** YOUNG FRANKENSTEIN ** The truck Chevrolet should have built.

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

have you decided to ''mock up'' the bed

I got on another thread yesterday that was discussing how bad it was to notch your frame from a strength standpoint. I posed a question about my hot rod pickup bed situation and one of the guys who was an engineer had a better solution and did a cad drawing of it. It involves a fair bit of work, but totally solves my frame kick up problem without having to cut on the frame any. Brilliant, thanks a lot John (Lakeroadster). I will be taking his idea and running with it soon.

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

i wonder if you have the first 67-72 chevy truck with a late model Hydro-formed frame ???? Loving this build

Probably.

I know for a fact I have the first 72 CREW CAB with a late model Hydro-formed frame!

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by drewskiren

I got on another thread yesterday that was discussing how bad it was to notch your frame from a strength standpoint, and I posed a question about my hot rod pickup bed situation and one of the guys who was an engineer had a better solution and did a cad drawing of it. It involves a fair bit of work, but totally solves my frame kick up problem without having to cut on the frame any. Brilliant, thanks a lot John (Lakeroadster). I will be taking his idea and running with it soon.

Could you put up a link to the other thread so we can follow along?

[67cheby]

you can always just raise your bed floor the way i did mine and it keeps it pretty stock looking

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

you can always just raise your bed floor the way i did mine and it keeps it pretty stock looking

I was planning on having to do that, but really didn't want all that work and have less depth in my box. I wouldn't want to lose more than 2 inches of depth, but that would be a ton of work for 2 inches and still not enough. I'd rather only have to implement 1 solution for the total drop I need. I had already scrutinized your thread on this extensively, nice work.

Here is the link to the other thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=393867&page=5

[67cheby]

yes... that indeed does look like a great plan with lots less work, i think you have a winner !!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by drewskiren

Thanks - The toolbox is a Cornwell that I scored on eBay 2 years ago. The poor guy bought it new 5 years ago and paid over 10 grand. I won his eBay auction for $1600. Needless to say I went the next day to pick it up!

I cannot beleve he didn't put some kinda reserve on it! Musta been really hurtin for cash.. Good score! I'd give up all 3 of my rollaways and top chests for that.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice progress on the frame! That is a great solution! Too bad he quit giving advice, he knows his stuff.

[Rokcrln]

I really like the newer frame, I have wanted to do this for some time now. My last work truck was a 2000 3/4T chevy with a 5.3 and I turned it back into our shop with 265,000 miles after only having to replace 1 fuel pump at 80K and a water pump at 210K. Even the brakes were the originals and I towed allot with that truck and over loaded it on a regular basis. Great platform for a daily driver.

Originally Posted by drewskiren

A boy we mentor lent a hand.

I think I just solved my labor problem!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[78bronzechariot]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I cannot beleve he didn't put some kinda reserve on it! Musta been really hurtin for cash.. Good score! I'd give up all 3 of my rollaways and top chests for that.

I can believe it. I used to be a professional mechanic. Paid over $5000 for my Matco Toolbox. I hated my job, and ended up hating working on my own cars because it wasn't fun anymore. It was like being at work. I changed careers so I would enjoy cars again. Anyway, I was moving and I needed to sell it, so I let mine go for $1500. The problems with getting top dollar out of those things are: 1) most people don't need one because you don't have to worry about coworkers stealing your stuff, 2) the people who do need them can pay 50 bucks a week to the Matco, Cornwell, Snap-on truck instead of $5000 all at once, and 3) transportation: those things weigh a ton! took three good sized guys to lift mine into the new owners truck and that was with all the drawers taken out!

Still congratulations it is a nice place to store your tools when you have one, sometimes I regret selling mine.

Sorry to Highjack, end of tangent.... And you are building an awesome truck

[drewskiren]

Got bored with cutting and grinding on the frame, plus, Gnande wasn't home to help so I thought I would start to investigate how the steering could be put together. The 2001 rack and pinion has some nice u joints that are required to get the severe angles to work out. I will have to keep that portion of the shaft. The 1972 shaft has some cool internal workings that are required to make the shift lever work and have detents for park, reverse, drive, etc. I'll have to keep that part of the shaft intact too. All of these required parts are about 6 inches too long. Uh-Oh.

[drewskiren]

Well, my investigation turned into full blown how in heck is this going to work/let's just try some stuff. I had really been dreading this and worrying how it would come together, so I just dove in. First thing I noticed that could go was the accordion looking shaft. Choped that off and the remainder slides into the leftover piece. I can now just weld this together and voila (pronounced wah lah) I just saved 5 inches. Next I pulled the shaft to the rag joint and discovered an extra 1.5 inches there by making up a connection sleeve from the leftover rag joint shaft. I cut a little 2 inch section out and drilled 2 bolt holes.

[drewskiren]

I wasn't so lucky that my sleeve just slid over my 2 shafts that I was bringing together, but they were both close. The 2001 end had 2 flat sides already, I just had to grind them down smaller. The old shaft on the 72 had splines and a flat groove on 1 side. I ground down the opposite side and the sleeve now would slide onto both parts. To me this is true Hot Rodding, taking parts from different vehicles and machining them to fit and work together. So much more satisfying to make it myself than buy it and bolt it on (sorry vendors).

[drewskiren]

3 hours after starting my investigation and here we are, finished and ready to bolt in using the factory 72 steering column mounts. Time for bedtime prayers, good night all.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice job and great innovation. I find myself doing the same type of stuff all the time. I try to use what I have because it is cheaper most times, and I want to get it done.

[Rokcrln]

I like the idea but here are my $.02 for safety sake. It looks like the 01 end that you had to drill is aluminum and if so they are ok in stock form but now with the hole drilled into it their is very little "meat" left. Also aluminum is a funny metal in that it can be work hardened when used for steering and suspension parts but once you start drilling or grinding on it the heat produced will start to anneal the metal causing it to soften. Not what you want in your steering system.

So what I would do if this is the only way to hook up the steering is to take the other end of that same joint (but off a different shaft) that is metal and press the joints apart. Then re-build them so you end up with 2 steel ends that you can then weld the coupler to and not just rely on a single bolt that can end up wobbling out the hole and cause slop or a failure.

I hope this makes sense and I also hope this is coming across as for "safety" and in no way a slam on your design.

I will give you a call later about the cover and air box.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I like the idea but here are my $.02 for safety sake. It looks like the 01 end that you had to drill is aluminum and if so they are ok in stock form but now with the hole drilled into it their is very little "meat" left. Also aluminum is a funny metal in that it can be work hardened when used for steering and suspension parts but once you start drilling or grinding on it the heat produced will start to anneal the metal causing it to soften. Not what you want in your steering system.

So what I would do if this is the only way to hook up the steering is to take the other end of that same joint (but off a different shaft) that is metal and press the joints apart. Then re-build them so you end up with 2 steel ends that you can then weld the coupler to and not just rely on a single bolt that can end up wobbling out the hole and cause slop or a failure.

I hope this makes sense and I also hope this is coming across as for "safety" and in no way a slam on your design.

I will give you a call later about the cover and air box.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Thanks for the heads up, That hole was already there and I only had to grind it down a smidge with the cut off wheel, so it never got hot. I am probably have to redo it anyway because of a steering sensor I forgot about that rides on the shaft. I'll rebuild it like you said to be safe and because I can't weld to the aluminum anyway.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I really like the newer frame, I have wanted to do this for some time now. My last work truck was a 2000 3/4T chevy with a 5.3 and I turned it back into our shop with 265,000 miles after only having to replace 1 fuel pump at 80K and a water pump at 210K. Even the brakes were the originals and I towed allot with that truck and over loaded it on a regular basis. Great platform for a daily driver.


I think I just solved my labor problem!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I wanted to do the same thing with my 78 K20 and a wrecked 03 K2500 a friend had. I really wanted to use the 03 dash in the 78 but it ended up being too deep for a regular cab truck. There just wasn't enough room left between the seat back and the 03 steering wheel. Your hybrid of keeping the original older trucks dash & steering column solves that half of the problem.

With your crew cab you could probably make the newer dash & column work by just relocating the front seats rearward a little until you had enough room to be comfortable but I like the idea of keeping the stock 72 interior and column too.

I should have done the chassis & drivetrain swap anyway but I gave up on the project when I couldn't make the dash work out. I really wanted the dual zone climate control system, driver information center / gauge cluster and stereo out of the 03.

[69CST-V]

Great information and you are a true HOT RODDER. Keep making it yours by doing what hasn't been done. Very good thread.

[78BO]

Cool build. Got to see it done.

Bryan

[pickup67man]

That is a lot shorter steering shaft with the rack & pinion. I am looking at setting up my suburban on a newer chassis also. Since I don't have any drivetrain yet a complete but wrecked vehicle will be cheaper.

[scooterskoolkustoms]

I love this build,keep up the good work.

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by ksbrktracer

Yah , I like the way Drew has done his by cutting the crown out of it, That's the only way they look right if you ask me...

Originally Posted by jb1016

Just found this build; I'm in. Great progress so far.

Originally Posted by 76kcfdeng

I am doing just a normal build and it can get overwhelming, what you are doing would put me over the edge. You are dong a beautiful job!

Originally Posted by 70LonghornCST

Wow! Very nice work. You inspire me. Keep it up. Subscribed!

Originally Posted by RaceAGMC

Great looking project, can't wait too see it finished.

Originally Posted by caviness

nice build.

Originally Posted by Dinos63

wow nice work just read the whole thread!! great skills you will have one very cool truck

Originally Posted by jayman68

Great build, love it. My project is similar, but I have alot of rust to deal with. You are doing a great job!

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Hey nice progress! You are making this thing look like a truck now for sure.

BTW, $1600 is a very reasonable price. Keep the pics coming!

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I am liking the progress you are making. Someday I need to build one of these for my self or maybe I will just get my current project (LowBuk) back on the road and call it done

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Originally Posted by chevyblazer

kolll plaing on doing one my self on a few years

Originally Posted by 67cheby

AWESOME progress

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice progress. Can I ask how you ended up with 4 denali's? They seem to be scarce around here at the auctions.

Originally Posted by Pop's C-10

sweet build

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

wow that is just pure awsome!!!!

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice progress on the frame! That is a great solution! Too bad he quit giving advice, he knows his stuff.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice job and great innovation. I find myself doing the same type of stuff all the time. I try to use what I have because it is cheaper most times, and I want to get it done.

Originally Posted by 69CST-V

Great information and you are a true HOT RODDER. Keep making it yours by doing what hasn't been done. Very good thread.

Originally Posted by 78BO

Cool build. Got to see it done.

Bryan

Originally Posted by scooterskoolkustoms

I love this build,keep up the good work.

Thanks to everyone who follows along and takes time to comment.

I'm in the engineering jigsaw puzzle phase!

[67chevy1series]

wow about 11 quotes!

[Rokcrln]

Here are a few parts coming your way! I made yours out of 18ga then added a few beads into it for looks and rigidity. They will mail out Tuesday.

Kevin
LFD Inc.