1972 Blazer - 'Bullet' Project

[lks dcvn]

Thanks guys.

I am trying to get my other stuff into storage for the winter (or sell them) so I can have some room to work.

[jaros44sr]

Hey Deceivin' did you ever try to top coat that rust proof ing?

[lks dcvn]

Not yet...it has been sitting since last year. I am curious to know how it turns out though...

I have a buddy who did his whole cab (77 f250) on a truck he is restoring. He won't get to paint until (at least) next year.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by lks dcvn

Not yet...it has been sitting since last year. I am curious to know how it turns out though...

I have a buddy who did his whole cab (77 f250) on a truck he is restoring. He won't get to paint until (at least) next year.

Ok, thanks......

Im looking to coat my front inner fenders with something durable, i was thinking, either rust bullet or lizard skin. Does the rust bullet stink, smell is one of my concerns, since i have to do it in my house

[lks dcvn]

The nomorerust stuff I used has some scent, but it isn't overwhelming. I wouldn't do it in my house if I had a choice though.

I did it out in the garage so there was some airflow.

Finally some progress...

I moved my 69 Blazer into storage for the winter freeing up some garage space to work on this.

In the stash of stuff I bought awhile ago (link to the pix) there was a solid tailgate (pic 3) that I spotted and never got around to checking out...until today when I started to dig around in my stash of parts.

I cleaned it up (simple green, soft brush and a few hand towels) and was pretty impressed as I think this is the 1969 one year only (code 517 maroon) color paint.

No dents on the tailgate at all - just some minor scuffing here and there from being moved around, but I don't think it was ever used that much.

Here are some before and after shots...

I plan to sand it to bare metal, do any body work needed...coat it with the rust prevention paint and then try to get some color on it in the next few weeks to see how it turns out.

[jaros44sr]

Thanks for info...thats amazing on the tailgate!

[lks dcvn]

here is a during shot - I couldn't believe how clean this thing was...

It was still wet in the after shot - so it looks a bit more shiny than usual.

[VA72C10]

Awesome gate!!!

[qtnfireman]

dcvn, I feel like our blazers could be twins. Your thread has been a huge help to me. Keep doing what you are doing. I was frustrated with it all, and after reading and looking at your build, I have found new inspiration. Most of my parts around the door pillars and rockers where completely gone so I had nothing to reference to. Your pictures have answered a lot of unanswered questions. Keep up the good work.

[lks dcvn]

Thanks for the kind words.

Glad to hear that my build thread has been helpful to you and anybody else along the way. I have learned quite a bit from this site over the past few years - some of the best guys I have met (and most that I have only chatted with online).

Without build threads and plenty of pictures of how these trucks were built, rebuilt and fixed - I would have never had the information either.

It is all fixable...

[lks dcvn]

Ok - I am cleaning out the stash of stuff and looking to get back to this project again (I keep saying that).

Looking to get the top off of this thing in the next few weeks and take it for a spin with the top off - that might get me motivated again.

I haven't had the top off since I bought it - it has been in the garage being worked on or out to turn around in the driveway - hasn't seen the road since the PO drove it to my house. This thing deserves some road time when it is up to snuff.

I sold off some of my extra parts since I got tired of them collecting dust and not being used.

I did just sell my Yukon GT and soon I will be selling my 1970 C10 that I use to haul stuff around - so that will free up another spot in the garage to work on this thing.

My buddy has offered to wire up the 220 in my garage so I can get that 60 gallon air compressor working and allow me to spray in my garage or use the air tools that I have acquired here and there.

I still can't get my door gaps dialed in on the blazer...what a pain. I took off both front fenders to get them right - no luck yet.

[fxdxharley]

Originally Posted by lks dcvn

It is all fixable...

smartest thing i have read all day!

[lks dcvn]

I have some updates on this thing...finally.

I bought a new Interstate battery for it
Swapped the rear two wheels and tires since the one kept going flat
I finished tightening down all the bolts for the rocker box end caps
Got it running pretty smooth now

This coming weekend I will be doing the brakes, the power steering pump swap and the exhaust - so this thing will be a driver finally.

I will get some pix up tonight.

[lks dcvn]

Pix - a day late...

Drums looked pretty crusty when I swapped over the rims/tires.

Yes - I know I don't have the last lug nut on...before anybody points that out.

And a few more pix of where I am now so I can get moving on this thing over the summer and get updated pix along the way.

[lks dcvn]

Here is a front shot of this thing and how it has sat for awhile now.

I went to swap out the front rims/tires today and found a safety lock on the front rims...lovely. Time to find a cheap 12 point socket and a BFH and go to work on them.

There is some rust left to fix on the bed:

A bit along where the tailgate meets the floor and some near the wheel tub on the driver side.

[lks dcvn]

I am marking where I intend to do the surgery on these sections to get back to clean metal...

Anybody have any scraps of these areas sitting around that they are looking to sell?

What is under the back floor area - is there a sub-floor to worry about?

Any tips on how to approach this area in the rear floor or inner bedside?

Lastly - here is the exhaust kit I am hoping to get installed this weekend.

[lks dcvn]

Found some inner bedside work here...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=171

and

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=174

[jaros44sr]

I happen to have some bed floor leftover, its not the end piece, but could be made easily enough. Give me some demensions of how much you need....

You can have it if you want

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by lks dcvn

...I went to swap out the front rims/tires today and found a safety lock on the front rims...lovely. Time to find a cheap 12 point socket and a BFH and go to work on them.

You can also weld a large nut to the top of the wheel lock and use a regular socket to break it loose. The heat of the welding job loosens it up some so try to break it loose right after you get done welding the nut on.

If you can't get it off at home most wheel & tire shops have a tapered cone socket with grooves in it like an inverse easy out that they can put on keyless wheel locks to get them off easily.

[jaros44sr]

There is nothing under the bed floor in that location, other then the last cross brace.

They make a repop panel now for the area around the rear wheelhouse

[lks dcvn]

Exhaust is now installed. No pics since the truck is still at the shop.

Power steering was just some alignment of the pump.

Brakes...another story.

I took it to my normal mechanic to have the exhaust work done and the brakes done.

He calls me and says that the pedal is still firm after everything is checked out. I asked him to check the vacuum line to the booster and see if it is collapsing - leading to a firm pedal. No luck.

He wonders if the hi-perf cam is too much in the 355 to create enough vacuum. He runs a test and finds 5" of vacuum. He checks compression and finds it to be great for the motor.

He replaced the booster just to be sure and it is the same feeling (he took it back off and didn't charge me for the labor). He is wondering about an electric vacuum pump for the brakes...

Anybody else been down this road with a large cam and inadequate brakes? The motor was rebuilt before I got the truck so I have no idea what cam is in there, but it does have a nice lope to it.

And just saw your post Jaros - when the truck is back I can let you know the dimensions. Thanks!

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by lks dcvn

...He wonders if the hi-perf cam is too much in the 355 to create enough vacuum. He runs a test and finds 5" of vacuum. He checks compression and finds it to be great for the motor.

He replaced the booster just to be sure and it is the same feeling (he took it back off and didn't charge me for the labor). He is wondering about an electric vacuum pump for the brakes...

Anybody else been down this road with a large cam and inadequate brakes? The motor was rebuilt before I got the truck so I have no idea what cam is in there, but it does have a nice lope to it.

Been there many times. 5" is way too low to make power brakes function. You might be able to adjust the idle mixture screws to give you a little more but probably not enough for them to work really well.

You need closer to 12" for them to work all the time. 8" to 10" and they will work the first hit of the pedal but if you let off and try them immediately again they will no longer be vacuum assisted.

A vacuum canister is your least expensive choice to fix the problem when you have too little vacuum due to a large cam if you want power brakes.

Hydraboost is your next best option but will cost a bit of money to do it.

You can also convert it to manual brakes. Probably the least expensive way to fix the problem. Manual disc was an option on 71 & 72's so you can go to the auto parts store and get the right master cylinder for the job. The bore size is smaller to work better in a manual brake configuration. You will just have to get a manual brake master cylinder pedal push rod but they are very common in the wrecking yards so it shouldn't be a big deal to get one.

[TonyJohnson]

Hydroboost sounds like the way to go. Will give you some more room in the engine bay, as well.

[lks dcvn]

Pricing out the hydroboost setup - anybody have a link to a parts list for this?

[jaros44sr]

Subscribed, would like to do that swap in the near future....so give us all the info. you can gather less work for me! Might even lookcool with stainless braided