Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

the entire core support was covered in rust, I had no idea it was going to be this bad

Fun Level = -2.8

[Gregski]

I was bored (and $164 bucks short) so I decided to make my own tumbler

first I tried using my square sander figuring I hardly ever use it now that I have my orbital, an aluminum vice, a Folgers "decaf" plastic coffee can (empty preferably) a bolt or two, and the key to the entire operation a pot or aka dim switch from home depo for like $2 bucks plus 20 cents for the plastic case for it

so here is Tumbler Jr. 3000 ver. 1.0

before and after bolts after 1 hour of vibrating using Walnut "blasting" media

[Gregski]

well even after wiggling with that thing for 2 hours it was just nothing to write home about

[Gregski]

you could say the wheels in my head starter a turnin'

Tumbler Jr. 3000 ver. 2.0

[Gregski]

finally upgraded to Ol' Milwaukee 1/2 inch drill (man those guys make great drills but their beer stinks, ha ha) and got some actual "tumbler" media

so here are the results now after tumbling [ahem] spinning for an hour

Tumbler Jr. 3000 ver 3.0

[rich weyand]

You could just drop them in EvapoRust overnight, then wash them off.

It's a chelation catalyst, and turns Fe2O3 (rust) into Fe3O4 (magnetite). The orange crusty rust turns into a sooty black powder that wipes or washes off, without dissolving any metal.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

You could just drop them in EvapoRust overnight, then wash them off.

It's a chelation catalyst, and turns Fe2O3 (rust) into Fe3O4 (magnetite). The orange crusty rust turns into a sooty black powder that wipes or washes off, without dissolving any metal.

Thanks Rich but wouldn't my Phosphoric acid do the same thing? I've tried all the name brand solutions and they just charge 5 times for a diluted Phosphoric acid, and all the "green" products you know environment safe couldn't remove a bugger off my finger.

[rich weyand]

Phosphoric acid will also eat at the metal. EvapoRust won't. You can throw stuff in there for a week, no prob.

Oh, and it's a catalyst. It doesn't get used up by the process. Buy it once and just keep using the same stuff.

[Will206]

Once again, I agree with Rich. I used evapo rust when I started and it worked pretty well. It doesn't seem to do that great on stuff that's pitted really badly, but I guess if the pitting is real bad a part replacement is probably in order.

You can even use it on sheet metal by spraying it on and then letting it sit covered in plastic, using magnets to hold the plastic.

That said, there have been a couple times where I wished I had phosphoric acid to use. Like for example, I ordered new rubber bushings for my core support from energy suspension, but they don't come with the metal cups and giant formed washers, so I've got to use the old ones that were in such bad shape and had to grind some of the pitting smooth. Couldn't find replacements, soaking them probably would have saved me some time.

Right now I am looking for a less labor intensive way to clean up the factory aluminum accessory brackets that are dull, dirty and mildly oxidized.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Will206

Right now I am looking for a less labor intensive way to clean up the factory aluminum accessory brackets that are dull, dirty and mildly oxidized.

Tried Simichrome?

[Will206]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Tried Simichrome?

I haven't. It looks a lot like a product called Wenol that I used to use though. I bet they would shine up real nice, however there doesn't seem to be getting around that elbow grease I am trying to get out of.

[rich weyand]

Simichrome doesn't take a lot of effort, and you end up with a near-chrome shine. Used to use it on the Norton engine case.

Not mine, but that sidecover and those heads are aluminum, done with Simichrome.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Gregski

next the brand new Thermostat housing went on minus the thermostat (not recommended for engine break in)

Where did you hear that? Internal combustion engines like to run at around 185-210, new or used. Most damage is done at lower temps, such as moisture accumulating in crankcase.

Glad to see you got your head problem solved w/o spending mucho dinero. Can't believe how fast you got them off that junk yard engine. I guess it's faster when you can simply cut hoses and lines and not have to worry about saving all the fasteners.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Forum mates, one last issue and that's about all the problems I have encountered so far

My water pump is eating fan/pulley bolts like their going out of style, do you guys know if these newer water pumps come with METRIC threads or something?

I have seen them with 1/4"-28 and 1/4"-20 threads. GM went partially metric in the 80s, so who knows for sure. Closest thing to 1/4" is 6mm x 1.0.

My real GM water pump #88894341 (also AC Delco 251-544) has 1/4"-20 threads.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Glad to see you got your head problem solved w/o spending mucho dinero. Can't believe how fast you got them off that junk yard engine. I guess it's faster when you can simply cut hoses and lines and not have to worry about saving all the fasteners.

Nothing was cut, I am not one of those guys that comes through like a tornato, I purposely unplugged all the dreaded GM clips, etc. The bolts, well that's another story most ended up on the ground.

[Gregski]

used an old school trick on the radiator rubber pieces, I stuck them in boiling water, than spent some time with a nylon brush at the sink

I was even able to get one part number off of them for us 3966800, still trying to read the other one, I recon there are two types maybe tops and bottoms

conincidentaly there is someone selling four of these on eBay right now for $67 bucks, [pronounced] Highway Robbery, LOL

of course the ones that told me their part number seem in better shape, ha ha

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

You could just drop them in EvapoRust overnight, then wash them off.

Yeah, that stuff works great! Just be sure to degrease and de-dirt the parts first. I usually hit them with a wire brush too.

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Gregski

used an old school trick on the radiator rubber pieces, I stuck them in boiling water, than spent some time with a nylon brush at the sink

I was even able to get one part number off of them for us 3966800, still trying to read the other one, I recon there are two types maybe tops and bottoms

conincidentaly there is someone selling four of these on eBay right now for $67 bucks, [pronounced] Highway Robbery, LOL

of course the ones that told me their part number seem in better shape, ha ha

Tops are shorter than the bottoms. To make matters worse depending on the radiator you have there are two different kinds as well.

As with your rivnuts you found the larger and thicker radiators used different rubbers.

[Gregski]

so after literrally days of wire wheeling and soaking in phosphoric acid I finally got the top radiator support / core support down to bare metal, but even after that underneath I found some more rust so back in the acid bath it went

and after navigating around that white sticker I finally said forget it and wire wheeled it off

I share this story because this is a massive undertaking every square inch of this front core support is covered in rust, so much more work than I expected

[Gregski]

man I just had to see some results, something getting done, so I powered through and got the rest of the chrome bits painted black, also through in that UFO (aka the new bottom air cleaner) in there for good measure

so lets do a roll call on Chrome pieces (since I am amazed how many parts make up that front core support)

2 x headlight bezles (already painted)

2 x headlight rings

2 x grille moldings (upper and lower)

hope I didn't forget anything, as I am almost out of that Adhesion Promoter

[Gregski]

i took these pics before the clear coat went on as it was about to git dark, but you git the idear

[Gregski]

I'm lovin' that Matt finish, and we needz ta hit Pep Boyz again...

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Chaplain

Nice job sir...

Thank you, always the kind words. The Greg has to try to save money any where he can, gotta wife (ok Roommate as she calls her self the last 2 years) and two kids, one dog, well you git the idea

[Gregski]

Alright I was able to read the part number off of the other Radiator Retainer Pad as it is called by GM

Part Number 3966804

Also that first part number 3966800 has been supposedly superseded by part number 371189 carried by Summit for $9 bucks each

not to be confused with part number 6264100 meant for da Big Block Chebby

just trying to help folks, just trying to help

[SkinnyG]

Krikey, stop making it pretty and get that engine in there - I'm anxious to see the big hazer all the way down main street!

(seriously - don't stop; this is awesome)