It’s Just A Pickup

[sparkydog]

McMaster Carr (and others like them) carry a variety of standoffs/spacers. Here is a link to their "selection" menu.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#spacers-and-standoffs/=7571wy

From there you can narrow down by shape, size, material - whatever you want.

[my67chevytruck]

Originally Posted by Bruce88

The plastic spacer came with my wire looms to raise it above the exhaust manifold, of course a longer bolt was required.

Attachment 586122

If you’re going to make some spacers I would probably make them out of aluminum tube/pipe. If your unable to find some tube/pipe to fit your needs locally I found a online company to order raw stock material (they do no machining) that they will cut to length and ship to your door. The cost is a little high but when you’re looking for a small peace of metal to work it comes in handy I’ve used them and find it a benefit. The company is Online Metals ( http://www.onlinemetals.com/ ). Finding aluminum tube/pipe with thicker wall thickness can be hard some times just order a little more than you need and cut it to the lengths needed.

Hope this helps you out

Thanks Bruce, that helps alot, i was thinking you used spacers, thanks for the pics and info.

Originally Posted by sparkydog

McMaster Carr (and others like them) carry a variety of standoffs/spacers. Here is a link to their "selection" menu.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#spacers-and-standoffs/=7571wy

From there you can narrow down by shape, size, material - whatever you want.

Thanks for the info.

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by sparkydog

McMaster Carr (and others like them) carry a variety of standoffs/spacers. Here is a link to their "selection" menu.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#spacers-and-standoffs/=7571wy

From there you can narrow down by shape, size, material - whatever you want.

Thanks for the added info on another place to look for parts I will be adding them to my list of places to look in the future.

[Bruce88]

Where do all the tubes go?
The tow hitch and fuel tank plus aft fuel lines are installed.

Cleaned and applied a coat of Dupli-Color professional undercoat and sound eliminator to the Blazer style fuel tank. That stuff definitely needs a few days to dry before installing the tank. If you’re interested in how the tank was installed check out an earlier post on this build (post #252) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...318544&page=11

Might not be the best location for the vent tube high loop, but it was the best place in my mind to incorporate one. I’m installing a vapor/charcoal canister for venting the fuel tank and a vent tube high loop is needed to prevent any liquid fuel that might get into the tube from getting to the canister. Since the vent line will be exposed in the wheel well I put some ½ inch air hose over it to help prevent damage to it. Yes two holes where drilled in the frame to run the vent line out to the wheel well and back, plus some short chucks of fuel hose to compensate for bed flex to frame.



Then onto the bending and fitting the vent and fuel line to the front. I’m using 3/8 inch aluminum tube for the vent line and fuel line. This tube can be found at Summit or Jeg’s in bulk coiled up form. When I was down at the auto parts store picking up a few feet of 5/8 fuel vent hose the parts man ran back and cut me a chuck of heater hose and I had to explain to him that it would not work and after looking in the back came back with some 5/8 fuel vent hose (Watch out for what they try to sell you they may not know). I’m using the 5/8 fuel vent hose for the filler vent.

Fabricated a mount for the mid fuel fill tube from some 4 inch x 4 inch x ¼ inch angle iron and bolted it to the frame. Then used a SS exhaust clamp to mount the tube to the bracket. If your interested in the mid fuel fill tube design check out an earlier post on this build (post #76) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=318544&page=4 . The upper fuel fill tube and cap is a LMC 29-3470 Fuel Filler Neck and LMC 32-4129 Gas Cap Non Locking that are for a Chevy S10 (94-95 pickup) I did cut the tube down to 2 inches below the vent tube.



Because there is a long span between floor cross sill supports I’m adding a short cross sill just forward of the fuel tank (There was no cross sill at this location on the stock bed). Also I’m installing a custom cross sill over the fuel tank for clearance and floor support. If your interested in the custom cross sill design check out an earlier post on this build (post #106) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=318544&page=5 .

I’m a definite advocate of grounding all fuel tubes for safety. I’ve had a fire from a static spark from a bad ground when refueling a helicopter and that fuel is less volatile than gas.



Since the fuel tubes are very close to the wood floor and wanting a little cushion for the bed to sit on, I’m raising the bed up a slight amount. I have a 3/16 inch thick bed mat that I cut some 3 inch strips from to use under the sill to frame mounts and along the frame cross member (The wood floor sits on this cross member normally).



The one tool that you normally don’t see in a shop is a tube beading tool. You know that raised area at the end of the tube that you slip the hose over, it’s called a tube bead. The tube bead can not be formed with a flaring tool it requires a special beading tool and most beading tools cost $150 to $200 and up.

One low cost tube beading tool that you might consider is Earl’s Performance, EZ Tubing Beader, (tool number 008ERL for 3/8 aluminum tube) aprox cost $30 , you can find one at Summit Racing. There are some limitations with this tool, like it’s only for aluminum tube, it only works on 3/8 tube, the bead that it creates is not as high as a factory tube bead.

I’ve used this tube beader for years and found it beneficial when making my own fuel lines maybe you might find a use for it too. Hears a step by step how to use one



Now that I’ve exhausted you in a long post (sorry) no not really (smile) Enjoy your build

[68GMCCustom]

awesome work!!

[propanemudtruck]

Your attention to detail is going to make any new factory truck look shoddy! Very nice work once again Bruce!

Interesting beading tool you 've got there, I always use double flare for fuel and brake lines. Is there anything wrong with that?

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by propanemudtruck

Your attention to detail is going to make any new factory truck look shoddy! Very nice work once again Bruce!

Interesting beading tool you 've got there, I always use double flare for fuel and brake lines. Is there anything wrong with that?

For brake lines double flare it’s the safe way to do it.

The beading of low pressure/vacuum tubes is the common approach when slipping a rubber hose over the tube with a clamp. Some times you will find fuel line fittings that will require a double flare to connect the tube. I’ve put a hose with a clamp over a double flared tube and it worked but the double flare was not designed for this application. The tube bead gives a raised smooth surface for the hose to seal on and help prevent the hose from slipping off. The double flare isn’t as smooth and not designed for a rubber hose to be used. If I was concerned about the hose sealing or coming off under pressure and the tube had no bead I would push the hose a little further on the tube and use two clamps.

Hope this answers yore question for you

[propanemudtruck]

Originally Posted by Bruce88

For brake lines double flare it’s the safe way to do it.

The beading of low pressure/vacuum tubes is the common approach when slipping a rubber hose over the tube with a clamp. Some times you will find fuel line fittings that will require a double flare to connect the tube. I’ve put a hose with a clamp over a double flared tube and it worked but the double flare was not designed for this application. The tube bead gives a raised smooth surface for the hose to seal on and help prevent the hose from slipping off. The double flare isn’t as smooth and not designed for a rubber hose to be used. If I was concerned about the hose sealing or coming off under pressure and the tube had no bead I would push the hose a little further on the tube and use two clamps.

Hope this answers yore question for you

Great, thanks! Just what I was looking for!

[mcbassin]

Great looking progress and as always very nice detail explainations! keep it up!

[sourkraut]

bruce i had just bought some of this to use on the underside of my cab "Dupli-Color professional undercoat and sound eliminator". do you recommend it or should i save my money and return it? the reason i had bought it was cause it said you could paint it, let me know what you think, thanks.

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by sourkraut

bruce i had just bought some of this to use on the underside of my cab "Dupli-Color professional undercoat and sound eliminator". do you recommend it or should i save my money and return it? the reason i had bought it was cause it said you could paint it, let me know what you think, thanks.

Paint and finish are one of my weak points (limited knowledge areas) but Ill give it a shot from my point of view.

I had no concern about the gas tank rusting since it’s similar to galvanized metal some might call it pickled. I just wanted it black and a little sound deadening, the Dupli-Color definitely needed a few days to dry, as far as painting over it I don’t know it says you can. It would probably work for under coating a cab.

My personal thought on undercoating a cab is I plan on using bed liner material that seems more protective and durable than the Dupli-Color undercoating and think you might want to look into using a bed liner material.

[sourkraut]

that is what i ahd originally planned was tptools raptor bedliner but saw this stuff and thought i would give it a whirl. iam glad i did not spray it yet though, i will go back to plan a. thanks again bruce.

[Bruce88]

Mainly this is a test to see if I can post two pictures side by side instead of on top of each
other.

I just finished up running the fuel and vent line to the front of the frame. Then set my
camera inside the LH frame and took some pictures of the fuel and vent line run on the
RH frame. Definitely a point of view that you would not be able to see when the trucks
complete. Stitched the pictures together to give a flat panoramic view of the run from the
front to the back of the truck. The stitching is not the best because the lighting wasn’t that
good and the color shifts with the flash from one picture to another is very noticeable.
With the width limitations on the forum posts thought it would look better size wise with
the pictures side by side to tie the run together. So I’m giving it a try



Hears a standard picture of the run



I always like to try new and different approaches to things sometime just to see if it can be done.
Well it looks like it worked

[VA72C10]

very cool point of view. Great reference item. Your build HAS to be an FAQ when completed.

How to do a frame off.....the right way!

[glimmertwin01]

sweet work Bruce

[Bruce88]

Finally the shop statue/artwork has found its final home and where it should be to show it off.
After to long a time, the engine and transmission that’s been sitting in the corner under covers have been married together and installed.

Not a lot to say about the installation, it was just slipped in and bolted down. I did use a CCP Trans Crossmember, part number CP9427 for the transmission mount, moved aft approximately 3 inch’s to accommodate the 700R4.







Now onto the exhaust system installation, I’m going to be installing a Magnaflow exhaust system. Enjoy your build

[propanemudtruck]

Originally Posted by Bruce88

Not a lot to say about the installation, it was just slipped in and bolted down.

Bruce that is still something to be proud of! You have so many details coming together that everything you build or install just makes it that much more unique to your build. Very nice job!

[mcbassin]

Great work as always I really love the details on the frame and tubing.

[Bruce88]

More rework than it should have been to make it fit
When installing the exhaust system things that should not have been, cropped up

Some exhaust kits bolt right in with minimal trouble this one by Magnaflow is not one of them. I can’t expect the kit to compensate for modifications made to the truck like using a 700R4 Trans or the rear gas tank location but there where problems that should not have been.

I’m using ram horn manifolds with what I would call a 45 degree angled back 2 inch dump on both sides of a SB Chevy and wanted some stainless steel down pipes from 2 inch to 2-1/2 inch. There where no down pipes made for our truck that I could find so I went with some DGU15S by Pypes stainless steel down pipes that I thought would work with minimal modification. The only modification that was needed was to bend the RH down pipe up another 10 degrees and they worked good with the top of the pipe running parallel with the bottom edge of the frame rail and cleared everything.

One tip that you might find useful is to use some plain nuts and washers for the entire test fitting of the down pipes, just lightly snugging them up till everything is set. Saving the self locking nuts until everything is set and ready for 17 foot lbs final torque. You don’t want to wear out the self locking nuts or seat the manifold gasket more than one time.





Onto installing the Magnaflow 2-1/2 stainless steel exhaust kit (part number 16643) for a Chevrolet Truck C10 Pickup.

Moved the exhaust X pipe aprox 2 inches aft to clear the transmission pan and give access to the trans pan if needed in the future. I shortened the aft end of the X pipe aprox 2 inches and this caused the pipes going up to the mufflers to just clear the swing arms by 3/8 of an inch on both sides. Like to see a ½ inch or more clearance but can live with the 3/8 inch.

Will be adding a ¼ inch shim under the trans crossmember on both sides to get a ½ inch clearance of the tubes.



From the mufflers on back the tail pipes where not going to work. All the pipe bends seamed to be right but their orientation to each other (clocked position) where totally wrong.

Not having any experience with welding stainless steel, did some web search for how to MIG weld stainless steel and the potential problems with welding it. Then brought in a friend that makes a living welding (he had no experience MIG welding SS either) and came up with a plan to solve the problem and minimize the MIG welding problems.

After cutting the pipe, TIG butt welding would be the best looking but I didn’t have a TIG welder to use and MIG welding a butt weld we thought would not be as good. So we decided to sleeve the cuts with a 2.5 inch sleeve, it would not look as good but will be solid and leak free.

After doing some test welds on some scrap metal, fine tuning the MIG welder settings for good weld penetration, strength and no cracking (each different MIG welder will require its own power and wire speed settings). Positioned each tail pipe peace and marked for best fit on the truck (all welding was done on the bench after fitting). The sleeves were a definite aid in setting up the complete pipe run before welding.

You use a tri-mix gas for welding stainless steel and SS wire, the welder supply rented me a small bottle of the gas and sold me a small wheel of SS wire a definite savings to me since it was just a small job that needed to be done.

Included a picture of the welding with some MIG welding info for those that might need to do some stainless steel welding. Note the weld does not flow the same way you would see on steel and we where surprised that there was less weld splatter than steel.



Had to trim the frame on both sides about a ¼ inch for added pipe clearance but I think the tail pipes fit pretty good now.

The Stainless steel tips are from Heartthrob Exhaust part # ITD212SS Turndown Tips



The SS hanger strap and shim material will be hear in a day or two and the boxes will be history (smile) Enjoy your build.

[bobshotrodblazer]

looks good . 3" is that going to be a problem with the distributer hitting the firewall ?

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by bobshotrodblazer

looks good . 3" is that going to be a problem with the distributer hitting the firewall ?

The engine is in the stock location, it was just the transmission crossmember that was moved aft to accommodate the 700r4, so there will not be a problem with the distributor hitting the fire wall.

[VA72C10]

Looking great....pretty sure he was just speaking of the trans mount being 3" further back because the 700R4 is 3" longer....
the engine looks to be in the front two of the three holes so he'll have plenty of firewall clearance.

[my67chevytruck]

Awesome progress as always Bruce!

[VA72C10]

nice work as usual....

[custom70]

man you do some nice work! Keep it up.