Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

The Power Oilanator 3000
(Patent Pending)

[enaberif]

Have fun preoiling.. It takes time a damn good drill.

[hatzie]

Nice.

Don't let SWMBO catch ya.

[rich weyand]

A caution. You got two valve cover breathers, and you like clean engine bays...

HOWEVER

... you *need* a PCV valve on one valve cover. Blow-by puts exhaust gasses in the crankcase. You can either suck them out with a PCV valve, or you can let them condense in the crankcase, in which case they will soon sludge up all the internals on your new engine. Even after 10,000 miles, you can see a huge difference on the internals of an engine with a PCV valve and one without.

You can put it on the passenger-side valve cover, which would put it in the back, and connect it with a short hose to the back of the intake manifold or carb.

[Will206]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

A caution. You got two valve cover breathers, and you like clean engine bays...

HOWEVER

... you *need* a PCV valve on one valve cover. Blow-by puts exhaust gasses in the crankcase. You can either suck them out with a PCV valve, or you can let them condense in the crankcase, in which case they will soon sludge up all the internals on your new engine. Even after 10,000 miles, you can see a huge difference on the internals of an engine with a PCV valve and one without.

You can put it on the passenger-side valve cover, which would put it in the back, and connect it with a short hose to the back of the intake manifold or carb.

Yea, I just went through this. I was going to do two breathers but after a fair amount of reading decided PCV really is helpful and can extend engine life.

Then the mystery of what PVC to buy...Fram makes a variety of them, but its near impossible to find the specs on them. There's a company that makes a really nice one, but $130 for a PCV is pretty steep for me: http://mewagner.com/?page_id=444

I decided to just go with one of these from Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-440308/

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

A caution. You got two valve cover breathers, and you like clean engine bays...

HOWEVER

... you *need* a PCV valve on one valve cover. Blow-by puts exhaust gasses in the crankcase. You can either suck them out with a PCV valve, or you can let them condense in the crankcase, in which case they will soon sludge up all the internals on your new engine. Even after 10,000 miles, you can see a huge difference on the internals of an engine with a PCV valve and one without.

You can put it on the passenger-side valve cover, which would put it in the back, and connect it with a short hose to the back of the intake manifold or carb.

Sir you have finally convinced me, The Greg will run a PCV valve from the valve cover to the base of the carb! ha ha

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

A caution. You got two valve cover breathers, and you like clean engine bays...

HOWEVER

... you *need* a PCV valve on one valve cover. Blow-by puts exhaust gasses in the crankcase. You can either suck them out with a PCV valve, or you can let them condense in the crankcase, in which case they will soon sludge up all the internals on your new engine. Even after 10,000 miles, you can see a huge difference on the internals of an engine with a PCV valve and one without.

You can put it on the passenger-side valve cover, which would put it in the back, and connect it with a short hose to the back of the intake manifold or carb.

This one's for you Rich, it only took you a year to convince me to run one! ha ha, hey I may be slow, but I do come around eventually - now going back to manifolds and dumping these P.I.A. headers that is a whole different "discussion"

[Gregski]

The Greg had the Best Day In the Garage Ever !!!

so lets get you some updates...

today was Engine Assembly Day - EAD

check on out my Cam Opener (get it Cam Opener?!)

[Gregski]

GM Chevrolet Performance Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft, Part Number 24502476


Old Cam Lobe Lift - - - - - New Cam Lobe Lift
.260" / .273" - - - - - - - - - - - .290" / .307"



Old Cam Valve Lift - - - - - New Cam Valve Lift

.390" / .410" - - - - - - - - - - - .435" / .460"

... and after a liberal amount of assembly lube, the turkey went in the oven, (no cam bearings were harmed during this operation)

[Gregski]

got the timing set on and the timing marks aligned properly

then the timing cover went on, we used spray on adhesive on both sides of the paper thin timing cover gasket for good measure

[Gregski]

the nice thick Fel-Pro oil pan gasket went on next with smigeons of Ultra Black RTV gasket maker in the corners and in the half circle valleys in the front and rear of the pan

Fun Level so far = 11.6

Remember: not all the oil pan bolts get torqued down the same way the 4 corner ones are more bigger, lol

[Gregski]

then we flipped her over right side up again and slid in the properly lubed up with assembly lube hydraulic flat tapped lifters

[Gregski]

the heads wen ton next and were properly torqued down to 65 ft lbs in three phases

Phase 1 - 20 ft lbs

Phase 2 - 40 ft lbs

Phase 3 - 65 ft lbs

here's a looksie from both the front and the back of the motor

Fun Level temporarily dipped to 10.7 (LOL) as the engine stand wanted to slide all over the garage floor under such high torque, lol

[Gregski]

then when a push came to shove it was time to drop in the push rods

[Gregski]

the harmonic balancer went on, the crank shaft pulley went on and this thing was beginning to look like a long block

[Gregski]

nest it was time for the mandatory Vortec style intake manifold to go with our new(ish) vortec Cylinder heads - the V cut is different in traditional Small Block Chevy heads valley than the Vortecs

we used some nice thick Fel-Pro gaskets on the heads and a nice 1/8 inch bead of Ultra Black RTV gas maker on the China walls in the front and the back of the block, making sure some went down into the three pre drilled holes for better anchoring

[Gregski]

next the brand new Thermostat housing went on minus the thermostat (not recommended for engine break in) and the Fun Level spiked back up to 11.0

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Gregski

next the brand new Thermostat housing went on minus the thermostat (not recommended for engine break in)

Where did you hear that? Internal combustion engines like to run at around 185-210, new or used. Most damage is done at lower temps, such as moisture accumulating in crankcase.

Glad to see you got your head problem solved w/o spending mucho dinero. Can't believe how fast you got them off that junk yard engine. I guess it's faster when you can simply cut hoses and lines and not have to worry about saving all the fasteners.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Glad to see you got your head problem solved w/o spending mucho dinero. Can't believe how fast you got them off that junk yard engine. I guess it's faster when you can simply cut hoses and lines and not have to worry about saving all the fasteners.

Nothing was cut, I am not one of those guys that comes through like a tornato, I purposely unplugged all the dreaded GM clips, etc. The bolts, well that's another story most ended up on the ground.

[Gregski]

the water pump and the distributor found its way to the engine, and man doesn't it look great!

(The Greg was getting excited at this point, all that hard work paying off)

check out how Awesome that crank pulley turned out, and how clean everything looks, I will post some before and after shots of the dirty engine compared to the clean one, man its so much nicer to wrench on now

[Gregski]

put the valve covers on just for fun

[Gregski]

Headers go on - YEAH BABY!!!

Don't you just love the new darker Cast Iron paint on the headers better than that white looking silver I had on them before?

The stock Vortec style spark plug wire brackets don't fit with the headers, the headers get in the way, no big deal but just letting you know.

[Gregski]

carburetor went on just for fun and we began routing the spark plug wires, better to figure them out now than while the engine is in the truck

I think these are just the dime a dozen Duralast plug wires from Autozone, so I may buy another duplicate set and between the two sets I should have enough right length ones to route them all under the headers and around the back of the motor (plan on using the wire socks on them to circumvent the heat off the headers, plus those booties will be hidden out of sight)

[Gregski]

put the 3" inch Mr. Gasket air cleaner on the carb, and I think it looks whimpy and flat as a pancake, plus I have enough threads on the sticky stick to go at least one inch taller, so I may just buy a new one, ha ha

[Gregski]

now you may be asking yourself why put the air cleaner on when you may have to take it all off to drop the engine in the truck, but I tell you it is so nice to mock things up outside the truck, and sure enough after adjusting my plug wire order one over, counter clockwise so that #1 points at the #1 cylinder (not mandatory, but I prefer it) my air cleaner hits the plug wires

so I think one of them 1 inch Phylharmonic carb spacers is in The Greg's near future, hee hee not only will it gives me the clearance I deserve but I think the fuel air mixture will be colder, denser, and more happier - I hear them spacers really make a difference, any of youz runnin' them?