'50 chevy 3100

[Matt_50]

Got it running for a few minutes until water temp rose and dropped. Fan came on like it's supposed too and I'm very happy with how quiet it is and how much air it pulled.

Headlights work but I need to check on driver side turn signal.

Used old oil sender with new gauge. I guess it's not compatible because it maxes out. Unless there's another problem. With how close I am to firewall, I'm not sure how to reach in and change it. Is there another spot I could use for the sender?

[Matt_50]

Ok, pulled it out and tested it on the battery.


Ground wire to ground.

B wire to positive.

Gauge then maxed out to 80.

I then added T to ground and it went to 0.

[Matt_50]

Not sure if it makes a difference but with ground wire to ground and positive taken off... I put the T wire to positive and it maxed out too.

[Matt_50]

And sincevwe are talking about the oil pressure gauge. Can someone help me verify what these three things are. The one behind distributor is my sender right? But I have a two prong thing above oil filter and I have some other thing on passenger side above pan. Has a funny plug but the single wire just hangs.

[57tailgater]

If you're talking about a SBC, the one by the distributor would be your oil pressure. The one by the filter looks like it may be for a low oil pressure warning light with the two connections. Not sure what the other one is - may be an oil temp but not sure what gets monitored at that port? Can't see the connection well enough.

[dsraven]

distributor fitting-oil pressure sender
above oil filter fitting-also oil pressure port
fitting ahead of starter-knock sensor-goes right into water jacket and pre-electronic spark timing engines simply had a block drain or a pipe plug in that spot-used on engines with electronic spark timing modules. some shops would simply remove the est distributor and install a regular distributor to eliminate the module when problems arose.

use the port by the oil filter for oil pressure gauge if that has enough room and not gonna fry the sender or wiring with exhaust heat. you can then simply leave the old sender in the top port as a plug. run the wire a bit longer and connect to the new location. lots of older vehicles, especially trucks, used that lower location for an oil pressure sender.

[Matt_50]

Thanks guys. I'll need to find an adapter or extension for the oil filter spot. Make it stick out a bit to put the sender on.

[Matt_50]

Turns out I can't get a custom braided steel brake line made here in town. Went all over town. I'll have to call around tomorrow to online places.

Did get driveshaft dropped off to be shortened. Also ordered a column shifter kit.

[Matt_50]

Got a brake line coming from Off-road Design. If I had routed the hard line differently this might have been easier, but oh well.

After some searches on the web I got a swaging tool from home depot to do the parking cable. Got lucky, 30 dollar tool. Hard to find and when the lady who was helping me did find it she knocked half price off because it was a bit scratched up. Lol I wanted was a sku number and she marked it down.

[Matt_50]

Just double checking... but to block off oil or coolant ports or adapt fittings or extend for the sender, I can just go to home depot and get brass plugs and fittings right?

[Matt_50]

Since I wanted to block off unused sensor ports and maybe move the oil sender, I thought I'd take off the extra stuff and go to home depot. While I was under the truck I was able to reach up above the trans and get a wrench on the oil sender behind the distributor.

I could only move about a 1/4 of an inch, and it took the better part of an hour to replace one sender but I got it!! Hooked up the gauge and I'm good to go.

[dsraven]

nice. forward momentum
if using a sealer on the threads use a liquid style and not teflon tape. it has a way of getting threaded off into the oil galleries.

[8man]

Nice! You'll be driving soon.

[dsraven]

does your gauge work properly now?

[Matt_50]

I think I'm taking more steps forward than back lately lol

Took back the swaging tool to home depot. Yep, popped right off. I did a bunch of searching and ordered a c10 parking brake cable that was 8 inches longer than what I originally wanted. But I'm pretty sure I can make this difference up by moving the mount spot back on the frame.

[Matt_50]

As far as I can tell. Read about 60 pounds at start up. Went down to 50 after a while.

This good?

I don't remember what the gauge read in the c10. I know it's a newer crate motor with maybe 9000 miles on it.

[Matt_50]

I was a little concerned at first but found this thread.


https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...50-290.395682/

Maybe I need to run it longer than just a few minutes? I've ran it just enough to check leaks, and test electrical, and play with linkage.

[joedoh]

10 psi per 1000 rpm is the LOW limit, if you had a blockage and super high oil pressure it would have already turned into a knock or a squeal. I say run it!

[Matt_50]

Column shifter installed! Took almost 3 hours of fussing with it it and checking and double checking.

[8man]

When is that test drive?

[Matt_50]

Well, I hope to pick up the driveshaft Monday or Tuesday. The rear steel braided brake line I ordered is supposed to be here this next week, the same for the parking brake cable and rear lights.

So I'm hoping within next two weeks!

[Matt_50]

I got to thinking... my master cylinder hasn't had any fluid in it for 18 months. What are the chances it isn't good? And the booster should be good though right?

Thinking I might get a new MC just to have all new brake stuff. The donor one from c10 should be just fine or is there a better option? Donor had same rear end and disc brakes too.

[Matt_50]

Picked up driveshaft today. Pretty quick install.

[Matt_50]

Parking brake cable in! I had to get another cable, pretty cheap though, because swaging a new end didn't work. After some remeasuring I got another 84 c10 cable and this time made a bracket and put it in the right spot. Unfortunately measuring twice and cut once didn't work me lol and I had to cutvit and reweld the bracket.

Parts used.

Parts from donor, 1984 c10 long bed.

Parking brake cable assembly. Mounted just like it was in c10.

Cable for same c10, overall length 89.5 inches.

Rear axle from 84 along with the parking brake cables that came with it.

Rear cable bracket from c10 used. On c10 the bracket was mounted under frame but I moved it to inside of frame due to difference in leaf springs.

Lastly the ugly bracket I made. It works, now I will paintbit when I get some more black paint.

[joedoh]

I wouldnt worry about the master cylinder after 18 months, but make sure you bench bleed it before putting it in.