67-72 Electric speedo

[BigRed76]

So I looked through the whole thread again and did not see it, but how do I change the odometer reading? I messed with it a little but it felt like I was going to break it.

[1965Impala]

PM sent to Eric on Wednesday.

[1965Impala]

I receive my face plate and stencil to today. Great work, as always, Eric!

[68c10airstream]

Eric is like allstate ins, you are in good hands

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by 1965Impala

I receive my face plate and stencil to today. Great work, as always, Eric!

Ok, cool, I sent it on Friday, so was pretty sure it should have been there today.

Originally Posted by 68c10airstream

Eric is like allstate ins, you are in good hands

Thanks Brian!

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by BigRed76

So I looked through the whole thread again and did not see it, but how do I change the odometer reading? I messed with it a little but it felt like I was going to break it.

I don't know exactly how to explain it, but you need to take it out and just play with it a bit. You need to be sure to line up the little tabs on the bottom when you put it back together though. I think as long as you don't get too aggressive with it, you won't break it.

[67Mal]

Is there anymore faceplate available? I am interested in purchasing one if possible.
Thank you for your work on this conversion.

[Beaumont@]

PM sent

[jks67ss396]

so, i took my cluster out (using the old choke hole as a subwoofer bass control) and i want to finally paint the correct numbers on the lens , wanted to make sure everything worked first...

But i also wanted to change out my crappy little too small sockets.

can you guys confirm that the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS. HP 4060 works in the socket holes

thanks all!

[68c10airstream]

I was the one to suggest the standard motor products socket. I chose those sockets because I couldn't find a source for the push in metal sockets and I wanted to wire in a "cruise light on" indicator that requires 2 wires, one 12+, and the ground supplied from the cruise module once it's engaged. These sockets are a somewhat flexible plastic and are 4 lug. You only use 2 lugs so I took an exacto knife and trimmed off 2 lugs. The sockets use 194 bulbs and I needed to make a harness for the back of the cluster anyway because of all of the changes, Voltmeter, 8000rpm tach, electric speedo, VSS input, cruise input,etc. I used green 194 style leds for dash lights and it looks great at night, only problem is the leds don't dim properly. They start to dim and then drop out, but for my aging eyes I love it!

[jks67ss396]

did you try these sockets in the standard instrument panel lighting socket holes?

i like your idea of the cruise light. i put a "check engine" light in one of those holes. i cruise would look good in the other!!

thanks

[68c10airstream]

Yes the socket worked in all the holes. As a suggestion, order just one and see how it works out for you!

[eagleuh1]

Ordered 12 from RockAuto. Like $1.60 each, $5 shipping. Got them today. Thanks 68C10AS.

[fast70swb]

The temples stil available for 25?

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by fast70swb

The temples stil available for 25?

Yes, PM sent

[engairuph]

Interested in template also

[Curtb1971]

Hey Eric,
Picked up a 97 S-10 cluster at the junk yard today and now I need your template kit. Do you still have any available? Also had a couple questions. Will the LS tach output run the factory tach and is the LS temp sensor the same resistance as the older chevy to run the temp gauge? Been reading your threads for a couple of years and your creativity has inspired many areas of my 71 lsx build. You the man dude
Thanks, Curt

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Curtb1971

Hey Eric,
Picked up a 97 S-10 cluster at the junk yard today and now I need your template kit. Do you still have any available? Also had a couple questions. Will the LS tach output run the factory tach and is the LS temp sensor the same resistance as the older chevy to run the temp gauge? Been reading your threads for a couple of years and your creativity has inspired many areas of my 71 lsx build. You the man dude
Thanks, Curt

Yes, they are still available, I will send you a PM with payment details.

As for the tach, they will work with the output from the PCM, but you will need to change the 'tach resolution' in the tune from 6 to 3. LS engines run on a 4 cylinder mode and changing the resolution will double it to an 8 cylinder.

The temp sender has been the topic of MANY threads, but what I usually do if keeping the stock gauge is to use the stock sender that was made for it. This requires drilling and tapping the head to accept the larger sender, but it's not all that hard to do and it's the best way to assure the gauge is going to be accurate.

[Curtb1971]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Yes, they are still available, I will send you a PM with payment details.

As for the tach, they will work with the output from the PCM, but you will need to change the 'tach resolution' in the tune from 6 to 3. LS engines run on a 4 cylinder mode and changing the resolution will double it to an 8 cylinder.

The temp sender has been the topic of MANY threads, but what I usually do if keeping the stock gauge is to use the stock sender that was made for it. This requires drilling and tapping the head to accept the larger sender, but it's not all that hard to do and it's the best way to assure the gauge is going to be accurate.

Cool, I had a feeling I was going to have to tap the head. I was thinking of putting a bung in the radiator, but that's not as fail safe as monitoring actual engine temp on the other side of the t-stat. Sent the payment lastnight and will post some pics when I get working on the cluster, hopefully sooner then later.
Thanks again,
Curt

[Curtb1971]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

So right now I have 5 sets ready to go, box and plate. I obviously cannot ship until next week due to the holiday and that little child birth event on tuesday. Please do not buy one if you do not already have the kit from LS1NOVA.

If you buy a kit from LS1NOVA I can make these for you. I can supply both pieces or just the plate. Just let me know what you need. Personally I dont see much need for the box as long as you have a windshield and/or you dont put your beer err I mean soda on the dash

First two are reserved for:
CJOHNSON
WGEYER
unless they pass

Note: I do not know or guarantee that this rear box will not interfere with an original tach. I did the best I could referencing pictures but without a tach on hand its a gamble.
I will design another version without the S10 odo reset and use LED light but this is it for now. I will be away from work for the next 5 weeks so I don't expect to have that anytime soon.

The plates will need some minor deburring (with a file) due to our turret press being an antique, cant wait for the new water jet to arrive also these plates may need to be clearanced slightly below the upper speedo mount hole and the right speedo mount hole (see arrows in pic). There are a few cosmetic issues I will fix later but nothing that causes any functional issues.

I attached a couple production pics just to show how these are made. The plates are easy I just shear a sheet to size and set up the machine and push a few buttons. The box on the other hand has to be formed on our press brake and then spotwelded together. A lot of time goes into that stinkin' box, arrrgh. The punched sheet of boxes is actually an old version if you happened to notice the difference.

So the deal... Technically I can do this "for personal use only" so I am not in the position to profit on this, rather just sharing with you guys what I was doing for myself anyway. Considering the cost of steel, countless hours in design development, 3d modeling design, CNC programming, machine set up, machine run time, "G job time" ( me off the clock making these)...So I will price this at $30 shipped to your door in the CONUS only. Or just the plate only for $10. The plates are .056" galvanized steel and the rear cover box is .032" galvanized steel. I can make them thicker or thinner, what ever works best. One condition, you must tell me your opinions, complaints, suggestions, and I will work with you guys to improve these. I get paid plenty and have no reason to capitalize off my fellow truck lovers.

Hey Dan,
By chance are these still available to purchase or fab up?

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Curtb1971

Hey Dan,
By chance are these still available to purchase or fab up?

Captainfab is making the mounting plate and rear cover boxes, he makes some really nice parts.

[Curtb1971]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Captainfab is making the mounting plate and rear cover boxes, he makes some really nice parts.

Awesome,
Captianfab is custom making me a hydro boost plate so I'll ask him if he can throw one of these on the order. Thanks for letting me know

[Captainfab]

Thanks ls1nova71

Here is the for sale thread for the plates and boxes as well as the template.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=630862

[68c10airstream]

Hi Curt, ls1nova is correct on drilling the head for the original sender. I was reluctant and my water pump has a nice flat boss on the forward area that worked great. As i've stated in prior posts that when i was done my temp gauge read about 3/4 scale as the LS runs hotter than my original 68 small block. Once it was installed and at 3/4 scale i cut the wire close to the sender, temporarily installed a variable resistor and dialed in some additional resistance and dialed the temp gauge back to 1/2 scale. Removed the resistor and read the value. It was 4 ohms, so i soldered in a 4 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor inline. All is good!

[Curtb1971]

Originally Posted by 68c10airstream

Hi Curt, ls1nova is correct on drilling the head for the original sender. I was reluctant and my water pump has a nice flat boss on the forward area that worked great. As i've stated in prior posts that when i was done my temp gauge read about 3/4 scale as the LS runs hotter than my original 68 small block. Once it was installed and at 3/4 scale i cut the wire close to the sender, temporarily installed a variable resistor and dialed in some additional resistance and dialed the temp gauge back to 1/2 scale. Removed the resistor and read the value. It was 4 ohms, so i soldered in a 4 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor inline. All is good!

Sure do appreciate the insight on the 4ohm resistor. I'm thinking of installing the temp sensor in the water pump as well as it would be easier to get the aluminum shavings out of the pump then the head. Thanks