57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[FAKKY]

Well getting a few things done.

Did what jodoe/drsraven said and pulled the column back, got rig of the double joint at the column which was creating a bunch of issues and ended up here with straight rod, 1 single support bearing and all angles at between 30-36 degree's. No binding.











USed those measurements as well as this website to determine final angles

https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/angle_measurement/

....

Mocked out my PS lines ........ with my chicken strathc


And then as e015475 suggested ...... I replaced all fittings with JIC/6AN [16/18mm x 1.5mm] .... and ordered hydraulic hose from discounthydraulic hose which all came in like 3 days delivered to hose. Super quick.



Got the Radiator in with a little bit of trimming.




Now need to wrok on fan and shroud ....... them get it plumbed with the transmission cooler lines as well as coolant.

Getting closer to first start at least. Oh yeah fixed and finished bulk of my ls wiring ... obviouusly still a lot more to do ther ewith teh chassis wiring and connecting it all up properly to starter/battery and lights/gaauges etc.

[joedoh]

woop woop! nice work!

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

woop woop! nice work!

lol - right now I feel like its a few of you guys on here building my truck - not me ..... but I'll take it in order to get to the finish line.

[joedoh]

its easier to edit than it is to create, you are creating!

[FAKKY]

So this is my final fan clearance. Its tight - but I think its ok - thoughts ?





A "little" anxious if there is going to be enough fan also ....... was a cheap ebay special I got cheaper in a package deal with shroud.

Basically one of these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-RA...AAAOSw6WJdk7ib

[dsraven]

I guess the other thing you could do is try a double fan unit so the motors would be offset from the centre, maybe give more room since the motors and the water pump wouldn't need to share the space. you would want to check clearance with engine torquing up as well.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I guess the other thing you could do is try a double fan unit so the motors would be offset from the centre, maybe give more room since the motors and the water pump wouldn't need to share the space. you would want to check clearance with engine torquing up as well.

So as long as I cycle the suspenion -- and it doesnt have any interference - should be good ?

Think im going to need to get a straight water thermostat housing.....

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-4932/overview/





Tried about 3 hoses I thought might work from auto parts store .... even with cutting its only a 50/50 chance.

[dsraven]

you could always use some bent up aluminized muffler tubing and use rubber/silicone hose at the ends where the connections are. otherwise cut the housing and turn the outlet/inlet and have it welded back on and leak tested.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

you could always use some bent up aluminized muffler tubing and use rubber/silicone hose at the ends where the connections are. otherwise cut the housing and turn the outlet/inlet and have it welded back on and leak tested.

Looked at cutting the housing like you said .... couldnt see a good way to get a clean cut with a 4.5" saw or a plasma cutter ..... so went with this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Chevy-...72.m2749.l2649

Finished off my main fuel line and also my transmission lines all in 6AN ptfe.
Bought the adapters (6an/ntps on transmisison side and 6 an 1/2-20 on transmisison cooler side).

Fuel neck filler also.


So once that all arrives ...... get it all plumbed in and thasts basically the plumbing done. Might be getting closer to to a hotwire start.

Probably going to buy one of these over the vintage air. They are local.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-C-KIT-UNI...kAAOSwCWRcBv23

I already have the compressor too. So should be a good price. Not sure about those hoses with ferrule fittings - but they say they work.

"This kit includes a complete FITTING SET
With FERRULES and CLAMPS
(We include both systems No special tools require DIY)
Clamps (made in the USA) Support 300Psi (Tested)
"

[FAKKY]

Got those innner fendor mounts cut up to spec per your post dsraven .... they look good ..... so thats awesome. I really cant say enough about this product ....

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performa...caAraSEALw_wcB

Obviously limited to slightly thinner material .... but for most of what I need ... awesome.

Those grommets are WAY expensive. Wonder if I can use/find some thick rubber somewhere. $15.

https://www.ebay.com/i/312050055902?...oaAp8sEALw_wcB

[joedoh]

put the serpentine belt on before you get excited about a hose that fits! experience talking here.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

put the serpentine belt on before you get excited about a hose that fits! experience talking here.

Hey joedog
You mean for lower hose >? Yes --- good point I need to order that .... pic looks like there should be ok clearance ....


https://www.ictbillet.com/catalog/pr.../category/163/

[dug224]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

So this is my final fan clearance. Its tight - but I think its ok - thoughts ?

The back of my radiator cooling fan ended up about as close to the engine as yours. No problems so far. I'm running a late model corvette radiator sized for a 6.0 liter engine with no shroud and one electric fan similar to yours. Also added the condenser with two pusher fans and the engine stays right a 210 degree F on a hot day with the AC running.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Hey joedog
You mean for lower hose >? Yes --- good point I need to order that .... pic looks like there should be ok clearance ....


https://www.ictbillet.com/catalog/pr.../category/163/

yes that should be fine, I am used to the belt going outboard there on the tensioner, not inboard like that one.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dug224

The back of my radiator cooling fan ended up about as close to the engine as yours. No problems so far. I'm running a late model corvette radiator sized for a 6.0 liter engine with no shroud and one electric fan similar to yours. Also added the condenser with two pusher fans and the engine stays right a 210 degree F on a hot day with the AC running.

Awesome.


I debated on Vintage Air and deciced to go local (because they are local) and cheaper.
Supposedly this gives 22000 BTU versus the Vintage Air Gen14 (18000) or Heritage heat/coool (12000). Obiously Im sure the numbers are all over the place for everyone.



http://coldmasterinc.com/product/ac-...no-compressor/

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

yes that should be fine, I am used to the belt going outboard there on the tensioner, not inboard like that one.

Thx for keeping me in check and thinking of things I would typically just not think about.

Bought htis thermostat housing (swivel) at 45 deg.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Chevy-...72.m2749.l2649

[FAKKY]

So thermostat from ebay is great - except the housing is about 2mm too small which means I cant get the OEM gasket/thermostat in ... its too tight.

So options

1) I did manage to cut the original thermostat housing to a point I think I can tig weld it.
Wish I had tried to begin with - but didnt think a grinder cutting wheel would have enough depth and I dont own a bandsaw. There was just enough depth to get it done.

2) Clock and mark the ebay swivel housing where I want it ..... then weld it so no leaks through the housing. Then use a small rubber gasket and gasket sealer to seal the thermostat inside ?

Thoughts ?





OEM housing cut and rotated

[FAKKY]

AC blower in ..... kinda sucky job with that rear bracket and this was a bit bigger than I thought .... but going to swing with it.

[FAKKY]

So was looking over this thread on the condensor setups ....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=655540

Im going to be having a small pusher fan on front of condenser. I think I will need to pull out the core crossover support bits in order to fit all that ..... anyone see any issues ?

How much room is there for clearance until you hit something like the bumper or front grill etc Im guessing quite a bit ?

[FAKKY]

Knocked that out ....... but put a big dent in radiator at same time when hammer slipped ... always something where I dont pay atttention.





Not 100% sure how to test for leak without a lot of air and a bunch of plugs .... probably cross fingers ...... and let her get up to temp before i put on any sheet meal front end.

[FAKKY]

Not sure on pedal height - think its like ~2" too high ..... is there a way to get a measurement to set properly or just by what feels good for you.

So both will probably have to be modified.

[FAKKY]

Part of problem with the brake pedal is the hydrobbost push rod. Its really not perfectly straight and just a biit too long.



I think most guys just cut and shorten and reweld ...... I have an adustable head if I can thread the rod ....... not sure I really want to pull it and try and get it back in clean ...
plus if the threading on rod goes sideways

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...thread-323472/

[FAKKY]

Clocked and tig welded the thermostat housing.
Was such a crap job with my welding .... even after cleanup .... not sure if I feel good about using it.



Kind of blew into the seal area there.



Definitely a day of 1 step forward two steps back .......

[FAKKY]

Ac condenser fabbed up for cross member fitment.





pusher fan.

[FAKKY]

The #6 and #8 Ac lines for condensor are tight around crossmember .... thinking I might have to go with

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rigerant-lines

Who knows of a good reasoably priced 5/8 tube bender ?
or
A long 45 degrees beadlock fitting
This will be too short

http://shorturl.at/jlrzK