Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

I is tired so here are some random pics - push rods and lifters soaking in the Special Sauce!

[Gregski]

spent about 45 minutes per side chasing the threads in the 17 head bolts per side

since I didn't trust my cheapie tap or chaser what ever it is called, heck there may be even a difference, I just decided to clean an old bolt or two very well with a wire wheel and using mineral spirits so that I wouldn't go in dry I cleaned up all the holes until I could screw in a bolt by hand and unscrew it by hand

clean threads are important because these bad boys will be torques down to spec and we don't want the heads a warpin'

Fun level - 5.8

[Gregski]

I leave you with a question, if I don't plan on using my heater core, do I need to loop the intake manifold to dump directly into the water pump using that short hose about 6 inches or so, or can I just plug that opening in the intake manifold, especially since the matching hole is already plugged in the new water pump,

port in question shown with the screwdriver below

[KQQL IT]

Plug it

[68Timber]

This beats the hell out of basketball.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Plug it

AMEN brotha! next time could you summarize what you are going to say and not ramble on and on like that, jk, LOL

thanks again

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 68Timber

This beats the hell out of basketball.

ha ha, yup

[hatzie]

You don't have AC so you may want the option of running the defroster to clear fog off the glass on a spring or winter evening when the air is damp.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Chaplain

California weather is so good you don't need the heater core...What's gives?

yup, pretty much, plus The Greg don't like cluttered engine bays

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

You don't have AC so you may want the option of running the defroster to clear fog off the glass on a spring or winter evening when the air is damp.

aint that what my long sleeves are for, but you're right, there will be a morning when I will regret it and wish I had heat

[hatzie]

Run copper hard lines with hoses at the ends. Bead the ends to keep the hoses on.
Maybe;
1 along the frame from the water pump hose to up under the heater box.
1 along the intake to the back of the engine... Or maybe both.
1 possibly 2 along the firewall close to the back of the engine.
Copper can be soldered side by side with a slight bump up at the ends to allow two hoses with clamps side by side.
You can buy formed 90° & 45° heater hoses.

Polished copper could look interesting. Or you could paint em to make them blend.

[Gregski]

Ladies and Gentlemen, today is literally The Greg's wifes birthday, needless to say the garage is off limits, so lets keep this on the downlow shall we, cause if she was to find out she would kill me, but I know in my heart of hearts that if she found out that I was about to try to prime my newly re assembly Chebby with a home made distributor stir stick with the cam gear still on it, she would be even more upset, so what I am trying to say here, in a round and about way, we are doing this here modification for her, wouldn't you agree, it's essentially damn if I do, damn if I don't situtation

[Gregski]

The Power Oilanator 3000
(Patent Pending)

[enaberif]

Have fun preoiling.. It takes time a damn good drill.

[hatzie]

Nice.

Don't let SWMBO catch ya.

[rich weyand]

A caution. You got two valve cover breathers, and you like clean engine bays...

HOWEVER

... you *need* a PCV valve on one valve cover. Blow-by puts exhaust gasses in the crankcase. You can either suck them out with a PCV valve, or you can let them condense in the crankcase, in which case they will soon sludge up all the internals on your new engine. Even after 10,000 miles, you can see a huge difference on the internals of an engine with a PCV valve and one without.

You can put it on the passenger-side valve cover, which would put it in the back, and connect it with a short hose to the back of the intake manifold or carb.

[Will206]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

A caution. You got two valve cover breathers, and you like clean engine bays...

HOWEVER

... you *need* a PCV valve on one valve cover. Blow-by puts exhaust gasses in the crankcase. You can either suck them out with a PCV valve, or you can let them condense in the crankcase, in which case they will soon sludge up all the internals on your new engine. Even after 10,000 miles, you can see a huge difference on the internals of an engine with a PCV valve and one without.

You can put it on the passenger-side valve cover, which would put it in the back, and connect it with a short hose to the back of the intake manifold or carb.

Yea, I just went through this. I was going to do two breathers but after a fair amount of reading decided PCV really is helpful and can extend engine life.

Then the mystery of what PVC to buy...Fram makes a variety of them, but its near impossible to find the specs on them. There's a company that makes a really nice one, but $130 for a PCV is pretty steep for me: http://mewagner.com/?page_id=444

I decided to just go with one of these from Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-440308/

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

A caution. You got two valve cover breathers, and you like clean engine bays...

HOWEVER

... you *need* a PCV valve on one valve cover. Blow-by puts exhaust gasses in the crankcase. You can either suck them out with a PCV valve, or you can let them condense in the crankcase, in which case they will soon sludge up all the internals on your new engine. Even after 10,000 miles, you can see a huge difference on the internals of an engine with a PCV valve and one without.

You can put it on the passenger-side valve cover, which would put it in the back, and connect it with a short hose to the back of the intake manifold or carb.

Sir you have finally convinced me, The Greg will run a PCV valve from the valve cover to the base of the carb! ha ha

[Gregski]

The Greg had the Best Day In the Garage Ever !!!

so lets get you some updates...

today was Engine Assembly Day - EAD

check on out my Cam Opener (get it Cam Opener?!)

[Gregski]

GM Chevrolet Performance Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft, Part Number 24502476


Old Cam Lobe Lift - - - - - New Cam Lobe Lift
.260" / .273" - - - - - - - - - - - .290" / .307"



Old Cam Valve Lift - - - - - New Cam Valve Lift

.390" / .410" - - - - - - - - - - - .435" / .460"

... and after a liberal amount of assembly lube, the turkey went in the oven, (no cam bearings were harmed during this operation)

[Gregski]

got the timing set on and the timing marks aligned properly

then the timing cover went on, we used spray on adhesive on both sides of the paper thin timing cover gasket for good measure

[Gregski]

the nice thick Fel-Pro oil pan gasket went on next with smigeons of Ultra Black RTV gasket maker in the corners and in the half circle valleys in the front and rear of the pan

Fun Level so far = 11.6

Remember: not all the oil pan bolts get torqued down the same way the 4 corner ones are more bigger, lol

[Gregski]

then we flipped her over right side up again and slid in the properly lubed up with assembly lube hydraulic flat tapped lifters

[Gregski]

the heads wen ton next and were properly torqued down to 65 ft lbs in three phases

Phase 1 - 20 ft lbs

Phase 2 - 40 ft lbs

Phase 3 - 65 ft lbs

here's a looksie from both the front and the back of the motor

Fun Level temporarily dipped to 10.7 (LOL) as the engine stand wanted to slide all over the garage floor under such high torque, lol

[Gregski]

then when a push came to shove it was time to drop in the push rods