67 Camaro Build

[7dee2]

While waiting for our dyno appointment at Kidd Performance, I took a minute to fit the dipstick on the 489. The nice thing is that both engines (489 & 511) have the same oil pan and universal kit. Perfect time to set up both of them off the 489 which has not had the oil level messed with yet.

To get to the correct level with the Moroso oil pan the tube needs to be trimmed losing the flair which doesn’t really work with the supplied compression sleeve fittings.
https://www.moroso.com/universal-dipstick-kit25970/

[ghackett1]

Nice project, here’s a pic of my 68 ragtop. Frame off restoration completed in 2000.

[7dee2]

Thank you, your 68 is pretty darn sharp ghackett1.



It’s 11/7/22 the day before our dyno appointment at Kidd Performance up in Twin Falls, ID and it looks like we’ll have some weather to deal with in the morning. Weird talking about snow in the (record heat) summertime but that’s where the timeline is right now. I’ve got the 489 tied down and all wrapped up for the weather they’re predicting.

Here’s an old part I wasn’t sure would happen for our Day 2, Grumpy’s Toy, Motion mash-up car. After looking for years and giving up a few times after just missing making a deal. That is a real deal Lakewood 3-point bolt in rollbar, it came all the way from Cleveland, OH. Funny there was a time you couldn't give these things away, now they they command a premium.

[joesscamaro]

They are some solid numbers and definitely will get the job done!

[Dieselwrencher]

The engine sounds great glad to see you're getting the dash gap fixed. Good thing it wasn't painted with the interior 90% installed.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by joesscamaro

They are some solid numbers and definitely will get the job done!

Thanks Joe, I’m really stoked about the outcome.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

The engine sounds great glad to see you're getting the dash gap fixed. Good thing it wasn't painted with the interior 90% installed.

Thanks Ryan, no kidding you’ve got that right!




The windshield is back in (and the front clip) for another test fit of the trim and exterior panels. The new lower left trim piece is showing minor damage at this point (looks kinked, not sure if it came this way or just parts getting screwed up during the process). I’ve got another complete repro set coming for the final assembly. The good news is the dash top to glass gap is looking so much better than it was.

[7dee2]

For comparison, here’s what an original car looks like in this area. This particular 68 belongs to a friend of mine, other original cars I've looked at are very similar.

[7dee2]

The Camaro is going under the knife some more, surgery for the lower trim to the cowl vent panel. And yes, the right fender did get the same treatment, moving it back and up to match the left side.

[7dee2]

Here’s progress with the top side of the right fender done, Kelly is making these parts fit absolutely perfecto!

I located another Stewart Warner Bullet with the original foot. I've got an NOS one (in the box) with better chrome that’s missing the foot so this was a great find. The goal is a cowl-mounted mechanical fuel pressure gauge setup like the last two pics (borrowed pics of Grady Burch’s Day 2 69 COPO Camaro).

[CG]

Saw this and it reminded me of your build.

[7dee2]

Hey CG, as the advertisement claims, Lakewood, and possibly Deputy Fife were committed to complete safety!



A last look before all the sexy green side glass goes in a big box to wait for final assembly.

[7dee2]

The Camaro has moved back to the paint shop for more blocking.

[7dee2]

And a little more blocking of our lumpy baby! Chris is doing a great job, the body lines are sharp and all the panels are flat. Perhaps the car should be painted black to show off the excellent bodywork. Mrs. 7dee2 is still wanting red which would look great also, I don’t know, decisions, decisions.

[7dee2]

The car is off the blocks and after spending some extra time on the stinger hood it’s ready to be moved back to the other shop. This round of blocking is done!

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

I vote for Tahoe Turquiose myself. I love that one year only color on 67s. Plus it works great with a stinger hood and you dont see it very often.


Deepwater Blue or Nantucket blue looked good as well in 67. Tripoli Turquoise in 68 look neat as well.

[KevinK7]

Looking good, still following along, eagerly awaiting to see paint on this thing

[joesscamaro]

Same here...looking for the paint update!

[Lost in the 60's]

Wondering why is he laying out the stripe on the primer ??? Shouldn't that be after final color application and under the clear ? Making a lot of work for himself to mask that off for color.

[KevinK7]

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

Wondering why is he laying out the stripe on the primer ??? Shouldn't that be after final color application and under the clear ? Making a lot of work for himself to mask that off for color.

...just a guess, but I suspect to know where to drill for the (SS) emblems.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by KevinK7

Looking good, still following along, eagerly awaiting to see paint on this thing

Originally Posted by joesscamaro

Same here...looking for the paint update!

Yep, the wait was just killing me too! You know, just a little over a month ago I posted on my old K30 Build thread some recent pics trailering the painted Camaro. Different topic over there but it’s a sneak peak of it going somewhere for something, more to come on that later. The build thread is still running roughly 8 months behind the actual build.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...postcount=1218

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

Wondering why is he laying out the stripe on the primer ??? Shouldn't that be after final color application and under the clear ? Making a lot of work for himself to mask that off for color.

Originally Posted by KevinK7

...just a guess, but I suspect to know where to drill for the (SS) emblems.

Great question, the stripe was added after color and buried in clear. Kevin is also correct, Chris marked everything including the SS emblem locations (dimpled) to be drilled later. I do recall that he also wanted a reference of where the stripe went from panel to panel (for some precise measurements?). I believe this was the last time the front end was bolted together before paint.




Thanks for following along you guys it’s a good time documenting the car coming together. This is a little story I'm calling "My original plan was." I intended to bring the car home, install the rollbar, drill the emblem holes, weld the firewall and seat pans, and place the shell back on the rotisserie. Excellent plan, wasn't it? Only issue: Chris and Kelly weren't too fond of my one-person, four-post lift method that involved grabbing the roof and quarters with ratchet straps to attach it to the rotisserie.

Also, as previously posted, Chris wanted another round of blocking with the car altogether. Once this was done it was a good time to lay out the bumblebee stripe with the SS fender emblems simultaneously. Not to mention (but I will), because I'm slow and the body shop is very busy it did take slightly over six months to get the car back into process the last time, I brought it home.

So, to save time and possibly hours of body rework it was agreed earlier that the car would stay. I’d come in and assist in placing the shell back on my rotisserie when the time came, using their 2-post lift. That is exactly what happened next, the front clip was removed and the body shell went back onto the rotisserie. Went fairly smoothly in my opinion, just a few hours one morning.

The good news is that the car is another step closer to paint. In hindsight doing it this way probably cost a little more but, with the time savings (?) and Chris and Kelly’s skills I’ve got no complaints!

The End.

A few days later I stopped back by and found they’d repaired the trunk floor (hanger holes created by the exhaust shop earlier, see link). I’m fairly sure Chris will take advantage of the rotisserie angles to block some more on the roof as well.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=288

[7dee2]

I’ve been waiting for this! With the body on the rotisserie, it’s time to rebuild the worn-out front steering/suspension, finish some other subframe repairs, add a fast steering and disc brake upgrade, as well as prep and paint the diff. Just in time, I was starting to run out of Camaro stuff to mess with.

[CG]

Found another Grumpy pic. Looks like they are running four abreast!

I haven't kept up much on the board lately ... I hope you're going with white. Maybe its already been decided?

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

When you remove the control arms, just sell the uppers and the entire brake system and buy Global West tubular upper control arms and their disc brake set up as a package. The original lowers are fine, but when replacing the rubber bushings, install their bushings in that too. Better handling geometry built into the tubular arms.
The rear axle has been highly modified from original too. It appears the frame rails have been modified for the 4 link, coil over modification, but if the channels with all the holes on the frame are for the shocks to mount to, I hope there is another bar connecting them together and mounting to the floor pan for strength.

Mine with the GW uppers and disc conversion. Sorry about the huge pic, don't know how to downsize that.

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

1 other item, I hope you are eliminating the throttle rod to the carb and going to a cable. I have a Lokar pedal in black to match the other pedals without the bling looking out of place. It is the Midnight series.
But what I found when I added this same pedal to my Chevelle is, the added stress of that set up cracked the firewall where it mounts and the Camaro was already cracked there. I made a reinforcement plate from 1/8" steel for the Camaro and welded it on.

Nice upgrades and build btw, I am aware of the poor steering geometry and considered updated control arms or perhaps the Dick Guldstrand modifications. Here’s an interesting read. https://pozziracing.com/first_gen_suspension_geome.htm

All of the used takeoff parts were part of the deal with Kelly (Perks shop manager) when he purchased our original body. If I don’t use it, it goes to him to use or dispose of.

You’re correct on the rear suspension, that was a tough decision for me one thing led to another (link). https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=136
And yes, the lateral bar is removable and out for floor access at this point. I’m focused on trying to hide the newer technology that’s finding its way into our car. It's more of a D2Restomod, heavy on the D2Resto part.

Besides, I’m running skinnies up front.

Originally Posted by CG

Found another Grumpy pic. Looks like they are running four abreast!

I haven't kept up much on the board lately ... I hope you're going with white. Maybe its already been decided?

That’s a cool picture, just love Grumpy’s Toys! Yep, Ermine White it is, I’m sticking to the original vision for the car.




My workbench has been an absolute drop zone lately, or is that all the time? First up, start pulling cotter pins and giving all the fasteners a good shot of WD40.

[Lost in the 60's]

Once aftermarket control arms came around with the Guldstrand mod built in, that modification faded away quickly. I'm surprised you came up with the Pozzi article, I haven't seen that come up in a search in many years, nice digging...
Just do the tubulars, much easier than cutting and welding on the sub frame. With the rear already heavily modified, matching that on the front will be expected. My resto-mod has turned more that way too, as time passes, but hey, you'll have a better car as a result.
If you're set on cutting, consider getting a different frame. Yours is a very early one and would bring a nice income from a 100% original restorer looking for it, just don't tell Kelly about the swap...

[Lost in the 60's]

Just dawned on me, are you familiar with the threaded rod compression for disassembling that suspension without it turning into a bomb ? Yes, people use the finger style compressors, but they aren't as safe, or easy to use.