72 K30 Build

[7dee2]

My boy is manning the welder and he does a great job!

[7dee2]

A little bit of progress our old K35 rear spring packs are now refurbished with new shackles, hardware, bushings & u-bolts. These were 11 over 1 but after removing 2 add a-leafs from each side they are now 9/1.

Ha, thinking it should ride like a Cadillac!

[DWilbur]

Ride like a caddy. I don't think so. more like a semi truck.

[Dieselwrencher]

Mini log truck. But it'll be alright.

[swamp rat]

It will roll like a caddy with a load of them logs from the logging truck.

Holey smokes i thing i'd wanna remove every other leaf in tho's stacks. LOL!

[7dee2]

Don't think a light weight aluminum bed is going to be necessary, maybe a full bodied flat bed? Still takes two old guys and a small boy to move this things around!


Started a new thread for "Best Way" Spring Hanger Mounting? in the All 4x4 Tech & Off Roading section. Ran a search and didn't find a lot on the subject.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post7204790

[mjensen]

Looking good Brett!! I'm telling you...I think you need to come down and prod me to get some progress done on mine!

[7dee2]

Oh no you’re having too much fun in the mud and breaking in new toys my friend! Carry on, carry on!

[rs74]

I need to ask a question. I might be able to buy back the rolling chassis from my old 85 K30. I know the rear spring hangers are not in the greatest shape. Other than the hydroboost is there anything else you would suggest getting from the truck if I want to do the conversion on my father in laws 67 C30? I am trying to get him to give me a price on the rolling chassis, hydro boost setup and the aluminum Eagle dually wheels that are on it.

[7dee2]

Hey Roy, that would be a great start complete roller & the complete hydroboost setup (including the steering box, pump and all the lines). Snag the drive lines and the transfer case as well as the transmission if it's something you can use.

We also kept all the emergency brake cables and all the fuel & brake lines in case we needed something we couldn't get or had a template to build new from. If the wiring is available some of that could come in handy especially the under the hood harnesses.

Think that's it, until it's built you just don't know what can be pitched so grab everything you can and hang on to it till the end of the build.

[7dee2]

Mrs. 7dee2 is pretty happy with the yard for now so time to get the springs mounted. We started by flipping the frame over. Since the frame is bare this should make things go much easier working the hangers upside down.

The front core support hangers did surprise me as they didn’t seem to be close enough on the Longhorn frame to utilize the factory holes at all. With some work they did get close enough to send some 3/8 bolts through. I’ve decided to punch everything over to 7/16 for a tighter fit and to resolve the slight mismatched holes we ended up with.

Also I should mention the hardware used is only for mock up.

[junksaver]

Glad to see you working on it again. I want to convert one of my 1 tons to 4wd, so I'm watching all of your build. Keep up the good work.

[7dee2]

Thanks junksaver! Me too, I'd rather be out working in the garage any day I can.

To get a rough idea for the frame brackets we used the springs with the shackles acting as a plumb bob. Taking into account there is no weight on the springs mounted the brackets a little past vertical closer to the front cab mounts. I’d hoped there would be enough room for the T400 shift linkage pivot bracket in a factory set of holes (Ha, tried the wrong side in the pic ) but we’ll probably have to get a little creative with that later. Tugged and pulled a little on the lower frame flange to make it sit a little flatter for the bracket. Measured twice (or maybe that was four times?) and used a 1-3/4" hole saw.

[BLAZERMAN]

Been following your project for awhile now, it's really starting to take shape! Are you going to run your engine in the original 4x4 position or move it up to the 2 wheel drive position? I'll be starting a similar project soon with my C/30, been gathering parts for several years and have about everything I need now.

[7dee2]

Thanks Blazerman, thinking the forward 2wd position to make a big block install go easier.

[7dee2]

Doh! The rear eye bushings are wrong on the front springs. Found we need the aftermarket spring bushings. They will work for we need right now good news is the frame bracket bushings are perfect. Still need to weld up some holes and then drill for the lower flange mount to finalize the mockup.

[7dee2]

So our method for mounting is to use a 3/8” bit & bolts then weld up any of the mismatched holes which are mostly in the lower frame flange. Drill these welded up holes using the same 3/8” bit & bolts. Once satisfied with the bracket position then go back and pull each bolt one by one and drill out the bracket and frame to 7/16” for the final fitting. This will allow for some minor adjustment if it’s necessary.

Front of the frame is prepped to plug all these holes.

Rear hanger front position doesn’t really line up with any existing holes either, surprise surprise! Since I want the crossmember to help support these hangers we’ll pull that part of the crossmember out and weld it up also.

[7dee2]

The 67-72 4x brackets yield roughly about 6” lift over the 2wd version that was there before. The existing frame alignment hole +3/8” is the target placement for this set. Here’s how it looks with part of the crossmember removed.

[JJorgensen52]

It's looking pretty good! The square generation brackets had four holes there and two of them actually lined up with the cross-member. The ones on the outside of the frame were totally different, though

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

It's looking pretty good! The square generation brackets had four holes there and two of them actually lined up with the cross-member. The ones on the outside of the frame were totally different, though

Thanks, here's a pic that shows the difference you mention. Also looks like the later bracket mounting holes are just a little further outboard on the flange. Ours were just a bit to beat up is another reason I opted for the earlier brackets. We're also trying to keep it 67-72 as much as possible within reason.

[7dee2]

After a quick look it was pretty obvious we needed to setup the 84 K35 rear position hangers to start. This should help make up some lost pinion angle gaining about 3” of lift over the 67-72 4x or the 2wd originals. If we’re happy with this once it’s flipped over we’ll make it permanent. Good news is one of the original holes does line up you can just barely see it in the last pic.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

After a quick look it was pretty obvious we needed to setup the 84 K35 rear position hangers to start. This should help make up some lost pinion angle gaining about 3” of lift over the 67-72 4x or the 2wd originals. If we’re happy with this once it’s flipped over we’ll make it permanent. Good news is one of the original holes does line up you can just barely see it in the last pic.

I can't remember, is your longhorn frame from a 3/4 ton? My rear spring hangers between the 72 and the 87 had the same bolt pattern ... I just used the original rear holes to mount the front of the later hanger.

[7dee2]

Early (1968) Longhorn 3/4 ton frame here's some pic's of the originals. Only had 4 rivets total holding the rear position hangers on (2 side & 2 bottom). Hard to see but in the last pic in the middle is both rear most hangers removed.

I did remember that from your build but at least I got one per side!

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Early (1968) Longhorn 3/4 ton frame here's some pic's of the originals. Only had 4 rivets total holding the rear position hangers on (2 side & 2 bottom). Hard to see but in the last pic in the middle is both rear most hangers removed.

I did remember that from your build but at least I got one per side!

Oh yeah I remember now! It's the year split. Those greaseable shackles used a different bracket.

Carry on

[7dee2]

This rear suspension setup did extend the wheel base a little with our front position hanger location and using the longer K35 springs it’s setting the diff back about 1-1/2”, no biggie for a flatbed build. We’ll fill the holes from the 2wd bump stops and use the K35’s bump stops.