Restoring Rusty

[400/400]

At my local auto parts store they sell the components of those connectors individually for far less than a pigtail. You just need the two pins, two weather seals and the plastic connector. You can also order the pieces online.

[400/400]

Here's what they look like disassembled. This is a three wire version.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 400/400

Here's what they look like disassembled. This is a three wire version.

Interesting and very cool, thank you for sharing, what's the name of the parts house up in "sunny" Minnesota?

[400/400]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Interesting and very cool, thank you for sharing, what's the name of the parts house up in "sunny" Minnesota?

No problem. It's a NAPA. Although it my be "sunny" up here it's still chilly. Yesterday morning was 16 degrees. Can't wait for it to start warming up.

[Gregski]

well chiverly timbers, I sure wished I paid more attention when I took off these enjin cross member support brackets as they come with two longer bolts and two shorter ones, anybody knows where which ones go, top or bottom type a thing - they looked the same to me as I removed them and tossed them on the garage floor carefully, LOL

not sure I knew the different sizes when I laid them our for this there anatomy photo

[Gregski]

yes honey I will do the dishes while you're gone, bye now, bye, you and the kids have a great time at your folks for dinner, mmm bye

[5 minutes later] queue Mission Impossible music

Lads tell me you aint excited about this?

I want you to look me in the eye and tell me this aint got rhythm and that there's not enuff floor space, so you just can't dance to it!!!

[Gregski]

Alright so plan for today, first we make a list of things we got to do in the garage:

TO DO

1. Re Clock The Alternator

perfect, got it, simple

[Gregski]

OK, here we go, nothing to it, but to do it

... but first check out how nice this enjin crossmember support bracket turned out...

wonder how it would look on the frame

... check it out, it looks great, but you can't just mount one and not the other, you're gonna hurt it's feelings

... there that's better

[Gregski]

now then, where were we... ooh shinny

~ WE ~ MUST ~ MOUNT ~

[Gregski]

man, you're so lucky, the bolts on your truck were in that good of a shape, they are like brand new, oh wait... never mind

... and as I sat there on the ground thinking how pathetic I am not to even have a workbench, I tried to think of some positives of the situation and the only one I could come up with was that at least nothing can ever fall off the floor, ha ha, get it

yes I am a wire wheelin' mad man, but I can't bring myself to putting on rusty clay filled / wrapped nuts and bolts on the newly painted bits, this aint ROADKILL!!!

[Gregski]

and so we had to do the other side, and by the way these motor mounts are identical as far as I can tell, it's not like there be a right and a left one, they both have a cut off corner on the bottom but its in the same place, fits kinda nice on the dirver side and silly on the passenger, the cut off corner should be towards the rear of the vehicle seems like, not in front

[Gregski]

hmmm I wonder how the matching engine brackets will look on the block...

alright, and the other side... nice, though I wonder how these turned out Champagne instead of Cast Iron, glad I chose the other brand of paint for my engine, I like the Cast Iron look more better

[Gregski]

um Dummy you used the wrong bolts on the motor mounts and engine brackets, I mean why take all those pictures if you aint gonna refer to them

Ah, you know what they say, never time to do it right, but always time to do it over!

Oh, and by the way was I supposed to use some Special Sauce on these, cause I just screwed them in dry? Pretty clairvoyant if you ask me, now that they'll have to come out anyways.

[enaberif]

Dude get yourself a cheap bench grinder and a wire wheel for it. I got a free 6" bench grinder and tossed a wire wheel on it.

Then I just use some vice grips to hold bolts and crap to clean it up.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

Dude get yourself a cheap bench grinder and a wire wheel for it. I got a free 6" bench grinder and tossed a wire wheel on it.

Then I just use some vice grips to hold bolts and crap to clean it up.

funny thing is I got one, but it sucks I don't think it RPMs high enuff, its one of them orange Harbor Freight ones

[Gregski]

Re clocking the alternator, if you YouTube this procedure you will see guys doing it a couple different ways, some remove the back, some remove the front, I removed the back cause I wanted to see the brushes and the guts, the unit looks pretty tired, it may be the last old accessory on the truck, me having replaced everything else

I used the red WD40 straw trick to hold the brushes in while I slipped the housing back on

I think I rekeyed it from 9:00 o'clock to 3'clock unless it's upside down

[Gregski]

not sure this re clocking is going to fly in my book as it moved the hole for the mounting bracket away from where the nice hefty spacer bracket needs to go, and I am not a fan of the new simple pipe spaces

[Gregski]

here's just the before and after shots for comparison, see how the plug was on the left which would have been crammed against my engine and now its on the right, nice and away from all the action

and now on the engine

[enaberif]

Is there any reason you are wanting to use a low mount alternator bracket for? There are high mounts which put the alternator up MUCH further and much much easier to work on.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

Is there any reason you are wanting to use a low mount alternator bracket for?

I want to be able to see my engine, not the accessories, lol, plus I think it looks silly and ugly way up there, just a personal preference, going with form over function on this one, lower center of gravity, ha ha

[hatzie]

The reason GM mounted them high is to get away from the exhaust.
You should probably put a metal heat shield between the alternator and the headers with some reflective heat shielding attached.
I'd put a metal heat shield with reflective heat shielding between the starter and the headers too. Make sure there's space between the starter and the shielding to allow some airflow...
Don't forget the torque brace between the starter tail and the block... The big Delco MT series and smaller Delco gear reduction PT series starters can break the mounting bolts, cast nose, and block pad just like they do on the diesels. Classic Industries sells em but... fabbing a brace should be fairly easy too.
Post #4 to the end of this thread... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=238063
More info in this thread specificaly braces for the 153 and 168 tooth flywheel 10MT starters. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=492532
How do you tell the difference between 153 tooth and 168 tooth starters? Look at the mounting bolts. 153 tooth are straight across 168 tooth are diagonal.

[rusty76]

Your doing a killer job. It's funny but I never had any heat soak problems between my starter and headers. Drove it with headers daily for years no trouble. As for the alternator I could see possibly some heat problems but I have no clue there.

[Gregski]

the core support rode shot gun from my buddy's barn as we raced home before the sun set after media blastin' all the hard to reach nooks and crannies

[Gregski]

the GM gods were not smiling on us tonight, it was one obstacle after another, I ran out of wire wheel, the wife interrupted to help her start the grill (the other kind) I said no, so they were having steak while I was having chicken nuggets...

[Gregski]

but I was determined to get this core support covered in primer tonight, so I put on my night vision goggles and primered by feel