Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4

[83GMCK2500]

Could you not bolt your rotor to the backside of the hub as is done in the original setup?

Somewhere along the lines I think spacers have gotten a bad rep from people using aluminum or home brew or something otherwise equally scary. I've got steel spacers on the rear of my '96 (between the duals) that fit hub centric to the hub and provide a hub centric ring for my wheel to seat against. It couldn't be anymore factory-esque. No issues. I rotate tires-wheels regularly and I've yet to find a loose nut or a see any cracking or deformation anywhere. Plus, as you've pointed out, the factory uses a forged set up front on later trucks.

[Wide Open]

Picture taken through the wheel so it isn't the greatest but I don't have time to pop the wheel off today.

[NastyBuzzard]

One thing I see is that the "front" of the hub pictured, where the bolts go through isn't a machined flat surface so isn't a good surface for the rotor to sit against. Plus like I said, I don't think the hole in the rotor, which is about 5" will clear over the surface to mount the wheel.

However, there may be ways to find a larger/better brake system to fit behind the hub or you could swap to SRW hubs and use spacers but I wouldn't buy cheap ones.

[Wide Open]

How do I get pictures to be embedded instead of stupid attachments?
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[NastyBuzzard]

I use photobucket. It is a website/app where you load in your pictures, then you select the pictures and it supplies an image link to copy/paste inside your text.

[Wide Open]

Yeah I'm familiar with Photobucket just don't really like it.
For whatever reason my picture is showing up now instead of just the attachment.

[Wide Open]

I think the rotor definitely has to go behind the hub, extension or whatever it's called like original.
The question is will the bracket for the caliper line up that way
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[NastyBuzzard]

Yes, it appears those bolts attach the rotor to the hub as far as I can tell by google searching an image of the dana 60 DRW front axle.

In its current form the bracket would put the caliper too far forward for the rotor, however, that offset is capable of being changed. If I had a drw axle I would model it up but unfortunately, I don't. Still though, It is possible it could be made to work as long as there is room on the knuckle to move the mounting point of the caliper back. However, the bracket is already really close as is, so IDK for sure.

[83GMCK2500]

Originally Posted by Wide Open

So what do those back bolts actually do? Just bolt the rotor on and the hub/extension is what holds the wheel on?
I've had several of the 96-99 trucks and I am familiar with those but now I have a new to me 86 that I'm just learning about.

Yes, that is correct.

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

Yes, it appears those bolts attach the rotor to the hub as far as I can tell by google searching an image of the dana 60 DRW front axle.

In its current form the bracket would put the caliper too far forward for the rotor, however, that offset is capable of being changed. If I had a drw axle I would model it up but unfortunately, I don't. Still though, It is possible it could be made to work as long as there is room on the knuckle to move the mounting point of the caliper back. However, the bracket is already really close as is, so IDK for sure.

Does your dual piston caliper sit in the same location as the factory single? Better to ask, is the center of the disc portion in the same location as the original? It may be possible to find a rotor with the correct depth hat and of the larger diameter you're using to keep your caliper bracket as-is. I'm not following what you mean by the caliper too far forward for the rotor?

[NastyBuzzard]

I believe that it is farther forward than stock location but I will have to check for you.

[Wide Open]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

I believe that it is farther forward than stock location but I will have to check for you.

By forward do you mean closer or farther from the knuckle?
Posted via Mobile Device

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Wide Open

By forward do you mean closer or farther from the knuckle?
Posted via Mobile Device

I meant further away from the knuckle. However, I placed the original caliper bracket up next to the new one and they seem to be very close to the same spot! So that is some good news!

Other good news is the dually rotor worked! I can have slip on rear disc brakes!! Don't mind the location of the caliper, I didn't have it all completely together. Test fit.

[Wide Open]

Nasty - The front rotor you are using is from a SRW or DRW Dodge?

I'm pretty sure from your pictures the hat is too deep to use on my front axle

[NastyBuzzard]

SRW as far as I know.

Yes I can guarantee it is, you would have to find a rotor same OD as the dodge or similar but as deep as the stock one.

[Dieselwrencher]

I like the brake upgrades. On their site, they have no pic or description of the kit. Was it really $1253.95? If that's right, what all did it come with? Loaded calipers, mounting brackets, and rotors?

http://www.torqaxle.com/products/bra...-brake-kit.php

[NastyBuzzard]

What they list is that $1300 kit that I can only assume comes with the brackets, rotors, calipers, pretty much everything it would take. However, I called them and told them I already had all the brake parts and just needed the brackets. They just sold me the brackets for about $225 shipped. They agreed they should maybe start advertising them.

[jott_06]

I got on here to see if you figured out your rear rotors because I just watched them do a disc brake upgrade on Dirt Everyday and they put the rotor on the back side of the hub and pressed the studs through the rotor and hub. Looks like the dually rotor worked for you though

[NastyBuzzard]

Yes it did! You can do those other brakes cheap but they suck. Most don't have parking brake but if you use certain calipers you can have parking brake that you manually have to adjust and it sucks. What I'm doing should be worlds better.

[y5mgisi]

Glad the dually rotor worked out!

[NastyBuzzard]

I got one hub drilled and new studs installed!



I also got the PS kingpin out. It was not as easy as the DS. I had to beat my tool with a mini sledge both hands full force a few times before it budged the tiniest bit! But once it did move the fight was over! This one is scarred a bit more than the DS as well.



I mounted the rim on the rear to see if the original studs would be adequate. (I was told they would be.) They aren't, I wonder if I will need to drill them out and use the same studs I did for the front or if a longer stud exists for the 14BFF already that doesn't require drilling.



I also saw this truck on facebook. I had heavily considered these wheels for my truck but was unsure. Well, they don't look half bad on a square!! Requires 8x6.5 to 8x170 2" adapter/spacer but still.



I started putting the new Ujoints in my half shafts. What a pain in the ass. Also started cleaning up my knuckles. I need to get all seals/bearings and what not on order.

[83GMCK2500]

Looks like some good progress. What size is the allen to remove those kingpins?

Some of the 2011+ wheels are being made in the classic 8x6.5 pattern in the aftermarket. I've seen them on another forum but never got the name of the company, I think the guy said he found them on ebay.

Do you have a picture of your rear hub & studs handy? I might be able to poke around the parts catalog and see if a longer factory stud exists.

[NastyBuzzard]

7/8 allen wrench for the kingpin. The one I bought was $35 shipped from MCmaster carr but it really did make it pretty easy to remove the king pins.

Here is the pic, those are the stock rear studs. Normally they have to go through the drum then the hub now they go through the hub then the rotor so that has to be considered with knurl and what not.. I need about 1/2" or so more of threads at the least.

[83GMCK2500]

Still have 9/16" studs, right?

Eyeballing your tape your's look to be ~3" long. That is stud: 3988358 (GM P/N)

There exists, stud: STUD, RR WHL (SERRATED) (9/16-18X3.59 LGTH); P/N: 355815 Dually application, and they sound like the length you're looking for. There is a guy on ebay selling 4 packs for $4.55, looks like cheapest option.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Still have 9/16" studs, right?

Eyeballing your tape your's look to be ~3" long. That is stud: 3988358 (GM P/N)

There exists, stud: STUD, RR WHL (SERRATED) (9/16-18X3.59 LGTH); P/N: 355815 Dually application, and they sound like the length you're looking for. There is a guy on ebay selling 4 packs for $4.55, looks like cheapest option.

Yes still 9/16, I would never step down a size and 5/8 seems way too big. I thought about going metric but I really like the 9/16 thread.

I will look into it for sure! That's nice and cheap compared to the ones I run up front now.

[NastyBuzzard]

I got the new UJoints in the front shafts. It took me way too long even with using a press.



I picked up some DRW studs bc I needed longer studs for the rear. Man they would be perfect to use up front on the 60 if they were threaded all the way... I was hoping they could work as to not have to drill out the dana 60 hubs but looks like no other real option besides the 610-303 studs. Oh well it was a thought!



Also, I have spent a lot of mula on the front end, all new bearings, seals, ujoints so I wanted to pop the cover and make sure I didn't have pitted gears or the teeth be thinned out or anything. Looks good to me though!



So what studs or whatever I need to get for the king pin stuff? I have heard a few recommendations to swap over to studs. I am not a D60 expert.