"Midnight Rider" 1970 C10 SWB Fleetside

[omodified]

Seats are going together today.

[omodified]

Got the rear cab panel fitted in place. A few areas need trimmed for a little clearance to the cab. I would hate to scratch the paint in the future. It also needs a 0.50" cut along the door edge. I want the ability to remove the panels easily so I don't want to glue the weatherstripping to them. The goal is to have them just barely tuck into the weatherstrip.

[omodified]

Seats are finished. I think they turned out really nice. I need to let the passenger seat sit in the sun for another day and they will be perfect!








The console is a 9/10. The inside looks almost brand new. All of the parts are original except the billet cupholder. To finish it off, I bought and installed NOS lid bumpers from board member 402Bowtie. Completely happy with this package. I wish I could install them so I don’t have to worry about storing them away. Now I have to sell my bench seat so I have room for it all.

[omodified]

Working on positioning the rear cab divider trim. My old trim used to sit funny and I wanted to make sure it was straight this time. I will have to install new mounting posts. The original GM drawing says there should be 12 posts total. For my starting point, I wanted make sure that the bottom of both ends of the trim sit flush with the drip rail ends. My old trim did not sit this way. When I taped the new trim up on the cab, I noticed that when I install it this way, it's not really square to the body lines. Then I realize that the drip rail is a bit longer on the passenger side. So I squared the trim up to the bottom line of the rear window and the body lines just below the drip rail. This also showed me how much of the drip rails needed removed. Outlined the trim here to have a reference for mount post installation.










Shortened the passenger side drip rail up to the bottom of the trim. Will have to do some finish work here later.






Ready to drill holes. I have NOS replacement post that screw in. These are nice because they come with sealer already in the threads. Will screw them in after paint is finished.

[omodified]

Working on the rear cab filler panels. The original fuel tank mounts are angled and this causes issues with mounting the panels straight. So, the metal had to be cut and pushed flat. Once the each mount was on the same plane, they were welded up. Also welded up a few original mounting holes since I won't be using them all.




Had to create a few bottom mounts to keep the panel from sitting at an angle.




Mounts were also added down the sides to keep the panels secure.




Trimmed the panels for maximum clearance everywhere. Here is the installation. I will be using nicer hardware for the final install, after paint of course. The carpet will tuck right under the panel. Should be nice when it's finished.

[omodified]

I really wanted my transmission pan to work out. I liked the idea of having more fluid for cooling and it just looks good. However, once I installed the engine and transmission into the frame, I realized that this pan was not gonna work on this build. This pan ends up being the lowest point on the center of the truck, by a lot.




I really didn't want to go back to the factory pan, so I set out to find something shallow but raw cast aluminum. Let me tell you...there isn't much out there. The only thing I found was an HP2582 pan from Hughes Performance. The downside was being backordered. I think I have been waiting on it for 5 months, but it finally arrived this week. To install it, I ordered a new GM gasket, a new GM filter and new stainless hardware. Once everything was in place, I torqued the pan bolts to 12lb/ft. It's still the lowest thing in the center of the truck, but this buys me about 1.5" of clearance over what I started with. This should be much better.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

really looking good....

[omodified]

Life stuff has been happening, so the build has slowed down a bit lately.
There is more work to be done to the cab, but all of the other panels are in final primer now. Once the cab is finished, these will all be wet sanded and be ready for color.

[omodified]

The rear cab panels won't really need any work, especially since they will be mostly hidden behind the seats and console. Epoxy primer for now.

[omodified]

Originally Posted by omodified

The console is a 9/10. The inside looks almost brand new. All of the parts are original except the billet cupholder. To finish it off, I bought and installed NOS lid bumpers from board member 402Bowtie. Completely happy with this package. I wish I could install them so I don’t have to worry about storing them away. Now I have to sell my bench seat so I have room for it all.

I wanted to take this console from a 9/10 to a 10/10. The original bowtie emblem was pitted and scratched, so it needs to be replaced. There aren't any NOS emblems out there right now. I couldn't find any blue ones that have been sold in the last 10 years, so they must not exist. I decided to go aftermarket. These actually look quite nice. The reproduction appears to be 100% correct, right down to the part number on the back. It wasn't all good though. In true Counterpart fashion, I broke the studs off of two different emblems during install. The supplied cutting nut cuts too much material off and when the nut gets tight to the console lid, it just shears the post off. Hats off to The Truck Shop though. They were aware of the issue and didn't hesitate to stand behind the product. Third time was a charm when I used the nut from my original emblem.














Last, I noticed that the console hinge was a bit rusty and the holes were oblong. I found that board member Zac72blazer sells a stainless reproduction hinge that is priced right and looks beautiful. Shipping was fast and I had it installed within a few days. Now, the console is a 10/10!!!

[omodified]

Over the last few years, I have been collecting supplies that I would need eventually to finish my bed wood. I honestly have been dreading this because I have no idea what I'm doing and I only get one shot at it. This week, I have been going through several techniques, trying to find the look I want. So far, I can't get my scrap oak wood to accept enough stain to be considered black or even grey. The best luck I've had was painting. Next, I have to figure out the best way to final coat it. I have some 2 part blushing epoxy coming next week. I think this will be the best way to get a good even coat of clear across the board. Since it is self leveling, it should fill in the grain really well. If this works, then I can use automotive clear for UV protection on top of the epoxy. Here is what I have come up with so far with just spray can satin black and spray can clear. I think I'm really liking the silver grain accents.

[68bowtie]

That looks awesome.

[omodified]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

That looks awesome.

Thanks 68bowtie. Here are a few more pieces that I've been working on. This time, I actually reached out to Mar-K and had them send me some oak samples. Glad I did too. These samples actually took stain. I went for more of a weathered look this time. The real test was if the sample would actually take 2-part epoxy. Here is how is turned out. It looks pretty good, just not sure if the weathered look will go with my overall theme. I'll add this to the stack of ideas and keep looking for others.

[omodified]

Still not much going on right now with the cab or otherwise. This weekend I installed a new part into the fuel system. Holley released a LiDar fuel sending unit that is really affordable. This eliminates the possibility of the float sticking on the mechanical unit that came with my Boyd tank. The Holley unit uses laser imaging to accurately report fuel levels. The supplied instructions were decent, but I found a YouTube video that filled in the gaps for me. I wired up the unit's positive and negative terminal to a 12v battery. Next, I wired my multimeter to the negative battery post and the output signal terminal on the fuel sending unit. Setup is fairly simple. First thing is a three point linear calibration. I wanted to set up for a 0-90ohm output. So, the first calibration point needed to be as close to 0 ohms as possible. The second calibration point should be right at 45 ohms. The third calibration point is 90 ohms. Next, I have to measure my tank depth, which is 9.75". I subtracted 0.50" for fuel reserves and calibrated the empty level point at 9.25" from a flat surface. Last, I calibrated full level by placing the sensor against the same flat surface. I had to adjust the calibration several times to get the level reading to make sense. Once, I got the readings correct, I installed onto the tank. I will wire this up later, once the cab is on. Since it is already setup, it will be plug and play with the dash.

[omodified]

Almost a year ago now, I posted about the glass I custom ordered. I'm finally getting around to working with the side glass. I guess the reason for the delay was that I was holding out for an NOS drivers side sash. I bought a pair of NOS at one point from Ebay and received two passengers. Then, I bought a single drivers side and received another passenger. I finally gave up and bought a really nice used one from board member Maldo. So today, it finally came time to install the windows into the sashes. Before I could install them, I had to prepare the sashes. I used the bead blaster to clean the surface. Then I painted them satin black. The installation was a breeze, very similar to when I installed my vent windows into the frames. I found some NOS 0.040" setting tape. I folded the tape over the bottom edge and used scotch tape to hold in place. I liberally applied kerosene to the setting tape and quickly used a rubber mallet to set the glass inside the sash. I had already measured and marked the glass where the edges of the sash should be. For the finish, I set the windows in the sun so the setting tape would swell a bit. Time to package these guys up and store them away for later.

[omodified]

Cab is getting ready to get on this rotisserie so the sport bucket braces can be rosette welded in place.

[omodified]

The cab made it on the rotisserie but now I am in a holding pattern. So, it's time for something else ridiculous and completely overdone, the windshield wiper transmission. Again, in an effort to consolidate parts, I decided to assemble my wiper transmission for storage. How did it get disassembled? Well let's go back a few years. When I tore this truck down to the frame, I realized how bad of a job I did when restored these the first time around. I basically just painted over everything and it looks like the were starting to rust again.









I decided a while ago that these things were a mess and decided I was going to build something nicer. I managed to find one side of the transmission in NOS. I never could find the other side, so I found one that was worth restoring. To avoid the rust in the future I decided to drill the rivets out to break everything down and nickel plated the unfinished metal.









I painted the arms and used stainless hardware for reassembly. The factory clips were still in very good condition so I polished them and and did not use the aftermarket ones. I greased the clips and bolts the transmission to the arm. I tightened the bolts just tight enough to keep the transmission rotating freely with just a little drag. To finish it off, I bought a really nice used wiper motor arm from EBAY and I nickel plated an NOS linkage clip. I'll store these away for now.

[cornerstone]

What a labor of love. Do you think you'd ever be able to sell this truck? I'm guessing no. Incredible detail work... 5 stars for you.

[hewittca]

Awesome work as usual. It's almost a shame to cover all that detail work by putting the cowl on! I'm really looking forward to checking this thing out one day.

[omodified]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

What a labor of love. Do you think you'd ever be able to sell this truck? I'm guessing no. Incredible detail work... 5 stars for you.

Thanks Brian. At this point, I don't think selling is an option. Unless Mecum can double my money.

Originally Posted by hewittca

Awesome work as usual. It's almost a shame to cover all that detail work by putting the cowl on! I'm really looking forward to checking this thing out one day.

Thank you Dr. Hewitt. If I ever have to take the cowl off, look out!

[omodified]

Speaking of things that are hidden, I had some more parts laying around that I could consolidate. Time to put together the brake pedal assembly. Here is the assembly when I removed it a few years ago. These things are bare metal and always have surface rust all over them.




I stripped the assembly down and bead blasted everything.





Once everything was stripped, I nickel plated it all and repainted the brake pedal. Won't have to worry about surface rust now.




For assembly, the first thing I need to do was drill and tap a 10-24 hole. I bought an ECU bracket from Facebook Marketplace Richie Elfstrom. I will need to mount some electronics to it eventually and it will be easier to drill the mounting hole now.




Here is the bracket mounted. It came unfinished, so I painted it black. I will remove it and store it away for now.




Next, is attaching the brake pedal to the housing. For this, I used NOS GM3769302 bushings. I greased everything up really well and torqued the retaining nut/bolt to 12lb/ft with blue Loctite.





Next was installing the brake light switch and return spring. I used an NOS GM1261219 switch. The switch looked a little different my original but it does have the same JWH marking, so it's legit. I used a multimeter to make sure the circuit opens/closes. Checked out good. I think the return spring is from LMC, but I had it nickel plated too. I installed the brake light switch in the same position as how it was removed originally, but it can be adjusted later if needed.








Last thing was installing the brake pedal pad. I found an NOS GM3901510 pad and trim on EBAY, so this is what will go on. Done! Will store this assembly away for later.

[MDPotter]

Anytime I find an opportunity to point out a potential conflict on this build, I do so because it's so incredibly rare. Since you are LS swapping you will need to install a double-pole brake switch so the PCM gets the signals it needs to control the torque converter (assuming you have a Gen III LS and are going with an automatic). PSI and BP Automotive both sell them: https://bp-automotive.com/product/el...-brake-switch/

[omodified]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Anytime I find an opportunity to point out a potential conflict on this build, I do so because it's so incredibly rare. Since you are LS swapping you will need to install a double-pole brake switch so the PCM gets the signals it needs to control the torque converter (assuming you have a Gen III LS and are going with an automatic). PSI and BP Automotive both sell them: https://bp-automotive.com/product/el...-brake-switch/

Hey Michael. Thank you very much for the info and thanks for continuing to keep an eye on my build. I’ll be ordering one of these today.

[omodified]

At board member MDPotter's suggestion, I ordered a dual pole brake light switch. It arrived this week and I installed it. Good thing I still had the box for the NOS switch. The factory brake light connector will plug into the two bare blades. The two wires from the pigtail will connect to my ECU and a switched ignition source.

[MDPotter]

Beautiful!