ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is

[hewittca]

As always, I love your approach to coming up with solutions to make things work like they should. You are definitely right about a slow fuel fill being no fun! My solution to filling my rear mounted tank has been a bust. My issue is that my filler tube is basically horizontal as it goes straight over to the side marker light. Since I dropped my bedsides 4", I didn't have to turn up to get to the light like you did. I think that extra vertical section in yours is going to make the fuel drain into the tank like it's supposed to.

[clay68c10]

I sure hope you’re right. Did you run a vent also?
I’m running the 5/8 vent line up to the filler for pump shutoff. Hopefully that will work too. I will definitely post up what the results are.

[clay68c10]

Here’s my vent input to the filler. It’s not fancy, but it should do the trick.
It will get thread sealer upon final install.

[hewittca]

I do have a vent tube, but not like your setup. I think what you are doing is the correct way to do it. Mine just runs to a breather that is mounted higher than the filler. My tube is also smaller, I think 5/16" or thereabouts.

[clay68c10]

Originally Posted by hewittca

I do have a vent tube, but not like your setup. I think what you are doing is the correct way to do it. Mine just runs to a breather that is mounted higher than the filler. My tube is also smaller, I think 5/16" or thereabouts.

Fingers crossed

[loudchevy]

I like how you're routing the filler hose to right in front of the rear post.

[clay68c10]

Originally Posted by loudchevy

I like how you're routing the filler hose to right in front of the rear post.

Thanks, it seemed like the best unused bed area to occupy. I’ll have to make a cover box to hide it eventually.

[clay68c10]

I’ve been chipping away on the engine, but I’ve mainly been doing some house projects.
Here’s some pics.
Bearing clearances are all good.
Heads on and trunions upgraded, pushrods measured and installed.
Some nice old school orange on the cast iron.

[clay68c10]

In the background of the above, you can see the core support. Not a lot to show there, but I can say that the Autozone/Carquest replacement radiator fits 4-core saddles perfectly. As expected, the Explorer fans still fit great.
I measured for the condenser and have one on order from Cold Hose. I’ll update when it comes in.

[clay68c10]

Got some more done this past week.
The clutch is in, the slave cylinder is shimmed and installed
The engine and transmission are sitting in the frame.

[clay68c10]

The clutch setup was a combo of parts I learned about from the ls1 tech message board.
The flywheel is a NFW1050, for a early LS pickup
The clutch is a LUK 04-020, for a 70s BBC Corvette
The pilot bearing came with the bell housing. I bought it from Bowler
The throw out bearing/slave cyl is 910-25610 from Speedway.

Setup was fairly easy, one bolt comes out of the input retainer and a stud goes back in. It holds the slave from rotating.
The slave comes with .050 shims and the gap tolerance to the clutch fingers is .050-.100
I started with 3, it was too loose. Went with 5, and it was just barely putting pressure on the fingers. Went with 4 and got right at .050.
It was nice to do this on the floor. In the truck would have been not so fun.

[loudchevy]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

It was nice to do this on the floor. In the truck would have been not so fun.

Quoted for truth. That seems like it would be a 100 f-bombs trying to get the tolerances correct if you were trying to do it while it was installed on the truck.

Looking good!

[clay68c10]

Originally Posted by loudchevy

Quoted for truth. That seems like it would be a 100 f-bombs trying to get the tolerances correct if you were trying to do it while it was installed on the truck.

Looking good!

Thanks, it’s getting there.
Even doing it in the frame with no cab and front clip would be harder.

Originally Posted by hewittca

That is an interesting throwout bearing design. The one on mine has a flange that bolts to the transmission. I'm curious to hear how you like that LS/TKO combo. My NV3500 is mushy and makes all sorts of noises, so I know I'll be in the market for an upgrade eventually.

Those stock hydro bearings have better mounting provisions, but this style works for lots of hot rod applications so it should be good.
I’ll definitely update when I finally get to the point of driving it.

[hewittca]

That is an interesting throwout bearing design. The one on mine has a flange that bolts to the transmission. I'm curious to hear how you like that LS/TKO combo. My NV3500 is mushy and makes all sorts of noises, so I know I'll be in the market for an upgrade eventually.

[clay68c10]

Chipping away some more.
Exhaust is next. Time to learn something new.

[loudchevy]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

Chipping away some more.
Exhaust is next. Time to learn something new.

Learning new skills is the best part about this "hobby"

Keep it up

[clay68c10]

Here’s some shots of the a/c compressor location with these Holley frame stands. I’d guess the Speedway setup would be the same.
It’s tight, but not terrible.
The fittings are from Cold Hose.

[hewittca]

I like the whole frame shot. It's good to take a step back and admire the progress once in a while.

That A/C compressor position looks good to me! I like that setup. I may be adding A/C to my truck eventually and I think I would copy you 100% on this one

[cornerstone]

I'm diggin' your wheel and tire choice.

[clay68c10]

Originally Posted by loudchevy

Learning new skills is the best part about this "hobby"

Keep it up

Yes it can be.

Originally Posted by hewittca

I like the whole frame shot. It's good to take a step back and admire the progress once in a while.

That A/C compressor position looks good to me! I like that setup. I may be adding A/C to my truck eventually and I think I would copy you 100% on this one

I like that it makes use of the stock truck LS brackets. The aftermarket ones are too $$ for me.

Originally Posted by cornerstone

I'm diggin' your wheel and tire choice.

Thanks, it makes for a hot wheels vibe.

[clay68c10]

I’ve been chipping away at the exhaust over the past few weeks.
Of course there was a learning experience during my H pipe setup.
I mocked it up with a length of exhaust tube for the driveshaft. No, that’s not enough clearance for any amount of down travel.

[clay68c10]

Nothing says lesson learned like cutting apart your pieces and redoing them. At least my mock up beads were short. After this I just did fat tacks for fitment until I was sure of my clearances.
But now I have plenty of room. The rear of the DS can drop 4” before it contacts the crossmember and it shouldn’t ever touch the exhaust.

[clay68c10]

Speaking of driveshafts, I measured out what I would need and found 54-56” would probably work.
Conveniently, my Jeep buddy had a Police Interceptor Crown Vic he was parting out and the aluminum DS from it was a perfect fit. I just swapped on my yoke and put in a 1310-1330 conversion joint at the rear. Easy-peasy

[clay68c10]

After spring break in Arizona, I added my rear flanges to the H pipe section and took it out to weld up.
It did move around a little bit, but a ratchet strap took care of that. It had widened out about 3/4” at the header end.
You’ll notice that it isn’t laser straight, that is on purpose. I used the tolerance gaps in the joints to get the routing where I wanted it. I saved the bends for the back half.

[clay68c10]

On to the rear half. This part took me a couple of weekends to do. I tried several routings and placements for the mufflers. The best in/out I could come up with was high inlet and center outlet with the mufflers vertical. The outlet was really the deciding factor since the shocks and diff housing left a fairly small window.
On the trailing arm end, there's a couple of inches clearance. It should be plenty, I used a straight edge to mimic travel and it is good to well past the bump stops.
The spans across the bed mount towers were helpful also for cross sill clearance.