S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by burger

Does anyone have experience doing this with a 4x4 S10?

I will in a couple of months. July project is a 41 chevy going on a 4x4 chassis. 4wd should be about an identical process.

[burger]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I will in a couple of months. July project is a 41 chevy going on a 4x4 chassis. 4wd should be about an identical process.

Awesome! Are you planning a build thread? Any details on the plans? Will it sit high, low... somewhere in the middle?


Ed

[T Hilde]

I think it was here that a guy used a ZR2 S10 with good results.

[burger]

Thanks for the heads up. Found it. (link to 4wd Z52 / 49 truck thread)

Ed

[skymangs]

Truck will be about stock s10 4wd height. He wants to be able to take it camping and drive it in the winter.

[T-P Auto]

skymangs;

This is off post;

Help ! !


I have the truck wired thur the fuse panel;
I just don't have a charging system thur the fuse panel ?
When I do get it to charge, then when I try to shut it off, it will not die till I disconnet the charge wire?
I'm useing the wiring diagram from a S10 haynes book.

T-P Auto
Tim

[skymangs]

Call me brother. We'll figure it out. Run on can be caused by several issues. Too many questions to diagnose on thread.

[T-P Auto]

Skymangs;
Will call later this afternoon.
Thanks;
T-P Auto
Tim

[Coldshot]

Since your kinda of the topic of wiring, just wanted to know what wiring kits you suggest for these swaps? Does it make much difference what engine you run? Exc. LS, stock S10 or 350.

[Sim6]

Cold shot, check out post 98,99,100..........

[skymangs]

I use ez wiring 12 or 21 circuit harnesses depending on how many power accessories the build will have. Basic carb'd 350 gets a 12 circuit, start adding power seats, windows, door poppers, locks, etc y hen it needs a 21 circuit harness.

[Coldshot]

Thanks, I knew it was in there's somewhere

[4orty6and2]

Evening guys and skymangs! New guy here, been doing soooo much reading and checking out everybodies trucks.. love this site!!! First post on the forum and here is where its going to be!
Ive read every one of these posts 15 times over before I went digging in .. im a measure twice cut once guy... anyways. Im working on a 1951 AD short bed, have it finally sitting on an 89 S10 long bed chassis,, ive put a whole new front end in, quick ratio steering box, 4x4 (top of the line 04ish Envoy) rear diff with sway bar, disk and 3:73 gears(rare im told)

anyways I made your version 1 mounts and have tacked the fronts 2 1/8th" forward of the oval frame hole just behind the flare of the frame , I have the back end resting on a floor jack just to double check where the rears mounts need to go.. and where I need to be is 8 1/8th from the rear of the 5/8 hole.. which is fine.. but something isn't looking right to me. I have the drivers fender someone dangling there just to get a visual.. I don't seem to be centered in the wheel well , its like the cab needs to move forward some... ut I just wanted to ask if this is looking right to you.. I have uploaded a few pics.. your help and knowledge has and is greatly appreciated!!!

[4orty6and2]

if it all looks good then ill carry on.. if there are any other measurments I can make to make sure im in the right spot please advise. Back of the cab to the front of the forward box mount anything like that?

[FamilyBowTie]

I ended up putting my mounts 3.1/8" fwd to center my wheels. It looked ok with 15" wheels at 2.1/8 but when I put 20" wheels on it looked off so I moved the mounts 1" forward. After putting the fenders/grill on I ended up cutting the front frame horns right where they should be (at the PS).

I just put the 20"s back on and you can see a pic on my build thread. Happy with the sheet metal now. Now on to lowering it and getting the driveline connected.

Hope this helps.

[FamilyBowTie]

I've been trying to find headers for my build. My motor is a 350 out of a 93 1500. I've looked at the Patriot and some others and they all seem to say they do NOT work with angled heads/plugs.

Are there another option other than switching out the heads?

[tlorber]

4orty6, keep in mind that as you add weight, the upper control arms articulate slightly (I believe to the rear, but I forget ). Make sure you have accounted for that movement before final burn in.

[skymangs]

Also, bolt the grill in. It spreads the front of the fenders some, and changes how the wheel looks in the fender.

I'm not sure why your rear measurement is 8 1/8th. From the rear edge of that 5/8 hole, 10.5" should mark the forward edge of your cab stand. That measurement should allow you to use one of the exsisting body mount holes to bolt your cab to the stand.

[skymangs]

Bowtie; not sure on angled plugs. The early 90's 5.7s I've seen have all been straight plugs.

[skymangs]

Here's a tidbit that should help you LS guys.
So the radiator hose part numbers are as follows:

Upper rad hose
22248
or
22227

Lower:
21045
Lower will require a straight water neck. See below.

Straight water neck Part number 2671 from Mr. Gasket on Ebay.

[918733]

Are those part numbers for small block hoses or ls either way good info thanks

[Steveareno]

Originally Posted by 918733

Are those part numbers for small block hoses or ls either way good info thanks

LS, I think according to the first line if I read it right.

[skymangs]

Yeah, those are for LS, with the radiator upper radiatropening on the passenger side. For a small block I just use an upper hose for a 75 chevy pickup. I have numbers for good lower hoses in the shop. I'll try to post it up tomorrow.

[Cautrell05]

Thanks for putting this out there for us to refer too. A lot of great info here. My 47 is still on the trailer and I need to go check out an s-10 this week so we can get started. Thanks again.
Nick

[Cautrell05]

[quote=Strodder;7148463]I've been following this thread, and not sure if someone addressed the issue of mounting the front bumper. Here's what I did. I made a bracket from 1X2 tubing and slipped it into the frame and clamped it. I forgot to take a picture of what it looked like. Sorry. Then welded a nut in the inside part of the bumper brackets so a bolt can be bolted through the bracket and frame. Then I had to modify the bumper brackets so the bumper would be centered. After I had everything centered I did the final welding and boxed in the front frame around the brackets I made that lets the bumper brackets slide in. I can undo 4 bolts and the whole bumper and brackets come right out. Here's the pictures I took. Hope you like the idea.





Nice clean mount for the bumper.

Not sure if you figured it out yet but your center link is on backwards. took me a bit to figure out why the inner tie rods looked off.

Nick