Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread

[1966C30]

I attempted to do a crossmember swap on my 66 c30 and the frame widths are not the same between these. the c30 chassis is 3/8 of an inch wider than the later 73-87 crossmember. I am however going to drill out the holes to mount the newer a-arms and spindles onto the crossmember. The only question i do have is what would it take to install the inner tie rod ends of the newer 73-87 into the drag link of the 66.

[Captainfab]

There is no difference in the frame widths from '63 thru '87 in the C series and thru '91 in the R series.

It is not uncommon for the frame rails to spring apart a little once you unbolt the original crossmember. All you need to do is squeeze them back together a little, and bolt in your new suspension.

How do you plan on locating the lower control arms without saddles on your original crossmember? Unless you have something different than I have seen in 35 years of working on these trucks.

To use the '73-'87 tierods with your original draglink you will need to purchase the aftermarket aluminum tie rod adapters. I believe the original outters become your inner tierods. I'm not sure as I have never bought them. I just change the entire steering linkage to the '73 -'87 components.

You might want to check out Henry's thread. He is in the process of upgrading his '64 C30.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...=531513&page=4

Originally Posted by 1966C30

I attempted to do a crossmember swap on my 66 c30 and the frame widths are not the same between these. the c30 chassis is 3/8 of an inch wider than the later 73-87 crossmember. I am however going to drill out the holes to mount the newer a-arms and spindles onto the crossmember. The only question i do have is what would it take to install the inner tie rod ends of the newer 73-87 into the drag link of the 66.

[1966C30]

I have new saddles and was just going to weld them onto the older crossmember. but if that newer one will bolt on then i'll just use it. I also made the mistake of not buying the crossmember with my control arms and spindles and the studs to mount my control arms are smaller on the new one but the old studs fit it perfectly any idea on that?

Originally Posted by Captainfab

There is no difference in the frame widths from '63 thru '87 in the C series and thru '91 in the R series.

It is not uncommon for the frame rails to spring apart a little once you unbolt the original crossmember. All you need to do is squeeze them back together a little, and bolt in your new suspension.

How do you plan on locating the lower control arms without saddles on your original crossmember? Unless you have something different than I have seen in 35 years of working on these trucks.

To use the '73-'87 tierods with your original draglink you will need to purchase the aftermarket aluminum tie rod adapters. I believe the original outters become your inner tierods. I'm not sure as I have never bought them. I just change the entire steering linkage to the '73 -'87 components.

You might want to check out Henry's thread. He is in the process of upgrading his '64 C30.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...=531513&page=4

[Captainfab]

If you were to weld new saddles onto your original crossmember, they have to be absolutely perfectly located. Otherwise you will have all sorts of alignment issues

Just what studs are you referring to? The ones for the upper control arms?

Originally Posted by 1966C30

I have new saddles and was just going to weld them onto the older crossmember. but if that newer one will bolt on then i'll just use it. I also made the mistake of not buying the crossmember with my control arms and spindles and the studs to mount my control arms are smaller on the new one but the old studs fit it perfectly any idea on that?

[1BAD65]

HEY CAPTAIN!

I'm glad to be back here with you all! It's been almost a year since I last logged in.
I'm ready to get back to work on my 65 C10 frame off build. Just finished reading all 14 pages of this thread and DAMN! What a Great thread!

Here's my question: My 73-87 front crossmember assembly came with 1 inch rotors.
Please tell me what parts I need to change over to the 1.25 inch rotors.

I don't know the exact year of the crossmember assembly since it was already bolted to the SWB frame I bought to convert my Long Bed to a Short Bed and the PO did not know either.

Thanks

[1966C30]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If you were to weld new saddles onto your original crossmember, they have to be absolutely perfectly located. Otherwise you will have all sorts of alignment issues

Just what studs are you referring to? The ones for the upper control arms?

yeah the new upper control arms fit the original but not the newer crossmember. and i checked my measuring on the crossmembers themselves and the original crossmember is still 3/8" bigger than the new one. Is that still the same senario of the cross member spreading?

[doubleb's69]

Is it possible to use a 2 wheel drive spindle from a 88-98 Chevy in a 62 torsion bar set up to get disc brakes?

[Captainfab]

As far as I know that will not work. If you want front disc brakes, you will have to either buy the aftermarket conversion spindles, or change your complete front suspension, crossmember and all.

Originally Posted by doubleb's69

Is it possible to use a 2 wheel drive spindle from a 88-98 Chevy in a 62 torsion bar set up to get disc brakes?

[doubleb's69]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

As far as I know that will not work. If you want front disc brakes, you will have to either buy the aftermarket conversion spindles, or change your complete front suspension, crossmember and all.

I only ask because they look real similar side by side. If I have to ream some holes thats fine.

[Sick5]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

As far as I know that will not work. If you want front disc brakes, you will have to either buy the aftermarket conversion spindles, or change your complete front suspension, crossmember and all.

Captain
would those spindles work on 64-66 crossmembers?

[Captainfab]

If you're referring to the '88-'98 2wd spindles, you will have to change the lower control arm to one from a C20. The '67-'72 C20 LCA's would be the easiest to make work. The '73-'87 C20 LCA's will work as well, but the bump stop bracket is taller. The LCA change is necessary to accomodate the larger '88-'98 lower balljoint.

Originally Posted by Sick5

Captain
would those spindles work on 64-66 crossmembers?

[Sick5]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If you're referring to the '88-'98 2wd spindles, you will have to change the lower control arm to one from a C20. The '67-'72 C20 LCA's would be the easiest to make work. The '73-'87 C20 LCA's will work as well, but the bump stop bracket is taller. The LCA change is necessary to accomodate the larger '88-'98 lower balljoint.

thank you

[doubleb's69]

If I got ECE disc brake spindles for the 60-62 (PN. 911-6062S) do I have to run their disc brakes or can I use over the counter stuff from the parts store?

[Captainfab]

I don't know for sure, but I would think you should be able to use stock replacement parts on those spindles. But that is something you should verify with ECE.

Originally Posted by doubleb's69

If I got ECE disc brake spindles for the 60-62 (PN. 911-6062S) do I have to run their disc brakes or can I use over the counter stuff from the parts store?

[QBA]

uuhhhmmmm, can 1966 upper control arms be used along with 73-87 lower control arms?

[Captainfab]

I have not tried that, so I can't say for certain if the upper control arms are the same between the '63-'70 and the '71-'87's. I would think that since we are talking about GM, they should be dimensionally the same. But if by chance they are not, that would mess with your caster and camber. Why not just change the upper control arms, and be certain all is good?

Originally Posted by QBA

uuhhhmmmm, can 1966 upper control arms be used along with 73-87 lower control arms?

[dracko]

So it looks like the guy I'm buying a front crossmember off has an '84 and an '86 in addition to the '72 i was originally going to get.

I figure I should grab the '86 instead since it has way less miles on it and the parts are cheaper/readily available.

I just need to clarify, if I plan to put some CPP 6 lug rotors on the crossmember, it needs to be a heavy duty 1 1/4" rotor crossmember?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Captainfab]

Yes, I do believe all of the aftermarket 6 lug front rotors are for the HD spindles.

[dracko]

Okay cool thanks.
Posted via Mobile Device

[FoMoCoGuy]

Hey guys, Im in the final stages of doing power disc/PS on a 64 c10.

I have two questions:

For the inner tie rods, Ive read to use the moog es2020 TRE's. However, when looking them up, there seems to be several different part numbers: 2020rl, 2020rlt, etc. What ones do I need?

For the brake system, I'm converting it to a dual pot master. I have all the line, the proportioning valve i need, but the master has the shallow hole for the intermediate rod, not the deep hole like the original single pot did. what intermediate rod do I need to use?

[Captainfab]

I have never messed around with trying to mix and match the different steering components. I just convert to the entire '73-'87 steering linkage. All you have to do is drill 2 holes for the newer style idler arm. Then all your steering and brakes are of the same vintage. Much easier to remember what you need when it comes time to replace a part.

As for the master cylinder, if you have front disc brakes you need a manual brake master cylinder for a '71 and up truck. If you still have all drums, then you need a '67-'70 truck master cylinder. This is assuming you are running manual brakes, as this is what it sounds like.

Originally Posted by FoMoCoGuy

Hey guys, Im in the final stages of doing power disc/PS on a 64 c10.

I have two questions:

For the inner tie rods, Ive read to use the moog es2020 TRE's. However, when looking them up, there seems to be several different part numbers: 2020rl, 2020rlt, etc. What ones do I need?

For the brake system, I'm converting it to a dual pot master. I have all the line, the proportioning valve i need, but the master has the shallow hole for the intermediate rod, not the deep hole like the original single pot did. what intermediate rod do I need to use?

[ncoonen]

I am looking for some direction on how to find the correct disk/drum manual brake master cylinder for my '63 C10. I plan to keep my stock crossmember and use McGauphy's stock height spindles and front disk brake kit or similar components. Everywhere I look I see power brake masters for front disks but I would prefer the cleaner look under-hood of a manual master cylinder with the appropriate proportioning valve, if needed.

There is a wealth of excellent brake-related information on this forum but I haven't been able find this answer.

Thanks!...ned.

[64chevmn]

I read all 15 pages of of this post and almost all of my questions were covered, but I do have to ask one question.

Besides being able to roll a complete front suspension under my 64 that is complete with disc brakes and the steering components, what is the greatest advantage of doing the swap to a 73-87 system? I would like to keep as much of my 64 original as possible, but if the steering, upper and lower control arms are that much better on a 73-87 swap, then maybe it would be worth the swap.

My original plan was to buy a set of 2.5 drop spindles, add power disc brakes and power steering; all parts that are easily found........but I'm still debating if the swap is the way to go or just piece meal the front end together and keep my original cross member and upper and lower control arms?

Thanks!

Dan

[Captainfab]

I prefer the '73-'87 control arms for the better (IMO) rubber bushings. I also prefer to use the entire '73-'87 steering linkage along with the idler arm, pitman arm and steering box. That way all the steering parts are of the same vintage, which is less confusion later on when replacement parts are needed. And no expensive aluminum adapter sleeves are needed. I also recommend upgrading to the larger '73-'87 lower control arm U-bolts.

Originally Posted by 64chevmn

I read all 15 pages of of this post and almost all of my questions were covered, but I do have to ask one question.

Besides being able to roll a complete front suspension under my 64 that is complete with disc brakes and the steering components, what is the greatest advantage of doing the swap to a 73-87 system? I would like to keep as much of my 64 original as possible, but if the steering, upper and lower control arms are that much better on a 73-87 swap, then maybe it would be worth the swap.

My original plan was to buy a set of 2.5 drop spindles, add power disc brakes and power steering; all parts that are easily found........but I'm still debating if the swap is the way to go or just piece meal the front end together and keep my original cross member and upper and lower control arms?

Thanks!

Dan

[Captainfab]

I have to ask. If you are just wanting stock height spindles, why not just source a stock set of spindles from a '73-'87 pickup or Suburban? Then you can just get new rotors and calipers from your favorite locak auto parts store.

As for a manual master cylinder, you just need one for a '71 and up C10. As for the prop valve, you could also get that from the donor for the spindles.

Originally Posted by ncoonen

I am looking for some direction on how to find the correct disk/drum manual brake master cylinder for my '63 C10. I plan to keep my stock crossmember and use McGauphy's stock height spindles and front disk brake kit or similar components. Everywhere I look I see power brake masters for front disks but I would prefer the cleaner look under-hood of a manual master cylinder with the appropriate proportioning valve, if needed.

There is a wealth of excellent brake-related information on this forum but I haven't been able find this answer.

Thanks!...ned.