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#326 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Purchased a 12" slim subwoofer.
I'll build a box on the backside of the side panel. Here are a couple of examples I am looking at.
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![]() Last edited by Spf79; 01-28-2024 at 04:59 AM. |
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#327 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Never enough time in the day.
I was able to set time aside to cut & buff my drivers door and get it bolted on. I'm still drinking with some gap issues. The door is to tight against the body at the jam. There doesn't seem to be any more forward adjustment. Seems odd. I also had to put three shims behind the striker plate on the jam... still catching the door latch funny. Doors are original to the Blazer. At least the passenger side is done.
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#328 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Md
Posts: 2,471
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
You probably have these specs....several posts from "lks dcvn" on Blazer tub, shims and alignment. I don't remember exactly what I did but I had the hard top on, which is supposed to help. Good luck. The devil is in the details.....The measurements are in hundredths, I think, just to add another level of confusion.
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=635605 |
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#329 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
I have seen one of them, but not the others. Very helpful. I'll do some measurements tonight. One small chip so far... sad face.
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#330 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Oshawa, On. Canada
Posts: 38
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
You may have to add shims in specific locations in your body mounts also, and definitely top bolted on, nice build eh.
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#331 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
I don't have a top, so I will have to do my best. ![]()
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#332 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
I started fresh tonight, I had no patience after work yesterday.
The door gaps look better. I need to mess with the body mount shims before the front clip goes on. My female dog ate one of my trim pieces... and I found a small velcro sanding block in my door. I think I can spend days screwing with the gaps, they aren't perfect, but I'm not sure if I can ever consider them "perfect"... the whole process is maddening.
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#333 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
More pics
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#334 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Yuba City, Ca
Posts: 1,945
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Your gaps look pretty good in my opinion. These trucks weren’t exactly perfect from the factory so gaps can be tough.
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Kirk 72 Blazer CST 4wd highlander |
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#335 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
I made some time this weekend and I am feeling pretty close on the side panels. Since I'm running a 12" sub I am making sure to secure the panels to the bed sides thoroughly.
I'm using 1/4-20 nut inserts, they are working well. I am working on making a cap for the bed rail, similar to the gray interior. I can put some 1/4-20 t-nuts in the wood that will allow me to bolt through the 5/16-18 inserts captured iunder the bed rail. This should give me a nice hidden fastener look. I have to use some fancy flush mount machine screws for the side panels. I am using truck cab dome lights for courtesy lights in the back. This stuff takes forever, the loop carpeting does not like metal shavings from drilling
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#336 |
Carpe manana
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Eau Claire, WI
Posts: 12,375
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Good progress.
Is there a learning curve to installing nutserts or is that pretty straightforward? I need to add these on the roof of my 99 Suburban to install a rack system. Worried I'll bugger it up.
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1972 K5 CST Highlander Blazer: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=708547 1972 K20 Cheyenne Super: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=528308 ![]() |
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#337 |
All stock and staying that way
![]() Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Elkland, PA
Posts: 1,456
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I installed a nutsert on my RH reproduction bedside on my 1970 Blazer to match the other side. The installation was a breeze. I had never done one before, but it looked exactly like the factory installed one on the drivers side. There are some Youtube videos going over the process/
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1970 K/5 Blazer CST 4WD, Bronze, 93k ACT. miles, 350, 4 speed, positraction, 16.5" x 8.25" wheel option, tilt, tach, vacuum, AM/FM, manual throttle...Dad ordered and purchased new 4/70. Currently frame off restoration in progress... ![]() 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 2WD, DK Blue/White, 90K ACT. miles, 402, TH400, 4.10 open, tilt, tach, vacuum, A/C, AM/FM, manual throttle.. A mostly original paint never rusted Texas survivor... ![]() 2017 Sierra 1500 SLT 4WD, Black, 41k miles, 5.3, 6L80E, 3.42 LS, 20" polished wheels, everything but moonroof and 6.2... 2019 Canyon SLT 4WD, White, 60k miles, 3.6, 8L45, 3.23 LS, 18" wheels |
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#338 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
No Learning curve at all, and after seeing your level of work, I am sure you will be perfect the first time. ![]() Get a nice step bit, and mark the step you want to stop at with a noticeable color. Stop one step below where you think you need to be, check fitment there. Once you get two or three in, you will be good to go. Maybe practice on a small piece of sheet metal if you are unsure. Once I watched a few videos I was brave enough to do it. ![]() I hope it works out easy for you.
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![]() Last edited by Spf79; 03-18-2024 at 12:04 PM. |
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#339 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Illinois
Posts: 161
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
I own two rivnut setting tools. The Y shaped one and the red drill setter tool. Both are great and easy. Also the best way to remove a failed rivnut or stripped one is a simple countersink bit. Important!!!!!! Do not use impact drivers on fasteners!!! Use hand tools. You will screw up a rivnut or two. Every time I am in a hurry and fail to follow this advice, I end up screwing up a rivnut or two. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/srzzPJFQGFI |
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#340 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
I am using the Y style.
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![]() Last edited by Spf79; 03-18-2024 at 12:07 PM. |
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#341 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
More pictures that I forgot to add onto my earlier update.
More wiring than I thought there would be in there, it was a fair amount of finesse to make it fit around the speaker. I added a small computer fan for the amps as well. I will run it on a switch. These amps are marine grade, and supposedly I can put them in an enclosed space. I added the fan for insurance. I shaped a piece of cedar to fill in the gap on the bed rail. Fingers crossed it all works.
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#342 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Getting closer.
Takes forever. Lol.
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#343 |
Carpe manana
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Eau Claire, WI
Posts: 12,375
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Thanks for the good words and the advice guys. You’ve emboldened me
![]() Done before summer?
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1972 K5 CST Highlander Blazer: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=708547 1972 K20 Cheyenne Super: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=528308 ![]() |
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#344 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Illinois
Posts: 161
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Hopefully you had a plan for this but you should make some sort of cover to go over those amps. My Blazer is not exactly a dry atmosphere and I know for certain that water will get in the area where the amps are mounted.
Second, hopefully you have not screwed the amp chassis into the factory metal. It is best to isolate the amp chassis from direct contact with the vehicle chassis. You can get noise in the signal and in one instance in 2006, I had damage to some JL Audio amps when stray voltage killed a couple amps slowly. Once I isolated the metal amp rack from the actual car metal, the replacement amps were fine and the noise in the audio was gone. I still own those amps today. In order to isolate the amp from the chassis you can mount a wooden board to the truck and mount the amps to the board. Easy peasey!! Last edited by NDM; 03-20-2024 at 11:14 AM. |
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#345 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
I appreciate the insight. I'm new to stereo installation. I will address this asap. Thank you!!
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#346 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Illinois
Posts: 161
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
I was a Pro in the Car audio industry for years and now I am a major hobbyist. I will help whenever I can.
Last edited by NDM; 03-21-2024 at 01:30 AM. |
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#347 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Quote:
I hope I am breaking everything in smoothly this summer... probably need to renew my triple A. Lol.
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#348 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Morgan County Utah
Posts: 682
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Looks awesome, I really like the sandal interior. I can't wait untill my finish list is that short.
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#349 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 423
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Thanks buddy, appreciate it!
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#350 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Morgan County Utah
Posts: 682
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Re: 1972 Build thread.
Just checking to see if you have wore the tires out yet. The paint is awesome, are you worried about the paint chipping at the rocker area when it's finished and your driving it.
7D2N
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