How about some pics of '73-'91 Crew Cab Short beds?

[West Texas Z]

they have huge turn outs. Your going to miss out.

[joe231]

I know, right....
we will see....

[Jonboy]

I have a few questions about this swap. Are you guys running two piece driveshafts? What about the rear brake lines? Are they just cut and reflared? I am really having truck withdrawals, and find myself looking at crew cabs. I would really like somethng with a backseat, just wondering how much else will be involved. I already have access to a shortbed, and might buy a Sub to scavenge the 1/2 ton running gear out of.........

[b454rat]

If I get a regular tranny/t-case setup I might run the 2 piece shaft. For brake lines, you might be able to take a section out and get another one 14" shorter, not sure how long the pieces come. I'm probly gonna run one piece all the way out back.....

[joe231]

Jon,
There is a joint in the rear brake line that you can take apart and buy a straight and bend it your self or shorten the old line and re-flare it (I'm not sure if a short bed regular cab line will work or not). The drive shafts are still super long on these, if it's a 2wd. Too long IMO to run a one piece. Don't forget you will have to shorten the exhaust and e-brake cables also. I still haven't got my e-brake figured out, it's kinda low on the priority list right now
I say go for it!
I want another one, in a 4x4

[bodydropped68]

Originally Posted by joe231

Jon,
There is a joint in the rear brake line that you can take apart and buy a straight and bend it your self or shorten the old line and re-flare it (I'm not sure if a short bed regular cab line will work or not). The drive shafts are still super long on these, if it's a 2wd. Too long IMO to run a one piece. Don't forget you will have to shorten the exhaust and e-brake cables also. I still haven't got my e-brake figured out, it's kinda low on the priority list right now
I say go for it!
I want another one, in a 4x4

Hey Joe there is a nice looking Crew Cab 4X4 for sale here in Tucson looks pretty stock I can check on it if you would like me too? I also saw a nice one on CL in phoenix already a short bed lifted and black I'll see if I can find it again and post a pic. Later Paul

[BGRAFX]

Joe when you find or build a 4x4 let me have/buy your 2wd ccsb.

[joe231]

I want both!

[BGRAFX]

Momma aint gonna allow it.

[joe231]

[joe231]

Ttt

[kevinr1970]

Today was supposed to be a good day, finally got my bed on.
But I noticed something wrong.

I guess the foolproof method of using a 1/2ton rear section grafted on to the crew front isn't so "foolproof"?

[Devillusion]

ouch....




So I have to ask as I have wondered this from the start. Why don't you guys just swap out the rear differential instead of chopping the frame from a half ton? Just shorten the bigger/better frame? I must be missing something?

[joe231]

Originally Posted by kevinr1970

Today was supposed to be a good day, finally got my bed on.
But I noticed something wrong.

I guess the foolproof method of using a 1/2ton rear section grafted on to the crew front isn't so "foolproof"?

any progress on the solution?

[kevinr1970]

Originally Posted by joe231

any progress on the solution?

I have been pretty busy coaching (HS girls soccer), then spent 2 weeks in Moab, UT and Lake Powell, AZ.
After all that sun, I have been pretty unmotivated to go work out in the rain...

I thought we had a solution; looking at the LMC catalog, they list different rear cab mount "cushions" for 3/4 ton and 4x4 vs. 1/2 ton.
It made sence that that was the problem and the guy that did the work said that he runs into a similar problem on the 67-72 trucks (he is well known for his expertise on those trucks).
I measured the frame to the ground and the body to the ground (don't remember the exact measurements) and while the frame had a rake to the front, the body was level. This suggested that the cab was sitting lower on the frame towards the rear of cab than the front.
He said it was possible that he used the cross-member that was in the best shape without noticing that the cushions were different?
But after going back and looking at the catalog, the cushions being different only applies up to 1980?
They do list different cusions for 81-83 and 84-87, but the project truck and donor truck were both 87's.

The mechanic suggested putting some shims under the cushions and said that is a common thing to do on the 67-72's when swapping cabs.
I had the laser programmer at work make a quick program to cut some 3x3 plates with 5/8" holes in the center; (8) 1/4" thick and (8) 1/8" thick.
I ended up using half of each on the cab and having to use the other half on the bed to keep the body line even. I am still off a little bit so I had (8) more of each made (this time with slots instead of holes so I could just slip them over the bolts instead of having to remove them) but have not had a chance to go put them on yet.

While swapping doors, fenders and hood (before realizing I had the alignment problem with the bed) I was having no luck at all getting any of them to line up worth a damn. I am no body man so I just assumed that was something the body shop could correct when it ever goes in for paint. I bought a cowl hood and to get the front of the hood flush with the front edges of the fenders I had to slide the hood real far roward in the hinges leaving a masive gap at the back of the hood. I just assumed that this was due to it being an aftermarket hood.
I loosened up the bolts from the fenders to the cab before jacking it up to install the shims. When I was done for the day I noticed that the door to fender alignment was WAY better than before. Also, the hood now sticks out past the front edges of the fenders; when I loosen the hood to slide it back in the hinges the gap between the rear of he hood and the cowl should be halved. I assume all of this is because the cab has been tipped forward?
This would seem to tell me that he used the 1/2 ton X-member and that they are in fact different... except for all the shims I have to put under the bed also???
I think another 1/4" and maybe another 1/8" shim under both the bed and the cab should have it dialed. But then I have to add progressively smaller shims for the other three sets of bed bolts too, at least for the middle two sets.

Bottom line is I have a way to get it to look right, but I am not sure if it is the right way to make it right...

[joe231]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

Looks like it was just an excuse to take a picture of Mitch to me.

Originally Posted by scotts62

yeah he was posing in both.

Yeah

Originally Posted by kevinr1970

I have been pretty busy coaching (HS girls soccer), then spent 2 weeks in Moab, UT and Lake Powell, AZ.
After all that sun, I have been pretty unmotivated to go work out in the rain...

I thought we had a solution; looking at the LMC catalog, they list different rear cab mount "cushions" for 3/4 ton and 4x4 vs. 1/2 ton.
It made sence that that was the problem and the guy that did the work said that he runs into a similar problem on the 67-72 trucks (he is well known for his expertise on those trucks).
I measured the frame to the ground and the body to the ground (don't remember the exact measurements) and while the frame had a rake to the front, the body was level. This suggested that the cab was sitting lower on the frame towards the rear of cab than the front.
He said it was possible that he used the cross-member that was in the best shape without noticing that the cushions were different?
But after going back and looking at the catalog, the cushions being different only applies up to 1980?
They do list different cusions for 81-83 and 84-87, but the project truck and donor truck were both 87's.

The mechanic suggested putting some shims under the cushions and said that is a common thing to do on the 67-72's when swapping cabs.
I had the laser programmer at work make a quick program to cut some 3x3 plates with 5/8" holes in the center; (8) 1/4" thick and (8) 1/8" thick.
I ended up using half of each on the cab and having to use the other half on the bed to keep the body line even. I am still off a little bit so I had (8) more of each made (this time with slots instead of holes so I could just slip them over the bolts instead of having to remove them) but have not had a chance to go put them on yet.

While swapping doors, fenders and hood (before realizing I had the alignment problem with the bed) I was having no luck at all getting any of them to line up worth a damn. I am no body man so I just assumed that was something the body shop could correct when it ever goes in for paint. I bought a cowl hood and to get the front of the hood flush with the front edges of the fenders I had to slide the hood real far roward in the hinges leaving a masive gap at the back of the hood. I just assumed that this was due to it being an aftermarket hood.
I loosened up the bolts from the fenders to the cab before jacking it up to install the shims. When I was done for the day I noticed that the door to fender alignment was WAY better than before. Also, the hood now sticks out past the front edges of the fenders; when I loosen the hood to slide it back in the hinges the gap between the rear of he hood and the cowl should be halved. I assume all of this is because the cab has been tipped forward?
This would seem to tell me that he used the 1/2 ton X-member and that they are in fact different... except for all the shims I have to put under the bed also???
I think another 1/4" and maybe another 1/8" shim under both the bed and the cab should have it dialed. But then I have to add progressively smaller shims for the other three sets of bed bolts too, at least for the middle two sets.

Bottom line is I have a way to get it to look right, but I am not sure if it is the right way to make it right...

Glad you got something figured out.....
Guess it all comes down to "can you live with it"?
If the answer is Yes then go for it!
Posted via Mobile Device

[joe231]

Oh man
That does suck, is it welded already?
Posted via Mobile Device

[kevinr1970]

Originally Posted by Devillusion

So I have to ask as I have wondered this from the start. Why don't you guys just swap out the rear differential instead of chopping the frame from a half ton? Just shorten the bigger/better frame? I must be missing something?

It is not as simple as just swapping the rear-end, the spring perches are located differently.
You also have to shorten the bumper end of the frame which may only require drilling new holes to mount a bumper, or may be more involved than that.
Also, the holes for: mounting the bed, fuel tanks (I think), etc, are not in the proper place.

Using the existing half ton frame was supposed to be pretty straight forward.
Cut both frames, remove rivets holding cab-mounts, trim 1/2 ton frame ends, slide inside the crew frame, bolt both frames through cab mount holes, weld.
Simple, right?

Originally Posted by joe231

Oh man
That does suck, is it welded already?
Posted via Mobile Device

Yes, already welded.

I have yet to hear back from the guy that did the work, but the only thing I can think is that there was enough "slop" in the holes and that the frame was allowed to sag before it was welded?

Not sure what the solution is, but if everything lines up besides that (the gap between the bad and the cab is the same on both sides), I might be able to just section the bed over each mount to drop it enough to get it even.
Not sure just yet...

[Devillusion]

Originally Posted by kevinr1970

It is not as simple as just swapping the rear-end, the spring perches are located differently.
You also have to shorten the bumper end of the frame which may only require drilling new holes to mount a bumper, or may be more involved than that.
Also, the holes for: mounting the bed, fuel tanks (I think), etc, are not in the proper place.

I still don't see the big issue. Shorten the frame the 14", replace the perches on the half ton differential if needed (I don't think it is needed), and bolt into place, trim off rear of the frame.

Much better idea than trying to mate a 1/2 ton frame to a 1 ton frame in my opinion. But like I said, unless I am missing something other than what is described above. Much easier and cleaner in my books.

[GmtGmt]

i would say do it right not just make the bed fit make the from level

[Jvsapp]

Originally Posted by GmtGmt

i would say do it right not just make the bed fit make the from level

i agree with this. i'm thinking that something was allowed to sag just enough when it was apart and when it was welded up that 1/4" off will equal to that couple inches when the bed is on.

[joe231]

As far as using the heavier frame and just cutting it down, that's how mine is done and how I prefer to do it.

As far as sectioning the bed crossmember to make the gap right, I think that will throw your bodyline off. If you had it done the responsibility lies with the guy who welded it. He should have thrown a straight edge on it before welding, unless you did the swapping and told him it was ready to weld. I think you could do a cut in the frame almost all the way through from the top, then force the rear of the frame down by jacking under the cut to the correct level and weld it all back together
Posted via Mobile Device

[joe231]

TTT!
Posted via Mobile Device

[RandyP]

I got a machine in my shop that could bend the frame down and get it to line up I bet. Would that be the correct way to fix the issue? No. Might be simpler though.

[bodydropped68]

Here is one of mine