LFD's low buck truck build!

[skchevota]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

No I am using the stock set up and since the axel is now on top of teh spring my plates will be on top and teh round bolts are squared off for spring fitment.

On a side note do you have any picks of your tank installed? Pics of mounts, filler neck and rear crossmember mods needed. This will help with the many ideas I have in my head right now.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Yea, that is what I was wandering, wont the u bolt plate on top cause clearance issues with the frame? and the bed floor? most of the flip kits I have installed have come with rounded ubolts to fit over the axle and then a flat U bolt plate for the bottom of the spring. But if it fits cool, thats the low buck part!! As for pics of my fuel tankI I dont have any, My truck is in Pieces righr now , I can say I removed the rear X member and the spair tire bar, and used my hitch as a new rear X member. The tank fit well and I never had any trouble. I welded two pieces of 1" tubing across the top of the frame from sid to side so the tank had some thing to sit agenced and then made straps out of 2" x 1/8 steel flat stock and bolted it front to back. One side was attached to the hitch and the other to the X member that sits be hind the Axle that is at a slight angle. I hope this helps. My new set up will be a bit different but I havent finished it yet.
Shawn

[skchevota]

We must have been typeing at the same time, after I posted I saw you post.On the hood of you truck is the U-Bolt setup I was refering to . Looks Like you have it covered, as always

[Rokcrln]

skchevota~ Its about time you show up Yes your tank set up is almost the same thing I have been planning for mine. Rear cross is comming out and the hidden hitch is going to hold it all together. I picked up some tank strap rubbers last week to be used with 2x1/8.
What did you do for your tank fill?

Well plans have changed for my axel to leaf mounts. I had a shop (Valley Spring in Dixon) bend up some U-bolts today and they also sheared and punched my lower plates. The U bolts are 9/16" and the plates are 1/2" (I can only punch and shear up to 3/8" at home ) The reason for this change is that I will be making mounts for the top of the axle for my air bags to mount to and the stock pads would be in the way. The stock pads do clear teh frame so it will save you $118 for bolts like I spent today. But if you use your stock set up please atleast get new bolts and nuts! They are not ment to be reused after this many years! Be safe not cheap!!!

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2133.42
77.5hrs

[Rokcrln]

Watching paint dry sucks but watching concrete dry is even worse. I had some patching to do today to get my shop all in shap for some up comming work. This place was built about 1915 and needed some help with the floor. I think when they poured the slab it was just a topper over alot of rock base. I had sections comming up that were only about 1- 1 1/2" thick

So while that was drying I rebuilt the front arms and here it is.
Start off by setting all your parts out along with any tools and grease that you will need. Then set the upper cross shaft in a vise. Their is not a direction you need to worrie with the uppers shafts but the lowers have a set direction you will need to follow. Slide on the grease cups with the cup end facing out. Grease up the shaft threads, cups and the end cap nuts (inside and out). Then take the A-arm and slide one side on first then the other side. Now start the end cap nuts and turn them about 3-4 times each. You want to do this even on each side so they end up just touching the A-arm with out treading into them yet. Once the nuts are almost touching each side of the arm with out threading in go ahead and start to thread one side in about 2 turns then start the other side (do not use air tools for this step). Once they are both started and even feels free go ahead and hit it with air if you want untill they are tight but the arms should still be movable. Now install the ball joints and dust caps then your zerk fittings. Just dont turn those zerks to tight

Now that the uppers are done move onto the bottom arms. I like to install the ball joints first because after installing the cross shafts they are double the weight to hold while pressing in the ball joints. Once the joint is seatted it is time for the cross shaft. NOTE the counter sunk hole will face the front of the truck and the shock mount faces the rear. Just follow the same steps as the upper arms for the rest of the cross shaft install. I will install these in the truck and then hit everything with the grease gun.

This only tok about 1hr 30min to complete all four
Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2133.42
79hrs

[Rokcrln]

More~

[Rokcrln]

And~

[Rokcrln]

It is on the ground And looks hot!!! I love the stance for a all around vehical, cruises, towing, HomeDepot runs and what not. I still have the brakes to do, driveline, exhaust, gas tank, front sway bar and alignment. Then when the shop opens up I will do a very quick body and paint job.

Today I installed the 2" ECE front springs (02-6372-2f $114.00) and their 2.5" drop spindles (911-7172 $229.00) then the rear is about 6"+- due to the flip kit. I installed new wheel bearing and all new steering parts as well. This truck should drive alot better than new in a few weeks.
Another $343.00 and 6hrs to the total

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2476.42
85hrs

[IvelDesigns]

great work man.

do you have a parts list with numbers for your front end components? or did you just use your local napa type store for them?

[Crank]

DAMN, I love this truck!!! But did I miss something? Where did the wheels and tires come from? All you gotta do now is whip that cab and clip into shape and throw some pigment at it... DAMN is it lookin BADASS THO!!!! Wish I had your talents
Brandon

[Rokcrln]

Thanks guys! I am very pleased with how it is turning out. The rims came from my side yard were my rottie has been pissin on them for years now The slotted rims did not want to fit back on over the new rotors their was a few .001 off. I have a set of stock truck rims comming from a board member when he gets a chance. They are 7's for the front and 8's for the rear.
The ones on the truck now are 15x8's rust with a touch of chrome 255/60/15's front and 275/60/15's rear.

No I do not have a parts list for the steering and suspention rebuild parts. I bought a kit about 7yrs ago for my other truck (slow build) from one of the magazine places that specialize in suspention rebuilds but I can not think of the name right now. It was about $500 for the kit but it only came with A-arm bushings not the new shaft kit like I installed in this one. I think the best place for a complete quality kit would be from ECE. I called them on a price for the A-arm cross shafts and their price was way better then what I paid but I needed them on friday so it cost me a few extra $.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[72CSTC5]

Looking good but the front bumper still has me doing double takes. Change it already!!! LOL!! Tightwad.

[kevncar]

I went out in my garage the other night, busted out the little butane torch and toasted all the black widows of my frame and thought I got a lot done. It makes me sick how much you get done. Keep up the awesome work.

[GREASEMONKEY72]

great work as always, cant wait to see the next update of results

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by 72CSTC5

Looking good but the front bumper still has me doing double takes. Change it already!!! LOL!! Tightwad.

What ever are you talking about Those are my driving light holes!

Originally Posted by kevncar

I went out in my garage the other night, busted out the little butane torch and toasted all the black widows of my frame and thought I got a lot done. It makes me sick how much you get done. Keep up the awesome work.

Their in it self is your problem, I get the black widows to help with the builds!

Well next will I will get brakes put on , finish the rear flip kit, mount the bags and install the gas tank and plum it in. Then I think I will be out of money on it for now. I only have $12.35 left

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[VDOG]

Nevermind about the PM Rockcrln, I see the tire info now.

[Rokcrln]

Well I was a slacker today. Started at 6am headed down to Lowes for some wall mount lights for the shop. Then off to church at 10 and out to the shop at 12 to install the lights and misc. Then about 2pm I started on the truck and here is what I got done (or started )

First project was installing the ECE hidden hitch. I must say their are not very many items that I can make my self but instead I will go out and buy, but this is one of them and worth every penny! To start I clamped it in place with the end up against the lic plate holder. I had to grind off two rivits from the rear cross member for it to sit flat but this cross member wil get addessed later. Then transfer punch the mounting holes and trace the reciever tube end to the plate holder before removing the hitch to drill holes. Mark and cut the hole in the plate holder, mount the plate flip that came in the kit. Drill the mounting holes and bolt it all back up. Done deal. I just followed the directions that were provided in the very complete kit and it all worked out great. The only thing I will add to the hitch is a rattle nut. The reciever fits a bit loose and will rattle alot so I will add a nut and bolt(not done yet) to tighten things up for towing.


Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

The rest of the ECE Hitch~

[Rokcrln]

Then I went for the C-notch! It is just a basic notch that I have done several times before and their are a few How-to's already in the how-to list by Krue. I just made the notch 2 1/4" deep and that gave me 4.5" of axel bump room before the diff hits the bed floor. I will add bump stops to the inside to keep the diff from hitting but not by much I also plan on adding some more bracing to the frame in the notch area becasue this truck will be used for towing alot!


Kevin
LFD Inc.

[manimal]

I LOVE THIS!! AWESOME JOB!
-Lance

[Rokcrln]

Then

[Rokcrln]

Then I went for the rear mounted tank. It is out of a 84 full size blazer and holds 25gals! Did I mention it was only $100 I don't know how much the 69-72 tanks cost but I know they don't hold as much and they hang down more then this one does. This tank set up is my favorite mod so far. It is as big as you can fit and keep it inside the frame. I had to remove the rear frame cross member in order for it to fit but I will be adding two cross members back in to make things stronger than they were before. Also the hidden hitch adds alot of strenght to the rear of the frame. Also I will need to do a bit of notching to the bed floor brace (the second one from the rear) and I will show what I do to keep it all stronge. I could have left the brace intacked but then the tank would be about 2" lower then what you see now. It will have two straps that hold it in place as well as a front and rear top mount that it will push up against.

This tank idea came from a fellow board member skchevota. Thanks again for the make and model.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

More tank!

[GREASEMONKEY72]

love the hidden hitch, nice work on the notch to, and tank looks good to

[Rokcrln]

Last pic is of the new U-bolt assembly. I still need to figure out how I want to mount the bags

This went really well today only spending about 5hrs time to the total and $100 for the tank, $120 for the U-bolts and $209 (PN#906-6772BH PU)


Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2905.42
90hrs

[timcos]

GR8 job Kevin. Love that big gas tank...84 blazer HUH?

I am starting to build my bed lift from your plans in welding class tomorrow.