SkinnyG's '61 Apache

[SkinnyG]

Working on the door bottom. In fitting the driver's door, I discovered just how badly the aftermarket door bottom was shaped, and had to slice and re-shape the door bottom in place. Today I'm re-shaping it before welding it in.

[SkinnyG]

Comparing the replacement bottom with the old bottom, the new one is curved, it should be straight. The corners are junk.





The flange should sit flat on the table like the original, but it doesn't (dunno if you can see it - I put a light behind):





So I did a whole lot of slicing, and added about 1/4" of metal to get the flange flat again. Then sliced to fit it. A bit more fitting and it will be welded in.

[SkinnyG]

Tweaked a bit of the door bottom fit, and checked it with the door skin; I'm feeling confident enough to lay down some primer. Also coated the driver's door since the gun was out.





Also, tried this new sprayer for pre-paint cleaner, since my super cheap plastic one got a pre-paint cleaner enema of no return. Seems decent.

[SkinnyG]

Once the primer had cured, I TIG-welded the door bottom (I was skeptical of doing oxy-acetylene again). There was still warping, but it was still easier to planish than MIG welds. I -think- I get less warp with MIG, but I might be fooling myself - there might just be more finishing with MIG than TIG, but I'm trying different approaches to see which one I like better.



Then a good scuff on the inside of the door bottom as well as the skin, and two coats of epoxy primer.

[cwcarpenter98]

Nice! I got a chance to watch your video about the cab rust. I think I'll go with your recommendation to start from the outer rocker and go in to the floor. That sounds like an easier way to get everything to ~mostly~ line up since as you say, the panels are drunk

[SkinnyG]

I'd almost also recommend fixing your doors first, so you can gap the rockers to however the doors ended up. Now that I'm finishing the doors last.

I don't really want to do another truck just to test my theory, but it's how I would do it if I were to do it again.

[pdxhall]

That's some nice work on your doors. That is my last serious patching job that I need to do. I'm sorry to hear you had so much fit problems with the inner bottom patches. I'm ready to order patches and would like to know which vendor you bought them from.

[SkinnyG]

Pretty sure most of my parts have been a mix of Counterpart and Goodmark, but I don't know what the door parts were exactly.

If you're fussy, you're likely going to be dissatisfied with whatever brand you get. If you're not fussy, you won't notice how bad they fit and it won't matter.

I spell it CDO - that way the letters are in alphabetical order.

[cwcarpenter98]

All of my patch panels are Tri-Plus parts from Auto Metal Direct. I have fixed the driver's door and the patch seemed to fit well. Granted, that was one of the first few things I attempted, but I'm pretty happy with it. Only thing that I need to see about fine tuning is the front corner of the inner patch was bent too far in, so that corner got pulled in past the fender. I haven't got a chance to see about working it back out

[SkinnyG]

Skin welded and attached.

As you tack together, grind your tacks down before the next tack. This helps slow you down, so you minimize the heat put into the panel. A smart cookie would grind both sides down, and planish.

[SkinnyG]

Door hung, and adjusting gaps:

[caseyjones]

You are making great progress...keep it up!

[SkinnyG]

Epoxy primer for the doors tomorrow.

These trucks aren't even -symmetrically- drunk.

[cwcarpenter98]

Dadgum, those are some nice gaps now. Did you just build up some weld to the edges, or did you weld something else onto the door?

[88Stanger]

Nice work!

[Duncan K]

Great job on the gaps!!

[SkinnyG]

Some edges were merely built up with weld, others I welded some TIG rod onto the edge, and some I ground down the seam to the right shape, and then welded the split closed again.

[SkinnyG]

And primer. I do like the touch-up gun for minimal overspray, AND for spraying down the inside of the door.



Before placing the cab back on the frame, I cut the top off the "X" in the frame to clear the driveshaft. I haven't decided if I will use part of the original "bottom of X", or fabricate a new piece to cover it.

[SkinnyG]

I decided.



Sexy shot of the manufacturer's sticker:



I have to raise this section of the floor. I don't think I have to raise the boxed section under the rear cab wall:



I'll need to cut a hole through the frame for exhaust exit:



And I finalized the rear shock mounts. Modified and relocated stockers:

[SkinnyG]

Latest video:

'61 C10 Apache - Part 14: Rusty Doors! - YouTube

[SkinnyG]

Of course, with the raised "X," I need to clearance the floor. It -looks- like this will be an easy fix. I just need to cut the floor out. 5 hours in the shop, and I formed this new panel. It will be epoxy primered, and then spot welded into the floor. Spot welding significantly reduces the amount of warp I can introduce to the panel.

[SkinnyG]

I also knew earlier that running your thumbs through the French Wheel hurts. Today I found that running your pinkie under the Tipping Die hurts too.

[caseyjones]

Ouch. But you are making awesome progress. Thanks for the door video - I see new door bottoms in my future.

[SkinnyG]

Center cut out, and spot-weld holes are drilled:

[pdxhall]

You have some nice metal working skills and the door video will be helpful as this will be my final patching project.