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#326 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,353
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Quote:
![]() And man it was really difficult getting my welding gun and my big fat head with helmet to see inside there to weld those dang nuts... When I finished up, I was thinking I should have just went to home depot for the right size hole saw and went that route instead lol. But I think this will be better in 4 years when I'm replacing my exhaust again because I think introducing carbon welds to that SS it might not last very long, at least that's what I am learning after all this work.... ![]() ![]()
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TA_C10 Stage 1 build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8333444 "It's only money". ![]() Last edited by TA_C10; 09-04-2019 at 01:04 PM. |
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#327 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,330
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
I did something similar for the rear mounted gas tank on my 66 project so I could drop the tank without needing a wrench up in there. For that I used square nuts, because there was more meat on each corner and less chance to warp it. I also found that putting a bolt in the nut while welding helped from warpage too.
I see that summit carries weld nuts, which I might use on this project. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...4aAgXgEALw_wcB |
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#328 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,964
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Quote:
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#329 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,330
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Good thinking, I didn't think of that.
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#330 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,353
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Update - Exhaust - H-Pipe
Beware, lot of pics in this post ![]() Then I needed to finish my saddle cuts into the adjoining pipes. I got everything set in place and just marked the holes to cut with marker. Then I used a couple different cutoff wheels to make the cuts. Worked out pretty decent. Then I finished welding all the saddle cuts and v-band ends to each section. The v-bands are a great idea I stole from @SCOTI, thanks man. My welds are getting better, but 2 things. First, pretty sure my voltage was too high and/or not enough wire speed as you can see some holes in center of welds. It will be fine, its exhaust. The second things however is I may have learned that I should have went with similar metals instead of the SS. Just because it was same price wasn't a good reason to grab it. Someone told me that introducing carbon welds to SS might not last very long. I ended up painting my welds with high temp primer and paint for exhaust. So we will find out soon enough. I hope it lasts... Pic heavy! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() This one I wanted to mention how nicely this went together. I put the opposite end together first. Then I welded the h-pipe side v-band clamp end on first. Then the last v-band end ended up being the piece that laid down and made sure everything ended up being perfectly flush. Worked out great. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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TA_C10 Stage 1 build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8333444 "It's only money". ![]() Last edited by TA_C10; 10-30-2019 at 08:32 PM. |
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#331 |
Senior Member
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Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 1,165
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Beautiful work man. What kind of wire and gas did you use?
I have stainless headers and mufflers and was planning to use stainless tubing with stainless wire and the same argon/CO2 mix gas that I use for mild steel welding.
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1964 Chevy C10 - Gen IV 5.3 Restomod http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=768632 1968 GMC C15 - Gen III 6.0 Restomod http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=772047 1969 Chevy C10 - Restoration http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=809184 1978 Chevy Scottsdale K20 1993 Chevy C1500 - 5.3/T56 swapped 2008 Silverado Duramax |
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#332 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,353
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
I used solid mig .025 steel wire. Not the best choice I know but those were my circumstances. What should be used is stainless wire 308, and should be using trimix gas much better looking weld ( helium, co, argon).
Edit:. And you should really weld a continuous bead rather than spot welding like I did. I'm still figuring this crap out... However I didn't allow any cool down time between spot welds, and I did circular patterns to make sure they overlapped the previous weld so they are joined together decent.
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TA_C10 Stage 1 build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8333444 "It's only money". ![]() |
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#333 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Azle,Texas
Posts: 2,248
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
I appreciate your willingness to do what I wanted to do but chickend out. I figured if I tried welding on stainless with steel wire and gas it wouldn't hold or some other unknown catastrophe.... Now I know. It looks good man!
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Brian 1972 C10, "Loyd", LWB to SWB, 5.3, L83/6L80e, 4:11 Tru Trac, Air Ride, VA, DD, 20" Coys, 4 wheel disc, A quick LS swap turned into a 6 year frame off resto-mod. |
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#334 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,964
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
To be clear, they way it was done it will corrode despite that it looks good now. TA_C10 painted his in those areas to help disguise the inevitable. Even w/stainless wire & Tri-gas.... it will corrode.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#335 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,353
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Quote:
![]() Use the information as you will, whether you go with SS pipe and welding rod, or all mild steel. I will report back in a few years after I start driving the truck with pics of how it turns out. .
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TA_C10 Stage 1 build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8333444 "It's only money". ![]() |
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#336 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,353
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Update - H-Pipe - Exhaust Wrap
Finished the H-Pipe and painted all the welds with high-temp primer and paint. I just used some VHT Flame Proof aluminum color from AZ rated at 2000 degrees. I've used it before on headers and it does pretty decent. I bought some DEI 2" exhaust wrap for my headers. It turned out ok. We shall see how long it lasts. I had a real problem cutting these straps to the proper length on the drivers side. Passenger side I finally figured it out a little better. This stuff came with a high temp silicone spray. I sprayed it on the passenger side. It's black color which really makes the black wrap look good but I doubt it lasts long. You can see in one of my pics the difference between the color with/without the silicone spray. ![]() ![]()
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TA_C10 Stage 1 build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8333444 "It's only money". ![]() Last edited by TA_C10; 10-30-2019 at 08:35 PM. |
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#337 |
Senior Member
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Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 1,165
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Well I think the system did turn out pretty. I agree that stainless will corrode too, but it will still last longer than aluminized. I put on a quick and dirty system on my 68 when I first bought it and I have bare steel welds and that exhaust has been sitting out in the elements for a few months now and still has not rusted, but I live in a dry climate. Exhaust systems don't last forever and you'll only see it when you're underneath it, so I don't worry too much about it. I'm not building a show truck, it's a toy that I will drive as much as I can.
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1964 Chevy C10 - Gen IV 5.3 Restomod http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=768632 1968 GMC C15 - Gen III 6.0 Restomod http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=772047 1969 Chevy C10 - Restoration http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=809184 1978 Chevy Scottsdale K20 1993 Chevy C1500 - 5.3/T56 swapped 2008 Silverado Duramax |
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#338 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,964
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Quote:
My set-up's were Tig'd & purged. The duallys is holding up better than I thought it would (>3yrs/6500 road miles on my dually). I would also encourage wrapping the pipes if they 'crowd' the pass compartment, bed wood, or gas tank. SS loves to retain heat.....
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#339 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,964
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Quote:
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#340 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,353
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Quote:
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TA_C10 Stage 1 build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8333444 "It's only money". ![]() |
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#341 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,353
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Update - CPP Hidden Trailer Hitch
Brown box came while I was out of town this week. Brought my new hidden trailer hitch. It seems to be a nice piece. My only issue was that it didn't fit the holes in my frame like it was telling me in the instructions. I ended up having to drill all 3 holes in side of frame. The big 5/8 bolts did however match up on the bottom of the frame. As a recap, I moved my cross member back a little to make my big 21 gallon burb tank fit but even doing that this piece fit pretty good. I ended up dropping the tank to install this piece so I painted the bottom half of the tank black just in case it hangs too low so it won't be noticeable from behind. ![]() ![]() Here you can see the holes don't line up. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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TA_C10 Stage 1 build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8333444 "It's only money". ![]() Last edited by TA_C10; 10-30-2019 at 08:44 PM. |
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#342 |
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,353
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
I also got another special delivery from the brown truck this week. A little something that should help bring this c10 into the 21st century technology
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TA_C10 Stage 1 build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8333444 "It's only money". ![]() Last edited by TA_C10; 10-30-2019 at 08:38 PM. |
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#343 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Azle,Texas
Posts: 2,248
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Tell me about your pool noodle driveshaft... I presume you have a dowel rod in it to keep it straight? I don't want to order my driveshaft until I have the cab and bed mounted so the angles are closer to ride height. What do you plan to do your driveshaft?
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Brian 1972 C10, "Loyd", LWB to SWB, 5.3, L83/6L80e, 4:11 Tru Trac, Air Ride, VA, DD, 20" Coys, 4 wheel disc, A quick LS swap turned into a 6 year frame off resto-mod. |
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#344 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,353
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Quote:
I've been thinking about what to do with driveshaft for months now. And I have decided for now I will keep my current 2 piece shaft and simply shorten the front section and have the it prepped with new u-joints. Rear shaft gets new u-joints as well. I'm keeping the existing carrier bearing as well. The reason I ended up here is money. This is my cheapest solution and it should be just fine for a while as a daily driver. So now let me tell you what I really want to do. ![]() Truck is a long bed, so I'm keeping two shafts. I want that rear slip shaft from Denny's plus their upgraded carrier bearing. It's billet aluminum with poly instead of rubber. Built for racing. Then I want to upgrade the front shaft to larger diameter to match the rear from Denny's. So it's a slip shaft in rear, slip shaft in front. Super strong and very flexible for suspension travel making a smooth ride and long lasting. If I got a single shaft I would want an upgrade in diameter which would really be a heavy shaft unless I went aluminum. Not to mention expensive. I think the 2 piece upgrade will end up costing pretty close to same so I will probably go that route in my stage 2 when I rebuild the LS and throw a bunch of speed parts at it.
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TA_C10 Stage 1 build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8333444 "It's only money". ![]() |
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#345 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Azle,Texas
Posts: 2,248
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Cool, thanks for the detailed answer. I shortened my longbed and still have the original 2 pc. shafts that are in excellent condition. I am under the impression that I have to go with a single pc. shaft, but I may be wrong. I've heard guys say a 2 pc. shaft would be the better choice, but I don't know if that is possible on a shorty. The extra length issue is easily solvable, but since I converted over to a 6L80E, the front yoke is different. I stopped by a local shop in Ft.Worth a while back and he said to get all the weight on the truck before I tackle the driveshaft, that makes sense. I bought a set of 2" aluminum lowering blocks and was planning on modifying them with some 60 grit on a belt sander, instead of using shims to get my pinion angle correct.
Any thoughts?
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Brian 1972 C10, "Loyd", LWB to SWB, 5.3, L83/6L80e, 4:11 Tru Trac, Air Ride, VA, DD, 20" Coys, 4 wheel disc, A quick LS swap turned into a 6 year frame off resto-mod. |
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#346 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,353
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Yeah man, for a short bed I think a single shaft is prob the way to go unless you have clearance problems just because it's easier to measure and deal with. But really if you keep the 2 piece I don't see why that would be a problem even with the 4l80. You just need to shorten the front piece and make sure they supply the correct end to support your 4l80 size u-joints. But if you're planning power, you will at the very least need to upgrade that carrier bearing. Then research the 12 bolt Chevy rear and how to beef it up at the pinion. Then the driveshaft diameter is next weakest link. I think that's right order.
Sanding down those blocks should work, but I just bought some on Amazon for pretty cheap so it's cash vs time on that idea IMO. ![]()
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TA_C10 Stage 1 build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8333444 "It's only money". ![]() |
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#347 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,353
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
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TA_C10 Stage 1 build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8333444 "It's only money". ![]() Last edited by TA_C10; 10-30-2019 at 08:48 PM. |
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#348 |
Almost Satisfied
![]() Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,932
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Exhaust turned out nice I think. Interested in the backup camera. I've grown so dependent on mine in my daily that I think I would like one in the 71.
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1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far." |
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#349 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,353
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Update - Exhaust is complete
![]() Finished the exhaust. I may end up extending the tail pipes later but for now its done. I purchased SS bar stock, cut to length, bent em up, leveled the mufflers and welded them on for hangars. I reused the rubber isolators that were used on part of the exhaust before as they were still in good shape. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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TA_C10 Stage 1 build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8333444 "It's only money". ![]() Last edited by TA_C10; 10-30-2019 at 08:54 PM. |
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#350 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 1,165
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1
Your pictures aren't showing again!
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1964 Chevy C10 - Gen IV 5.3 Restomod http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=768632 1968 GMC C15 - Gen III 6.0 Restomod http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=772047 1969 Chevy C10 - Restoration http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=809184 1978 Chevy Scottsdale K20 1993 Chevy C1500 - 5.3/T56 swapped 2008 Silverado Duramax |
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