its like ~2" too high ..... is there a way to get a measurement to set properly or just by what feels good for you.

So both will probably have to be modified.

[FAKKY]

Part of problem with the brake pedal is the hydrobbost push rod. Its really not perfectly straight and just a biit too long.



I think most guys just cut and shorten and reweld ...... I have an adustable head if I can thread the rod ....... not sure I really want to pull it and try and get it back in clean ...
plus if the threading on rod goes sideways

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...thread-323472/

[FAKKY]

Clocked and tig welded the thermostat housing.
Was such a crap job with my welding .... even after cleanup .... not sure if I feel good about using it.



Kind of blew into the seal area there.



Definitely a day of 1 step forward two steps back .......

[FAKKY]

Ac condenser fabbed up for cross member fitment.





pusher fan.

[FAKKY]

The #6 and #8 Ac lines for condensor are tight around crossmember .... thinking I might have to go with

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rigerant-lines

Who knows of a good reasoably priced 5/8 tube bender ?
or
A long 45 degrees beadlock fitting
This will be too short

http://shorturl.at/jlrzK

[FAKKY]

Finished my 6AN lines for the transmisison in/out and cooler.
I like to support ICTBILLET - good prices and customer service






Pressure TEST

Got the upper radiator hose done ....



I grabbed a 1.75->1.5 reducer for the lower radiator ..... need to join the hose.
Anyone know if Cold Mill 1.5" OD tubular steel is ok - or will it rust to quick ?
Paint internal? Get something else ?

[joedoh]

i would be afraid of galvanic corrosion, heated water in dissimilar metals ruins the weaker metal. coolant helps, it has corrosion inhibitors, but its still a problem without an anode of sacrificial metal in there.

the shape you need doesnt look a lot different than the one I use. maybe try it? might be able to get rid of the reducer too.

[FAKKY]

Thanks Joedoh - 1.5" aluminium, should be good then right - since the heads and the thermostat housing are aluminium ?

Didnt get much done today - had a family deal. Just pulled the hydroboost to cut off the pushrod and die thread it to 3/28-24 and attach adjustable linkage. Its still too long and now sort of have

a) too high a brake pedal (still)
b) less travel - borderline interference as it moves into the MC bore.

I think Im going to lengthen the rod side by shortening the actual adjustable adjustable linkage (shiny gray part) by cuttign it in half and redrilling the brake pedal pin.



If that fails .... I'll have to pull the bracket itself and reweld either the pedal offset or the bracket part for the pushrod.

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

If that fails .... I'll have to pull the bracket itself and reweld either the pedal offset or the bracket part for the pushrod.

You should be able to come up with a shorter clevis, it would give you more adjustability and allow extra room for a jam nut.

[FAKKY]

Great minds think a like

"I think Im going to lengthen the rod side by shortening the actual adjustable adjustable linkage (shiny gray part) by cuttign it in half and redrilling the brake pedal pin."

I primed the engine for the 3rd time --- each time hitting 40psi --- but never got oil out of rockers ...... think Im going to call it ok though as its not a new engine so doubt theirs any oil galley alignmnet/feed issues ..... I've heard it can take up to 3 minutes of engine crank before oil feeds.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOUhz6nBfwc


Now to finish off the coolant hoses ....... secure teh transmisison in place with some drilled holes ..... go get some fuel .... check everything over and wire here up dodgy like to start it .......

[dsraven]

did you try turning the engine to a different spot so the lifters would be sitting differently on the cam lobes and possibly oil would then flow through? worth a try?

[FAKKY]

Yep.
Did it 3 times - each time hitting 40 psi. Rotated inbetween ..... same thought.
Not too worried now that I read more on it .... just was hoping to see it

Got the trans bolted in .....
Got the 1.5 lower coupling welded with a lip on each end for coolant ...
Got the Oil pressure sensor swapped out at back to dakota version - just because - claw wrench good here

Now just left to do 3-4 grounds and run power to the fuel tank and get fuel.
Unfortunately Im going to have to wait a bit until I get back from work ...

Ordered a heater line bend to block of the heater lines at thermostat.

slowly ....

[dsraven]

Dont forget a lock but too.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Dont forget a lock but too.

ds -whats that - assume you mean the locking pin mechanism ?
I was thinking if I cant reuse the stock one I'd probably just end up with a bolt and nut (nylon lock).

Once its attached it cant rotate.

[dsraven]

I mean a lock/jam nut on the threaded shaft so it cant work loose or self adjust. Haven't worked on a htdroboost in a while, but doesnt that rod turn? Not locked in that position, correct?

[FAKKY]

Gothya.
I guess technically it could rotate in the bore housing (the thread part) as its free rotating in the "cup" (ball end), even if the attachment is pinned in.

I'll add a jamb nut or some locktite.

[FAKKY]

new toy arrived today

[FAKKY]

Note to self for future.
Put the fuel tank hose and sending unit ON the tank before assembly ..... will save you having to pull it out from truck and doing it all over again.