My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

[jlsanborn]

Haha! The other day I was at the fence talking with the neighbor. She asked if I was in a band.

[Low Elco]

Mine are usually over listening to it, drinking my beer, hiding from their wives, etc.
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[jlsanborn]

So Johnny got pissed 2nite and had to walk away. The closer I looked, the more disappointed I am with the body work I've done. Then I look back at the bedsides, wheel tubs etc... and remember what I set out to do in the first place - driver, NOT show car. There's a ton of dings back there that I didn't even bother with. I'm getting kookey man! Really, I think it looks pretty good and sometimes I just have to step back and remember big picture.

I scuffed on that epoxy a bit, just where I've got obvious repairs to make and I'm worried I didn't get it on there heavy enough. It sure don't take much with P180 to get to metal. It was one wet coat. I had sags in a couple spots so I don't think I could have put it on much heavier???? Dunno.....

Then the seam sealer. The stuff I have has about the exact consistiency as Liquid Nails. Its much thicker than I was expecting. This crap is WAY STICKY too. I did some some inconspicuous areas then tried to "smooth" it a bit with the finger tip - bad idea. Laquer thinner cuts it but it also cuts the epoxy - ugh!!!! I made a mess. I watched some Youtube videos where dudes taped along both sides of the seam, layed a basic bead, then brushed it out. They pulled the tape immediately. I think I'll try that, but I'm not real sure I've got the best goo here. I'm really not looking forward to the drip rails! Them are UGLY from the factory and it just seems like it'll take a ton to make it look decent.

[Low Elco]

Try mineral spirits to smooth sealer. Get some slick sand primer. You're gonna be lumpy after the mud block. That stuff is magic for smoothing all that stuff. Don't freak. Do one panel at a time and focus keenly on what's in front of your face. It'll be cool.
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[jlsanborn]

Thanks dude! I went back out after chow and things aren't as bad as I made it sound. I'll keep rolling with the seam sealer and I'll try mineral spirits. Who makes the SS? I don't think they have it at the Napa store I've been using. There's a PPG distributor and a Sherwin Williams close by.

[Low Elco]

I think evercoat makes it. The ppg store will know what youre talking about.
Featherfill G2 is even better for you. Google both of these names. Autobodystore.com will show it, so will Eastwood. Just mudwork and epoxy IS NOT ENOUGH. You'll have a bunch of work and dough and it'll look like crap. You and the kid need to get some long blocks and G2 and hunker down and prime and block that sucker. A lot. DO NOT BE INTIMIDATED BY THIS. It's dirt easy, but this is the long hard work that separates the men from the boys.
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[Bomp]

I agree. Block, Block, Block and a beer too
Great advise and Im taking notes.

[butternut1972]

^^^^^What they said^^ But mine went Beer, Beer, Block,Beer,etc...you get the idea. I guess thats why it took so long to get paint on it. Take your time Buddy it's looking great.

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

I agree, you definitely need to sand with a long board. vehicle surfaces are just to big to do without it. and when you think you done, your probably not. once everything is level, get in close to inspect for minor blemishes, pinholes. If you can see it, then you will see it in the paint as well. It does take time, but you will be very happy with the end result !

[jlsanborn]

Been mad busy the last couple of days with work, kids and such. Brown dropped off more stuff tho! Rear cab moulding, gas pedal, headlight bezels, vent window rivets and a Hurst shifter boot! I'm going to get some reducer for that black paint and some feather fill tomorrow. Still gotta get some sanding blocks and paper. Its gonna be a wood splitting weekend however. I'll get back on it soon!

Killed ANOTHER deer with the Crummy this morning. Bout a three point, square broadside at 50mph. Deer is TOAST, not even a scratch on the truck. Bumper was about neck high and he got sucked right under. At least I wasn't towing the boat this time! That one was EEEEW!
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[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

I think evercoat makes it. The ppg store will know what youre talking about.
Featherfill G2 is even better for you. Google both of these names. Autobodystore.com will show it, so will Eastwood. Just mudwork and epoxy IS NOT ENOUGH. You'll have a bunch of work and dough and it'll look like crap. You and the kid need to get some long blocks and G2 and hunker down and prime and block that sucker. A lot. DO NOT BE INTIMIDATED BY THIS. It's dirt easy, but this is the long hard work that separates the men from the boys.
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Its about time that Boy became a MAN. Think this'll do it huh? Feather fill it is!

Originally Posted by Bomp

I agree. Block, Block, Block and a beer too
Great advise and Im taking notes.

How bout BLOCK, BEER, BLOCK, BEER, BEER, BLOCK, BEER, BEER, BEER, BLOCK? I see a pattern here! I'm anxious to get rolling and get to the color part!

Originally Posted by butternut1972

^^^^^What they said^^ But mine went Beer, Beer, Block,Beer,etc...you get the idea. I guess thats why it took so long to get paint on it. Take your time Buddy it's looking great.

I'm with you man! In a past life I was a cabinet builder. When you start you SAND. The boss is never happy with it neitha! I got the hang of it though and before you knew it I was working on the cool stuff!

Originally Posted by XxCHEVYMANxX

I agree, you definitely need to sand with a long board. vehicle surfaces are just to big to do without it. and when you think you done, your probably not. once everything is level, get in close to inspect for minor blemishes, pinholes. If you can see it, then you will see it in the paint as well. It does take time, but you will be very happy with the end result !

I really appreciate the advice and encouragement! Now about blocks.... For sure I'll get a long board, but what else should I get?? I've seen dudes use a chunk of air hose for inside radiuses and such. What about spots like the A pillar? It's pretty damn smooth with no metal work or filler. Dash? Headliner? Should I be "blocking" those surfaces too? What about firewall? Its epoxied. Should I just leave it until I'm ready for base coat then scuff it or should I scuff it and prime it again?

Thanks Chevy dudes!!!!

[steelhorse]

Looking good so far. Any word on the engine?

[jlsanborn]

Picked up that set of Durablocks and a gallon of Feather Fill. Will report!

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by steelhorse

Looking good so far. Any word on the engine?

Thanks dude! Haven't touched the engine yet. Still gotta get Boy to drag it down to the school for an inside mic. Maybe next week?

[Low Elco]

Yaaaay! Hot tip- take your sander and round one side of those d-blox over on about a 1/8 radius. They tend to dig in as you approach level changes. Also, most paint store cats are hot rodders-let em know what you're up to, they'll usually be helpful. You got a roll of 80 and a roll of 150 stickyback and some guide coat, right? I really like that 3m stuff. Remember, sand at a 45 angle away from you, long a stroke as possible, alternating directions to make an x. Hope im not being a pushy ass, just hoping your truck comes out good, youve made a great start! Good Luck!
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[Low Elco]

Also, the round d-block proved to be all I needed for the curves. I just scrubbed the firewall and a pillar smooth. Had a biiiig hole in both roof sides. Blocked the repair, scrubbed the rest. If you can still roll the cab on its back or flip it on its nose, that's the hot tip for painting the inner cab roof.
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[FrankieD]

Man I am glad I didn't have to do any major body work !!!

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Yaaaay! Hot tip- take your sander and round one side of those d-blox over on about a 1/8 radius. They tend to dig in as you approach level changes. Also, most paint store cats are hot rodders-let em know what you're up to, they'll usually be helpful. You got a roll of 80 and a roll of 150 stickyback and some guide coat, right? I really like that 3m stuff. Remember, sand at a 45 angle away from you, long a stroke as possible, alternating directions to make an x. Hope im not being a pushy ass, just hoping your truck comes out good, youve made a great start! Good Luck!
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Originally Posted by Low Elco

Also, the round d-block proved to be all I needed for the curves. I just scrubbed the firewall and a pillar smooth. Had a biiiig hole in both roof sides. Blocked the repair, scrubbed the rest. If you can still roll the cab on its back or flip it on its nose, that's the hot tip for painting the inner cab roof.
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Not pushy ass at all! I was eyeballin the easy road, thinkin I could half-ass down that way to assembly and you helped convince me. I appreciate that and all the tips and advice you're throwing my way. I really don't think it'll be that bad. I didn't get any abrasives cuz I still wasn't sure what I'd need. I'm done with the pucky except one small repiar I've got on a fender and then prolly just tiny spots here and there that show after epoxy. I was thinking 200 then 400 from here on out. I've got some 180 to scuff epoxy. What's the advantage to wet sanding? Is it just to wash the dust off you're work and keep the paper clean? That's gonna BLOW now that it's getting cold.

So for the firewall, pillars and areas that won't need blocked... Should I still put G2 on there before basecoat or should I only apply G2 where I need to block? Can I just use rattle can acrylic enamel or black primer for guide coat? What about tinting some of this G2? Oh ya, I just got grey. Is that going to be best for the butternut yellow and white basecoats?

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by FrankieD

Man I am glad I didn't have to do any major body work !!!

Me too!

This thing was really pretty solid Frankie. For the most part I just filled holes that the PO drilled here and there. There was some small areas of rot, but really nothing to speak of. Some of the stuff you see going on around here is amazing to me. Seen that Bomp fella? He's going to have some body work to do there!

[Low Elco]

You'll need 150 and 240 sticky back block paper, and some da paper in the same grit. They sell guide coat in a spray can at the paint store. DO NOT use any normal spray bomb stuff. Clogs paper and can cause bad juju. If your small areas are cool, apillars and such, you can wet sand epoxy with 400 or scuff with a scotchbrite, and shoot paint over it. Big areas, 2 coats g2, guide after dry, block 150. When good, shoot 1 coat g2, guide, block 240. When good, light coat g2, guide, wet block 400. Base and clear.edges and small smooth areas can be scrubbed in with a red scotchbrite (paint store) g2 where blocking needed, you can scuff epoxy and shoot paint over the rest.

[Bomp]

Looks like your down to the nitty-gritty. You'll be done and onto the boys rig next.
Things on my end. well. Slow but steady.
Did you get your heat situation figured out? Cause the stupid cold wet rain is here for awhile.

[jlsanborn]

You're ROCKIN! I may be to the nitty but I bet the gritty is gonna be a long road. I have this mental list going but I'm always like "oh ya, I gotta do that too". Every day while diggin through my piles of parts I find something that I spaced off or ain't figured out yet. I've gone WAY out of scope here but its gonna be cool!
Boy ain't all that interested in pimpin the S10. He wants to drop it another inch or two in the rear and get some cool rubber but that's about it. He's constantly on the craigslist looking at Chevelles, Novas and friggen knee knockers! I keep pushin him to go small block but he thinks it'd be gay or something!
Been splitting wood before the weather goes to hell. I'll be back on the project soon if my back holds up!
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[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

You'll need 150 and 240 sticky back block paper, and some da paper in the same grit. They sell guide coat in a spray can at the paint store. DO NOT use any normal spray bomb stuff. Clogs paper and can cause bad juju. If your small areas are cool, apillars and such, you can wet sand epoxy with 400 or scuff with a scotchbrite, and shoot paint over it. Big areas, 2 coats g2, guide after dry, block 150. When good, shoot 1 coat g2, guide, block 240. When good, light coat g2, guide, wet block 400. Base and clear.edges and small smooth areas can be scrubbed in with a red scotchbrite (paint store) g2 where blocking needed, you can scuff epoxy and shoot paint over the rest.

Thanks man! I'll pick up some gritty and git to it! I still have that seam sealer to finish up and touch up with epoxy but then i'll be blocking! I'll use Wifey's fancy camera and put up some good pics for your review and approval. Every pic on this thread to date has been from my phone!
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[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Looks like your down to the nitty-gritty. You'll be done and onto the boys rig next.
Things on my end. well. Slow but steady.
Did you get your heat situation figured out? Cause the stupid cold wet rain is here for awhile.

Heat is a beotch but I can make it warm in there. I've got it pretty well insulated and have a woodstove. I hung some fans up in the trusses too. It takes a LOT of wood though!
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[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Just checkin in on ya, I havent been on here the last few days. looks like low elco has you covered on paint/prep advice. couldnt have said it better. anyway hope your gettin along ok.