Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

so The Greg began cleaning the parts for the new transmission, starting with the new cross member, I have not pulled out my old cross member yet for a stare and compare but I think they is different

the new one I think is multi talented in that it (I'm taking a guess here) can support the TH350 Trubo 350 automatic as well as the 833 manual, correct me if I am wrong, I think it is also rubber mounted, oh yeah this is where I tell you the donor truck was a 1984 supposedly (I never saw it)

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so The Greg began cleaning the parts for the new transmission, starting with the new cross member, I have not pulled out my old cross member yet for a stare and compare but I think they is different

the new one I think is multi talented in that it (I'm taking a guess here) can support the TH350 Trubo 350 automatic as well as the 833 manual, correct me if I am wrong, I think it is also rubber mounted, oh yeah this is where I tell you the donor truck was a 1984 supposedly (I never saw it)

That is multi talented looks just like a 4X4 cross member.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Titomars

That is multi talented looks just like a 4X4 cross member.

OK, that makes sense. But wait a minute. The seller said his boys were going to convert an automatic 4x4 truck to the 833 manual, and I pulled this crossmember off of the 4x4 automatic truck not quite understanding what the dad was telling me I was just grabbing what ever parts he was willing to part with. So maybe this crossmember will work with my trans, or maybe I didn't even need it.

One thing I just learned looking at my old pics of my crossmember, is that mine is mounted high to the top frame rail ie C channel where as the new crossmember I believe was mounted down low to the bottom of the frame rail C channel.

[Gregski]

and into the paint booth it went, actually used POR15 on this baby for durability, I like painting things with a brush, need to do that more, spraying wastes a lot more prodcut

[Gregski]

the transmission bracket that goes between the transmission and the crossmember looks different than the one for the SM465 granny gear Muncie, slightly different, they both attach to the trans with two bolts and that top part matches, but the bottom is different the Muncie attaches with two bolts, the 833 uses just one

top Muncie bracket

bottom 833 bracket

keep in mind I have not done this swap yet, I am in the process so if I state or make any mistakes, please correct me

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

the transmission bracket that goes between the transmission and the crossmember looks different than the one for the SM465 granny gear Muncie, slightly different, they both attach to the trans with two bolts and that top part matches, but the bottom is different the Muncie attaches with two bolts, the 833 uses just one

top Muncie bracket

bottom 833 bracket

keep in mind I have not done this swap yet, I am in the process so if I state or make any mistakes, please correct me

you can use the 2 bolt if you like dependent on your cross member. Or if you have a preference of one or two bolts. mount height is the only thing you might need to watch for. GM used basically 2 different heights. the difference is about 1 inch between the two

[Gregski]

alright lets see these beauties side by side

833 on top

Muncie on bottom

[Gregski]

I think I am going to use the new bell housing just because I don't like the pointy Bermuda triangle in my old one, it just gets in the way, no idea what it's for

plus since both the bell and the trans have the dual bolt patterns I may put in a few extra bolts just for good measure, to control that torque monster, ha ha

[Gregski]

and so the Greg cleaned and clear coated another bell housing

[Gregski]

as a matter of fact got the entire new trans into the cleaning and clearing facility, who says patio tables don't make excellent transmission stands, LOL

man and I've always wondered what that round hole in the middle of that table was for while sippin' on my umbrella drink by the pool side!

[Rob C]

Go Go Go Gregski!!

[Gregski]

alright lets talk shifters, linkages, sticks and all things HURST as this is the brains of the entire operation

first let me just say that HURST was the Apple before APPLE existed (yes I am talking about the makes of the white phones)

if you think about it HURST created a need, well actually a want, I mean were people really tripping over themselves for external complicated linkages to change their gears, I mean they leave the shifter exposed to the elements under the gosh darn car, dirt, grime, water, snow, rain, it all gets up in there, why not just put the stick in the transmission where it is nicely covered up, but I degress

so the GM HURST shifter, which Lesson Number 1 is no HURST shifter at all, well it kinda is, let me explain

GM bought the shifter mechanism from HURST the bottom / the base part but being a Car Company [pronounced] "Cheap" thats all they bought, they did NOT buy the HURST stick, that's right they made their own Generic sticks and shoved them in there, so when you pull up those three pages of HURST shifters on the InterWebs you will not see our shifter on there, sure you'll see a couple that may look like it but it aint ours, that's all I am sayin'

on to Lesson # 2 make sure you get the linkage with the transmission when you buy it, when in doubt read Lesson Number 2 again. This again is not HURST linkage so don't bother looking for these sticks or fingers what ever you want to call them on the HURST's website you aint gonna find them, and if you is missing one like the Greg was you will have to argue with a know it all eBayer that what he has is not for a 4x4 only truck and that indeed it will work on a 2WD so please just sell it to me already, ha ha

yes I had to pay $100 bucks for a set of three fingers of which I really only needed one, but hey I had to get the right proprietery GM ones, know what I'm sayin' because that's how I roll

[Gregski]

here's what the GM finger brackets tabbies say on them, notice the 3 & OD one that is money, the Mopar ones say 3 & 4

[Gregski]

now some may say dude it don't matter, but if you look at those pesky brackets they have notches cut out in them so they go no the bolt a certain way, and let me tell you, you young whipper snappers those pesky notches have different angles so I don't think you can just snag a set of the Mopar A833 brackets and just bolt them up, plus one be upside down to make the Overdrive magic happen, but again we won't get into that here, that's what my other thread was for

I'm just going to PAUSE here for a moment and ask you this: Do you appreciate the great detail The Greg shares with you hear? Do you? LOL

[Gregski]

which brings us to Lesson Numero Tres in the self help guide to the GM HURST sticks

actually here is something I want to share that I learned about the HURST shifters, there are two different kind, well in terms of mating the stick to the shifter mechanism, 90% of them are the Bolt On type, you know you have the stick, it has two holes on the bottom, you use two bolts to bolt it up to the shifter box thingie and Bob's your uncle... well then there's the other kind, the Slip In type. Say what? This is the type where there is no bolts holding the stick to the shifter mechanism, instead the stick only has one hole at the bottom and you are supposed to use two rubber pieces and two metal clips like the ones below to lock it into place

why that's crazy talk Greg!?

[Gregski]

so can you guess which type GM decided to use on our trucks?

that's right the rarererer Slip-In kind, and to show how confident they were in that ideaology they decided to weld the darn thing to the receiver, that's right GM welded their proprietery "generic" sticks to the base of the shifter mechanism, I suspect cause they were falling out, I suspect because GM forgot to drill a hole in the base of their sticks to allow the metal clips to clip them in and lock them in place like HURST intended, but I may be totally wrong - which I'm not, JK

People's Exhibit A, an excavated GM stick from said Slip In receiver, notice the lack of a hole in the base

[Gregski]

alright having liberated the headless "generic" stick from the HURST receiver (and by headless I mean it aint got a ball on it cause it aint got threads on it) now we could go a shopping for the real deal and so we did

ta da, we got ourselves a real deal Hurst shifter part number 4331

will it work? will it clear the dash? the bench seat?

who cares man, its a real HURST stick, ha ha

[Gregski]

Do you know what I like most about HURST shifters?

• how gosh darn modular they are, everything is it's own part, there are a million pieces there to join together

Do you know what I like the least about HURST shifters?

• how gosh darn modular they are, everything is it's own part, there are a million pieces there to join together

[Gregski]

which brings us to today, now I could just drill the two holes in my stick bottom to bolt up the new shifter but in order to do things right so that the Greg can sleep at night I need to order the proper bottom piece for the Bolt On stick fortunately it's only $15 bucks but wait its a HURST component or one of a million parts that you'll need so we also need the Hurst 1950053 Manual Shifter Stiffener Mounting Plate w Bolts

HURST Straight Stick Bottom for Bolt On Shifter Handle Part #s H0008, 2390008

[enaberif]

FYI.. Early NP203 transfer cases used a Hurst labelled shifter like in your pics.

[Gregski]

one of the things that be different about the 833 trans and the SM465 is the Backup Switch the 833 uses a more modern looking type, like so

[Gregski]

which in turn requires a new pig tail connector for which my local parts houses want [wait for it] .... $25 BUCKS!!! [pronounced] Highway Robbery - technological progress be damned

man I am gonna git one from the junk yard this week, we'll see how much they want for a used one, ha ha

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

which in turn requires a new pig tail connector for which my local parts houses want [wait for it] .... $25 BUCKS!!! [pronounced] Highway Robbery - technological progress be damned

man I am gonna git one from the junk yard this week, we'll see how much they want for a used one, ha ha

Good lord. That's $2.15 in parts and shipping is $5-$8. Less than half that pigtail and you can use SXL wire rather than the GP series wire they used.
Mouser Electronics sells Weatherpack terminals and shells.
12015792 two position tower shell $1.33 x 1
12089188 Terminals $0.31 x 2
15324982 Green seals $0.10 x 2
You can get kits on Amazon for $7.99 with Prime shipping.www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DVM7RG
A $30 crimp tool will do the job if you aren't doing a bunch of them. http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard-Weatherpack-C... If you're playing with antique GM vehicles you'll do more.
The Delphi Ratchet Crimping Tool 12085270 is a very nice tool that will handle Weatherpack, Packard 56 & 59, along with Metripack 150-280 connectors. It's also $90

[y5mgisi]

Gresgski, I hope you understand how much i appreciate this thread. Love your writing style, love the detail, love the fun facts, love the quarks etc. It is one of my favorite threads of all time. Thank you for all that you do to bring more to this thread!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

Gresgski, I hope you understand how much i appreciate this thread. Love your writing style, love the detail, love the fun facts, love the quarks etc. It is one of my favorite threads of all time. Thank you for all that you do to bring more to this thread!

Wow, thank you so much, I really appreciate it.