1949 Chevy 3600 into a daily driver

[BlueJeep]

Looking good! Not sure if you have your shackles figured out or not yet, but they don't have to point up like the s10 did. They can hang down from the springs, which will buy you a lot more room. But..if you've welded your spring perches on already I assume your shackles are done.

[Coach529]

Spent a little quality time with Henry last night.

I modified the Blazer lower shock mounts to accept the shocks I wanted to run.

Before:



After:





Everything bolted up the way I had hoped, but I am running into a bit of a snag.

The shocks I have are for a mid 60's C-10. Collapsed length is 12.56" I am going to have to lean these babies over about 40 degree's to get that length to work.





So do I lean them over....or try to find a shock with the same mounts that is a 2-3 inches shorter?

[solidaxel]

Looks like you have two good swap meet items !!
Spend some quality time with your parts counter folks and look for some shorter units.

[NEWFISHER]

Look at all new Chevy, Ford , Dodge trucks. They lean at an angle too ( forward and back). I do agree with the chart and the theory, but are you really going to feel or notice it? I would try to get a shorter shock, but wouldn't spend a ton of time looking and "run what ya brung" if it dead ends.

[OrrieG]

I'm with newfisher on this. As long as the shock in near the middle of the compression rebound point, try it and see if it feels ok.

[Coach529]

IN the sake of time, and my check book I am leaning towards running this ones. For now anyway!!

[Coach529]

I did not knock anything off my honey do list......but I made good progress with Henry!!

First line of business....cross member and shock mounts. I threw caution to the wind and leaned the shocks I had over.



I never did get a chance to cut my frame boxing plates at work wiht the plasma cutter, so plan B was in order. Jig saw and 24T blades. Easy peazy!! I blade per side is all it took. Not ideal, but it worked!!



Tacked in and read to start welding.



Not proud of the some of the welds.....but they are strong. Hopefully they will never see the light of day again!!



I got my new center caps and bullet lug nuts installed on one wheel as well!!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Your welding looks fine from here!

Which of course is as close as 99.5% of us will ever get to it. Besides, that's what they make grinders for! (Heresy, I know)

[Coach529]

I have alot of respect for guys who can lay down miles of weld and look awesome. I am not one of those guys.

Some spots look great.......other spots I wish someone else would have done so I could blame it on them!!

[Dan in Pasadena]

I know what you mean. I'm the Project Quality Manager for a major public agency on a very large civil engineering project. I approve welders for the job and I would fire me!

I can make a solid weld that is structurally sound; but they look like ****. I'd never consider doing my own welding on something like a frame clip or an IFS cross member. I guess I might tack it, but I'd have a certified welder do the actual welding. Fortunately, I don't own a stick welder. Only a 110v Hobart Handler 140 I bought to do rust repair on sheet metal only. And believe me, that's all I OUGHT to be doing! lol.

[Coach529]

You would be surpised what you can do with a 110v mig welder. All my stuff at home is done with with a Miller 110v Mig.

[_Ogre]

i'm with coach on the 110 v welders, most of truk was welded with a 110v fluxcore welder, all of the frame including the mustII xmember.

coach: what are your plans for a fuel tank?
if your mounting one behind the axle, typically you'll need to move the rear xmember and weld in some nuts in the frame.
nice work on boxing the frame.

[Luther Grimace]

Originally Posted by Coach529

That is correct, 1st and 3rd leaf pulled from the bottom.

I though briefly about the teflon.......but then kind of forgot all about it.

Was there a specific reason for the first and third?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

i'm with coach on the 110 v welders, most of truk was welded with a 110v fluxcore welder, all of the frame including the mustII xmember.

coach: what are your plans for a fuel tank?
if your mounting one behind the axle, typically you'll need to move the rear xmember and weld in some nuts in the frame.
nice work on boxing the frame.

Not a fan of flux core........

I have the stock tank cleaned and in the stock location for now. At some point a tank might be added under the bed.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Luther Grimace

Was there a specific reason for the first and third?
Posted via Mobile Device

I read something about it at one point..........the reason escapes me now though!!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Coach529

Not a fan of flux core........

I have the stock tank cleaned and in the stock location for now. At some point a tank might be added under the bed.

Coach, You might want to take a look thru Chuck Driver's '57 build. He bought a generic tank from Tanks, Inc. and his install looks great. Plus, if I understand him it was pretty damned cheap.

I hope no one thinks I was talking down 110v welders; I've GOT one. I had just heard you can't do major structural fabbing due to a lack of heat.
I also heard you can do more if you're able to preheat the metal.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Coach, You might want to take a look thru Chuck Driver's '57 build. He bought a generic tank from Tanks, Inc. and his install looks great. Plus, if I understand him it was pretty damned cheap.

I hope no one thinks I was talking down 110v welders; I've GOT one. I had just heard you can't do major structural fabbing due to a lack of heat.
I also heard you can do more if you're able to preheat the metal.

Welders have come along way in the past couple years. I would not hesitate to to weld anything that needed to be welded on my truck with it. Rated to 3/16" steel.

[Coach529]

Punch list is getting smaller:

* Mount front shocks
* mount master cylinder
* Run brake lines
* bleed brake system
********Test Drive*********

* Install bed
* Tailights
* Trique Latch Install
* Weather Stripping
* Stereo
* Seat Rebuild
*

[xpickup]

Coach529, Looks great. It is alway good when the list gets smaller and the best part is the test drive. I never realized that the 3600 frame were so much different than the 3100 besides the length till I read your thread. I just traded some labor (changed bolt pattern on some wheels) for a bare 3600 frame. Keep up the great work.

Shannon

[coralhead]

Just looking at your boxed in rear frame. You may need to allow an access cutout to get to the nut/washer to bolt the bed down.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by coralhead

Just looking at your boxed in rear frame. You may need to allow an access cutout to get to the nut/washer to bolt the bed down.

I am trying to debate the easiest way to do that. I was thinking of making some square tubing mounts instead of using the wood. I could use some rubber belting between the bed and mount.

[coralhead]

Originally Posted by Coach529

I am trying to debate the easiest way to do that. I was thinking of making some square tubing mounts instead of using the wood. I could use some rubber belting between the bed and mount.

I think the easiest way would be to mount your steel risers, with nut access, to your bed then set the bed on the truck, align with the front and rear bed mounts, and then tack the risers to the frame and then unbolt the bed, remove and finish welding to the frame. That way the holes will align.

My .02

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by coralhead

I think the easiest way would be to mount your steel risers, with nut access, to your bed then set the bed on the truck, align with the front and rear bed mounts, and then tack the risers to the frame and then unbolt the bed, remove and finish welding to the frame. That way the holes will align.

My .02

We think alike.........I was pondering a similar method myself.

[Luther Grimace]

What did you do about the steering to prevent bumpsteer? Is that something that Sid take care of with the steering arms?

[1-ton of fun]

Originally Posted by coralhead

Just looking at your boxed in rear frame. You may need to allow an access cutout to get to the nut/washer to bolt the bed down.

i was about to box mine, and thought about just drilling holes in the bottom of the frame that line up with the ones on the top. then i can use really long carriage bolts and the nut will be just under the frame, easy to access.